Hi all, I made a search and didn't find anything so here it goes: I am really good at lock-offs but suck at dynos and dynamic moves, they don't have to be huge dynos, I suck anyway. Is there a way to train to get better at dynamic moves, is there a secret out there I don't know about? It really drains you to do a static move to that pocket when it would be so much better to get dynamically to it...thanks in advance for your help.

Dynos are for Fairies.

Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno.

Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.

Dynos are for Fairies.


Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno.


Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.

After that try to do it blind folded( Its scary).

Dynos are for Fairies.

Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno.

Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.

A great Troll or a complete fucking idiot--good entertainment either way.

Curt

MOST dynos are just flashy and could have been done statically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you HAD to dyno.

MOST static moves are inefficient and could be* done dynamically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you'd want to static a move if you could do it dynamically.

Jay

*I just couldn't make myself mimic the poor grammar here.

Bullshit, Dynos are ususally done by climbers who lack good technique. They're a trick for egotistical strongmen, and nothing more.

You hardly ever see Lynn Hill dyno.

wow, YAY!! go you!!! King of the internet, whew. I hope I never make that mistake again but if I do, I know Jay will be here to save the day.

That and your head is in your ass if you actually believe what you wrote about dynamic moves.

If you maintain that attitude toward dynos, you will not progress much beyond easy 5.11 sport climbing; and if you maintain that attitude toward people, you might not progress much beyond adolescence.

Jay

Right on, maybe someday I'll make it to the mentality of a sophmoric teenager who thinks he knows everything! Just like our grammar nazi friend!

And are you saying that you regularly dyno on 13's when you're leading trad?

Man, what a typical RC asshole.

wow, YAY!! go you!!! King of the internet, whew. I hope I never make that mistake again but if I do, I know Jay will be here to save the day.

That and your head is in your ass if you actually believe what you wrote about dynamic moves.

Bullshit, Dynos are ususally done by climbers who lack good technique.

Hi all, I made a search and didn't find anything so here it goes: I am really good at lock-offs but suck at dynos and dynamic moves, they don't have to be huge dynos, I suck anyway. Is there a way to train to get better at dynamic moves, is there a secret out there I don't know about? It really drains you to do a static move to that pocket when it would be so much better to get dynamically to it...thanks in advance for your help.

In response to the static/dynamic argument:
Static moves are better for climbers physically in the long run, so it's better to tend towards them.

Readers Digest Version:


Random guy wants to Train for Dynos

Shu trolls some people who are new to the introweb

Curt chimes in. He's climbed with Gill, I think its safe to say that Dynamic movement has a place in climbing.

JT512 does some chest thumping


Did I miss anything?

hi, I have th same problem. the only thing I havr seen a noticeable difference doing is jumping for something to small to catch and trying to lock it off from catching with on hand. That isjumping from the ground

Apparently you missed the point that dynamic moves are more efficient than static moves and so dynamic movement should be preferred over static movement, not the other way around. Static moves are for people who haven't learned to climb dynamically, not the reverse. Obviously that's an over-generalization, but maybe it'll get somebody to think.

Jay

I guess that a powerful climber with a strong pelvic girdle will dyno, while a thin climber with strong fingers and a high mass/power rate will lock". I lock.

I have a problem of definition here : is there a difference in the English climbing terminology between dynos and dynamic movements?

Another question : should dynos be preferred to static moves when both are possible? The underlying question would be "what kind of moves require less energy and keep the climber more stable"?

In climbing, a static move is one that is made without using momentum to reach the hold. In a static move you are in complete control of the entire move. You can stop at any point in the move. A dynamic move, by definition, uses momentum to reach the hold. You do not control the entire move, but rather, use the lower body to generate momentum to help you reach the hold. You can't stop at every point in the middle of a dynamic move. Newton's Law of Inertia guarantees this. Dynamic moves range from deadpoints, in which you might pop the hips directly toward the wall to give you time to stab a hand at a hold, to all-points-off dynos. The word "dyno" is usually reserved for dynamic moves initiated with bursts of power from the lower body.

That is why static moves are more efficient in the climber's sense of the word: it's not that they require less energy per se, but less energy from the muscles in which conservation of energy is important.

Thanks for the developed definition, Jay.


Didn't you mean dynamic?

Now, once you're convinced that dynamic climbing is superior to static climbing, you realize that there are a lot of moves that you are forced to do statically, because the finishing hold is "too small" or something. Then, you have to realize that whether you can do moves to small holds dynamically is a function of your skill level, and that that skill level can be improved. That should motivate you to work on your dynamic climbing, so that you can do a greater percentage of your moves dynamically.

Jay

Skill level, but also contact strenght and body tension Jay!!!

Readers Digest Version:

Random guy wants to Train for Dynos

Shu trolls some people who are new to the introweb

Curt chimes in. He's climbed with Gill, I think its safe to say that Dynamic movement has a place in climbing.

JT512 does some chest thumping


Did I miss anything?

Contact strength and body tension are part of "skill level."

There are two articles on 8a.nu discussing static vs dynamic moves:

http://www.8a.nu/...FArticleId%3D1288%26
http://www.8a.nu/...FArticleId%3D3234%26

It seems that world competition climbers prefer static moves. What do you think about it?

for contrast, please watch videos of bouldering competitions and note how often they use dynamic moves.

so-so

I do train a lot indeed, and I expecially train those two things campus boarding, but I find that thinking things that way might be misleading...

getting phisically stronger doesn't automatically mean getting more skilled.
Otherwise everyone could start his personal campus board obsession, get strong enough to do 1-4-7 on monos and 1-5-9 on two fingers, fly to frankenjura and send "action directe" in a matter of days...

Contact strength and body tension are part of "skill level."

To update, add: JT512 is right and a lot of people agree with him.

No I still think "skill level" covers all bases including strength, technique, and mental aspects of climbing. It's essentially having the whole package, all inclusive. You're talking about skill level like it's the same as technique, but I think technique is a subcategory of skill level. Skill is the "ability to do something well" which for climbing often requires a certain amount of strength, technique, mental capacity, etc.

I would say that sport-specific strength is a component of technique. In fact I would say that sport-specific strength is something of a misnomer, and that in a sport there is only technique-specific strength. For instance, dynoing is a technique. To dyno well (ie, to be skillful at dynoing) requires strength in certain muscles, timing, balance, etc. Heel hooking is a technique. To be good at heel hooking you need strength in certain muscles, intermuscular coordination, balance, etc. And so on. So, there is no strength-technique dichotomy. Strength is a component of technique.

Jay

Bullshit, Dynos are ususally done by climbers who lack good technique. They're a trick for egotistical strongmen, and nothing more. You hardly ever see Lynn Hill dyno.

Well, since I have actually climbed with Lynn Hill, I'll let you in on a little secret: Lynn is a master of dynamic climbing technique. Please tell me how your climbing experiences with Lynn led you to a different conclusion. Thanks in advance for the additional clarity.

Curt

I would say that sport-specific strength is a component of technique. In fact I would say that sport-specific strength is something of a misnomer, and that in a sport there is only technique-specific strength. For instance, dynoing is a technique. To dyno well (ie, to be skillful at dynoing) requires strength in certain muscles, timing, balance, etc. Heel hooking is a technique. To be good at heel hooking you need strength in certain muscles, intermuscular coordination, balance, etc. And so on. So, there is no strength-technique dichotomy. Strength is a component of technique.

Jay

Dynos are cool and look impressive but will actually ware you out faster than a static move. you should try to work on your static moves first and build strength and that will make you a better climber all around. But all in all if your going for that Dynamic move just commit!

-getting specific strenght doesn't mean you get specific technique.
-not getting some technique doesn't necessairily mean that you lack specific strenght. Ie I could have everything I need to dyno and still suck at it because I'm scared.

-building specific strenght to improve some specific technique is often the fastest way around a problem/move/route, but not always.
Sometimes working out a different beta works better.

If you had everything you needed to dyno you wouldn't be scared, that's part of the technique needed to perform the skill.


Working out a move using different beta requires a different skill, therefore a different technique is used.

Working out a move using different beta requires a different skill, therefore a different technique is used.

But if one looks at it from the sending point of view, one should be open to different techniques and possibilities, and care about getting the most from his current potential.
Even if this means going static where everyone else dynos.
Or, on the contrary, dynoing where everyone else does some clever move that's way too complicated for you.

if someone already has the body compostition to be able to do a dyno, then it makes more sense for them to dyno more often, and vice versa

@ mrturner

read carefully these lines by jackattack.
they explain my point.

the "efficiency" of a certain technique (be it dynoing, drop-kneeing, whatever) is not an absolute thing, it depends on the situation and it depends on the climber

Thank you all guys for your comments, I am sorry I did not reply sooner but I dont have a in front of the computer job (english teacher for proffesionals - in Spain) and I cannot check rockclimbing.com so often.

[..]

Thanks again and if you have more tips, keep them coming!

I have a tip: Don't admit that you are an English teacher in a sentence that is ungrammatical, poorly punctuated, and contains a misspelled word.

Jay

they also say that as an evolving climber it's better to put emphasis in learnin dynos and developing finger strenght, because they're the most difficult things...while on the contrary, you can get more big-muscle power pretty easily whenever you need it.