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Gmburns2000
Aug 4, 2010, 2:01 PM
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hey, happy birthday gail! glad to hear it was a good night!
I'm hoping to get back down there in the next couple of weeks (I miss my shoes!!!  ). Going to get out climbing for the first time since I got sick a couple of weeks ago. Heading to Rumney for a day trip. We'll see how that goes, but I'm looking forward to getting something done.
I'm kind of lacking partners at the moment, though, so if you're there for a week during the week then I'd love to come down and climb for a few days after you're back from Lancaster. Let me know.
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gblauer
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Aug 4, 2010, 2:11 PM
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Just PM me when you know, I can try and take some weekdays off. I think I should be able to do it...and I would love to climb wtih you.
So glad you are feeling better.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 4, 2010, 2:24 PM
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OK, will do. I think I'm pretty free after next week.
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johnwesely
Aug 4, 2010, 2:44 PM
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Has Michael led Road Warrior yet?
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gblauer
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Aug 4, 2010, 3:02 PM
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Yes and No. He pre-placed gear, but he bailed right at the crux, so he has to try again.
I think we are climbing again on Saturday, but, I think we are focusing on volume rather than difficulty.
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mojomonkey
Aug 4, 2010, 4:14 PM
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Happy belated birthday Gail! Glad you are able to climb so well with those inserts.
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gblauer
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Aug 5, 2010, 1:52 AM
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Thanks Doug. I do pay a price...I can no longer wear regular shoes or even clogs. I am now in "rocker" shoes. Every night I wake up with shooting pains in my feet and who knows what permanent damage I am dong to my sesamoid bones.
Whatever, at least I can climb.
Hopelessly addicted,
Gail
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johnwesely
Aug 5, 2010, 2:43 AM
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gblauer wrote: Yes and No. He pre-placed gear, but he bailed right at the crux, so he has to try again. I think we are climbing again on Saturday, but, I think we are focusing on volume rather than difficulty.
He will definitely get it.
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donald949
Aug 6, 2010, 11:38 PM
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Got out climbing again, but still having issues.
On my last little adventure, I had to deal with working late, exploded tanker trucks, bad traffic, late night arrival, full campgrounds, and one no show partner.
This trip went better, but we're still having issues.
The plan was to hit Dome Rock in the Southern Sierras for some easy multi pitch trad fun. But then the Southern Sierras caught on fire. After some thought, we decided to go elsewhere, Courtright Reservoir. Unfortunately, its 2 1/2 hours further from my house. Fortunately, our wives gave us an extra day off for the trip. Still, it ended up being a 7 hour drive each way.
Day One, Spring Dome.
We scouted the rock Sun evening, and found the routes shown in the guide. As well as several shoes, but thats another story.
First thing I jump on "Southern Ca Drill Team", rated 5.4, and sport bolted. I take a couple of cams, as I'm not sure how the route finishes. I clip the plentiful bolts as the route heads up, and come to a groove/ramp headed right. There is an anchor off to the left, but a large step across the groove to the face. But nothing off to the right. The anchor is well above the last bolt, and the grove is actually tricky to get gear in, I find a place for #4 FCU (although a #5 might have worked better, take both), step up across the groove on to the face and finish at the anchor, 120 feet. Finishing that way was probably 5.6. Interesting "Sport Route." Otherwise, I have no idea where the route was supposed to finish. My partner follows, cleans and brings up the second rope. We TR under the anchor and cool off in between climbs in the shade. And swat flies. Hundreds of flies.
The clipping and TR'ing was fun, but we were looking forward to climbing to the top of something. I decided to climb to the summit following a crack off to the right of the anchor. I climb to the anchor and bring up Tim. Then set off up the crack. Which certainly wasn't heavily traveled, with a fair bit of moss and lichen. It goes easy and the gear is adequate for the difficulty. But certainly not sewn up. I reach the lone bolt I saw from the anchor, but its another big step up and across a crack to clip. The crack takes a #5 stopper nicely, but it was a long way back to the last gear. I get a #3 stopper in right next to the cross over move as back up, and notice the bolt is a button head. Thinking about then that it is probably a good idea to have that extra piece in. Well, the big step went easy, clip the bolt, and head up. And up, and up, no harder than 5.3, but few spots for gear. The few spots there were, were for cams, and I wanted to save for the anchor. I find a spot to anchor and get my last cams in, #5 FCU good, #1 good, and #2 poor. Tim followed, and I have him look around for a bolted anchor to rap off of. Given the number of sport bolted, ie closely spaced, routes it was strange to see only the one bolted anchor, at P1, on the rock. Walked off to the east.
Day Two, Trapper Dome.
The first route you come across as you approach, is a featureless low angle ramp facing east. It has the sport bolted "Drill Instructor", 5.4. Which is E facing and the sun is just blasting off of. The rock turns a corner S and gets stepper. I look around, and the rock below us is in shade. We set up a TR for that, from where we're at, and lower in a climb up. Tim sends it pretty quick, but mentions the start is pretty tough. I lower in and immediately notice the tough start. Small edges for the feet, and smaller edges for the hands. From there you move to sloppers for the right hand and foot. If you can stick those, the left hand can move up to a descent hold, and get the left foot up. Then you follow a left trending crack ramp up the face. After several false starts I pull through it. Reading the guide later, its "The Cradle Will Rock" and goes at 10+. Maybe, as I don't climb that hard to say for sure, but once you pull through the couple of moves its fairly easy.
I decide that the one route I'm looking at next is "Tao" 5.7. The bolting is not quite sport, but looks good. I rack some draws and head up. It's sustained but goes fine, untill I get to the last bolt. There are two anchors seen from there. One 10 feet up and 10 feet to the right, across a groove to a face. The other a fair bit higher, but following the groove line up and to the left a little. I start following the groove line up, and up, and up again. I didn't bring any gear, but could have used a cam for a small slot in the groove about half way up. Otherwise, no other real good spots for gear. But not carrying any I didn't bother to stop to look for some, just focus and gun for the top. Clip lockers into the chain links and "TAKE". Breath. Ok, that looks like 40-50 feet of runnout, Ok I'm good. Start to lower, and look down. Hmm, this is well over 100 feet, what to do. From the top bolt I decide to climb up and over the groove to the other anchor, no problem. Should have done that in the first place. Tim cleans and lowers, I rap from the top of "Drill Instructor". Get a drink and catch my breath. Since the rope is hanging, we TR "Drill Instructor" and call it a day. The rock is nearly featureless, with no obvious hand or foot holds, but so low angle you just put your foot anywhere and run up.
Day Three.
Well the plan was to pack up and head over to one or two more quick routes on Trapper and drive home. However, once we were packed up, the mighty Sub won't crank. Ah crud. Apparently leaving the doors open for so long while camping killed the old battery. Sigh. The guy in the next site gave us jump, thank you very much, but what to do. The 4 minute drive wouldn't charge the battery. Tim notes that we can make it home and across LA before evening traffic, if we leave right away. And so it was decided.
Overall, another fairly successful trip, but not without its challenges. Such appears to be my lot.
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donald949
Aug 6, 2010, 11:41 PM
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Well, the camera is having "performance issues." The pics are a bit blurry and I'm not posting them. Also, I'm headed out of town, so I only trimmed a little from the above TR. Hopefully it reads fine.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 7, 2010, 1:19 AM
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some people are disasters to climb with, you're a disaster to travel with. 
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Gmburns2000
Aug 9, 2010, 2:12 PM
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Short and sweet new post: The Body Fights Back.
First day climbing since being sick. Went to Rumney.
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johnwesely
Aug 9, 2010, 2:54 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Short and sweet new post: The Body Fights Back. First day climbing since being sick. Went to Rumney.
I am glad you are getting back on the rocks.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 9, 2010, 3:45 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Short and sweet new post: The Body Fights Back. First day climbing since being sick. Went to Rumney. I am glad you are getting back on the rocks.
thanks, me too, although I'll admit that while yesterday was a good day, I am WIPED today.
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johnwesely
Aug 9, 2010, 5:44 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Short and sweet new post: The Body Fights Back. First day climbing since being sick. Went to Rumney. I am glad you are getting back on the rocks. thanks, me too, although I'll admit that while yesterday was a good day, I am WIPED today.
Use this as a time of reflection.
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 9, 2010, 6:34 PM
Post #317 of 1159
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Glad you are up and climbing again.
I spent Friday, Saturday and Sunday at the Gunks; three gorgeous days.
Friday I took Bett out for some leading, after studying the guide book I selected several 5.3 leads for Bett:
P1 Updraft, long corner climb, no route finding, a distinct crux, rings and slings on a tree for an anchor, plenty of opportunity for gear anchor as well
P1 Andrew, not great gear, but enough. Nice corner climbing, no route finding, rings and slings on a tree for an anchor
P1-P3 Easy V, Nice corner climb, Arrow bolts or plenty of opportunity for a gear anchor. P3 has a very different type of 5.3 crux, requires thoughful climbing.
P2 of Middle Earth.
Arrow...(For me)
Bett did an awesome job on every lead. She is easily cruising the threes and I think she can take on some fours. She is 65 years old and decided to start leading 6 weeks ago. She has an amazing lead head and I think she is a much better climber as a leader than a follower. We finished Friday's session on the third pitch of Bombs Away Dream Baby...a very cool 5.8, with less than adequate pro at the crux. YOu have pro about 4 feet below the crux, you have to get up to the crux (kind of tricky climbing) and then reaaaaach for the jug (for a shorty) and pull through the jugs to a stance before you can get in any more gear. It's dirty, but nice. I guess it's not done very often because of the lack of gear opportunities.
On Saturday we stayed in the Uberfall; it was PACKED! We started early:
1) Eyebrow, a meandering alpine like climb. So so, not great
2) Double Chin, tricky exit move at the top, harder than the 5.5 grade
3) Three laps up Restribution (clean)
4) Nosedive (would have been clean,but, I had a to clear a nut that the leader fell on...I needed two hands and a rock to pull the nut)
5) Apoplexy, easy run, but, I would never lead it (at least right now. Too much committment to get through the thin spots for me. Hell, I hate the start of Horseman!!!)
6) Fancy Idiot, this is an ok climb. NOthing special. Not worth doing.
We finished early, I wanted to be home in time for MItch to arrive from "summer camp" and go to the pig races at the Ulster COunty Fair. Turns out Mitch didn't get home until 7, we bolted through dinner and got to the fair just in time for the races. My pig lost and I didn't get a ribbon.
Mitch and I intended to get out of bed early on Sunday, but that didn't happen. We hit the cliff at 10 and we only had a 1/2 day to climb. I had to get home, my 21 year old daughter Emma was throwing a LARGE pool party at the house in Wayne and I was afraid the neighbors would call the police. Yes, they called and the police came. The police said "carry on" until the 9PM noise ordinance takes effect. Ha ha...the neighbors suck and they got NO satisfaction. The Band turned the speakers to the offending neighbor's house and played even louder.
We did easy peasy stuff:
1) Dennis
2) Belly Roll, would SOMEONE please tell me where to find the 5.4 move off the ledge? It always seems SOOO much harder to me. I have lead a couple of gunks 9s and this move feels harder!
3) Classic, I finally did the 2nd pitch ...it's kind of fun. Juggy, happy climbing. Not sure why I missed that before.
Alas, we had to leave, but, Sunday was great and I really felt joyful as I climbed...it's been a while since I felt that good.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 9, 2010, 6:41 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Aug 9, 2010, 6:58 PM
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Sorry to hear your pig lost, but how did it taste afterward?
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gblauer
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Aug 9, 2010, 7:05 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Sorry to hear your pig lost, but how did it taste afterward?
Ha ha...As a veggie I wouldn't touch him...Mitch would have really enjoyed him!
(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 9, 2010, 7:10 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Aug 9, 2010, 7:14 PM
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gblauer wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Sorry to hear your pig lost, but how did it taste afterward? Ha ha...As a veggie I wouldn't touch him...Mitch would have really enjoyed him!
I like my pulled pork spicy.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 9, 2010, 10:37 PM
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We haven't been to the Gunks in a while but we have been climbing. After a stretch of climbing 11 days in a 15 day stretch, we are back to being weekend warriors.
This weekend we only had a day to climb, so we went to Farley. We finally ventured a little further right and did some pretty cool routes. I finally did Barndoor. Super route, but not very hard at the grade. Tiff led Yosemite crack and we also did a few that we have no clue what they were. I am not even sure what grade they were. I find that pretty refreshing. In today's guidebook infused style of climbing (which I am not complaining about, btw), it is rare that I just look up and say, "That looks pretty cool, lets do this."
I was still feeling a little sore from the gym on Thursday. I guess I'm getting old. I did determine, however, that when I am tired and sore, everything feels like 5.10. 8? 9? Really, I thought it was a 10. Even the 11's. I assume they are easier than they feel, BECAUSE I'm tired and sore.
At the end of the day, I thought I had something left in the tank, so I wanted to go try Usick (12a). I had been on it a couple years ago and thought I remembered it fairly well. I figured, well, I'm stronger now, so it shouldn't be TOO much of a problem. Well, I realized that I am not so strong, that a 12a at the end of the day is a piece of cake. I still need to be pretty fresh for a 12. No sendage for me.
After climbing, we headed to a little restaurant in Greenfield, MA called the People's Pint (which is worth the trip by itself, btw). It's an all organic restaurant that is also a brew pub. Yum!
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Aug 9, 2010, 10:49 PM
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I actually liked Yosemite Crack. Once I pulled the bulge it was pretty fun.
Did you happen to jump on that long roof that is to the far left (just above the path that heads down to the bat cave)? According to Ward, it's only 10a. It doesn't look it though. 
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 11, 2010, 9:29 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I actually liked Yosemite Crack. Once I pulled the bulge it was pretty fun. Did you happen to jump on that long roof that is to the far left (just above the path that heads down to the bat cave)? According to Ward, it's only 10a. It doesn't look it though.
Doesn't sound familiar.
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 23, 2010, 1:12 AM
Post #324 of 1159
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Rain Rain Go Away
I have to admit that I haven't said that very frequently this summer. My grass and plants are very happy to see the rain.
Mitch and I got to the cliff at noon on Saturday, the west trapps lot was full so we proceeeded to the stairmaster. I have to admit, I actually prefer the stairmaster, it's so much faster. We warmed up on all three pitches of Rusty Trifle and then I lead Trusty Rifle. Has anyone lead this climb? It's on the right end of the ledge where P2 of Rusty Trifle begins. You pull up to a small roof, then pull over the bulge at a very thin seam. It felt harder than a 7 and the gear through the crux was finicky, although available (think micronut in the seam). I was a bit sketched when I got through the crux and reached for what I thought was going to be a jug, NOT. It was a large clump of mud! I really had to hold it together to get to a decent stance and finally plug some gear (I felt like I was 20 feet above my micronut, in reality I was probably 6 feet). After that it was easy peasy to the GT ledge. Although I only had two slings left for 60 feet of climbing. Actually, I could have stopped at the first pine tree, but it was occupied by Steve (dad) and two of his kids (perry and clay, 13 and 9ish). It was fun to watch them climb together; the kids are going to be great climbers.
After my excitement on Trusty Rifle, we did Wrist. I have never lead P2 and I finally got my chance. Goodness that is one heck of a traverse for a 5.6! I wasted far too much energy trying the "high road" vs. the "low road" while enroute to the horn. I made it, but, I am sure that I was very comical to watch. I have to do it again and see if I can do it with better style. Anyone want to share some beta? I hear there is a trick, but, I sure didn't see one. Should I heel hook?
We got rained out today and tomorrow (forecast is for rain all night and showers tomorrow). So, I am adjusting my schedule and plan to head back up Thursday night and climb Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Guess I will be at the gym tomorrow. I have to start training for my trip to EPC in November.
Anyone want to go to Red Rocks Sept 9-12th?
(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 23, 2010, 1:48 AM)
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losbill
Aug 23, 2010, 1:39 AM
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Gail --- Showed up Saturday evening looking for a steak dinner. No one home. Some rumor about a wedding?!!?! Settled for scoring some booty approach shoes we found on your front porch!!
Regarding Wrist P2, quite the 5.6! Don't think there is any secret. Feet are there, at least for me, low or high with low being better for me; just hard to see due to the bulge in the rock at your waist.
Sorry you got washed out. Greg and I had three very good days T-Sa. Just cruised, looking to get my feet back under me after the HHH doldrums. Highlight for me was a flash of P1 of Birdland. Very fun, very satisfying crux to figure out. Greg manned up and did a nice lead of P2 despite not being near top form due to recent illness.
Beat myself up top roping To Be or Not To Be to put a finish to the trip. Came within 2 inches of getting the first crux. Need to get the feet just bit higher. I think the key will be figuring out how to make a slightly higher grip on the sloper work. --- Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Aug 23, 2010, 1:40 AM)
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