Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused.

And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?"

Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go.

Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up.

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch."

So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge.

Sigh...

Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch!

Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack?

GO

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Been there far too many times. It's those days that I just try to stay thankful that I'm getting outdoors regardless of how I'm climbing.

Happens to me more than I'd care to admit.

You ever have one of those days?

You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

Yeah, that thing is a bitch.

Bout time someone recognized my genius. Site full of fucking n00bs and Californians.

You were probably just worked from the approach.

I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.

It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.

It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.

Brutal, it is. Brutal. Especially so if you have to park in the lower parking lot.

What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Yes, it's cragging. Zero approach, low commitment.

What, four, five posts to belabor the same point? I must be particularly thick, as I'm not getting exactly why this needs to be hammered home so hard. I already know I had a lousy day. The fact that it was an easy approach tells me... what exactly?

Angry, I'm glad you're "getting in shape". Here's your cookie. Happy now?

To everyone who shared their stories about their own bad days, thanks. My take-away from the day is that I'll just dial it down a notch, grow a pair, and get back on the horse.

GO

Don't take it so hard-- it was just teasing.

Does this mean you're not really selling yr rack?

pranayama

Didn't you just do a trip to Moab recently? I assume you sent hard that trip?

Chin up dude !! There is a constant ebb and flow in life.


....and you know this, MANNNN !

Yeah, you guessed right, it went well. I guess it just goes to show that I'm best at crack, and suck shit at unprotectable face climbing (even when it's "easy"). Something to work on, I guess.

Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused.

And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?"

Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go.

Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up.

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.

Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.

And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.

Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch."

So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge.

Sigh...

Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch!

Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack?

GO

Don't take it so hard-- it was just teasing.

Does this mean you're not really selling yr rack?

WTF would you do with a rack? When was the last time you even bothered with a rope?

Curt

now every trad lead, regardless of how easy, starts with some mental prep to get my head right and deep breathing.

Yeah, you guessed right, it went well. I guess it just goes to show that I'm best at crack, and suck shit at unprotectable face climbing (even when it's "easy"). Something to work on, I guess.

GO

I've had a lot of those days lately. Rough times at work. An eight-month pregnant wife. A rebelious 3 year old who doesn't want a little sister. And my car just blew up. I'm getting it from all directions.

I so look forward to the rare days I get to go climbing, but when I get there I don't perform like I'm accustomed to. I can't pretend the stress and lack of sleep aren't taking their toll.

I'm in a funk. But even so, I'm fortunate to be able to do what I do, even if I suck at it right now.

tits to you!!

You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.

Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint.

Of course everybody has those uneasy feelings sometimes, especially on the first route of the day. The difference between climbers and posers is the ability to change that thought process at will. It usually happens when you pick the route you want to do a few days ahead of time. Then when you get there you make up excuses; this is the problem. If your a climber, be a climber. Do the route you wanna do, otherwise what the hell are you even doin there? You should have stayed home to get high and watch movies all day.

This is a mental tool i use to get over sketchy thoughts. I just ask myself if i'm a climber or pretending to be a climber. Basically forcing myself to just start climbing, because once i'm a dozen feet off the ground my instincts will do their job. The more you think about it, the harder it feels. Its not like i would be dissatisfied doing 5.9's all day, but that wasn't the goal. If you bail on your recreational goals what does that say about your practical life goals? The way you live will reflect on the way you climb and vise versa.

Another easy way to get over the jitters is utilizing a little bit of your "vice" of choice. Sometimes its a shot of liquor, sometimes its a drag on a joint. It can even be listening to your favorite song before you start climbing. You gotta find what works for you. And you gotta remember its a playground out there, quit being a pussy and have fun. Its not supposed to feel like work when you climb hard routes. I've had bad days from being too hung over, but i've also had really good hung over days. The fact is there is no real excuse and you have to believe that the only thing holding you back is yourself.

Hmm... CrazyP - do you trad climb? It doesn't look like it from your profile.

GO

I just started to get into it. I realize that its alot more heady, and i got a little taste of that. But most of the concepts are still the same. I'm young enough to say, "If i fall i fall, and hopefully the gear will hold!" I know that sounds reckless.

Cracklover, have you read the warrior's way? Its transformed my climbing for sure.

Nope.

GO

You gotta read it.

You gotta read it. Its an instruction manual to have less of "those days". I'm surprized there are serious climbers out there that havent read it yet.

I hope you realize that from your mouth, that's an anti-endorsement.

GO

All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own.

You ever have one of those days?

GO

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.

your ego is taking hold of you. the thousand-headed dragon is taunting you, you must draw your sword and cut off one of its heads!

Make sure your sword is sincker-snackering, though.

Or Vorpal at the very least

What the hell are you geeks talking about?

I dunno, but I think it involves rolling 10 sided dice before you can send your project.

I dunno, but I think it involves rolling 10 sided dice before you can send your project.

if "xyzzy" won't solve it nothing will.

What the hell are you geeks talking about?

Whatever pussy, enjoy your lame climbing life of being scared of sub 5.10's. I was nothing but nice, trying to give you some good advice. All you see when you read my post is "pothead", but what you should see is someone who has mental abilties far beyond your own. I'll be that guy on the 5.11 next to you. Peace.

And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today.

But hey, a bad day on the rock beats a good day in the office . . .

JL

Wow. Saxfiend has 'those' says too?!? I feel heroic at the moment.

I know you've accomplished more than he in your extensive climbing career.