May 21, 2007, 6:47 PM
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correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I wanted to start this thread because there are always tons of questions popping up about "how big should my rack be?"
The purpose of this thread is to correlate the level of your leading to how much gear you carry and where you climb, IN GENERAL.
Obviously there will be differences due to route considerations, specialty pieces, if you are leading harder than what you've ever led before, etc. This is about correlating climbing level to the average rack that you carry on multipitch routes.
After answering the poll, please post according to the following format:
General level of leading trad:
Hardest trad lead:
Typical length of pitches in your area:
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
May 21, 2007, 6:49 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I'll go first!
General Level of leading trad: 5.10
Hardest trad lead: 5.11a
Length of routes: 35 meter length pitches are common.
Gear: (26 pieces of pro) 11 cams: 1 full set metolius cams 00-8 plus the small supercam 10 nuts: 1 full set nuts 3 tricams: .5-1.5 2 hexes: WC #9, BD #6 12 trad draws (2 of which are double runners run through the biner 2x) 2 double runners with 4 lockers
May 21, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I selected 2 dozen, but I think I'm actually just over, though it varies somewhat. The rack I pack most days is 28 pieces. That's 18 cams and ten nuts. I only carry around six runners, because most of my cams are pre-slung at 18". I don't carry all of it everytime unless I'm feeling a little stressed about the lead. And if I'm redpointing, I whittle 'er down to the bare minimum, which, obviously, varies according to the route.
But isn't this kinda geographically dependent, too?
(Oops, forgot a few things. The New is almost entirely single pitch, with most being in the 20-30m range. I start to sweat bullets somewhere around mid 5.10 and have sent up to 11c.)
(This post was edited by j_ung on May 21, 2007, 7:21 PM)
May 21, 2007, 7:18 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Hmmm, I wouldn't have considered runners and trad draws as "pro."
I've only been leading for a couple of years, so I'm usually carrying a lot more than I need, but it depends on the area. If I'm at a place like Stone Mountain where there's a lot of runout routes, I'll pare my rack drastically.
So here's my stats:
General trad lead level: 5.8 Hardest lead: 5.9 Route length: typically 100' or more Gear: (30, not counting runners and draws) 14 cams: Camalots .3 - 2 (doubles of #1, #2); Metolius #3 -7; Aliens 1 each blue, green Full set of 10 Wallnuts 6 tricams: .5 - 3 (doubles in pink, red)
This is pretty much my standard rack; I'll add bigger and/or smaller cams when I think I'll need them.
May 21, 2007, 7:19 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I feel i sew up the hard bits and run out the easy bits.
General level of leading trad: been onsigting into the mid 5.10's lately.
Hardest trad lead: 5.9
Typical length of pitches in your area:20-60m. Lots around ~30.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
1-2 sets of cams from tiny to fist or off-fist (doubles in fingers through hands or cupped hands). 1-2 sets of nuts (including some micros and some biggish ones). Half that for easier stuff or slaby routes with some bolts. 10-12 trad draws. Cordellet, prussic, lockers nut-tool. Hexes and tricams only when teaching, big cams when needed.
May 21, 2007, 8:20 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Trad lead varies on fitness & headspace, I lead (not necessarily onsight) .10+
Number of pieces: 26ish 14 cams 12 nuts
pitch length: generally 100-140ish. (EDIT: often try to link pitches into 180-200')
general disclaimer about leaving stuff on the ground, yadda yadda. I typically will bring all that on a multipitch though, maybe even a couple extra cams for belays and a mental security blankie. I have felt myself hosed by faulty guidebook rack listings more than one time.
I'm also one of those dudes who doesn't mind showing up at a belay with 10 or even 15 pieces still on my rack. But I know some guys who hate that!
(This post was edited by caughtinside on May 21, 2007, 8:22 PM)
May 21, 2007, 8:42 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: Pretty solid to 5.9+ of any kind, unless it's rotten unprotectable rock.
Hardest trad lead: Hardest onsight: 5.11b/c
Typical length of pitches in your area: I mean, the typical pitch at the Gunks is 80-120 feet, while some routes on Cannon have pitches that typically check in at more like 140-180 feet per pitch.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: Geez, it really varies, mostly on the length of the pitches. Then there's the size of the crack. If it's a small crack, I'll take mostly stoppers, and a few small to mid-size cams. Where if it's a big crack, I might have no choice but to load up on double size 3, 3 1/2, 4 Camalots! Plus the smaller gear for when i can find side cracks.
With all that said. My medium rack for the Gunks: 3 tricams, lots of stoppers, one set of cams from black Alien through #3 Camalot (9-10 cams), and sometimes a set of hexes to double for the big cams. Then I can add or subtract from that.
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on May 21, 2007, 8:56 PM)
May 21, 2007, 9:00 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I'm gonna say around 2 dozen pieces of pro for Vedauwoo, where there's maybe a dozen truly multipitch routes, and most pitches are under 30m. Around 15 or so pieces when I'm climbing in the Snowies, where everything is multipitch and the average pitch is a full 60m.
And both for routes around 5.7/5.8, with occasional 5.10 moves thrown in for good measure.
To clarify, that's a single set of nuts in each case (dropping the largest nuts when in the Snowies) and a full set of cams from tips to big fists for Vedauwoo, and a half set of cams from fingers to tight hands in the Snowies.
And this is for onsight purposes. If I know more about a route, I'll leave a lot of things behind (eg small gear gets left behind unless I know I can use it on an offwidth, or the hands stuff gets left behind if I'm on a finger crack that won't use the big stuff for an anchor).
May 21, 2007, 9:24 PM
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Re: [saxfiend] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Sax- He he, whoops, looks like I did; my bad :D
And the rest of you guys: you beginners can put up your numbers too! I was hoping for this to be a "safe" thread where everyone can post what they use and what levels they climb at. Maybe it will help people see a correlation of beginners with larger racks, or less cams, or whatever, but just post your stuff. This is not a "5.10 or harder only" club thread; it's for beginners too!
Post away you 5.7 trad leaders; there is nothing to be embarrassed about: it's a poll!
And to everyone who's posted already, thanks for taking the time to vote and taking the time to write up your "standard" racks and info about your skill level and where you climb! Kudos to all of you!
May 21, 2007, 9:34 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.10a-b Hardest trad lead: 5.11d Typical length of pitches in your area: Full Pitch 50+ meters 10 or more pitches per route (Yosemite) Gear: Yosemite requires a rather large rack (for me). I generally climb with a double set of nuts and a set of Camalots (0.5 to 3.5) with doubles depending on the size of the cracks. If the anchors are on gear I double up on all the cams.
If i know the route well, I can usually whittle the rack down to a double set of nuts and a few cams.
May 21, 2007, 9:38 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: Pretty comfortable in the 5.7-5.7+'s @ Seneca. I'm trying to break into the 5.8's there this year, and maybe snag a 9 or two
Hardest trad lead: Meh... made it up a 5.9 once. Not an onsite, and not at Seneca.
Typical length of pitches in your area: Anywhere from 60ish to 120+ish @ Seneca depending on whether or not I'm linking pitches or not, and whether I'm on nOOb duty or not.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: The rack is in re-build-mode since Alien-gate. Right now, I'm climbing on C4's .4 through 4, doubled in 1 and 2. 1-4 TCUs, and no. 1 and 2 C3s. gonna get either the rest of the C3s or 0 and 00 TCU (or both... depends on $ and how much I like these C3s I'm trying out). So That's 15 cams right now, usually 17 or 18. I certainly don't carry all of that on every route. Like others have mentioned, depends on how much I know about the route. I'm certainly not one of those badasses you see w/ 4 nuts, 3 cams and a couple of draws hanging off their 2 ounce harness. #4 C4 makes me feel warm and fuzzy, but it spends more time in the pack than on the rack.
I carry the smallest three Tri-cams, but I think I'm gonna complement them w/ that 4 pack of new ones that's out now, as I'll be climbing the Gunks for the next 4 years (school).
Used to carry a double set of nuts, now carry only one set of BD stoppers 1-13 . I'd like to compliment it w/ a coupule of the remade HB offsets in the midsizes when they come out. I don't climb hard enough to have a serious need for micronuts yet, but I'll probably snag some in the future.
Carried the biggest 5 BD hexes for a half dozen trips or so to supplement before I realized I didn't really need them, and they were extra weight that I could lose. So.... I gues that probably puts me somewhere between a couple dozen and over thirty depending on the route. For poll purposes, I checked the latter, as I'm new enough that I still like to bring some "mental security blanket gear" more often than not (thx caughtinside). Add a dozen or so trad draws to that in addition to the usual misc. gear. Right now I'm in "how light can I get my rack mode". It's not necessary, but If I can make it better, why not?
(This post was edited by bobruef on May 21, 2007, 9:52 PM)
May 21, 2007, 9:53 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I'm a seamstress! Assuming I am leading a route around my general level, and I don't know exactly what gear I will need ahead of time anyway...
General level=low to mid 5.10 Hardest trad lead=5.10d(clean)...5.11a(hangdog) Typical length=20-30m "Standard" rack=full set of nuts, set of cams (10-12), random tri-cams, lowe-balls, etc
May 21, 2007, 9:54 PM
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Re: [bobruef] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Leading 5.7 - 5.8 right now.
Usual rack I have 12 Draws (most trad draws) Set of Nuts... with doubles from 6 - 12 Tri Cams Pink - Blue Hexes. Cams (right now .75, 1, and 3. Though with every pay cheque the #'s grow) Various such as Nut tool, Slings etc
Not massivoe yet, but partner also has gear which we mix (affordable climbing ) Gotta lova pay cheques... = bigger rack..
May 21, 2007, 10:03 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.10ish
Hardest trad lead: .11b, i think.
Typical length of pitches in your area: varies widely, but generally 120' or so.
Gear: green, red, yellow C3s, one each grey through grey C4s, one each, occasionally doubled in green and purple (bad sizes) set of nuts.
thats like...20 plus 2 or 3 depending on the day. i would also not say that i like to run it out, although i do tend to place gear 10-20' apart, but certainly more often just before and just after cruxes.
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on May 22, 2007, 1:31 AM)
May 21, 2007, 11:10 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Average Trad Lead - 0% success rate onsighting 12+. 50% success rate onsighting 12b/c, 80% success rate onsighting 12a, 98% success rate onsighting mid 11. This season, it's probably abnormally high due to some neat things that have come together for me.
It all depends on the route, I climb routes varrying from 35 to 2000 feet. In general, I keep my rack light.
8-10 two foot runner draws Green alien, 2 yellow, 2 red, 1 orange, one purple, one clear. 3, 3.5, and 4 friend. Set of nuts.
Anything else is brought in special consideration of the route.
May 21, 2007, 11:26 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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kind of a weird Q it is like rating, its all about you and all bull shit. n WA all you need us usually a double rack from 00 to 3-3.5 in utah you need a LOT I have 76 cams 4 sets of nutz and constantly re-arranging my rack according to rack usual rack i leave the ground with can be between 7 to 27 cams routes range from 60 to 165 feet in veadauwoo you need completely different rack needless to say so just buy a lot of cams and get a lot of the size thats hard for you like bd .75 and if you have to ask HOW many cams do i need you should probably keep to quick draws! just kiddin!! all in all your rack should be HUGE!!!!!! unless your climbing with the brits im no help happy climbing
May 21, 2007, 11:31 PM
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Trad Noob. Second season. on an average for a routes height I'd guess between 45'- 400'
Trad rack- Tri-Cams Pink through blue. Cams- 0.75- 2 C4's. 5-7 Trango Flex Cams, Metolious Power Cams 2-4 and a set and a half of nuts minus the larger and micro sizes. this is for an average day of climbing 1-2 Pitch routes. I sometimes break out the big guns(4.5-5 C4's) if I feel it may pertain to the route.
May 21, 2007, 11:38 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 9 or 10
Hardest trad lead: 11b
Typical length of pitches in your area: 80-120ft
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: Cams: #00,0,1,2 c3s #.4,.5,.5,.75 c4s (bootied one of the .5s) #1,2,2,3 Max Cams #1 link cam
Nuts: bunch of nuts, the only ones that aren't bootied are size 3-7 bds. probably a 10 bd with four or five wierd ones thrown in.
Other: 4 trad draws 6 sport draws 2 four foot slings (trippled twice each for multi) maybe a pink tricam
May 21, 2007, 11:43 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I live in Maine and have climbed mostly at Acadia, Camden, North Conway, and Cannon. Routes are typically 80-120 feet except Cannon. I climbed a lot of 5.8s and 9s on the following:
2 RP nuts (2 and 3) 4 Astro Nuts (7-10) 5 Wallnuts (4-8) 4 tricams (1 pink, 2 red, 1 brown) (more versatile than large nuts and cover the same range) 4 TCUs (blue-red) 3-4 C4s (.75-2 or 3)
with 5-6 draws and 3 to 5 shoulder length slings
My hardest lead was a 40 foot 11d which I took double small nuts and two cams on (only used one but wasn't sure of size from ground).
Lately I have been climbing more 10s and bring a yellow and a red alien. For clean aid I'll add a 00 and 0 TCU and another set of nuts up to #10 stopper, as well as cam hooks.
(This post was edited by bkalaska on May 21, 2007, 11:50 PM)
May 21, 2007, 11:58 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.8
Hardest trad lead: 5.10b (I thought it was a 5.7)
Typical length of pitches in your area: Anywhere between 25 to 90 feet in Connecticut and typical gunks pitches sometimes linked (up to about 180 feet) Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: my "onsight rack" trango brassies and BD micronuts (the four rated for free climbing) aliens blue-red camalots .75-3 BD stoppers 4-13 some doubles (maybe a #7 and a #5 and a #1 hex I found) pink and red tricam hb alum offsets
I will bring a bigger cam (#4 or #5) if things get wide, or more tricams if I feel like it.
I tend to place alot, but I also backclean alot too.
May 22, 2007, 1:06 AM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading 5.10+
Hardest trad lead 5.11d
Typical length of pitches in your area 45m
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
I carry only cams and stoppers for pro. I don't waste my time with hexes, tri cams etc... I climb on Sierra granite mostly ranging from single pitch to 20+ pitches. A multi pitch route will typically require Double cams from .5 - 3" and one set of nuts including one set of Peenuts. If it's single pitch it depends. I've carried as few as 5 pieces of pro. Actually, on multi pitch routes, I view all pitches as they are.....single pitches. I will not carry every single piece of gear on every single pitch. If the pitch is thin, I won't hesitate to leave the larger crap with my second or visa versa. Also, if its an easy pitch, I'll drastically downsize my load. Remember, multi pitch routes are only single pitch routes stacked on top of one another.
May 22, 2007, 1:30 AM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Usually carry a single set of cams, 1-5 flexcams. A sinlge set of nuts, with doubles in certain sizes. usally some hexes. maybe a full set of hexes, and some tri-cams if the route really needs it. I lead at about 5.10, hardest lead at 5.11a. pitches usually between 30-60 meters.
May 22, 2007, 3:17 AM
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Re: [iamthewallress] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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iamthewallress wrote:
I love that the option for those who profess to prefer the R/X is up to two dozen peices of pro.
That's two full sets of cams, micro to enormous...or a set of nuts and a double set of cams in the fingers to hands range.
That is actually a point! Didn't really notice it, 'cause I know I carry too much gear now days. I used to do easy (up to 5.7) multi-pitch PG rated slab climbs with 2 sets of nuts (technically 26 pieces, but I never used the smallest ones). And I have seen plenty of people onsight 20m+ well protected routes with a handful of nuts and couple cams.
May 22, 2007, 2:14 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.9
Hardest trad lead: 5.10d
Typical length of pitches in your area: Pitch length varies from as short as 40' at my local crag to full on 200 footers on NC multipitch...most often, cragging, they're 80-100 ft.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: For pitches less than 100' or so, my rack is commonly what follows:
If I know multiples of a size are required, I'll add doubles in cams in that range or take some hexes (yes, I use them)
For typical SE multipitch, I add half a set of nuts, tricams brown and blue (one each), TCUs 00 & 0, double cams C4 0.5-2
For routes that have long pitches and are totally unknown, I'll rack 1.5 sets of nuts, tricams pink thru blue (2x pink and red), double set of cams TCU 00 - BD C4 3, and one 4" piece.
May 22, 2007, 2:22 PM
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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angry wrote:
All the R/X routes I've done were R/X because I couldn't get any gear into it, no matter how much of it I carried.
1,2,3,4 dozen cams on an R/X route, you still only find a spot to place one (badly).
The rating is about the rock taking gear, not the rack you carry.
My point was that people that carry almost no gear make normally protectable routes R or X routes based on the fact that they don't have enough gear to protect it. It was supposed to be hinting at sarcasm too, FWIW. Peter
May 22, 2007, 2:25 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.7-5.8
Hardest trad lead: 5.10a
Typical length of pitches in your area: 2-3
This really isn't my standard rack per say, but this is what gets taken up on the long routes that can throw anything at you.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack\:
43 pieces in total, 21 cams
1-11 hexes (except a #6 that's in capitol reef utah somewhere) two sets of wc rocks set of trango brassies 1-8 metolius powercams .5-9 trango flexcams 7-9 rock empire robots pinky tricam purple bigbro
Most of the time I'll run with the metolius and trango cams and one set of nuts, if it's a long route i'll bring the extra set of nuts, and if the route takes wide gear i'll take the rock empires and big bro, thin gear routes get the brassies... little pinky always comes along.
(This post was edited by kobaz on May 22, 2007, 2:27 PM)
May 22, 2007, 2:35 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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john,
i ran into a guy who climbed with you for a weekend this spring and he saie that you onsighted ruby's, is that true? if so, fck an a, nice work!
great thread with a nice absence of flaming. here's my info.
general consistent (90%) onsight level: 5.10/5.10c best onsight: several in the 11+/11d range
where do i climb: pretty much everywhere i can. my favorites are the desert, south platte, vedauwoo, lumpy, lover's leap, etc.
standard rack: this is very highly dependent on where i am climbing, the route, etc. if it is a long, sustained crack route that has long, sustained pitches that vary from tips to fist and gear anchors every pitch, i usually carry an arsenal (partly because i am too lazy to pare it down and i am used to it)
2 sets micro nuts- HB's and BD's (like having both, because when you get this small it is crucial to get the best fit that you possibly can) 1.5 sets of medium and large stoppers 3 smallest ballnutz set of tcu's from silver to orange set of offset aliens (use these a ton) 2 sets camalots from .5 to 3 1 new #4 c4 camalot.
again, it is highly dependent on where and what i am climbing. at vedauwoo, i will carry a double set from small to tall in my pack, and then rack for the pitch accordingly. at the creek we usually carry 6 to 10 sets of cams and rack accordingly. eldo, usually a lot of small stuff and maybe 1 #2 camalot and 1 #3 camalot based on route description.
May 22, 2007, 2:50 PM
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Re: [studclimber] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Hardest trad lead: 5.12b (but it fit my fingers perfectly and my style so I thought it was more .11dish). Lately: redpointing 5.12a's, onsight: 5.11d
General Level of trad leading: 5.11c-d
General length of local area: Paradise Forks so its 20-30m
General Rack: Depends on the route: For a route like Loose Lips (5.10d, 20ish meters) its 1 grey (0.4) microcamaolot, 1 purple (0.5) camalot, 2 green (0.75 camalots) and 1-2 red camolots (5-6 pieces), for Three Turkeys (5.11c; 0ish meters) 1 red 3C cam 1 grey (0.4) camalot, 1 purple (0.5) camalot, 3 green (0.75) camalots, 2 red (1.0) camalots (8 cams). For Mutiney on the Bounty. 3 blue (0.3) camalots,4 grey (0.4) camalots, 3purple (0.5) and 2 green (0.75)...........
And I agree with Angry, the routes that I've done that are R/X you usually only get 0-3 pieces in so it doesn't matter if you carry the kitchen sink or not, since if you can't place it, its doesn't matter if you carry it or not.
(This post was edited by cchas on May 22, 2007, 2:55 PM)
May 22, 2007, 3:17 PM
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Re: [kobaz] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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kobaz wrote:
cchas wrote:
Hardest trad lead: 5.12b
I feel weak.
Why? Ain't it all relative. I look at Angry and feel weak, and I know some women that walk up things I fall on. If our name isn't Caldwell or Trotter, I suppose then we are weak, and for me, I don't care since I figure I can always get better.
(This post was edited by cchas on May 22, 2007, 4:47 PM)
May 22, 2007, 3:46 PM
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Re: [studclimber] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.7-5.8
Hardest trad lead: 5.9
Typical length of pitches in your area: 70' -150' multipitch
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
Multipitch rack: two sets of nuts,18 Cams C4's from .4 to 4 (doubles from .4 to 2) C3's 00-2 and WC zeros 1 and 2. I also carry 10 trad draws and anywhere from 4 to 6 over the shoulder slings with binners.
I typicaly lead long wondering pitches at J-Tree, Tahquitz, and Yosemite. Even though I carry upto 18 cams I find myself placing very few, It seems I place more nuts then cams. But due to the multipitch stuff I climb I figure three cams are always lost at all times on mine or my partners belay. And they always seem to be the most useful ones for the pitch. I am getting comfortable with this rack and would use it quite offten. So flame away when you see me at the crag but it works for me.
May 22, 2007, 5:05 PM
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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angry wrote:
All the R/X routes I've done were R/X because I couldn't get any gear into it, no matter how much of it I carried.
1,2,3,4 dozen cams on an R/X route, you still only find a spot to place one (badly).
The rating is about the rock taking gear, not the rack you carry.
I got the other guys point...He was asking how many folks prefered to travel light at increased risk.
Why would you take 4 dozen cams on route with one or two placements if you knew that was the deal?
I guess I thought (at least around here where the rock is strong and varied) a 'standard' singles rack would be a set of nuts (10) and cams from green (or blue) alien to yellow or blue camalot...maybe grey. (10 or 11) As a starting point without pairing down to the bare necessities that is less than two dozen pieces and allows for a peice at least every 10 feet on a 100 foot pitch with a pile left over.
A lot of times I skip the nuts and bring extra cams for a total of around 15 or 16 peices.
Or if it's hard at a particular size, I bring extra cams in that range and the small nuts...back up to 20ish peices.
Running it out has its place, but I don't need to run it out with that rack unless I'm running really, really long pitches.
Beyond a full set of double cams (around 2 dozen cams, maybe less), it gets too heavy for me to move.
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on May 22, 2007, 5:06 PM)
May 22, 2007, 6:36 PM
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Re: [iamthewallress] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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iamthewallress wrote:
Why would you take 4 dozen cams on route with one or two placements if you knew that was the deal?
I wouldn't if I had an inkling in advance what those placements were. I'd rock the redpoint rack for sure. If, however, all I knew was that the route carried an X, I'd certainly load up for fear I wouldn't have the only piece I could get. (But I still wouldn't schlep 4 dozen cams. Who carries that much ever?)
Note: this is my pre accident information, neither my head nor my body is climbing at this level right now.
Average grade lead: 5.8-5.9 Hardest lead: 5.10a Length of pitches: local was ~80ft, but spent a lot of time in the Gunks.
I usually carry a single rack of cams (10 cams), 1 set of nuts (sometimes 2, or a few doubles), first 4 tri-cams, on limestone hexes. Things may be added or taken away per the climb, but that's my standard rack. If I think I need extra big peices then I'll grab my hexes too.
Slings: 8 single length, 2 double length, 2 revolver draws, 2 screamers. On longer climbs at the gunks I may grab a couple of my longer sport draws too, but its not typical.
May 22, 2007, 7:02 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.10b
Hardest trad lead: 5.11a
Typical length of pitches in your area: average 75ft/pitch (I think)
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
1.5 set of nuts (12 pieces) 1 set of micro nut 8 cams (5 RE Robots & 3 Alliens). 10 slings
Like others said, it's kinda area specific. I normally climb at Seneca but if I'm going to the New, I noticed nuts aren't being used as much and those cracks can suck up cams.
May 22, 2007, 7:11 PM
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Re: [j_ung] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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j_ung wrote:
iamthewallress wrote:
Why would you take 4 dozen cams on route with one or two placements if you knew that was the deal?
I wouldn't if I had an inkling in advance what those placements were. I'd rock the redpoint rack for sure. If, however, all I knew was that the route carried an X, I'd certainly load up for fear I wouldn't have the only piece I could get. (But I still wouldn't schlep 4 dozen cams. Who carries that much ever?)
He he, I totally should have left that r/x out of the poll description. While I've never undertaken an X rated route, I standardly do R routes (I like the thin stuff, especially if it's a bit slabby), and I totally agree with Jung- bring the micronuts and whatever else you might need to protect it if you know that the route is hard to protect (ie honeymoon chimney which I did a couple of weekends ago that needs big bros and is still scary!).
The point of the poll was not that you are climbing an r/x route, but that you carry a super light (anorexic) rack, please don't mistake my poor wording and the intent of the thread. 24 pieces of pro doesn't make you an anorexic rack climber.
But on the subject of "light" racks, maybe someone only take 10 pieces on a 100' route. Maybe someone would rather carry only a few pieces on a long route and run it out 30' on easy-ish terrain (5.7 or such). I dunno about you guys, but that is an "R" style route to me because of how the leader led it, even though the character of the route isn't R rated in nature.
Personally, if I'm doing multipitch, I automatically count out 6 pieces of pro for 2 anchor systems. For me, that leaves 20 pieces of gear for on the route which should be plenty for even a 200' route.
Anyway, thanks again for everyone who's posted! I've been enjoying seeing how my level of climbing, the pieces I find useful, where I climb/rock-type and all that stuff stacks up. I've already seen a couple things that I'll try changing up on my rack and see how I like them (seems like people tend to have a couple more cams... might try dropping the small hex and tri-cam and sub mid-sized cams and see how I like it, or "hard sizes" like Vegas pointed out-purple and green BD... on the other hand, the reason I carry one small hex is because some cracks take hexes so much better than cams... hmm). Some really good points by everyone.
May 22, 2007, 8:07 PM
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Re: [j_ung] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Jung-
Hey, couple questions for ya.
1. What 18 cams do you carry? what ones are doubles? 2. With your slung-long cams, do you have the runner stitched at the cable to hold the sewn part in place, or do you have the whole 18" runner free floating through the u-stem? do you ever have issues pulling the stitched part of the runner through the stem of the cam when you're un-trippling/extending the sling?
May 22, 2007, 9:04 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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psprings wrote:
Jung-
Hey, couple questions for ya.
1. What 18 cams do you carry? what ones are doubles? 2. With your slung-long cams, do you have the runner stitched at the cable to hold the sewn part in place, or do you have the whole 18" runner free floating through the u-stem? do you ever have issues pulling the stitched part of the runner through the stem of the cam when you're un-trippling/extending the sling?
Thanks! PS
Hmm, lessee... Standard single-pitch rack is this:
1: #00(gray) TCU #2-9: Doubles of 0(purple)-3(orange) TCU/Power Cams (one each in every size) 10: #4(red) TCU 11: #.5(purple) Camalot 12: #6(black) Power Cam 13: #.75(green) Camalot 14-15: 2x#1(red) Camalot 16: #8(l. blue) Power Cam 17: #3(blue) Camalot 18: #4(silver) Forged Friend
10 nuts that are a mix of DMM Wallnuts and Peanuts (I leave out the biggest sizes)
6 24" runners tripled as trad draws Two 17cm quick draws, which I save for anchors 1 nut tool, which I almost always forget to pack A cordalette and two lockers (but only if there is no anchor)
But like I mentioned before, this is what's normally in my pack, not necessarily what I carry up. I almost always leave out one or two cams, usually the biggest and/or smallest, and I often carry only 4 trad draws.
My wife and I own quadruples in almost every size, except the largest and smallest ones. Extras include one #5 pre-C4 Camalot (the biggest piece we own!) and a selection of Trango Flex Cams, C3s, Forged Friends and a few more Power Cams. Oh, also a single Max Cam, a lot more Wallnuts and BD Stoppers and double CAMP Tricams up to blue (#2?). We have pins and bolts, too, but we don't need to go there.
The 18" runners in the cams are free to rotate as they please. I learned early on to pull the loop with the bar tack when I need them extended.
For multi-pitch climbing, I generally add a few more spare biners and make sure to carry 6 runners.
May 22, 2007, 9:48 PM
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Re: [j_ung] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Y'all carry a lot of cams! Guess it depends on where you climb, but in most places, unless the crack is wide, I find I like to carry lots of nuts and fewer cams. The weight/number of pieces tradeoff is much better that way. And I'm not just climbing on easy stuff either. On one 5.10 180 foot pitch I once did in Red Rocks, the only good gear was nuts. After I ran out of slings, I started using the cams as slings. I started with the biggest (most useless on that pitch) cams, and worked my way down, until I got to the belay! They worked great - the weight of each cam helped keep that nut in place!
Plus, I've ripped enough small cams to know that they're only good for a hard fall if the placement is really superior. In many cases, if the rock is dirty, the placement is flaring, the rock is slightly chossy, or even if the rock parallel and hard but very slick - small cams will fly right out from a good fall. Placing a cam and yanking on it tells you nothing. You need to see that the rock is clean, the crystals are solid, the placement isn't flaring, and preferably at least one of the lobes is in a divot or constriction. Either that, or the fall factor must be pretty low.
Anyway, my point is, I carry a lot of pieces if you're just counting by numbers. But weight-wise, probably much less than many, because I typically only carry one set of cams, and then lots-o-nuts (up to 3 of some of the mid-size on long pitches).
Then again, I've also done 180 foot pitches that simply won't take more than a few nuts the whole damn way. So what the fuck do I know.
May 22, 2007, 11:11 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General Level of leading trad: 5.8 - 5.9
Hardest trad lead: 5.10b
Length of routes: 40 to 160 feet length pitches.
Gear: 11 cams: from .3 camalot to #2( 2x .75 ), #1&2 C3, Green and Yellow Alien. 15 BD nuts: from #4 to #11, #6, 7, 8 I like to have doubled even tripled. 4 tricams: 2 pink, 1 red, 1 brown. ( Gunks only )
12 trad draws: from foot long (RRG) to 3 foot long (Gunks)
May 22, 2007, 11:12 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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general: 5.7-5.10
Hardest: 5.10c
Length: Short as hell. 20-30 meters.
Gear: (28 pieces of pro) 16 cams (camalots 1-3 doubled, one .75, yellow and green Aliens, TCUs) Full set of BD nuts 3 tricams 6 draws other random bits of stuff
May 22, 2007, 11:13 PM
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Re: [hyhuu] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.9 - 5.10 alpine ratings D
Hardest trad lead: 5.10d D+
Typical length of pitches in your area: Multi-pitch
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: 1 set of DMM nuts optional 1 set of BD nuts ( I prefer the DMM) orange alien Camalot 0,5 2*0,75 2*1 2*2 3 4 optional another 0,5 another 3, a 3,5 or another 4 2 double length 6 shoulder length, 4 draws, 2 draws with a screamer 10 m of old rope for rappel (in some cases, hammer and a few pins in the bag)
gear I just bought: Hexes a set and a half pink to red tricam
my special gear that comes for special occasions: camalot 5 zero 1-6 (doubles and some triples)
gear i won't use anymore 2 aliens (till i test them camalot 0,1 0,2 0,3 0,4
May 23, 2007, 12:05 AM
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Re: [lemon_boy] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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lemon_boy wrote:
john,
i ran into a guy who climbed with you for a weekend this spring and he saie that you onsighted ruby's, is that true? if so, fck an a, nice work!
I can't claim that. I did climb it with one fall 2 times that day, but didn't redpoint it. I'm pretty sure I could come back and send it, I just avoid battle of the bulge when in ic. I did onsight Quarter of a Man that day, maybe he was confusing the two.
May 23, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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When I started leading trad 5.8-5.9ish stuff I had a rack of nuts and 2 pink and two red tricams
For a long pitch up to 12 cams and a rack of stoppers
Most of the time I size up the climb, Ditch the cams and stoppers I don't think I will need and climb.
for example on a 11c, 20meter fingercrack I sized it up. Racked 6 or so stoppers individually on quickdraws plus about 8 cams. 15 pieces!!! If that was a sport it would be a bolt ladder!!!
It was super well protected!! why carry more crap?
Another little 15m 11a fingercrack that I done many times I rack up w/ 2 stoppers #4 & #6 on draws two cams A #1 TCU an .5 camalot Its very well protected.
There is no point taking gear you know you will not/can not use. ( When cragging)
Rack smart
oh, as for R rated routes I avoid them!! This 15m 10d/11a route was protected by a poor tcu and a bolt Thankfully the only crux was at the bolt! but still... R = not pro
May 23, 2007, 1:54 AM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level about 5.8-5.9 now.
Hardest trad lead 12b.
typical pitch 80-100 feet around here. Gotta travel for the bigger stuff.
Gear: Around here (niagara escarpment) I'll carry two half sets of nuts (starting at about BD6 or rock 1ish maybe?) and anywhere from 6-10 cams depending on the route, usually in the .5 to 2 inch range, but sometimes up to 4 inches at fraggle. 3 or 4 tricams (sizes vary depending on route) sometimes some hexes, sometimes ballnuts, sometimes a bag of rocks if I'm feeling oldschool. buncha slings, buncha biners, buncha chalk.
I try to carry less than two dozen pieces usually, but if it's a route that's really giving me issues I'll take about 80 pieces and some aiders and show it whats what.
Largest rack I've ever seriously carried: 2 sets of nuts, 1 set micronuts, 1.5 sets of ballnuts, double cams from .5 to 4 inches, half set of tricams, set of cowbells. I was treading into unknown territory (for me anyways) in yosemite and actually used 95% of what I brought. Probably would have been 100% had I brought more water (I had to bail ).
May 23, 2007, 12:42 PM
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Re: [cracklover] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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cracklover wrote:
...
So what the fuck do I know.
GO
Your experience mirrors mine pretty closely. I placed more nuts in RR than anyplace else I've ever climbed. As for your perfect small-cam placements... God I love the NRG.
May 23, 2007, 1:02 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Around 2 dozen pieces, thou I do bring doubles.
General level of leading trad: 5.7-5.8
Hardest trad lead: 5.9 (I think)
Typical length of pitches in your area: 20 m
Gear: Standard rack: Wallnuts 1-10, doubles 3-6 = 14pieces Aliens Yellow and Red Friends #2.5 and #3
Hmm, that's only 18 pieces. Should I change my answer?
Extra gear that i bring on occassion: Green Alien Friends #2 and #4 Camalot Gold #2 and Red #4.5 Camp hexes size 5-8 HB Offset brassies (micronuts) size 3-6
May 23, 2007, 1:18 PM
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Re: [cracklover] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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cracklover wrote:
Y'all carry a lot of cams! Guess it depends on where you climb, but in most places, unless the crack is wide, I find I like to carry lots of nuts and fewer cams.
Same here. I'd like to buy some more cams this season, but ka-ching!
And Cathedral takes nuts like crazy, so I've never really needed lots of cams. Or if i did, I'd borrow from partners.
Lead 5.7-8
Hardest 5.10a
Rack 3 Trango tcus, 4 Metolius powercams 1 set of nuts with some doubling/tripling in key sizes. Probably 2 sets total
Pink tricam! A few more depending on the route
8 slings doubled as draws, maybe a few sport draws if the pitch is long.
Quad for bolts, equallete for natural anchors.
Funny how it feels like a hell of a lot more
That's a good idea about preslining cams long, J_ung, i might have to do that......
May 23, 2007, 3:02 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Totally new to this but here goes anyway - General level of leading trad: Gee - was that a 5.6 at the slips Peter?
Hardest trad lead: 5.6? (Guessing, it is not listed.
Typical length of pitches in your area: I haven't figured that out yet but have done up to a 300ft 3 pitch once, following. (Stoerts wall)
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: 1 set of BD nuts, 1 set of BD micro nuts, 1 set of BD Hexes. the set of 4 CAMP tri-cams and 1 ea of camalots .5, .75 1 and 2. And all my trad draws (9?) Like I said, just starting out and have only led 2 trad climbs and both of those were very easy climbs. It was all about learning gear placement but I am loving every minute of it and can't wait for more!
May 23, 2007, 6:11 PM
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Re: [barefoot_utah] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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barefoot_utah wrote:
Totally new to this but here goes anyway - General level of leading trad: Gee - was that a 5.6 at the slips Peter?
Thomas- Yay! You haven't been flamed on this thread yet! Yeah, I'm sure the 2 that you've done have both been 5.6, and fun ones to boot! And there's more where that came from :D We'll have to get out next week too.
May 23, 2007, 6:20 PM
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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angry wrote:
Sorry to split hairs, I just can't consider a route R/X based solely on poor rack choice or poverty.
Heh, actually, I think we're saying the same thing :D
If I followed a partner up an easy section, say, 30' of not putting gear in a very protectable yet easy section, I wouldn't call the route run out, but I might say to him at the top, "dude, you ran that out!" or "nice free-solo-looking-at-a-ground-fall-if-you-slipped-even-though-it-was-easy!".
You're right, the route isn't rated R or X. But if someone only places one piece in 70' of climbing, I'd say they are climbing it run-out or free-solo style. I do this sort of thing myself sometimes, just like you. Sometimes it's better to do it for rope drag, super-easy terrain, whatever. But I'm still "running it out" between pieces; that's all I'm saying. Some people take a rack that's small that feeds that type of style of climbing.
May 27, 2007, 11:49 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad:
5.8 - 5.10
Hardest trad lead:
5.12a
Typical length of pitches in your area:
30 feet to 60m multi-pitch climbs up to 3000+ feet long.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
Backcountry where I'm well below my limit: single set of stoppers, single set cams from green/yellow alien hybrid to #3.5 Friend size, #5 and #6 tricams, Rockcentrics from #3 to #8.
Otherwise, it depends. Bolt kit, Valley Giants, Ball Nutz, pins, Big Bros, slung horns, hooks... its all good.
Jun 7, 2007, 5:50 PM
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Re: [binrat] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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hmmmm i'll bite
general trad lead level: montana~ 5.9 wyo~ 5.4 (at our local crag there is not alot of higher end easy trad) hardest trad lead: 5.11 (once upon a time) typical length: 25-30 meters, quite a bit of multi pitch gear: i have faaarrrr too many nuts. but i got them very cheap, and am not concerned if i lose one. 4 hexes, in the larger sizes, some micros (from the aid days) a rack of stoppers, and five cams, 2 forged friends, 2 camalots, 1 trango flexcam.
I have always climbed with friends though, most who have 3 or sometimes 4 full racks of cams, nuts, stoppers, the whole nine yards. this is the summer to build up the trad rack, though. where i am at now, i have a tendency to take most of it with me, even on the easier stuff, mostly because i want the option of sewing something up, rather than not having the option. i have no problem showing up to anchors with even 3/4s of my gear left on my harness. i have a tendency to run it out on easier stuff. one of my favorite climbs, bruce's crack, is a 5.6 and i think i put in 5 pieces yesterday in the 25 meters, not including the fixed nut. i dunno. it's all subjective.
Jun 7, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Re: [cracklover] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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cracklover wrote:
j_ung wrote:
As for your perfect small-cam placements... God I love the NRG.
Yeah? I guess I really gotta get there someday.
GO
I just wanted to reinforce what j_ung said- I remember plugging in my Z5 on a corner in NRG and it being the most solid piece on the route, despite being the smallest by far. gotta love the nuttall!
Jun 7, 2007, 8:24 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I'm just beginning to climb trad. Probably 6 months now give or take.
My general level = 5.7 - 5.8+
Hardest trad lead = 5.9+
Typical pitch length = ~100ft give or take (Red River Gorge)
I typically carry way more than I need since I'm still getting accustomed to plugging gear and would rather have too much than not enough. That being said, I typically carry:
Full set of Metolius (with doubles in TCUs) BD C4 # .75 - 3 Double set of nuts Largest 4 Rockcentrics 8-10 Dynemma trad draws 2 - 48" slings with biners for slinging trees, horns, etc... 1 - 48" sling tied into a sliding-X with limiter knots for the anchors (many of which are bolted around here)
I also have a #4 and #5 C4 that I'll carry if the route demands it.
Jun 7, 2007, 8:47 PM
Post #69 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General Level of leading trad: 5.10
Hardest trad lead: 5.10c
Length of routes: 40 meters or so? Almost everything in this town to lead on gear is 5.10 though...
Gear: I've got more gear than I'll ever use. I've got: Aliens: black through Orange, including the gray and gold, x2 red; 9 cams BD: camalots .1-4.5 (.1-.4 old style, 4.5 old style; 5 cams), .5-4 C4, X2 #1; 7 cams. BD total: 12 Wild Country: Forged Friends, 2.5-4, doubles in 2.5 and 4; 6 cams. Tech Friends: 5 and 6; 2 cams. Zeros: Gray and Blue. WC total: 10 cams Metolius: #'s 7-10, 4 cams.
plus one link cam, #2
Cam total: 36
I've got a full set of Metolius curved nuts, a full set of rocks (1-10), a set of ultralight rocks (1-6), micro rocks, a half set of astro nuts (1-5) and a #13 BD nut I bootied (36 nuts)
I've also got a full set of Metolius Hexes, BD hexes, #'s 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, with doubles in 6 and 10, triples of 9; 32 hexes.
I've also got 2 pink tricams, a red, brown and purple; 5 tricams.
I'm a gear whore.
When I"m on lead, I usually end up taking what I think I'll need. I NEVER take everything. I'd say my average rack contains: a set of nuts, a few hexes (middle sizes) or cams. I like to lead on passive, but there's at least one route here that seems to reject passive gear...
General 5.4-5.8+ Hardest 5.9+ Length around 30 meters (per pitch) Climb at Devils Lake Wi. Slippery quartz so cams like to walk so I avoid using them at all costs. Or Southern Illinois where I wish i had more cams.
Gear: 1 set of BD nuts with a double of #6 (the most useful one) and two random wallnuts i bought on sale. 1 set of BD hexes Power Cams 7 and 8 (sometimes 5 and 6, depends on if my friend left them on my rack or not) Pink Tricam. (sometimes red for same reason as above)
Usually use the whole set of nuts and Hexes when leading at Devils lake...but when im in southern illinois i rarely use hexes and borrow cams from a friend. Usually carry 6 trad draws and 5 sport draws, i cant afford 5 more of either one...so i use both kids for sport and trad.
Jul 9, 2007, 3:22 PM
Post #71 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad:
5.8
Hardest trad lead:
5.9
Typical length of pitches in your area:
20 - 40m
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: I'm not much into active cams. Set of nuts and tricams 0.5 - 2, double first two. Quickdraws. Of course can't go to very wide crag with those but there isn't too many around anyways. If I can't do it with those, I have to practice more...
Jul 12, 2007, 7:38 PM
Post #72 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.10
Hardest trad lead: 5.10d Jah Man on Sister Superior - 5 stars!
Typical length of pitches in your area: Don't have an area right now :(
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: Don't have one Desert rack: 20 or so stoppers, Aliens blue to red, double set of Camelots .5 to 3. Double the Aliens and Camelots if going to Indian Creek Crag rack: same stoppers, same Aliens, single set of Camelots, I'll pare it down or up if I can see all my placements Alpine rack: same stoppers, tri-cams pink to blue, same Aliens, double set of Camelots(if car-to-car and short approach), single set of Camelots plus hexes 7-10(if long approach or back country) I'll add Big-bro's or larger Camelots to any of the above if there are off-width pitches
Jul 14, 2007, 7:35 AM
Post #73 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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First off, the poll makes no sense, what so ever. Generally, though those who climb harder "trad" own bigger racks, the routes and personnal pref, have more to do with what goes on the rack for a given climb/pitch. -I've taken more stuff on 1 pitch Indian creek leads than we did on the nose.
General level of leading trad: -above 12a only on special occasions, these days
Hardest trad led: -13
Typical length of pitches in your area: -I travel and have no area; 30-200'
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: -no standard rack, shy away from nuts unless needed and generally carry less than 24 cams, unless needed, took about ten peices (plus slings) on the DNB, Astroman etc
Oct 9, 2007, 3:11 PM
Post #76 of 81
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Re: [forkliftdaddy] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.9-5.11
Hardest trad lead: 11c
Typical length of pitches in your area: 120ft
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: As light as I can, normally never more the 24 pieces. In the flatirons Ill go with 1/2 set of nuts a few tri-cams and maybe 4-6 cams, theres just not that much gear anyway. "Light is Right" you can't climb hard grades with too much extra stuff. Nothing wrong with running it out plus "leader must not fal,l" anyway right?
Oct 9, 2007, 7:18 PM
Post #77 of 81
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Re: [krusher4] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.6-5.8
Hardest trad lead: 5.8+/5.9-
Typical length of pitches in your area: 35 ft
Gear: at least 1 set of the 4 smallest tricams (2 sets is better) tcus blue through red(aliens or c3s would also work) camalots #1-#3 a few 24" slings 1-2 48" a few small/med nuts/hexes
Oct 15, 2007, 2:31 PM
Post #78 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.10b/c
Hardest trad lead: 5.11-
Typical length of pitches in your area: 30-120ft.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
My standard take anywhere rack
set of nuts #3-13 (plus a few doubles in mid range, maybe 15 pieces total) aliens blue, green, yellow, 2 red Metolius blue, yellow, orange, red Camalots green, 2 red, 2 gold, blue 8-12 draws
for small cracks, I might add green C3, grey and purple Metolius, and Superlights for larger cracks, Camalots 3.5 and up, as needed
I may modify depending on length of route, difficulty of route, and how much I know about it.
Oct 19, 2007, 4:12 PM
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Re: [furrymurry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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general level 5.6 to 5.10 totally depends. hard climbs that I have wired I carry just what I need and get to the anchors with just enough stuff to build the belay. Places like cannon where I will be climbing 60 meter pitches I carry a pretty big rack with up to 17 slings/draws and a screamer. The quantity and type of gear that i carry up a climb totally depends on the area, style and dificulty of the climbing as well as my advance knowelge or lack thereof of what I will need.
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