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correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Poll: correlating level of trad lead and rack size
less than 2 dozen pieces of pro (I love running it out and r/x routes) 14 / 13%
around 2 dozen pieces of pro (I hate bringing duplicates) 36 / 33%
around 30 pieces of pro or more (I'm a seamstress; I live zippering, sewing, and turning free leads into aid/free combos) 30 / 27%
it depends (I'm sporadic and never ever carry a standard rack that works for "most routes" 30 / 27%
110 total votes
 

krusher4


Oct 9, 2007, 3:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
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General level of leading trad: 5.9-5.11

Hardest trad lead: 11c

Typical length of pitches in your area: 120ft

Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: As light as I can, normally never more the 24 pieces. In the flatirons Ill go with 1/2 set of nuts a few tri-cams and maybe 4-6 cams, theres just not that much gear anyway. "Light is Right" you can't climb hard grades with too much extra stuff. Nothing wrong with running it out plus "leader must not fal,l" anyway right?


xjlx


Oct 9, 2007, 7:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
Posts: 122

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General level of leading trad: 5.6-5.8

Hardest trad lead: 5.8+/5.9-

Typical length of pitches in your area: 35 ft

Gear:
at least 1 set of the 4 smallest tricams (2 sets is better)
tcus blue through red(aliens or c3s would also work)
camalots #1-#3
a few 24" slings 1-2 48"
a few small/med nuts/hexes


blueeyedclimber


Oct 15, 2007, 2:31 PM
Post #78 of 81 (646 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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General level of leading trad: 5.10b/c

Hardest trad lead: 5.11-

Typical length of pitches in your area: 30-120ft.

Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:

My standard take anywhere rack

set of nuts #3-13 (plus a few doubles in mid range, maybe 15 pieces total)
aliens blue, green, yellow, 2 red
Metolius blue, yellow, orange, red
Camalots green, 2 red, 2 gold, blue
8-12 draws

for small cracks, I might add green C3, grey and purple Metolius, and Superlights
for larger cracks, Camalots 3.5 and up, as needed

I may modify depending on length of route, difficulty of route, and how much I know about it.

Josh


shrug7


Oct 15, 2007, 3:01 PM
Post #79 of 81 (636 views)
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Registered: Oct 18, 2006
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] correlating level of trad lead and rack size [In reply to]
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General 5.6 - 5.8+
Hardest lead 5.9

Typical length : 30-90 feet

Standard rack:
Metolious #1 #4(x2)
BD C4s .4, .5(x2), .75(x2), 1(x2), 2, 3(x2), 4
BD C3s
Stoppers #3-13
OP Linkcam #2
12 draws various lengths from 12" - 48"

And depending on the route, I like to use (borrow) tricams, ballnutz and bro's from other folks when I can.


furrymurry


Oct 19, 2007, 1:49 PM
Post #80 of 81 (581 views)
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Registered: Sep 6, 2004
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General: 5.10+

Hardest: 5.11

typical length: i climb all over... 30 meters (doesn't particularly affect my rack unless in the Creek)

Gear: BD .5, .75, 1, 2, 3
CCH Aliens green, blue, yellow, grey, red
BD stoppers #4-13


tradmanclimbs


Oct 19, 2007, 4:12 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599

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general level 5.6 to 5.10 totally depends. hard climbs that I have wired I carry just what I need and get to the anchors with just enough stuff to build the belay. Places like cannon where I will be climbing 60 meter pitches I carry a pretty big rack with up to 17 slings/draws and a screamer. The quantity and type of gear that i carry up a climb totally depends on the area, style and dificulty of the climbing as well as my advance knowelge or lack thereof of what I will need.

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