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caughtinside
Nov 28, 2012, 5:01 AM
Post #94376 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. I actually miss driving stick. My family doesn't have any cars that are anymore.
Our, well, the loyerette's new ride is stick. They had 19 of them on the lot but only one was manual. She's a stickler, she wanted the manual.
I prefer manual, but it absolutely sucks ass in stop and go traffic.
Dirvish, not sure how handy the e-brake is on the Taco, but there's a good trick where you set the brake on a hilll while stopped. When it's your turn, ease the car into gear first, then slowly release the brake. I never needed it till I started driving in SF in a manual.
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caughtinside
Nov 28, 2012, 5:02 AM
Post #94377 of 105309
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woo!
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caughtinside
Nov 28, 2012, 5:03 AM
Post #94378 of 105309
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NF.
Bracing for the big storm up here, supposed to rain 5" in the next 5 days. No climbing this weekend looks like.
Good surf yesterday am, and a great gym sesh this am. I never knew I was a morning person.
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caughtinside
Nov 28, 2012, 5:05 AM
Post #94379 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: drivel wrote: granite_grrl wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. The pillow thing is funny. I think it took me a while to get fully comfortable driving standard. Now I'm only bothered by it when I'm doing other distracting things behind the wheel (that I shouldn't be doing anyway....texting or talking on your cell is illeagal in Ontario) or in stop and go traffic. There’s one stoplight that I had to make a left turn at, and was 3rd or 4th in line, and had to do some forward-creepin that I accomplished without stalling on the way to campus, and I was feeling pretty proud of myself. But then I stalled out a bunch of times trying to navigate backing out of a parking spot and then going forward. And then there was a stop sign on a hill where somebody pulled way too close to the back of me, and I had to yell BACK UP OR GO AROUND out my window. When that person went around, I had a whole carlength before the next person… who took the moment that I started rolling backwards trying to start the car as the perfect moment to accelerate to go around me, and almost hit me. Fuckers. I hate people more than usual today. Painful! I would have done way worse that that. Granted, my view of the "trusty old Takoma" is skewed by the misery of being sandwiched between Camhat and Hefe in 100 F heat, with no air conditioner, the aroma of turkey farms, and the clutch that made another bruise on my knee every time cammy shifted gears... But still, I would hate to drive that thing! Ewe ghuys leave Old Red out of this! He's a trooper! An old soldier! Heart of gold! with an Infinite Improbability Drive?
heh. good won.
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Nov 28, 2012, 5:22 AM
Post #94380 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. I actually miss driving stick. My family doesn't have any cars that are anymore. Our, well, the loyerette's new ride is stick. They had 19 of them on the lot but only one was manual. She's a stickler, she wanted the manual. I prefer manual, but it absolutely sucks ass in stop and go traffic. Dirvish, not sure how handy the e-brake is on the Taco, but there's a good trick where you set the brake on a hilll while stopped. When it's your turn, ease the car into gear first, then slowly release the brake. I never needed it till I started driving in SF in a manual.
I miss the jeep, but not douche bag Dave.
You know that with whatever hills she's having issues with, it's nowhere near SF hills. She can work them just fine by manipulating hte gas and clutch. She'll get used to it.
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 28, 2012, 6:46 AM
Post #94381 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: caughtinside wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. I actually miss driving stick. My family doesn't have any cars that are anymore. Our, well, the loyerette's new ride is stick. They had 19 of them on the lot but only one was manual. She's a stickler, she wanted the manual. I prefer manual, but it absolutely sucks ass in stop and go traffic. Dirvish, not sure how handy the e-brake is on the Taco, but there's a good trick where you set the brake on a hilll while stopped. When it's your turn, ease the car into gear first, then slowly release the brake. I never needed it till I started driving in SF in a manual. I miss the jeep, but not douche bag Dave. You know that with whatever hills she's having issues with, it's nowhere near SF hills. She can work them just fine by manipulating hte gas and clutch. She'll get used to it.
The thing about just starting to drive manuals is that you become acutely aware of where the hills are at intersections and you either avoid them or ingrain a technique that is unique to each intersection that gets you through it. I've always been a fan of clutch with the left foot and gas/brake being simultaneously operated by the right. Though if I had a vehicle with a pull-style e-brake I probably would have learned that trick. I assume that camhead's red truck is an older style with the e-brake on the floor by the clutch.
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granite_grrl
Nov 28, 2012, 1:24 PM
Post #94382 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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caughtinside wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. I actually miss driving stick. My family doesn't have any cars that are anymore. Our, well, the loyerette's new ride is stick. They had 19 of them on the lot but only one was manual. She's a stickler, she wanted the manual. I prefer manual, but it absolutely sucks ass in stop and go traffic. Dirvish, not sure how handy the e-brake is on the Taco, but there's a good trick where you set the brake on a hilll while stopped. When it's your turn, ease the car into gear first, then slowly release the brake. I never needed it till I started driving in SF in a manual.
I have practiced this technique in my driveway but I've never gotten good enough at it to make it useful.
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camhead
Nov 28, 2012, 2:24 PM
Post #94383 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: caughtinside wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. I actually miss driving stick. My family doesn't have any cars that are anymore. Our, well, the loyerette's new ride is stick. They had 19 of them on the lot but only one was manual. She's a stickler, she wanted the manual. I prefer manual, but it absolutely sucks ass in stop and go traffic. Dirvish, not sure how handy the e-brake is on the Taco, but there's a good trick where you set the brake on a hilll while stopped. When it's your turn, ease the car into gear first, then slowly release the brake. I never needed it till I started driving in SF in a manual. I have practiced this technique in my driveway but I've never gotten good enough at it to make it useful.
I've never had to use the e-brake trick. It might work for dribble, and the one on Old Red is the pull-style thing up at hip level, not on the floor. But, it does not really engage until it is pulled all the way out, so not sure if it would be that easy. And the hills in C-bus are really not that bad at all.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 28, 2012, 6:37 PM
Post #94385 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Oh, and as for Lincoln, Lena... too lazy to go back upthread, but you were asking if the legislative gymnastics and backstabbing were accurate? Definitely, and the main historical consultant of that movie, Doris Kearns Goodwin, is pretty legit. I don't know details of the 13th amendment passing, but similar shady tactics went down during the election of 1876, too. I still get a kick out of yelling "You embarrass GOD, Sir!" to people. TLJ was a badass Thaddeus Stevens.
I actually found out that he has written a little companion guide to the movie, explaining some of these things. Definitely planning to get it.
It is a fine line to walk, between artistic license and history.
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carabiner96
Nov 28, 2012, 6:43 PM
Post #94386 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
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Went to the gym last night for the first time in years, and it was a Paradox gathering so there were people there I knew, versus one of those Meetups that I never ended up going to because I'm shy. I got to Boulder early but spend 45 minutes trying to find, then park at the WRONG gym, only to find out the gym we were meeting at was right off the highway and super easy to get to. I first went to Movement, which seems fancy and flashy (iPad waivers? Hairspray for sale in cliff bar case?) but ended up at Boulder Rock Club...vibes were different, and I think BRC is more my style. People were strong but laid back - Ok, there was one hipster complete with slouchy beanie and moustache that was 'speed rapping' a TR with a figure 8...
I figured out that they're open til 10, and are 20 minutes from my office. I get out at 6, could scoot up there for an hour or two and head home just in time for the traffic to go away. They have a butt ton of those auto belays, so I'm toying with the idea of getting a membership - my gym in VT was a pain to find partners for and I hate bouldering, and they didn't have any auto belays. It's $17 a pop versus $63 a month, so if I only go once a week it's worth it. The climbs there were really well set. I wasn't feeling very strong (obviously) but the climbs there forced me to pay attention even on the 5.7's, versus just being a too-easy jug haul.
Got to meet some new gimps too, so outside of the harness soreness in my crotch, it was an awesome night. Werk tomorrow!
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carabiner96
Nov 28, 2012, 6:48 PM
Post #94387 of 105309
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I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke.
Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food?
He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block.
RONG ANSWER!!!
Needless to say, he is now coming home for lunch.
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drivel
Nov 28, 2012, 6:53 PM
Post #94388 of 105309
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: caughtinside wrote: climbs4fun wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbs4fun wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: oh, yeah, Lena, I guess your zend of Fictitious Racist Jebus was sort of lost amidst teh butthurtz, Lispaulhurtz, and headhurtz (I'm a bit perplexed their on how one goes about doing the Aquaduct Pocket and then falling off of the top). Gud werk ... what's the next proj? Yes, Lena got the only zend of the trip. Technically, ewe guise did both onflashzend Return of Geoff Beene, no? #5 Since Cam is posting, I'm guessing the surgery went well. Shit, forgot to update. I did not get cutzed yet. Doc thought my foot was still a bit too swollen. Going into surgery on Thursday morning. But, I did cancel all my classes this week. I taught yesterday, and refused the campus police department's charity golf cart rides, too. Turns out that hobbling around on crutches is actually great cardio! Hobbling around on crutches gets really old after a while. driving stick shift is gonna get really old, and I dont think it's going to take that long. complete with sitting against a pillow because I'm not tall enough to fully depress the clutch otherwise. I actually miss driving stick. My family doesn't have any cars that are anymore. Our, well, the loyerette's new ride is stick. They had 19 of them on the lot but only one was manual. She's a stickler, she wanted the manual. I prefer manual, but it absolutely sucks ass in stop and go traffic. Dirvish, not sure how handy the e-brake is on the Taco, but there's a good trick where you set the brake on a hilll while stopped. When it's your turn, ease the car into gear first, then slowly release the brake. I never needed it till I started driving in SF in a manual. I have practiced this technique in my driveway but I've never gotten good enough at it to make it useful. I've never had to use the e-brake trick. It might work for dribble, and the one on Old Red is the pull-style thing up at hip level, not on the floor. But, it does not really engage until it is pulled all the way out, so not sure if it would be that easy. And the hills in C-bus are really not that bad at all.
that one was bad enough to make me roll backwards kind of alarmingly. But most are not that bad.
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caughtinside
Nov 28, 2012, 7:50 PM
Post #94389 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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carabiner96 wrote: I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke. Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food? He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block. RONG ANSWER!!! Needless to say, he is now coming home for lunch.
That is Rong. You let the guy go out to lunch with a coworker.
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snoopy138
Nov 28, 2012, 8:35 PM
Post #94390 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke. Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food? He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block. RONG ANSWER!!! Needless to say, he is now coming home for lunch. That is Rong. You let the guy go out to lunch with a coworker.
gotta get to hang owt with teh gnu coworkers. and thai fud is cheap.
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granite_grrl
Nov 28, 2012, 8:46 PM
Post #94391 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke. Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food? He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block. RONG ANSWER!!! Needless to say, he is now coming home for lunch. That is Rong. You let the guy go out to lunch with a coworker.
Yup, new jorb, he's got to make those connections with coworkers.
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carabiner96
Nov 28, 2012, 9:00 PM
Post #94392 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke. Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food? He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block. RONG ANSWER!!! Needless to say, he is now coming home for lunch. That is Rong. You let the guy go out to lunch with a coworker.
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snoopy138
Nov 29, 2012, 1:11 AM
Post #94393 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: I also had to bust some lumberjack chops today. We spent about a week in Telluride and come home to an empty kitchen. Go to the store, and $150 later are fully stocked, included lunches - WHICH is important because Brian works right across the street, and since I haven't been working we're super broke. Last night while I'm climbing, he goes out to a moderately priced dinner with a friend. Today, he sends me a text saying he has a meeting at 12 so he won't be home for lunch. I reply, Want me to bring you food? He says, No, coworker and I are just going to the Thai Grill across the block. RONG ANSWER!!! Needless to say, he is now coming home for lunch. That is Rong. You let the guy go out to lunch with a coworker. Yup, new jorb, he's got to make those connections with coworkers.
you've got a connection with my GU right their.
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drivel
Nov 29, 2012, 2:18 PM
Post #94394 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
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sensitive and personal informations! in grupe!
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climbingtrash
Nov 30, 2012, 1:29 AM
Post #94395 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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caughtinside wrote: It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn. No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.
knoh wut ewe call a bunch of d00ds in a hot tub...sausage stew.
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climbingtrash
Nov 30, 2012, 1:33 AM
Post #94396 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report. Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too. We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz. Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list. So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber. It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge. Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down. Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on. Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?" Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!" They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day. I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot. Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck. Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops. Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means. So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh. At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak. That is awl. TLDR damn, that shit blowz. won't even be able to climb teh steep shitz? I guess you will at least be able to get gud at teh hangboreding. I basically failzed all over jtree, but did not injure myself in the process at least.
Yore tails of failure are entertaining no one d0nny.
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climbingtrash
Nov 30, 2012, 1:38 AM
Post #94397 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: Tried a new bolted 5.12, got shut down on the very top by a long move from an undercling to a crimp that is bigger than my armspan with no intermediates in between. Kind of a bummer, becuase the rest of the route is super-fun, and not even 5.12. That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds? that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.
Off root? Ewe knoes that teh gym rulez guidelines don't count in teh out of doors.
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climbingtrash
Nov 30, 2012, 1:44 AM
Post #94398 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report. Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too. We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz. Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list. So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber. It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge. Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down. Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on. Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?" Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!" They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day. I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot. Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck. Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops. Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means. So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh. At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak. That is awl. TLDR damn, that shit blowz. won't even be able to climb teh steep shitz? I guess you will at least be able to get gud at teh hangboreding. I basically failzed all over jtree, but did not injure myself in the process at least. That's kind of how the creke went.
teh greenplates harshed yore mellow?
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climbingtrash
Nov 30, 2012, 1:46 AM
Post #94399 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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dr_feelgood wrote: I'd crank out a report, but I have a stack of papers to grade by tomorrow and I am only through M. Also gotta read all them books I didn't read by tomorrow.
git back to werk magit!
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climbingtrash
Nov 30, 2012, 1:48 AM
Post #94400 of 105309
(4270 views)
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
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herm...
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