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bigsauce
Jul 28, 2002, 6:22 PM
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When hauling a rack up the rock, do you find yourself more in the Boy Scout "Be Prepared" categorie or do you think of yourself as more of an Evil Caneival type who likes to climb light? Just curious what everyone thinks...
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cathal
Jul 28, 2002, 6:39 PM
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I suppose i would fall into the dare devil categeory, but not by choice, I can't afford to get every piece of gear.
If i know the route well i would only take what i need.
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stevematthys
Jul 28, 2002, 7:36 PM
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i normally carry everything i think i will need. (which is normally more then necessary).
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sparky
Jul 28, 2002, 9:12 PM
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i don't have a very heavy rack so i usualyy take it all
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wildtrail
Jul 28, 2002, 9:39 PM
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Well, considering I'm a big pu--- (please pardon my language) ever since a big whipper, and my fear of falling and killing myself, I play it safe. I take chances now and again, but try to avoid it. Besides, I like to place gear as much as I like to climb. Always looking for that "bombproof" rig.
So...
Boy Scout all the way.
Hey, I have a wife that I love more than climbing and we haven't started a family yet. I'd like to be around for that, so I'll go with "be prepared".
Steve
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natec
Jul 28, 2002, 10:13 PM
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I usually take a bunch and then don't end up placing very much when I'm on form.
I haven't been able to go climbing as much lately so I'm more like a cub scout at this moment in time.
Maybe a weeblo.
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sagarmatha
Jul 28, 2002, 11:25 PM
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Boy scout all right. You know the quote "there are old climbers, there are bold climbers, there are no old bold climbers". Sorry, maybe I am old school, but the first thing I got taught by my first trad climbing partner was :no. 1 is safety, and safety is now ingrained in my climbing approach. But I guess is horses for courses, climbing is great also because of its freedom. Cheers
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ffaallliinngg
Jul 30, 2002, 2:03 AM
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Boy Scout on speed. Being a chicken, I would place gear every move if I could. Plus I seem to actually fall on my gear a lot. I specialize in the two foot whipper. Always take one of everything--I can't count the number of times I've looked at what looked like a finger crack and longed for a #4 camelot somewhere near the top.
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elvelasco
Aug 5, 2002, 5:12 PM
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I'd have to say that it's not an either-or situation. Rather, it's a spectrum with boy scout on one end and daredevil on the other. I go back and forth, depending on the route's dificulty, length, and how I happen to be feeling that day. I do tend to lean towards boy scout though, because I'd rather carry unused gear than die. I'm just silly that way. On the other hand, the lighter I go, the faster I can move, and the less tired I get. Geez, you're making me think too much.
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oldandintheway
Aug 14, 2002, 3:51 PM
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Boy Scout
Trustworthy, Loyal, Helpful, Friendly, Couteous, Kind, Obedient, Cheerful, Thrifty, Brave, Clean and Reverent. Well, ten out of twelve ain't too bad right?
[ This Message was edited by: oldandintheway on 2002-08-14 09:39 ]
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toobigtoclimb
Aug 14, 2002, 4:20 PM
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Boy Scout for sure. I look like a porcupine crawling up the rock with all of the gear on my rack.
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marcel
Aug 14, 2002, 4:25 PM
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Does placeing pro every foot make me an Evil Caneival?
Just joking. I'd ditto wildtrail. Placing gear is fun, trying to get the right fit and bomb proff is the best!
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climbjs
Aug 14, 2002, 4:38 PM
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Boy scout, for sure. Personally, I'd rather have too much than not enough. Plus, I tend to lace up sketchy sections.
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superdiamonddave
Aug 14, 2002, 4:38 PM
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I even bring the kitchen sink.
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radistrad
Aug 14, 2002, 4:48 PM
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Safe than sorry, I'm a Boy Scout, I guess.
Why have all the cool gear if your not going to use it.
I generally bring more than what is needed, I rack for the climb. Obviously one would not bring a 6" cam on a 1" crack...
Hmmm, I'd rather be a live coward than a dead "hero"
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skier-climber
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Aug 14, 2002, 5:07 PM
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Well, I guess i am a boy scout. I usualy cary more gear than is needed but i do crazy stuff on the wall so i think im both, am i
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hangerlessbolt
Aug 14, 2002, 5:15 PM
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I err on the side of caution.
I take a look at the guidebook for initial pointers. Then I scope the route as best I can. If it’s a long multi-pitch route, I know that I will need additional pieces for belay anchors.
”Tis better to have it and not need it…than to need it and not have it”
If the leader is about to cast off and feels that he/she doesn’t need that #4 camalot for that pitch, they’ll pass it onto the second.
Heck, if for nothing else you can use your rack to weight an unstable slung nut on a hangerlessbolt!
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chuckd278
Aug 14, 2002, 5:41 PM
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No you don't superdiamonddave. I remember a 120 ft pitch with 3 peices of gear.
Chuck
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superdiamonddave
Aug 14, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Ahh, this may be true young grasshopper. While I might have only placed three pieces, I still took along the kitchen sink for good measure.
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chuckd278
Aug 14, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Aha true superdiamonddave, true.
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indigo_nite
Aug 14, 2002, 10:41 PM
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boy, err, girl scout. I try to take doubles of small-medium everything.
Just climbed with a guide who placed everything, stoppers and cams, so meticulously that you had to slip everything out at a precise angle to retrieve it. He said he'd fallen at times and pulled pieces. Whoa.
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elvislegs
Aug 14, 2002, 10:58 PM
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I am The Last Boy Scout
[ This Message was edited by: elvislegs on 2002-08-14 16:22 ]
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waxman
Aug 14, 2002, 11:20 PM
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Boy Scout all the way! "Always be prepared."
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crackaddict
Aug 14, 2002, 11:23 PM
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Long free routes that I have not done I tend to over do it.
But on single pitch climbs or a long route I have done I can eyeball what I need and dont bog myself down with gear.
I would hate to bring all my cams up route since I own 35. Too much weight.
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beyond_gravity
Aug 15, 2002, 1:56 AM
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Be careful to hide those reefers where they will not br found. and be careful not to smoke them when the scout masters around...for he only will insist they will be shared!
Be PREPARED
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moonshine
Aug 15, 2002, 2:44 AM
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i bring a rack and a half but try not to place it unless i need it (hideous fall potential, for example). the more i push my comfort level (running it out) the larger my comfort level gets and the more i trust my abilities and judgement. also, on slab, 4 bolts per 160 feet forces you to CLIMB the rock instead of climbing the rack. if your hand is number 2 size, there's no reason to ever place a number two.
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apollodorus
Aug 15, 2002, 4:00 AM
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Walls are the great, level playing field. You don't have to be either Evel Knievel, or Richard Simmons. You clip a 5mm tag line to the back of your harness, carry a light rack, and then hand-over-hand whatever you forgot to bring with you.
This technique is probably also valuable for that trad pitch that starts out thin, then gets into the wide stuff above. Why do a finger crack with #4 Camalots flailing you, when you can bring them up later? You can also tag up water and the Pack to the belay this way.
Even sport climbers on first ascent can climb light, then haul up the bolt kit when they get to that tiny foothold that seems like a giant ledge after all that 5.XX thin face/smearing.
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coldclimb
Aug 15, 2002, 4:28 AM
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I bring everything that I might possibly need on the climb. I don't like lowering off and seeing 20 feet between pro. Doesn't bug me while climbing, cause I just don't notice, but afterwards I look and go, "AAAAAAHHHHH!"
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coach
Aug 15, 2002, 3:03 PM
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I would also say Boy Scout! On single pitch it is easier to pare it down to what you think you need and maybe add a couple small to medium pieces. On multi pitch I take the kitchen sink. Lead will take what they want for each pitch and second will bring up the rest. Seems to work fine for me.
Climb On
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hishopper
Aug 15, 2002, 3:42 PM
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Daredevil to the max: that is, I don't place pro myself yet, so I exist on the skills of my lead partner - fortuneatly he falls more into the BoyScout category.
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climbera5
Aug 22, 2002, 2:03 AM
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One pitch, I carry only what I need. Multi-pitch I carry a full rack and leave behind the big stuff if I don't need it. Weight adds up on a grade IV or V so I like to conserve where possible. If I'm on a long moderate I usually climb until I'm uncomfortable with the next move and then I'll look for a placement. So on many pitches I'll arrive at the belay with a nearly full rack.
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icecap
Aug 22, 2002, 3:10 AM
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Definitly a Boyscout I love climbing but it's just a sport and I'm not gonna kill myself doing it so I play it safe and live.
Tony
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rockunderfoot
Aug 22, 2002, 3:33 AM
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I'm a boy scout I carry my entire rack on any lead. I only probably have a small to medium rack that's growing, but I figure it's good experience to climb with the hinderence. Plus those #10 and 11 hexes sound cool
After this one climb my friend and I each led, we figured we were probably the only ones to place 8-9 pieces on the 40 ft line, so having it all along is probably good for now anyways.
[ This Message was edited by: rockunderfoot on 2002-08-21 20:34 ]
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whipper
Aug 22, 2002, 3:59 AM
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when in doubt, run it out. you place to much and you get burned. My partner this friday ran out a 100 foot section five pitches of the deck. I dont place if im not gonna fall. Not for every one mind you but you did ask.
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