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cracklover
Jun 29, 2009, 4:24 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused.
And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?"
Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go.
Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up.
And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed.
Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either.
And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.
Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch."
So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge.
Sigh...
Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch!
Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack?
GO
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knieveltech
Jun 29, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #2 of 92
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1431
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cracklover wrote: Finally after weeks of monsoon, the forecast is perfect. You've researched the climb you want to do, and it's well within your ability, but should provide quite enough of that special something to keep your attention focused. And yet... you have a hard time dragging your sorry ass out of bed. Perhaps you've slept poorly? Or something is just off somehow? You drag your feet getting going, and once at the crag, you feel slightly uneasy. You make some excuse like "why is it so quiet here? Yesterday there were tons of people. Is there something bad going to happen? Did I misread the weather forecast?" Arriving at your objective (in this case, the West Buttress of the Bastille) you set down your stuff, size up the line, look at the guidebook, and... whoa - that looks harder than I thought! Nevertheless, you rack up, set an anchor for your belayer lest you rip both of off you off for a very unpleasant ride, and up you go. Only to come back down. I climbed up only 10 feet, set gear for the traverse, and chickened out. Three times. Each time fiddling with the gear before the traverse, feeling the moves, thinking about the sequence. Then back down to the ground, walk around, scope out the traverse from the ground. Go back up. And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed. Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either. And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces. Fortunately, my gf saved the day - "Hey, she said, there's a climb on Wind Tower I've been wanting to do. I could do the first pitch at 5.6, and you could do the 5.7 second pitch." So off we went. It was fairly easy, but that didn't keep me from going the wrong way at the end, missing the bolted rap station. So next we did several hundred feet of sideways sketchy 5.5 simulclimbing - because I was convinced we were on the walkoff ledge that was, in fact, 30 feet below us. I kept thinking that at any minute we'd find ourselves on that broad ledge. Sigh... Am I actually a solid 5.10 or 11 trad climber? No way. In fact, I can't climb 5.7 without screwing the pooch! Maybe it was a "one off", just "one of those days." Maybe next time I go out I'll remember how to climb. Otherwise, anyone want to buy a used rack? GO
Nice to know it isn't just me.
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chadnsc
Jun 29, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #3 of 92
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449
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Happens to me more than I'd care to admit. If my blood sugar (I'm diabetic) is off at all I just don't lead well. . .
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boymeetsrock
Jun 29, 2009, 5:05 PM
Post #4 of 92
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
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I can distinctly remember one of those days.
My partner and I were up early to get a few pitches before work/ class. I had a 5.9 in mind. At my trad lead limit at the time, but a straight forward and short line that had been on my list for a while.
I let my partner lead the bolted 5.8 next to my climb. Then I followed him for a warm up.
'Damn, this feels harder than it should,' I thought to myself. I thought about it for a little while but decided to go for the 5.9 anyway.
Climbed up a bit set a piece and promptly slipped of to be caught by that small nut. Then a quick shake out and I was back at it. Got up to the end of the crux this time with two more cams added to the system below me now. When all of a sudden... Airborne. I'll never forget the sight of both of those Sh*tty cams pulling out together. About an hour later I was in the hospital with a dislocated shoulder and a traumatized partner. (dude climbs WAY harder than me now, btw).
I told you that story to tell you this... I commend you for listening to your body/ mind. You adjusted your goals for the day and still found a climb to do. While you made some "mistakes" along that route, you had already made the better choice and listed to yourself and chose a more appropriate objective for the day. Perhaps that is one of the biggest challenges in climbing; picking an appropriate climb for your physical and mental abilities "right now".
Speaking from the experience of having a diminished (for a long time) lead head; you will get back on the horse in good time. A guy with your experience doesn't just loose his "head" overnight. Sometimes the moon pulls us to hard. Sometimes we drink too much. There are many reasons we loose our mental focus at times but, "they always come back" (tm) !!
Otherwise, I'll PM my address for you to send your rack over. 
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mturner
Jun 29, 2009, 5:16 PM
Post #5 of 92
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Registered: Dec 17, 2005
Posts: 980
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Been there far too many times. It's those days that I just try to stay thankful that I'm getting outdoors regardless of how I'm climbing.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 29, 2009, 5:40 PM
Post #6 of 92
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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Yes
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bill413
Jun 29, 2009, 5:57 PM
Post #7 of 92
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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cracklover wrote: And finally I admitted it. I don't have it in me today. Tail between my legs, I slink away to look for something more my speed. Well, how about 5.8 instead of 5.9? Just 100 yards away is a "starred" 5.8 in the guidebook. After 1/2 hour of considering it, I decide I don't like the looks of it either. And further cementing the undeniable truth that I have no balls at all, there's a climber on the 5.11 next to the 5.8 I'm looking at, who has 40 feet of runout between pieces.
Ignore the other climber - they do what they do. It's their head, not yours.
I commend your decision to listen to where you are in head space.
I once spent several months getting my head back because of a fall I didn't think I should have taken. It'll come - probably quickly for you.
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sknowlton
Jun 29, 2009, 5:57 PM
Post #8 of 92
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Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 99
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mturner wrote: Been there far too many times. It's those days that I just try to stay thankful that I'm getting outdoors regardless of how I'm climbing.
Amen to that.
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chilli
Jun 29, 2009, 6:21 PM
Post #9 of 92
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Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
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been there (and glad i'm not the only one). some time ago we went out on day one, got shut down after a pitch by a hell of a thunder/lightning storm. went out on day 2, no more than 20ft up and i KNEW i just didn't have my head right that day. we ended up on some short easy routes, just trying to enjoy the outdoors a bit. now every trad lead, regardless of how easy, starts with some mental prep to get my head right and deep breathing. my gf calls it pranayama. i just call it necessary sketch-prevention.
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mike_devildog
Jun 29, 2009, 6:48 PM
Post #10 of 92
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Registered: Sep 9, 2005
Posts: 111
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This is one of the best forum posts I have seen in awhile!...
I have recently had to accept the idea that I am a weekend warrior climber ONLY!! On occasion I will get out locally during the week to boulder or some other type of excercise! It was about 2 weekends ago where I was woken up to this title of weekend warrior., I was super excited to get down to summersville, WV to climb..and just crush routes since the weather had been so crappy for quite sometime, and it didnt really allow me to climb!
Well after warming up on 3 climbs on Long wall I was already pushed to my limit when it came to stamina..and finger strength! I thought to myself, What the shit is going on? I use to burn through these routes with no problem, all these random thoughts were going through my head..well mike you have been riding a desk now for a year!, your local climbing spot has been closed now for over a year!, did i drink to much coffee?, did I miss my morning dump? All these thoughts were flying through my head trying to find an excuse why I was already spent, and we had only climbed 3 routes!
We then proceeded to head to Perot wall, where many of you know they are all slightly overhanging pumpy routes with hard moves to clip the shuts. Well as you might have guessed I was getting SHUTDOWN by routes in the 5.11-10b range not even being able to clip a draw on the shuts! Having lost my religion, and all faith in any climbing ability that I thought I once had my day was over mentally!
Since last weekend I have had to accept the fact I most likely will not be as good as I once was due to my life schedule! This past weekend, as in 2days ago I went trad climbing staying in the 5.6-5.9 range thorougly enjoying myself, and just appreciating getting out in the beautiful sunny weather! Sometimes the head isnt always there, especially since I dont lead climb every weekend much anymore, or the regularity of climbing that keeps us feeling strong!
Im currently trying to teach myself to just enjoy each opportunity that I get to get out and climb! Hopefully I learn quickly..Everyone enjoy your time spent climbing..Peace
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pfwein
Jun 29, 2009, 6:55 PM
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We call it a "high gravity day." Nothing to worry about until they all start being high gravity days. Then I guess you've got to accept that's how good you are. But at least climbing is more predictable than golf--that is truly a game where I have no idea how I'll play on any given day, ranging from halfway decent to rank beginner.
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iknowfear
Jun 29, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #12 of 92
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670
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yes.
recently, i bailed on a 6a+ (sport), that I had done several times... My mind just totally shut down...
climbers equivalent of a bad hair day...
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angry
Jun 29, 2009, 7:57 PM
Post #13 of 92
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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You were probably just worked from the approach.
I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.
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climbingnoise
Jun 29, 2009, 8:25 PM
Post #14 of 92
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Posts: 78
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great posts. we've all been there. useful opportunity to separate your climbing from your ego. on those days when the optimal balance between challenge and comfort is a number grade or two lower the only thing preventing you from enjoying the climbing is your ego trying to define itself in relation to irrelevant reference points, that other dude, the past you, etc.
fuk 8a.nu 
when its the right time you know it
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sungam
Jun 29, 2009, 9:43 PM
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chadnsc wrote: Happens to me more than I'd care to admit.
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AntinJ
Jun 29, 2009, 11:09 PM
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Posts: 475
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Diddo - especially when you get first-climb-of-the-day-itis.
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k.l.k
Jun 29, 2009, 11:17 PM
Post #17 of 92
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Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190
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cracklover wrote: You ever have one of those days?
No. Never.
You're just getting old.
How much for the rack?
(This post was edited by k.l.k on Jun 29, 2009, 11:36 PM)
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petsfed
Jun 29, 2009, 11:50 PM
Post #18 of 92
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angry wrote: You were probably just worked from the approach. I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.
Yeah, that thing is a bitch.
I've taken on a 5.5(!) sport route (!!) on a bad day before. Some days, gravity is just a son of a bitch.
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angry
Jun 30, 2009, 12:02 AM
Post #19 of 92
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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petsfed wrote: angry wrote: You were probably just worked from the approach. I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August. Yeah, that thing is a bitch.
Bout time someone recognized my genius. Site full of fucking n00bs and Californians.
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k.l.k
Jun 30, 2009, 12:07 AM
Post #20 of 92
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angry wrote: petsfed wrote: angry wrote: You were probably just worked from the approach. I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August. Yeah, that thing is a bitch. Bout time someone recognized my genius. Site full of fucking n00bs and Californians.
stfu n00b
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reno
Jun 30, 2009, 2:33 AM
Post #21 of 92
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angry wrote: You were probably just worked from the approach. I've been trail running and carrying a heavy pack around the platte and RMNP this summer. I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August.
It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.
Brutal, it is. Brutal. Especially so if you have to park in the lower parking lot.
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wonderwoman
Jun 30, 2009, 2:59 AM
Post #22 of 92
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Boy, do I know what you're talking about! Josh tells me that I have extreme highs and extreme lows in climbing. I am up & down in both the literal & the head space sense, like a manic depressive!
I think that you have to accept that somedays you just feel 'off'. But you also have to accept & live with the climbing decisions that you make. Forgive yourself, move on, & realize that the rock will be there later.
But don't let one instance let you question your talent, ability or ruin your enjoyment as a climber. At the end of the day 'it is what it is', but the next climbing day will be completely different!
Now I have to reread this to myself!!!
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coolcat83
Jun 30, 2009, 3:13 AM
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yes, had one today, hot day, had been climbing hard outside on tr and in the gym for several sessions in a row, and lead some trad yesterday, today by the time i got to the climbs I was tired, just didn't feel up to leading anything, so I handed over the rack..to a new leader..and she just ran up it, I felt pumped just following. Some days I have it, the balance, laybacks, smears, confidence. Some days I feel shakey even following a route if it traverses or I can swing into something if i peel off.
But it's usually enjoyable, and my ego survives.
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rtwilli4
Jun 30, 2009, 6:05 AM
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You've just described a pretty normal day of trad climbing for me... accept my g/f would have freaked out if I asked her to simul-climb and doesn't even like climbing with me to begin with.
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sungam
Jun 30, 2009, 5:58 PM
Post #25 of 92
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reno wrote: angry wrote: I'm hoping to be able to do the approach to the Bastille without getting too tired to climb by August. It's quite possible that I'm the only person to ever bivy on that approach.
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