|
kurplunk
Jun 15, 2005, 12:03 AM
Post #51 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2005
Posts: 27
|
In reply to: If pull-up strength is so important in climbing
In reply to: What does that mean? |
|
|
|
|
rockmaniac
Jun 15, 2005, 12:57 AM
Post #52 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2003
Posts: 6
|
read "flash training" by horst. by mixing up different styles of pullups you can increase power, stamina, and if nothing else, confidence. it works for me. be sure u use full range of motion (all the way down).
|
|
|
|
|
disturbingthepeace
Jun 15, 2005, 1:58 AM
Post #53 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 57
|
Hmm, good chance to spray
age: 24
weight: 140 lb
height: 5' 6"
gender: male
hardest climb, sport: 12b
Hardest onsight sport: 11d
hardest climb, trad: 9
hardest climb, boulder: V4
years climbing: 2
ape index: +1 inch
max pull ups: 25-30
chalk style: chalk ball
hair color: blonde
eye color: blue
favorite shoe: Venoms
#of kids: 0
favorite color: Red
While I think having a lot of upper body strength is beneficial, in my opinion it all comes down to finger strength. You can’t pull your way up the wall if you can’t hang onto the holds.
|
|
|
|
|
tisakson
Jun 15, 2005, 2:13 AM
Post #54 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2005
Posts: 75
|
It depends on the climb, if the climb requires a big pullup type dynamic move then yes, pullups would be helpful. I can climb 5.11 c/d and can only do about 13 pullups, and most average guys in fair shape can do about the same I think.
|
|
|
|
|
spider_girl
Jun 22, 2005, 12:43 PM
Post #55 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 31
|
i have never managed a pull up! and i can climb V6-7's i have loads of leg strength from been a dancer and really little week arms. i use to try to do pull ups on the bar at the gym but after about a year of trying i just accepted that i will never manage it :cry:
|
|
|
|
|
spider_girl
Jun 22, 2005, 12:43 PM
Post #56 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 31
|
i have never managed a pull up! and i can climb V6-7's i have loads of leg strength from been a dancer and really little week arms. i use to try to do pull ups on the bar at the gym but after about a year of trying i just accepted that i will never manage it :cry:
|
|
|
|
|
dbrayack
Jun 22, 2005, 12:58 PM
Post #57 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 1260
|
I've squeaked my way through a good bit of 12s "sport", but never do pull ups. When I do do pull-ups, i can do anywhere between 10 and 12 "I do them now and then just for the heck of it too see how many I can do", but they're not cheater pull ups, they're full static, really really slow pull ups.
But then, I prefer face and slab climbing, so if I'm doing a pull-up on my style of climbing, I'm being an idiot.
-Danno
|
|
|
|
|
littlejames
Jun 22, 2005, 1:11 PM
Post #58 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2005
Posts: 54
|
I redpoint ~12 (Aussie 26, so not really sure of the conversion), and boulder ~V8. I can't do ten pullups.
That said, I can do one or two one-armers. Which is pretty much my climbing ability: too strong, no endurance.
|
|
|
|
|
dbrayack
Jun 22, 2005, 1:20 PM
Post #59 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 1260
|
Hey, if we're spraying woo woo! "I never spray, i must still be drunk from last night"
age: 23
weight: 158 lb
height: 5' 8.5"
gender: male
hardest climb, sport: 12c/d
Hardest onsight sport: 12a
hardest climb, trad: 10b crack
hardest climb, boulder: V6
years climbing: 9.5
ape index: +3 inch
max pull ups: 12
chalk style: Loose
hair color: Brown
eye color: blue
favorite shoe: Anasazies
#of kids: None that I know of
favorite color: Green
Hey ladies I'M SINGLE
-Danno
"btw, im being facetious"
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Jul 7, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #60 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
rc.com
|
|
|
|
|
rastafari
Jul 24, 2005, 10:45 AM
Post #61 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2005
Posts: 122
|
Hmmm, i dont do pull ups. The strenght usually comes from climbing itself.
Height: 6'
Weight: 125 lb
Age: 19
Ape index: + 4 inches
Max. pull ups: 20+ (dunno, never went to the max.)
Gender: male
Hardest sport route: 5.12c
Hardest Boulder: V9
Years climbing: 4
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jul 25, 2005, 7:28 PM
Post #62 of 62
(11276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
Strength to weight ratio is critical.
When I was in my 20s I could walk up and onsight-redpoint hard 11's "trad" this would be my stats:
age 26
weight 145
ht 5.7
#pullups 5 sets of 12, maybe 15 in a row.
Now, I can onsight easy 10.as, 5.9 "trad" easily for sure (excluding poorly protected off widths because my pants may get slick from peeing in them and the friction loss is difficult to compensate for)
________________________________________________
Now: fast forward to 2005
Age 51
weight 175 (oh oh!)
ht 5.6-5.7
# pullups 3, no sets, just 3, and all (three) while straining hard.
BTW, I can get up harder stuff in Yosemite as the leg strength is still there, and it's generally not as steep down there as the basalt around here.
The amount of time you climb, ie climbing more, can jump you 3-4 grades easy in a couple of weeks. I think it's due to 2 things: 1st) Mental state (more climbing will relax you as you learn what it takes to really peel off). 2nd) All of the muscles which do not get used on a pullup bar will get engaged and developed in regular climbing.
Pull ups are not bad, they will help, but are only one of the smaller factors in your ability to improve IMO
So, as others have already said: climbing more is good. Improving your strength to weight ratio is good too. Even if you are old and 30 lbs overweight! It's like climbing with a backpack:-) (He says as he stuffs his mouth with Subway Macadamia White Choc Chip cookies)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
