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fearlessclimber
Mar 27, 2007, 5:55 PM
Post #26 of 44
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not on an aid climb but i recently had a 60 foot fall while clibing at pinnicle peak on one of the 11 face climbs, my gurthest fall yet i guess. I got to say it was one hell of a ride.
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climbinginchico
Mar 28, 2007, 11:19 PM
Post #27 of 44
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holdplease2 wrote: ClimbinginChico - When ya comin' back to Josh? I found another "Double Crux Bypass" alternative for us! Can't wait to climb with you again!!!!!!! -Kate.
Let's see, it's snowing down there, and 75 here in norcal... I'll just have to suffer with the Valley!
Call me when you're headed north! I might try to take a Red Rocks trip in April, I'll let you know.
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mandrake
Mar 29, 2007, 4:09 AM
Post #28 of 44
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Posts: 188
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Okay, well, it's nothing like Kate's monster screamer, but this got my attention anyway: couple years ago in the spring, you remember after the fantastic skiing winter with hip-deep pow even in freaking flagstaff, we decided we were gonna get our first frikkin wall topout if it killed us. So we showed up in zion canyon in early april, and manage to find an opening on Spaceshot.
So, I'm on pitch 5, make the traverse past the drilled angle into the crack at the right. Okay, work my way past shitty tricams set sideways in flaring pods, get a seemingly bomber (note the foreshadowing) .75 camalot in a pod and then to the thin crack above. Work a tiny HB brassy into an anorexic earthworm track, climb up the aiders, watch the sand trickle out from each side of the nut ("like sand through the hourglass..."). Scramble up the aiders, desperately search for something else, anything else, slot in another frikkin shitty brass HB. Clip aider to new HB. Old HB cuts out, leaving me hanging on the new shitty HB, feet dangling and kicking like Saddam. HOLY SHIT!!!! Wow, no whip! Woo, hoo! I've read about that, lookit me ma, I'm aid climbin'!
Climb the aiders up the new shitty HB, sand trickling out the sides. In the 2nd steps, tricam in hand, approaching a good placement, I can see it like slow motion. Airborne. Hit the bomber pod, it explodes (good ski season=wet spring sandstone?). My limp falling body shakes ka-doonk, ka-doonk, ka-doonk as each successive piece blows. Then hear ripping and come to a stop, dirt raining down on me. Look up, on the last shitty tricam, I've fully deployed the screamer. 30+ feet down and I've gotta reclimb the whole freakin mess!
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dr_feelgood
Mar 31, 2007, 1:15 AM
Post #29 of 44
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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I have to say, my only aid whippers weren't long. However, when you are doing a 30ish foot aid climb and you can almost step down to the ground after you whip, it makes it so much more excitinging...
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cosmiccragsman
Mar 31, 2007, 2:00 AM
Post #30 of 44
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Registered: Apr 7, 2005
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My longest aid fall, was back in the late 70s.
Approx. 80 ft on the North American Wall
Cosmiccragsman
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truello
Apr 9, 2007, 8:10 PM
Post #32 of 44
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fearlessclimber wrote: i still have a scar on my hand from hanging on the wire of the micronut, pretty much saved my life.
The best scars have stories like that behind them. I have a scar on my eye from since I was little, thanks to my cousin thinking that swinging a frying pan at my face would be a good idea. Not as cool as a micronut saving your life, but I like the "WTF?" face everyone has after I explain how I got it :).
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kane_schutzman
Apr 9, 2007, 8:24 PM
Post #33 of 44
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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I was debating on posting this and actually decided against it, until I seen this thread. Debated posting, because I really do not know what happened, although I don't think it was an error on my part.
Like a week ago, I went soloing at HCR during the middle of the week. It was late in the afternoon and NO one was climbing, weird being the only one in that place but it happened. Anyways, I clipped two dovals onto my belay loop, and to the bolt.Next, I went and climbed above the bolt like 1-2 ft in order to do something with the rope. Normally I would not climb above my static setup like that, but it was a 5.9 and there was no way I would fall. When I sit back down in my harness I hear 2 pops simulatiously, look down and I think SHIT! Both my biners popped off my belay loop, leaving me totally unprotected 50+ off the deck. I was expecting my weight to be supported, but the sudden chance left me hanging to two Jugs-Luckily.Now my setup was the dovals and an 6mm mammut 24inch sling. It was windy as hell that day, and fumbling around with those biners wasnt fun. Anyways, its a damn good thing I was paying somewhat of some attention.
Now, I am not sure how it could have happened, and I wish I could recall what I did. Usually I use opposite and opposed on the loop, so I assum thats what I did. I had already sat in the harness before the popoff, so I can only assume that they were fully seated. Maybe it was a freak thing, idk. Just be fucking carefull, and I would not just plop down in your harness..
It just gets me though,
Two biners are not supposed to detach like that.
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Apr 9, 2007, 8:25 PM)
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climbinginchico
Apr 9, 2007, 9:01 PM
Post #34 of 44
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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Lockers won't.
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tarsier
Apr 19, 2007, 4:42 PM
Post #35 of 44
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Registered: Jun 7, 2003
Posts: 127
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I made the mistake of rapping off tat to backclean --and that's the last I remember until I regained consciousness upside down with a badly bruised heel and dried blood on my head. I had clipped a ledge on the way down and inverted, stopping below my anchor. An upside down cam hook that I had left in was straightened and popped, but the next cam hook below that held the fall. Fresh head wounds make a nice conversation starter at the Quickie Mart. Moral: if you're drunk and solo without a helmet rapping off tattered webbing in a remote area then bring cam hooks. Duh.
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builttospill
Apr 20, 2007, 3:20 AM
Post #36 of 44
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
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Why in god's name would you trust your life to two carabiners on a sling like that?
As someone said in another thread, why not back it up with a clove hitch on a rope, and use a locker or two on your harness?
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kane_schutzman
Apr 20, 2007, 3:27 AM
Post #37 of 44
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I had two different slings, and sets of biners. Basically two draws....Still though, I am using lockers now...
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medicus
Apr 20, 2007, 3:39 AM
Post #38 of 44
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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Yeah, I was surprised seeing you climb without lockers. I don't know if you noticed, but dad and I both had our own set up with lockers and slings. I got to see when I brought Dad up as a second why lockers were so important. My set up could have easily opened both of the biners if they had not been locked.
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holdplease2
Apr 20, 2007, 2:58 PM
Post #39 of 44
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
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Once while hanging out on a footrail ledge at the top of a climb, I clipped in with two slings girth hitched and two non-locking biners.
I had about half of my weight leaning on the biners, and half on my feet.
At one pont I shifted around to the side to adapt to the way my partner was going to be arriving at the anchor. One of the non-locker attachment points popped out of the anchor and hit me in the chest.
I have seen my friends clip into the anchor with one non-locker because "A secure stance" counts as an anchor point. However, the moment you weight your biner attachment point, your life can depend on it.
So se lockers or be redundant. Better yet, do both every time that your time limits and gear will allow.
-Kate.
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medicus
Apr 20, 2007, 3:12 PM
Post #40 of 44
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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Exactly why I don't think I could ever be comfortable not using lockers when anchoring. I don't know... I guess I just don't really want to take "The Most Bitchin Fall" just because I didn't want to deal with grabbing an extra locker or whatever.
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LamontagnedeGatineau
Nov 16, 2008, 6:55 PM
Post #41 of 44
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kane_schutzman wrote: I had two different slings, and sets of biners. Basically two draws....Still though, I am using lockers now...
The cliff goblin strikes again!!!
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evanwish
Dec 12, 2008, 2:46 AM
Post #42 of 44
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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stymingersfink wrote: ^^^no shit!^^^^ a whole 5th! Wasted! 
a whole 5th = Wasted!
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lambone
Dec 15, 2008, 9:56 PM
Post #43 of 44
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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nice thread bump!
I don't have any "most bitchenest fall" stories.
But I may have a done one off the most "fuck yourself in the ass things right after a fall" stories...
p5 of T-Trip, I blew a red alien after backcleaning from that midway 2 bolt false anchor. I had one bolt clipped with a regular biner.
It was a nice 30ft fall into space, super fun. I was self belaying with a gri-gri and everything worked prefect. I was actually totally stoked about the fall and yelled back to my two partners at the p4 belay who were space jugging the pigs up from the ground. Woohoo! I was having a blast and they were suffering, poor bastards.
That is until...
I jugged up the line and like a dumb ass pushed my top jug all the way up to the biner...
You know, like you did back when you were a total n00b trying to learn how to clean a traversing pitch. Only I wasn't cleaning, I was leading.
So, then I repeated another even stupider manuver by releasing my gri-gri! WTF was I thinking? just wasn't I guess... So basicaly that rope that I had just fallen on which had about 100ft out directly back to the belay anchor, promptly sucked that jug soooo hard and twisted into that biner that it looked like the godamn thing was going to chop the freaking rope in half!
I first clipped a daisy to the bolt anchor, and tried to figure out what the fuck to do. Couldn't figure out anything smart and resigned to the coveted "brute force" method.
I ended up yarding back on that rope on my jug as hard as I possibly could. Felt like hauling a 500lb pig up a slab. At one point I thought my harness was going to pull off my waist because I was doing such a hard squat off the wall, nearly giving myself a hurnia.
Finally I got the jug loose and the rope wasn't looking so hot, but not chopped, so we kept going anyway...
so yeah, try not to do that...
:)
(This post was edited by lambone on Dec 15, 2008, 10:07 PM)
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churningindawake
Dec 15, 2008, 10:00 PM
Post #44 of 44
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Registered: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 5292
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lambone wrote: nice thread bump! I don't have any "most bitchenest fall" stories. But I may have done one off the most "fuck yourself in the ass" things right after after this one fall I took. p5 of T-Trip, I blew a red alien after backcleaning from that midway 2 bolt false anchor. I had one bolt clipped with a regular biner. It was a nice 30ft fall into space, super fun. I was self belaying with a gri-gri and everything worked prefect. I was actually totally stoked about the fall and yelled back to my two partners at the p4 belay who were space jugging the pigs up from the ground. Woohoo! I was having a blast and they were suffering, poor bastards. That is until... I jugged up the line and like a dumb ass pushed my top jug all the way up to the biner... Then repeated another even stupider manuver by releasing my gri-gri. So basically that rope that I had just fallen on which had about 100ft out back to the belay anchor, promptly sucked that jug soooo hard and twisted into that biner that it looked like the godamn thing was going to chop the freaking rope in half! I first clipped a daisy to the bolt anchor, and tried to figure out what the fuck to do. Couldn't figure out anything else but the coveted "brute force" method. I ended up yarding back on that rope on my jug as hard as I possibly could. Felt like hauling a 500lb pig up a slab. At one point I thought my harness was going to pull off my waist because I was doing such a hard squat off the wall, nearly giving myself a hurnia. Finally I got the jug loose and the rope wasn't looking so hot, but not chopped, so we kept going anyway... so yeah, try not to do that... :)
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