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granite_grrl


Nov 24, 2012, 8:32 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?


granite_grrl


Nov 24, 2012, 8:37 AM
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Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Walk in!


drivel


Nov 24, 2012, 8:49 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Walk in!


yeah, what camhead couldn't do.


Partner camhead


Nov 24, 2012, 8:55 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.


Partner camhead


Nov 24, 2012, 8:59 AM
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Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Walk in!


yeah, what camhead couldn't do.

MadMadMadMadMadMadMad


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Nov 24, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

Damn, Paul.


That's a shitty injury. What's the heal time? Do you know yet or are you going to have to wait for the prognoses post-surgery? Is your bouldering co-op conducive to training while wearing an air-cast?

Hope you heal well.


climbs4fun
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Nov 24, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different


climbs4fun
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Nov 24, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Oops. On re-read, our injuries aren't all that different. I severed all the tendons on the top of the right foot.


Partner camhead


Nov 24, 2012, 11:49 AM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Oops. On re-read, our injuries aren't all that different. I severed all the tendons on the top of the right foot.

Piss.

And yeah, Ecop, my co-op gym will be very conducive to the recovery process. Hangboarding, super steep campus routes, etc.


climbs4fun
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Nov 24, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Oops. On re-read, our injuries aren't all that different. I severed all the tendons on the top of the right foot.

Piss.

And yeah, Ecop, my co-op gym will be very conducive to the recovery process. Hangboarding, super steep campus routes, etc.

ok, here is the one long-term complaint that I have and you can talk to your surgeon about. I have a lot of scar tissue in there that tends to pull my smaller two toes upward. But this also is a bit painful on the top of the foot between my toes and ankle. It's very taught and it will get a fiery pain. This is also where the cuts happened.

Now the things that are different. My first surgery was the night of the wreck. So the cuts to the tendons weren't clean. They were jagged. There was/is a lot of nerve damage. So you may not have the same experiences that I have. I hope that you do not. I can't climb crack at all anymore and it used to be my favorite thing. The pain is intolerable in that foot.

When is the surgery to fix it?


Partner camhead


Nov 24, 2012, 12:41 PM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Oops. On re-read, our injuries aren't all that different. I severed all the tendons on the top of the right foot.

Piss.

And yeah, Ecop, my co-op gym will be very conducive to the recovery process. Hangboarding, super steep campus routes, etc.

ok, here is the one long-term complaint that I have and you can talk to your surgeon about. I have a lot of scar tissue in there that tends to pull my smaller two toes upward. But this also is a bit painful on the top of the foot between my toes and ankle. It's very taught and it will get a fiery pain. This is also where the cuts happened.

Now the things that are different. My first surgery was the night of the wreck. So the cuts to the tendons weren't clean. They were jagged. There was/is a lot of nerve damage. So you may not have the same experiences that I have. I hope that you do not. I can't climb crack at all anymore and it used to be my favorite thing. The pain is intolerable in that foot.

When is the surgery to fix it?

Surgery is Monday or Tues morning, not sure which yet. I have not had any nerve damage that I know of; not a lot of pain, but I can feel everything in the foot, too.

Did you get pins in your foot? My options are for pins, or what they call "fusion" of the tendons back to the bone, I believe.


climbs4fun
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Nov 24, 2012, 1:02 PM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different

Oops. On re-read, our injuries aren't all that different. I severed all the tendons on the top of the right foot.

Piss.

And yeah, Ecop, my co-op gym will be very conducive to the recovery process. Hangboarding, super steep campus routes, etc.

ok, here is the one long-term complaint that I have and you can talk to your surgeon about. I have a lot of scar tissue in there that tends to pull my smaller two toes upward. But this also is a bit painful on the top of the foot between my toes and ankle. It's very taught and it will get a fiery pain. This is also where the cuts happened.

Now the things that are different. My first surgery was the night of the wreck. So the cuts to the tendons weren't clean. They were jagged. There was/is a lot of nerve damage. So you may not have the same experiences that I have. I hope that you do not. I can't climb crack at all anymore and it used to be my favorite thing. The pain is intolerable in that foot.

When is the surgery to fix it?

Surgery is Monday or Tues morning, not sure which yet. I have not had any nerve damage that I know of; not a lot of pain, but I can feel everything in the foot, too.

Did you get pins in your foot? My options are for pins, or what they call "fusion" of the tendons back to the bone, I believe.

Nope. No pins. The tendons in my foot never came away from their insertion points. Mine were severed. So they sewed them back together.

I don't remember feeling anything in the foot. I was on so much morphine and percocet. Keep in mind that they repaired mine within hours of the accident. Once they put me in the ambulance and were able to get a line in, I was not really coherent after that. I only remember snippets of that night.


granite_grrl


Nov 25, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Sucks about the foot! At least it's getting into the off season for you guys. How long will the recovery be?

Yeah, other than getting injured in July, this is one of the best times of the year to get sidelined. Although I was really looking forward to a strong T-wall/Chatt season this year, which probably won't happen now.

As for recovery, I'm not sure, and am making a list of specific questions to ask the foot specialist on Monday before I go under teh knife. Recovery could be as short as 6 weeks, as long as 3 months. Right now, I'm def. planning on starting a hangboard cycle around mid-december, but have no idea when I'll be able to truly get back into it. Searched a bit on the prodge about foot injuries, and I guess that atrophy and weakening is going to be a serious concern.

The final thing I'm a bit concerned with (which I'm sure Beccs can relate to) is that I have no idea what this is going to do to my trad head. I've gotten a pretty good head together over the past few years, being willing to risk big falls and even some minor gear pullzings (the big fall onto the 0 tcu that Donnie saw me do a few years ago is an example), but perhaps I've gotten a tiny bit TOO cavalier about trad falls. I'm definitely going to focus mostly just on hard, safe, steep cracks in the future, but hope I won't start melting down at the sight of ledge falls when I get back into it.

atrophy and weakening happens very quickly. Unsure My right foot will never be the same, but thankfully, your injuries are very different
I second the atrophy issue. My leg/hip didn't start recovering until I got that hardware removed (4 years post accident I think).


lena_chita
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Nov 25, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

Yeah, totally not the trip I anticipated. Again, really sorry about your foot. Let's hangboard together (virtually) this winter.

Anyway, update on the Lena front:

Heffe was miserable from the get-go, prepped the scene weeks ago saying that he is not planning on climbing much, and hatez the Reds in the first place.

Then he got sick two weeks ago. Maple trip-- remember, anyone? Got thankfully better, but probably overdid it the weekend before Thanksgiving with a lot of yard work and came down with another nasty cold, just in time for the trip. He thought initially that it was the leftover from the old cold, but things kept getting worse and worse.

Wednesday- -Solar Collector. Hung my own draws, dealt with sick Heffe. After 3 climbs-- 2 warmups and BEHJ, it was too hot to climb there.
Highlight of the day-- got to clean and throw 3 sponsored PETZL draws to Team PETZL, because they didn't want to climb the climbz in the sun, after going up the 3 bolts of BEHJ.
Tried Brightside, Heffe was still not impressed. Went to Muir Valley and climbed a bunch of random stuff, including a really really cool 5.11. Heffe was not happy. Went back to the cabin, to hear about all the injuriez. The evening was kinda subdued.

Thursday-- got an early morning start, with miserable Heffe, and Clamhead's friend Ande. Two goes on BEHJ, both one-hangs with the same stupid mistake that i have never made before. Then the rock was baking in the hot sun, I gave up in disgust and went back to cabin to cook dinner, leaving the draws hanging. Dinner was pretty freaking awesome, food was delicious, but there was too much of it.

Friday-- took forever to pack stuff, and then unpack again at the Clanderson cabin. Then it started raining. Left very unhappy Heffe (who, it turns out, wanted to leave on Friday, but failed to communicate it) at the cabin and went climbing with Ande and Janderson at Drive-by. It should have been called the ZOO instead. 50 adults, 20 kids, but thankfully, no dogs.
Waited forever for warmups, watched someone clean Whipstocking on rappel, with two "fireman belayers". the epic took 30 min. Then I finally got to climb it, and discovered two carabiners on top. Yep, the guy rappelled from two carabiners on top of the sport route. Awesome! There were people sporting a triple rack of cowbells there, too.
Tried a new bolted 5.12, got shut down on the very top by a long move from an undercling to a crimp that is bigger than my armspan with no intermediates in between. Kind of a bummer, becuase the rest of the route is super-fun, and not even 5.12.
Janderson flashed it, as well as two other 5.12s. Then watched a 12yo kid flash Dirty Smelly Hippie (5.13b). I think he also flashed Kaleidoscope the same day (13c), but not quite sure, might have been a redpoint. Went back to the cabin to find very miserable Heffe.

Saturday-- the temps plunged. It was supposed to be 37F and sunny, but the sun didn't get the message, and the temps forgot to stop falling. Started the day by winterizing Clanderson cabin in 28F.
Took forever, but I can't complain. My part of the job was to keep the kidlings fed and happy, instead of cleaning out the water cistern Shaun and Ande got the brunt of it, the Ande went skydiving, and Shaun headed out climbing we Janderson. We finally got going by 12:30, all bundled up, with hot water bottles, handwarmers, and the like.
Drove to Solar Collector, because the draws were still hanging. Got surprisingly warm on a hike, even though the temps were in low 30s, walked the warmups and didn't even get numb or pumped, then sent BEHJ. Didn't seem like a big deal, the friction was awesome. I almost flubbed the sequence at the very top, past the crux, but didn't. Sun finally got the message and peeked out from the clouds, too.
I was happy to just bask in the sun and soak up my gloriez while I watched Nadya also send BEHJ, but Heffe had a meltdown at the thought of hanging out there for the rest of the day, and finally communicated his extreme unhappiness about me, my happiness, BEHJ, Solar Collector, Red, Clanderson cabin, and the rest of life. So we packed up and left.

Sunday-- I am wasting it here.


Partner camhead


Nov 25, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
I sent BEHJ, and Hefe was teh butthurt.

I shortened your story a bit.

Nice job on the prodge, I was already getting ready to tell you that have no intention on going back to Solar Collector next year.

No surprise about Drive-by, that place is to the Red as the Red is to the rest of the sport climbing world. Great rock, but beyond a shitshow every time I've been there.


caughtinside


Nov 25, 2012, 8:47 PM
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It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn.

No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.


Partner camhead


Nov 26, 2012, 3:29 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn.

No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.

Heh, LisPaul injury. Is that like Les Paul? I did some searching on this site about those injuries, and I guess JayTee had one way back when, so I got some info from him on recovery, etc.

Speaking of wine, yesterday I ordered teh dribble to bring me a glass of my Pinot Noir, and he brought me a glass of our shitty box wine instead. Embarrassingly, it took me several sips to ascertain that it was the cheap stuff. BUSTED!


lena_chita
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Nov 26, 2012, 9:02 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
I sent BEHJ, and Hefe was teh butthurt.

I shortened your story a bit.

Yes, pretty much. I had no intention of causing hurtz, but Hefe doesn't know about Jack's climbing rules.



camhead wrote:
Nice job on the prodge, I was already getting ready to tell you that have no intention on going back to Solar Collector next year.

Oh yeah, like you aren't going to ever get on the Force again... keep deluding yourself.




In other news, went to see Lincoln yesterday with a friend. It was awesome. Really wish I had a history professor doing the commentary.

Do you know how authentic are the speeches? Not Lincoln's but the debate speeches, all the "dimwitted nincompoops" and other AWESOME insults.

And how much is actually known about the details of the vote-buying and backstage things? How much of it is historically accurate, in terms of who voted for and against, and how it was accomplished?

Also, i thought at some point Lincoln said something along the lines of " I want this amendment on my table by this date", and I was confused, bc the president doesn't sign a constitutional amendment, does he? Unless this changed, or I misunderstood.

Anyway, still awesome!


snoopy138


Nov 26, 2012, 9:28 AM
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camhead wrote:
Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR

damn, that shit blowz. won't even be able to climb teh steep shitz? I guess you will at least be able to get gud at teh hangboreding.

I basically failzed all over jtree, but did not injure myself in the process at least.


snoopy138


Nov 26, 2012, 9:39 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Tried a new bolted 5.12, got shut down on the very top by a long move from an undercling to a crimp that is bigger than my armspan with no intermediates in between. Kind of a bummer, becuase the rest of the route is super-fun, and not even 5.12.

That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds?

that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.


snoopy138


Nov 26, 2012, 9:47 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn.

No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.

will be doing teh fat and weke thing up in Socak wine country next weke end. this weekend we had a grupe of 10 or so bail down to me, teh gf, teh 2xasiant, and a gym n00b (3 climbers = fewer rowtz).

got out thursday, no sites at all, so crashed at the pit and got up early to find a site in jumbo (not sure why, but apparently people were leaving on friday morning).

had to wait around for t3h asiant and n00b to show up while teh gf drove into palm springs ... soloed teh eye, failzed on some hvcg bouldering. when they showed up, went to saddle rock and took a CI/Suze suggestion to go do where have all the cowboys gone? onzent it, that 2nd pitch is pretty gud. gud jorb with teh bolting to keep the rope away from the loose flakes.

also did Space Mountain, a not-so-well bolted rowt up there. bolts in the middle of hard moves, around teh corner to cause rope darg ... plus half the holds are loose flakes. not deserving of the 3 stars it gets in the RTM guide.


snoopy138


Nov 26, 2012, 9:52 AM
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Saturday went to HVCG ... I failed to zend Blind Ambition, falling about 8 times before I figured out teh curx. Did successfully do the Official Route of the 1984 Olympics despite it baking in the sun, which is still a kickass route (had failed at the crux last time). Then got up to and clipped teh bolt on LST, but was too exhausted to make the 1.5 moves to get into the hand carck. then had to wait on top in the dark for half an hour for the lone rap anchor.

Sunday hiked up ryan mt. with teh gf in the morning, then went to Hound Rock/Baskerville Rock. BoF'd the Crescent Wrench ... was trying to find something to grab over the lip to pull over with when my foot slipped. fuck. also chickened out of the unprotected mantle on the Left Baskerville Carck. need to bring a carsh pad out there if I'm going to commit to that one, I think. Teh asiant onzent teh Right Baskerville and Tossed Green.


lena_chita
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Nov 26, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Tried a new bolted 5.12, got shut down on the very top by a long move from an undercling to a crimp that is bigger than my armspan with no intermediates in between. Kind of a bummer, becuase the rest of the route is super-fun, and not even 5.12.

That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds?

that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.


Next moves were not a problem, if I grabbed the draw instead of the undercling to reach the lowest left crimp, I was O.K. with the sequence from there to the anchors. But I couldn't get that crimp otherwise. I tried reaching down from the crimp once I had it, to see if I could get the undercling, thinking that maybe, even though it felt like full extension, I just was not extending enough when I was doing the upward move, but actually had the reach for it. Nope!

Janderson helpfully pointed out that another girl had figured out that move, while J. was belaying her, so maybe she had a suggestion. But unfortunately it turned out to be the classical case of "to a tall person, there is no real visible difference between someone who is 5'0" and someone who is 5'2" with +2 ape index". I had asked her what she did, and she did exactly the same thing I was doing -- except her fingertips reached. She is a strong climber, she was working Spank, which is a .13, but said that 12 felt just as hard for her, so she wasn't going to get back on it for a redpoint.

OTOH, a friend of J. found a knee bar rest at the last bolt, in that scoop where the undercling is, on his second go, and said it made the whole thing feel like easy 5.11 with his 5'10" reach.

Such cool plates at the bottom though! And the moves leading up to the last bolt were really neat.


caughtinside


Nov 26, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Tried a new bolted 5.12, got shut down on the very top by a long move from an undercling to a crimp that is bigger than my armspan with no intermediates in between. Kind of a bummer, becuase the rest of the route is super-fun, and not even 5.12.

That route is basically breakfast burrito to a boulder porblem ... was able to get it on try #3 ... I know the move you are talking about, though, and actually thought the crux was the next move to the anchors off those crimps. maybe you can work around that span by moving right earlier on some shitty holds?

that is also where I almost made some girl cry, because I mentioned to my friend that she was off route when she stemmed over onto F&B to rest before the crux section and her belayer overheard it. I think it must have been her first 12 or something.

That is awesome! Way to drag down her achievement. You ma'am, have failed to achieve...

what'd you climb in Josh?


caughtinside


Nov 26, 2012, 10:57 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
It's a damn shame about the lisPaul injury. Also sorry to hear doing a little too much yardwork dropped jefe into several heavy flow days. damn.

No climbing out here... just family bird meal. Then we cruised up to wine country and chilled in a cabin. Fine wine, good food, hot tub, fireplace. Fat and weak. Yee haw.

will be doing teh fat and weke thing up in Socak wine country next weke end. this weekend we had a grupe of 10 or so bail down to me, teh gf, teh 2xasiant, and a gym n00b (3 climbers = fewer rowtz).

got out thursday, no sites at all, so crashed at the pit and got up early to find a site in jumbo (not sure why, but apparently people were leaving on friday morning).

had to wait around for t3h asiant and n00b to show up while teh gf drove into palm springs ... soloed teh eye, failzed on some hvcg bouldering. when they showed up, went to saddle rock and took a CI/Suze suggestion to go do where have all the cowboys gone? onzent it, that 2nd pitch is pretty gud. gud jorb with teh bolting to keep the rope away from the loose flakes.

also did Space Mountain, a not-so-well bolted rowt up there. bolts in the middle of hard moves, around teh corner to cause rope darg ... plus half the holds are loose flakes. not deserving of the 3 stars it gets in the RTM guide.

Nice! WHATCG is one of the two best routes I did in josh last season, the other was Physical Grafitti.

That's funny about Space Mountain... I haven't done it but the Sooze and others rave about it.

If you're out that way again, the Presbyterian Toothpick and Episcopalian Dental Floss on that nearby pinnacle are pretty fun.

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