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You ever have one of those days?
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Partner cracklover


Jun 29, 2009, 9:24 AM
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You ever have one of those days?
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Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused.

And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?"

Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go.

Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up.

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch."

So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge.

Sigh...

Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch!

Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack?

GO


knieveltech


Jun 29, 2009, 9:50 AM
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cracklover wrote:
Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused.

And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?"

Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go.

Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up.

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch."

So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge.

Sigh...

Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch!

Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack?

GO

Nice to know it isn't just me.


chadnsc


Jun 29, 2009, 9:50 AM
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Happens to me more than I'd care to admit. If my blood sugar (I'm diabetic) is off at all I just don't lead well. . .


boymeetsrock


Jun 29, 2009, 10:05 AM
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I can distinctly remember one of those days.

My partner and I were up early to get a few pitches before work/ class. I had a 5.9 in mind. At my trad lead limit at the time, but a straight forward and short line that had been on my list for a while.

I let my partner lead the bolted 5.8 next to my climb. Then I followed him for a warm up.

'Damn, this feels harder than it should,' I thought to myself. I thought about it for a little while but decided to go for the 5.9 anyway.

Climbed up a bit set a piece and promptly slipped of to be caught by that small nut. Then a quick shake out and I was back at it. Got up to the end of the crux this time with two more cams added to the system below me now. When all of a sudden... Airborne. I'll never forget the sight of both of those Sh*tty cams pulling out together. About an hour later I was in the hospital with a dislocated shoulder and a traumatized partner. (dude climbs WAY harder than me now, btw).

I told you that story to tell you this... I commend you for listening to your body/ mind. You adjusted your goals for the day and still found a climb to do. While you made some "mistakes" along that route, you had already made the better choice and listed to yourself and chose a more appropriate objective for the day. Perhaps that is one of the biggest challenges in climbing; picking an appropriate climb for your physical and mental abilities "right now".

Speaking from the experience of having a diminished (for a long time) lead head; you will get back on the horse in good time. A guy with your experience doesn't just loose his "head" overnight. Sometimes the moon pulls us to hard. Sometimes we drink too much. There are many reasons we loose our mental focus at times but, "they always come back" (tm) !!

Otherwise, I'll PM my address for you to send your rack over. Tongue


mturner


Jun 29, 2009, 10:16 AM
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Been there far too many times. It's those days that I just try to stay thankful that I'm getting outdoors regardless of how I'm climbing.


lena_chita
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Jun 29, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Yes


bill413


Jun 29, 2009, 10:57 AM
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cracklover wrote:
And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Ignore the other climber - they do what they do. It's their head, not yours.

I commend your decision to listen to where you are in head space.

I once spent several months getting my head back because of a fall I didn't think I should have taken. It'll come - probably quickly for you.


sknowlton


Jun 29, 2009, 10:57 AM
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mturner wrote:
Been there far too many times. It's those days that I just try to stay thankful that I'm getting outdoors regardless of how I'm climbing.

Amen to that.


chilli


Jun 29, 2009, 11:21 AM
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been there (and glad i'm not the only one). some time ago we went out on day one, got shut down after a pitch by a hell of a thunder/lightning storm. went out on day 2, no more than 20ft up and i KNEW i just didn't have my head right that day. we ended up on some short easy routes, just trying to enjoy the outdoors a bit. now every trad lead, regardless of how easy, starts with some mental prep to get my head right and deep breathing. my gf calls it pranayama. i just call it necessary sketch-prevention.


mike_devildog


Jun 29, 2009, 11:48 AM
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This is one of the best forum posts I have seen in awhile!...

I have recently had to accept the idea that I am a weekend warrior climber ONLY!! On occasion I will get out locally during the week to boulder or some other type of excercise! It was about 2 weekends ago where I was woken up to this title of weekend warrior., I was super excited to get down to summersville, WV to climb..and just crush routes since the weather had been so crappy for quite sometime, and it didnt really allow me to climb!

Well after warming up on 3 climbs on Long wall I was already pushed to my limit when it came to stamina..and finger strength! I thought to myself, What the shit is going on? I use to burn through these routes with no problem, all these random thoughts were going through my head..well mike you have been riding a desk now for a year!, your local climbing spot has been closed now for over a year!, did i drink to much coffee?, did I miss my morning dump? All these thoughts were flying through my head trying to find an excuse why I was already spent, and we had only climbed 3 routes!

We then proceeded to head to Perot wall, where many of you know they are all slightly overhanging pumpy routes with hard moves to clip the shuts. Well as you might have guessed I was getting SHUTDOWN by routes in the 5.11-10b range not even being able to clip a draw on the shuts! Having lost my religion, and all faith in any climbing ability that I thought I once had my day was over mentally!

Since last weekend I have had to accept the fact I most likely will not be as good as I once was due to my life schedule! This past weekend, as in 2days ago I went trad climbing staying in the 5.6-5.9 range thorougly enjoying myself, and just appreciating getting out in the beautiful sunny weather! Sometimes the head isnt always there, especially since I dont lead climb every weekend much anymore, or the regularity of climbing that keeps us feeling strong!

Im currently trying to teach myself to just enjoy each opportunity that I get to get out and climb! Hopefully I learn quickly..Everyone enjoy your time spent climbing..Peace


pfwein


Jun 29, 2009, 11:55 AM
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We call it a "high gravity day." Nothing to worry about until they all start being high gravity days. Then I guess you've got to accept that's how good you are. But at least climbing is more predictable than golf--that is truly a game where I have no idea how I'll play on any given day, ranging from halfway decent to rank beginner.


iknowfear


Jun 29, 2009, 12:49 PM
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yes.

recently, i bailed on a 6a+ (sport), that I had done several times... My mind just totally shut down...

climbers equivalent of a bad hair day...


Partner angry


Jun 29, 2009, 12:57 PM
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You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.


climbingnoise


Jun 29, 2009, 1:25 PM
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great posts. we've all been there. useful opportunity to separate your climbing from your ego. on those days when the optimal balance between challenge and comfort is a number grade or two lower the only thing preventing you from enjoying the climbing is your ego trying to define itself in relation to irrelevant reference points, that other dude, the past you, etc.

fuk 8a.nu Sly

when its the right time you know it


sungam


Jun 29, 2009, 2:43 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
Happens to me more than I'd care to admit.
Yup.


AntinJ


Jun 29, 2009, 4:09 PM
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Diddo - especially when you get first-climb-of-the-day-itis.


k.l.k


Jun 29, 2009, 4:17 PM
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cracklover wrote:
You ever have one of those days?


No. Never.

You're just getting old.

How much for the rack?


(This post was edited by k.l.k on Jun 29, 2009, 4:36 PM)


petsfed


Jun 29, 2009, 4:50 PM
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angry wrote:
You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

Yeah, that thing is a bitch.

I've taken on a 5.5(!) sport route (!!) on a bad day before. Some days, gravity is just a son of a bitch.


Partner angry


Jun 29, 2009, 5:02 PM
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petsfed wrote:
angry wrote:
You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

Yeah, that thing is a bitch.

Bout time someone recognized my genius. Site full of fucking n00bs and Californians.


k.l.k


Jun 29, 2009, 5:07 PM
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angry wrote:
petsfed wrote:
angry wrote:
You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

Yeah, that thing is a bitch.

Bout time someone recognized my genius. Site full of fucking n00bs and Californians.

stfu n00b


reno


Jun 29, 2009, 7:33 PM
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angry wrote:
You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.

Brutal, it is. Brutal. Especially so if you have to park in the lower parking lot.


wonderwoman


Jun 29, 2009, 7:59 PM
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Boy, do I know what you're talking about! Josh tells me that I have extreme highs and extreme lows in climbing. I am up & down in both the literal & the head space sense, like a manic depressive!

I think that you have to accept that somedays you just feel 'off'. But you also have to accept & live with the climbing decisions that you make. Forgive yourself, move on, & realize that the rock will be there later.

But don't let one instance let you question your talent, ability or ruin your enjoyment as a climber. At the end of the day 'it is what it is', but the next climbing day will be completely different!

Now I have to reread this to myself!!!


coolcat83


Jun 29, 2009, 8:13 PM
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yes, had one today, hot day, had been climbing hard outside on tr and in the gym for several sessions in a row, and lead some trad yesterday, today by the time i got to the climbs I was tired, just didn't feel up to leading anything, so I handed over the rack..to a new leader..and she just ran up it, I felt pumped just following. Some days I have it, the balance, laybacks, smears, confidence. Some days I feel shakey even following a route if it traverses or I can swing into something if i peel off.

But it's usually enjoyable, and my ego survives.


rtwilli4


Jun 29, 2009, 11:05 PM
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You've just described a pretty normal day of trad climbing for me... accept my g/f would have freaked out if I asked her to simul-climb and doesn't even like climbing with me to begin with.


sungam


Jun 30, 2009, 10:58 AM
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reno wrote:
angry wrote:
I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.
This ^ is very nearly sig worthy.


petsfed


Jun 30, 2009, 11:47 AM
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reno wrote:
It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.

Brutal, it is. Brutal. Especially so if you have to park in the lower parking lot.

I foolishly left the bivy gear behind, so I had to climb through the night. Worst storm I've ever seen too.


Partner cracklover


Jun 30, 2009, 12:11 PM
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Yes, it's cragging. Zero approach, low commitment.

What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Angry, I'm glad you're "getting in shape". Here's your cookie. Happy now?

To everyone who shared their stories about their own bad days, thanks. My take-away from the day is that I'll just dial it down a notch, grow a pair, and get back on the horse.

GO


k.l.k


Jun 30, 2009, 12:16 PM
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cracklover wrote:
What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Don't take it so hard-- it was just teasing.

Does this mean you're not really selling yr rack?


petsfed


Jun 30, 2009, 12:22 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Yes, it's cragging. Zero approach, low commitment.

What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Angry, I'm glad you're "getting in shape". Here's your cookie. Happy now?

To everyone who shared their stories about their own bad days, thanks. My take-away from the day is that I'll just dial it down a notch, grow a pair, and get back on the horse.

GO

Dude, we weren't making fun of you. We were giving a more ridiculous excuse for a fairly common occurrence.

I'm not kidding when I say that I've hung on a 3-bolt 5.5 sport route. Angry has seen me throw a total wobbler on a route that's well within my abilities, then looked up and said (with a straight face I could never pull off) "Dude, I have never been there". He threw an identical wobbler about 5 minutes later, which concluded with him stating that he failed not because its a sandbagged 11b offwidth, but rather that the route sucks. Funny stuff.


Partner cracklover


Jun 30, 2009, 12:53 PM
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k.l.k wrote:
cracklover wrote:
What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Don't take it so hard-- it was just teasing.

Teasing is fine, I just didn't get it. Like I said, I guess I'm a bit thick.

In reply to:
Does this mean you're not really selling yr rack?

Ask me that after next weekend, we'll see how it goes.

GO


seatbeltpants


Jun 30, 2009, 1:38 PM
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Re: [chilli] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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chilli wrote:
pranayama

i lolled.

yeah, god, who doesn't have one of those days? i blame it on everything from lack or coffee to excessive coffee, lack of sleep to excessive sleep, lack of breakfast to excessive breakfast... but the truth is that it comes and goes pretty randomly and i just need to roll with it. actaully for me it often comes down to the weather - i'm generally happy to climb hard and take falls if it's sunny, but if the sky is brimming with big evil clouds i just want to bail and go snuggle my cat on the couch.

no point trying to climb outside of the zone i'm in - it the gods are calling for an easy day then trying to climb hard won't work, and vice versa.

steve


boymeetsrock


Jun 30, 2009, 1:38 PM
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Didn't you just do a trip to Moab recently? I assume you sent hard that trip?

Chin up dude !! There is a constant ebb and flow in life.


....and you know this, MANNNN !


Partner cracklover


Jun 30, 2009, 2:03 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Didn't you just do a trip to Moab recently? I assume you sent hard that trip?

Chin up dude !! There is a constant ebb and flow in life.


....and you know this, MANNNN !

Yeah, you guessed right, it went well. I guess it just goes to show that I'm best at crack, and suck shit at unprotectable face climbing (even when it's "easy"). Something to work on, I guess.

GO


wanderlustmd


Jun 30, 2009, 6:30 PM
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Yep it happens. For me, consistency is important. If I don't climb regularly, I can feel it pretty quickly. Sounds like you haven't been out much due to rain...

Don't sweat it.


bill413


Jun 30, 2009, 7:08 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Yeah, you guessed right, it went well. I guess it just goes to show that I'm best at crack, and suck shit at unprotectable face climbing (even when it's "easy"). Something to work on, I guess.
Hey, we each have styles we're better at.
And, as we've all said - we all have up & down days, doesn't matter what you're on.

Yeah - climbing with no protection whigs me out...face, crack that won't accept pro...R/X routses - ugh! Some days, when I'm really up, I can do that...most of the time...I rot.


ClimbClimb


Aug 16, 2009, 2:44 PM
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I'm glad to hear it happens to others, I thought it was just me. This summer has been bad b.c. the weather has really limited my ability to get outside, and .. well.. outisde is different than the gym. ;-)


curt


Aug 16, 2009, 3:17 PM
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cracklover wrote:
Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused.

And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?"

Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go.

Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up.

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch."

So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge.

Sigh...

Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch!

Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack?

GO

Hey Gabe, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it--we've all had days like that before and probably will again.

Curt


curt


Aug 16, 2009, 3:19 PM
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Re: [k.l.k] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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k.l.k wrote:
cracklover wrote:
What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Don't take it so hard-- it was just teasing.

Does this mean you're not really selling yr rack?

WTF would you do with a rack? When was the last time you even bothered with a rope? Cool

Curt


scotty1974


Aug 16, 2009, 4:01 PM
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Yep, had plent of those "up and down" days...climb up to the high point, bail etc. What makes it worse is I'm downclimbing and cleaning gear which is harder and less safe than going up! But sometimes you get the bear and sometimes the bear gets you. The key is remember to have fun and not bash yourself too much...stay positive and don't let the self loathing get into your psyche!!

I lecently let my head take all the fun out of climbing for a bit, and continuing to pressure and berate myself made it worse. So I just started climbing some easier grades for fun, had some success and bang! Now I'm pumped again and looking forward to climbing as much as possible...

So don't beat yourself up over a bad day...like Arno says focus on what you learned not what you accomplished. AND HAVE FUN!!


(This post was edited by scotty1974 on Aug 16, 2009, 4:17 PM)


k.l.k


Aug 17, 2009, 8:57 AM
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curt wrote:
k.l.k wrote:
cracklover wrote:
What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Don't take it so hard-- it was just teasing.

Does this mean you're not really selling yr rack?

WTF would you do with a rack? When was the last time you even bothered with a rope? Cool

Curt

tomorrow.

last chance at salvaging the summer


fresh


Aug 26, 2009, 8:48 AM
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nice post.. actually I'm thinking these days might be useful for skill practice. as soon as you realize you won't be able to accomplish anything, the pressure to perform is off. so maybe it's a day to goof off and try new stuff.

of course it sucks to realize this after a long approach..


patmay81


Aug 26, 2009, 9:16 AM
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chilli wrote:
now every trad lead, regardless of how easy, starts with some mental prep to get my head right and deep breathing.
yeah, everyone has to get their head into it. my trad prep may seem more like a sport climbers prep session: white stripes at full volume and an extra large red bull. then I focus on the the first 5 or 6 moves of the climb for a few minutes and head out.


blueeyedclimber


Aug 26, 2009, 10:38 AM
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cracklover wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
Didn't you just do a trip to Moab recently? I assume you sent hard that trip?

Chin up dude !! There is a constant ebb and flow in life.


....and you know this, MANNNN !

Yeah, you guessed right, it went well. I guess it just goes to show that I'm best at crack, and suck shit at unprotectable face climbing (even when it's "easy"). Something to work on, I guess.

GO

We need to partner up more frequently then. You take the cracks/chimneys and I take the unprotected face ;)


shimanilami


Aug 26, 2009, 11:24 AM
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I've had a lot of those days lately. Rough times at work. An eight-month pregnant wife. A rebelious 3 year old who doesn't want a little sister. And my car just blew up. I'm getting it from all directions.

I so look forward to the rare days I get to go climbing, but when I get there I don't perform like I'm accustomed to. I can't pretend the stress and lack of sleep aren't taking their toll.

I'm in a funk. But even so, I'm fortunate to be able to do what I do, even if I suck at it right now.


Partner cracklover


Aug 26, 2009, 3:39 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
I've had a lot of those days lately. Rough times at work. An eight-month pregnant wife. A rebelious 3 year old who doesn't want a little sister. And my car just blew up. I'm getting it from all directions.

I so look forward to the rare days I get to go climbing, but when I get there I don't perform like I'm accustomed to. I can't pretend the stress and lack of sleep aren't taking their toll.

I'm in a funk. But even so, I'm fortunate to be able to do what I do, even if I suck at it right now.

Sorry, that's a drag. Good for you, though, at least you're still motivated to get out and climb.

Josh - definitely!

GO


milesenoell


Aug 26, 2009, 4:34 PM
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Fluctuations in performance just underscore the validity of our achievements.Climbing 12's or climbing 7's our achievements can be real. Consider the time when each of us will recognize that our bodies or our minds are unlikely to ever perform at levels that we have enjoyed in the past. Do we quit, or do we embrace the fact that we can still surpass ourselves? Expecting to perform at a consistent, rising level is giving short shrift to how complex and impressive the tasks we have performed really are.

Letting go entirely is the greatest disgrace. To turn our back on on the gifts of our body is still ready to bestow, is to forget how truly fortunate we are.

Be kind, but firm with yourself.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Aug 26, 2009, 4:39 PM)


lazyanne


Sep 9, 2009, 8:43 PM
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god you always down yourself...you are a crazy good climber, especially on paint ;) keep climbing and welcomi9ng goodness in your life, karma baby...tits to you!!


Partner cracklover


Sep 10, 2009, 1:52 PM
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Hey Anne, thanks for the kind words.

Though I'm not sure what...

lazyanne wrote:
tits to you!!

...means. I'm thinking it's a good thing. I mean, I do like tits!

Cheers!

GO


climbdork


Sep 10, 2009, 2:30 PM
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Two years ago, I sailed right up my first lead in over 7 months. Well, I got to the first bolt w/out any problem that I can remember, and continued to the belay without hanging. Two years later, my new "partner-in-climb"(tm) wanted to climb the same route, but wasn't ready to lead it. No problem, I thought.

Not today. I couldn't make it to that same first bolt. Two weeks later, we decided I'd try it again. I got the second of the party ahead of us to be our stick-clip, and TR'd through the opening moves, looking out for the tough spot that shut me down before. Next thing I knew, I was looking at the first bolt. I had sailed right through the "unprotectable crux!" The previous attempt had merely been "one of those days." They come and, most importantly, they go.


potreroed


Sep 10, 2009, 2:56 PM
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No, I've never had a day like that. Every time I go climbing I totally crush.


socalclimber


Sep 10, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Been there done that many times.


chopperjohn


Sep 22, 2009, 12:07 PM
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Thats the story of my mediocre climbing life. I have lazy climbing ethic most of the time wondering around the crag start one chicken out repeatedly failing but when I'm on I'm on this is what keeps me climbing.


CrazyPetie


Sep 22, 2009, 12:52 PM
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Of course everybody has those uneasy feelings sometimes, especially on the first route of the day. The difference between climbers and posers is the ability to change that thought process at will. It usually happens when you pick the route you want to do a few days ahead of time. Then when you get there you make up excuses; this is the problem. If your a climber, be a climber. Do the route you wanna do, otherwise what the hell are you even doin there? You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.

This is a mental tool i use to get over sketchy thoughts. I just ask myself if i'm a climber or pretending to be a climber. Basically forcing myself to just start climbing, because once i'm a dozen feet off the ground my instincts will do their job. The more you think about it, the harder it feels. Its not like i would be dissatisfied doing 5.9's all day, but that wasn't the goal. If you bail on your recreational goals what does that say about your practical life goals? The way you live will reflect on the way you climb and vise versa.

Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint. It can even be listening to your favorite song before you start climbing. You gotta find what works for you. And you gotta remember its a playground out there, quit being a pussy and have fun. Its not supposed to feel like work when you climb hard routes. I've had bad days from being too hung over, but i've also had really good hung over days. The fact is there is no real excuse and you have to believe that the only thing holding you back is yourself.


milesenoell


Sep 22, 2009, 10:56 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:


You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.

In reply to:

Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint.

So it's either get high at home or get high and climb? Is there any scenario when you don't get high?


Partner cracklover


Sep 23, 2009, 7:36 AM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
Of course everybody has those uneasy feelings sometimes, especially on the first route of the day. The difference between climbers and posers is the ability to change that thought process at will. It usually happens when you pick the route you want to do a few days ahead of time. Then when you get there you make up excuses; this is the problem. If your a climber, be a climber. Do the route you wanna do, otherwise what the hell are you even doin there? You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.

This is a mental tool i use to get over sketchy thoughts. I just ask myself if i'm a climber or pretending to be a climber. Basically forcing myself to just start climbing, because once i'm a dozen feet off the ground my instincts will do their job. The more you think about it, the harder it feels. Its not like i would be dissatisfied doing 5.9's all day, but that wasn't the goal. If you bail on your recreational goals what does that say about your practical life goals? The way you live will reflect on the way you climb and vise versa.

Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint. It can even be listening to your favorite song before you start climbing. You gotta find what works for you. And you gotta remember its a playground out there, quit being a pussy and have fun. Its not supposed to feel like work when you climb hard routes. I've had bad days from being too hung over, but i've also had really good hung over days. The fact is there is no real excuse and you have to believe that the only thing holding you back is yourself.

Hey CP, I appreciate your input, but if I'm reading you right, the gist of it is: sack up.

If I'm stuck up in the middle of a wall, sure. You gotta do what you gotta do. But when I'm looking at an ankle-breaking fall at the least, and have no idea how I'm going to avoid taking that fall, and retreat is easy and painless, you better believe I'm going to back down, every time.

Cheers,

GO


Partner cracklover


Sep 23, 2009, 7:41 AM
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Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile.

GO


roughster


Sep 23, 2009, 7:48 AM
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My 1st day at any new area I haven't been to is often like this. I have also had them at my standard hangouts as well. If someone says they haven't ever felt like this, I would be inclined to disbelieve them.

No one can be at their best every day. That's why the term "peaking" was coined, because someday your at the top of your game.

However, in order for a peak to exist, there must also be a valley.


petsfed


Sep 23, 2009, 9:20 AM
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Saturday afternoon was, in fact, one of those days.

Mind you, saturday morning was brilliant. Warmed up on a 5.7 offwidth, followed a 10b offwidth (although the crux was hands, and I was seconding), then had lunch. After that, we headed for the main event, a 120 foot #6 friend/green big bro crack dubbed "Mainstreet". I could not even reach the crux. I tried to set an armbar with my right arm, palm a slower with the left and stand up on some sloping cobbles to get to the second (of 3) bolts and thus reach the 10a crux. No dice. I couldn't move. The arm bar would blow, the sloper palm would blow, or the smears would blow, EVERY TIME. And I was seconding here too. It was a little ridiculous. Fortunately, we had a 70m rope, so the leader could rap and clean the gear. Still, it was humiliating. I had climbed harder that morning.

The lesson learned, of course, is to go lead some more 5.8 and 5.9 offwidths and go suffer on Jay's Solo and Big Pink and then come back to Mainstreet, without the toprope. Nothing like a little overload training to accelerate the learning process.


CrazyPetie


Sep 23, 2009, 9:46 AM
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cracklover wrote:
Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile.

GO

I just started to get into it. I realize that its alot more heady, and i got a little taste of that. But most of the concepts are still the same. I'm young enough to say, "If i fall i fall, and hopefully the gear will hold!" I know that sounds reckless. I havent done any trad hard enough to really shake me up yet, so i guess you could say my post applies mostly to sport climbing. But I've done a good bit of soloing, even up to 5.10's.


CrazyPetie


Sep 23, 2009, 9:48 AM
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Partner cracklover


Sep 23, 2009, 10:00 AM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile.

GO

I just started to get into it. I realize that its alot more heady, and i got a little taste of that. But most of the concepts are still the same. I'm young enough to say, "If i fall i fall, and hopefully the gear will hold!" I know that sounds reckless.

Reckless? Maybe. Ignorant? Definitely. There are lots of times in trad climbing where falling is about as good an idea as falling while soloing.

Good luck!

GO


milesenoell


Sep 23, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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You really take a whole week off for a probation hearing with no smoking? I know hippies who haven't skipped more than a day in years.

Get a medical marijuana card and you'll be a lot happier. All you need is some serious spinal damage to qualify and from the sound of it, that may not be entirely unlikely to happen.


CrazyPetie


Sep 23, 2009, 12:37 PM
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Partner cracklover


Sep 23, 2009, 2:25 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO


skibum14


Sep 23, 2009, 3:24 PM
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If this is the attitude you got from reading The Rock Warrior's way, you definitely need to lay off the dope.


CrazyPetie


Sep 23, 2009, 3:56 PM
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cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it. Its an instruction manual to have less of "those days". I'm surprized there are serious climbers out there that havent read it yet.


The "dope" has nothing to do with my mentality about climbing...


Partner cracklover


Sep 23, 2009, 5:25 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it.

I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement.

GO


notapplicable


Sep 23, 2009, 5:33 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it. Its an instruction manual to have less of "those days". I'm surprized there are serious climbers out there that havent read it yet.

What makes you think that most - let alone all "serious" climbers (what ever that means) - need to read self help books?

That strikes me as starkly anti-thetical to the culture and spirit of this sport. At least I hope that is the case.


CrazyPetie


Sep 23, 2009, 5:34 PM
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cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it.

I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement.

GO

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.


notapplicable


Sep 23, 2009, 6:58 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own.

Oh the posterity!


notapplicable


Sep 23, 2009, 7:17 PM
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Re: [cracklover] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
You ever have one of those days?

GO

Oh yeah, I've had days like that.

I once backed off a route I had previously soloed because I couldn't "get good gear". Thats right, I got punked down by a 5.7 crack climb and my excuse was the gear.

IT'S A 5.7 CRACK, A TWO YEAR OLD COULD GET GEAR ON THE THING!!

Yep, I've had days like that. You bet I have.


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Sep 23, 2009, 7:19 PM)


blueeyedclimber


Sep 24, 2009, 7:57 AM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it.

I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement.

GO

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.

Just because you give advice, doesn't mean it's good. The Rock Warrior's Way is a nice read and important book for a very specific target audience. To even suggest that any serious climber must read it is ridiculous.

Second, to suggest that anyone who has a "bad head" day is a pussy is ignorant. When you leave the safety of your bolts and accumulate a fraction of the experience that cracklover has, then I'd like to hear how your opinion has changed. Until then, just because you have a keyboard, that doesn't make you an expert.

Peace. Josh


Partner cracklover


Sep 24, 2009, 7:57 AM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
cracklover wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it.

I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement.

GO

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.

Ha! No, the pot has nothing to do with my opinion. What I see is someone who hasn't figured out yet that trad climbing doesn't have the same rules as sport, and thus are advertising a ridiculously stupid attitude, without even realizing how it sounds. You're heading for a rude awakening.

Oh, and you may well have "mental abilities way beyond my own" but I doubt it. I've never had to drug myself to send hard sport. I have absolutely no difficulty pushing myself to the limit when the falls are safe, sport or trad (my redpoint limit is only a letter grade away between the two). And I've never wanted or needed self-help books to sack up on something that's safe in the first place.

So you see why, from you, it is a lousy endorsement? If someone with a really amazing attitude who sent harder trad than me recommended it, that would be a completely different matter.

But cheers anyway!

GO


fresh


Sep 24, 2009, 9:14 AM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] You ever have one of those days? [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
your ego is taking hold of you. the thousand-headed dragon is taunting you, you must draw your sword and cut off one of its heads!


sungam


Sep 24, 2009, 9:32 AM
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fresh wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
your ego is taking hold of you. the thousand-headed dragon is taunting you, you must draw your sword and cut off one of its heads!
Make sure your sword is sincker-snackering, though.


gmggg


Sep 24, 2009, 10:18 AM
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sungam wrote:
fresh wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
your ego is taking hold of you. the thousand-headed dragon is taunting you, you must draw your sword and cut off one of its heads!
Make sure your sword is sincker-snackering, though.

Or Vorpal at the very least


sungam


Sep 24, 2009, 11:18 AM
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gmggg wrote:
sungam wrote:
fresh wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
your ego is taking hold of you. the thousand-headed dragon is taunting you, you must draw your sword and cut off one of its heads!
Make sure your sword is sincker-snackering, though.

Or Vorpal at the very least
Oh, without saying!
With teeth that bite and claws that grab, you can never be too careful!


blueeyedclimber


Sep 25, 2009, 6:48 AM
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What the hell are you geeks talking about?Tongue


wonderwoman


Sep 25, 2009, 7:30 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
What the hell are you geeks talking about?Tongue

I dunno, but I think it involves rolling 10 sided dice before you can send your project.


gmggg


Sep 25, 2009, 7:38 AM
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wonderwoman wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
What the hell are you geeks talking about?Tongue

I dunno, but I think it involves rolling 10 sided dice before you can send your project.

I wish I could build up strength and dexterity that easily!


olderic


Sep 25, 2009, 7:43 AM
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wonderwoman wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
What the hell are you geeks talking about?Tongue

I dunno, but I think it involves rolling 10 sided dice before you can send your project.

if "xyzzy" won't solve it nothing will.


gmggg


Sep 25, 2009, 7:50 AM
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olderic wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
What the hell are you geeks talking about?Tongue

I dunno, but I think it involves rolling 10 sided dice before you can send your project.

if "xyzzy" won't solve it nothing will.

That's aid.


sungam


Sep 25, 2009, 8:15 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
What the hell are you geeks talking about?Tongue
Hehehe-
'Twas brillig, and the slithy toves

Did gyre and gimble in the wabe;
All mimsy were the borogoves,
And the mome raths outgrabe.

"Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch!
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!"

He took his vorpal sword in hand:
Long time the manxome foe he soughtó
So rested he by the Tumtum tree,
And stood awhile in thought.

And as in uffish thought he stood,
The Jabberwock, with eyes of flame,
Came whiffling through the tulgey wood,
And burbled as it came!

One, two! One, two! and through and through
The vorpal blade went snicker-snack!
He left it dead, and with its head
He went galumphing back.

"And hast thou slain the Jabberwock?
Come to my arms, my beamish boy!
O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!"
He chortled in his joy.

'Twas brillig, and the slithy toves
Did gyre and gimble in the wabe;
All mimsy were the borogoves,
And the mome raths outgrabe.


It's a poem from Through The Looking-glass by Lewis Carroll, the sequel Alice in Wonderland.


pfffffft - this is the kind of shit everyone should know!


saxfiend


Sep 25, 2009, 1:22 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.
Great. Just what WW needs, an endorsement by an arrogant, smacktalking doper. Talk about drinking the kool-aid!

JL


(This post was edited by saxfiend on Sep 25, 2009, 1:31 PM)


saxfiend


Sep 25, 2009, 1:30 PM
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cracklover wrote:
And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today.
Yep, we all have those days. I think the most depressing one for me was on a first ascent at Red Rock. I was all stoked for the occasion (my first and so far only FA), but by the time I finished leading the first pitch, I knew it was "one of those days." So I turned over the lead to my partners for the rest of the pitches, following in a kind of fugue state.

But hey, a bad day on the rock beats a good day in the office . . .

JL


boymeetsrock


Sep 25, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Wow. Saxfiend has 'those' says too?!? I feel heroic at the moment. Smile






saxfiend wrote:

But hey, a bad day on the rock beats a good day in the office . . .

JL

Ain't that the truth!


saxfiend


Sep 25, 2009, 1:48 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Wow. Saxfiend has 'those' says too?!? I feel heroic at the moment. Smile
Huh? I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or if you've mistaken me for a real hardman, heh.

JL


boymeetsrock


Sep 25, 2009, 1:55 PM
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Well it certainly is NOT sarcasm.

This time Tongue.


Hard man or knot you mileage FAR exceeds mine. Made me fell good to hear Gabe has these days as I respect what I believe to be his accomplishments. I know you've accomplished more than he in your extensive climbing career. btw 5.#'s mean little to me.


saxfiend


Sep 25, 2009, 6:28 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
I know you've accomplished more than he in your extensive climbing career.
Okay, you've definitely got me confused with someone. Gabe is a much better and more experienced climber than me.

JL


Partner rgold


Sep 25, 2009, 8:00 PM
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After 51 years of climbing, days that this don't surprise me at all. I call it "the nameless dread." It comes over you, and you become hesitant and fearful. I suspect it may be the manifestation of a perfectly rational mind that understands climbing is dangerous and is rebelling against the potential risks. Consequently, I treat it as a sign of intelligence.

I don't believe in "sacking up" and pushing on. Been there and done that. Just not enough fun to make the whole enterprise worthwhile. Pushing your limits can be rewarding, and risking your life can be exciting, but you gotta want it. The subconscious brain does a lot of processing, and when it breaks through with a bit of attitude, give it some credit for having figured out something you haven't realized yet.

For example, you might be climbing with a significant other who is, at least in some ways, dependent on your abilities. You may not be able to say that you are not up to par today and just turn over the lead. This imposes a significantly higher psychic load.

Or maybe climbing has become so important that you aren't quite sure what you are or would be without it. A bad state of affairs in my opinion, fully worthy of a visitation from the nameless dread specter.

One cure is to back down the difficulty scale until you are cruising and aren't being tested. Another cure is to let your partner can take over the leading for a while. My partners have usually been only too happy to hog the lead, and this way you don't ruining someone else's day.

For me, putting away the gear and going bouldering (not high-balls, obviously) used to work well. I'm pretty much retired from bouldering because of the injury potential to my superannuated body, but it was always a refreshing break from the mental stresses of trad climbing and had the benefit that when the urge to return to leading returned (it always does, I think), I was much stronger.

Or maybe what the day requires is a brisk hike, a good bike ride, an afternoon on the windsurfer, a bracing swim, or (yuk) a few rounds of golf. If you are an outdoor person and not just a climbing automaton, then there are lots of ways to enjoy being out and it doesn't have to be climbing every damn time, even if that is what you planned.

Personally, I've always enjoyed photography, and some of those nameless dread days turned into wonderful photo sessions, engaging interests and abilities very different from the harsh exigencies of the sharp end.

So I'd say, putting away the rack for a while---fine. Selling it---nah, you'll just have to buy another one...


Partner cracklover


Sep 27, 2009, 7:59 PM
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RG, thanks very much for the thoughtful reply, and sound advice.

Cheers!

GO


Partner cracklover


Jul 24, 2010, 8:43 PM
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A year and a month later, I had... a very good day.

Yay!

GO


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