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the importance of anchors

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redneck

Sep 30, 2008, 3:23 AM
Post #26 of 37 (1476 views)
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Registered: Jul 18, 2008
Posts: 17

Re: [sungam] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

i actually was with a teacher.

taydude

Sep 30, 2008, 3:25 AM
Post #27 of 37 (1474 views)
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Registered: May 25, 2006
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Re: [redneck] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sounds like a bad way to setup a single strand rappel. I'd do something that's harder to mess up like an overhand on a bight w/ a carabiner through it.

sungam

Sep 30, 2008, 3:41 AM
Post #28 of 37 (1466 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Re: [redneck] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

redneck wrote:

i actually was with a teacher.

He failed.

suilenroc

Sep 30, 2008, 1:39 PM
Post #29 of 37 (1447 views)
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Registered: Nov 13, 2006
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Re: [sungam] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

are you saying the ground was the "teacher"?

sungam

Sep 30, 2008, 2:10 PM
Post #30 of 37 (1438 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Re: [suilenroc] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Me? No, I'm saying that if your teaching someone and that person messes up, and you don't catch it, it's on you.

chossmonkey

Sep 30, 2008, 2:30 PM
Post #31 of 37 (1427 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [shimanilami] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

shimanilami wrote:

redneck wrote:

this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.

Let me make sure I understand this correctly. You set up a top-rop anchor, went to rappel off of it, it failed and you fell 15 feet.

15 feet.

You were setting up a top-rope anchor for a climb 15 feet tall.

And then you went to rap off it.

And your anchor failed.

And you fell 15 feet.

I am speechless.

You are obviously lacking comprehension skillz 2.

granite_grrl

Sep 30, 2008, 6:44 PM
Post #32 of 37 (1372 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [taydude] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

taydude wrote:

sounds like a bad way to setup a single strand rappel. I'd do something that's harder to mess up like an overhand on a bight w/ a carabiner through it.

Well, he did pretty much the same thing, just replace the overhand with a clove hitch. Not a bad overall setup, but maybe not the best choice instead of a knot.

I am curious why a clove hitch is used in canyonering instead of a knot. Loading and untying issues?

billcoe_

Sep 30, 2008, 8:50 PM
Post #33 of 37 (1326 views)
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694

Re: [redneck] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

redneck wrote:

i did just mis-tie the clove hitch and had no knot inspecter.

How do I hire me one of those?

tradrenn

Oct 14, 2008, 12:27 AM
Post #34 of 37 (1218 views)
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [shockabuku] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Dude this thread is hilarious.

(This post was edited by tradrenn on Oct 14, 2008, 12:40 AM)

Johnny_Fang

Oct 14, 2008, 12:42 AM
Post #35 of 37 (1208 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 289

Re: [tradrenn] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

tradrenn wrote:

Dude this thread is hilarious.

i can't believe no one has called troll. ya'll are off your game.

aerili

Oct 14, 2008, 4:58 AM
Post #36 of 37 (1171 views)
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Registered: Jan 13, 2006
Posts: 1166

Re: [redneck] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Canyoneers typically set up their rappels on one strand of a rope only. They often use biner blocks with lockers as redneck described. Clove hitches are easier to untie after loading than knot blocks.

Many canyoneering rappels require dropping more than half the length of the rope or actually rappelling OFF the end of the rope (into water); thus, the reason for single strand raps with a retrieval set-up attached to your harness. Also, it makes for much better rope management and less re-coiling time between raps if they use a single strand + a rope bag technique together. Also, having two ends of a rope in moving water can become a clusterfuck quickly.

Canyoneers do a lot of things that climbers find sketchy. I doubt this thread is a troll.

Canyoneers rap off single anchor points all the time.

Canyoneers typically use only lockers however, and not regular biners. So when they see us climbers using regular biners for pro all the time, they think WE are the sketchy ones! Shocked

redneck wrote:

as for what the anchor consisted of, it was two hangers with brand new webbing and a rap ring.

This ^^ sounds like a really good rap anchor for a canyoneer!

jmvc

Oct 14, 2008, 11:32 AM
Post #37 of 37 (1135 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647

Re: [aerili] the importance of anchors [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

aerili wrote:

Canyoneers rap off single anchor points all the time.

Indeed, I remember going on a "easy safe canyon" and being asked to rap of a single bolt.. I found leaning off the edge unamusing.

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