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phoenix
Mar 7, 2003, 1:54 AM
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The Honeymoon is Over has bolts...does that consitute trad? Perhaps it is more contingent on the number of bolts used...like the Bacher-Yerian isn't exactly a sport climb.
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yossarian
Mar 7, 2003, 3:17 AM
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In reply to: Located at Index, WA is a dead vertical/overhanging finger wrenching crack call City Park: this crack has only seen two lead ascents. Skinner rated it 13.C, but after 17 years and only two ascents...I'm thinking it might be a little harder. :shock: Has anyone heard of a third ascent?
Some would argue only one ascent as the 2nd had camhooks for feet.
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bigwalling
Mar 7, 2003, 6:59 AM
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I know a route that will go at 14a or so but I'm not telling. And it is a finger crack. :)
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rockprodigy
Mar 7, 2003, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: East Face of Monkey Face I thought was bolted by bouldering the moves out bolt to bolt???
There are no bolts on the East Face. What are you talking about? According to the guidebook (which hasn't been updated since '92). It was never actually redpointed, I believe it was "pink-pointed" (may have been yo-yo'd, I don't have my book with me, so I'm not positive) and Alan Watts never got around to doing the full redpoint, what with all the other kick-ass routes to be done.
Nevertheless, it's a splitter finger crack, 13c/d done in '83 and was the hardest route in the country for over a year.
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grandwall
Mar 7, 2003, 6:58 PM
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Zombie Roof 5.13a
Sixty-Nine 5.13c R
Shallow Penetration. Beside Sixty-Nine, a harder line. I don't think anyone's freed it yet.
Cobra Crack on the backside of the Chief (potential grade of 14a apparently). Also, no ascents but if you're looking for a project...
Squamish has spoken.
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badphish
May 5, 2003, 10:29 PM
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what about trauma? its like a 13r/x right?
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peas
May 5, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Thank you grandwall. I was going to have to go home and get out the guidebook tonight. You saved me that effort.
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mesomorf
May 6, 2003, 12:44 AM
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In reply to: another one is Steve Petro's "Fiddler on the Roof" in Fremont Canyon, Wyoming. It's supposedly 13d and hasn't been repeated.
Doesn't count. Manufactured.
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squeek
May 6, 2003, 10:10 PM
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Quite a few hard trad routes in the UK, which are E10 7a/7b. The only one to have been repeated is Equilibrium which is E10 7a UK, which apparently converts to 5.14a according to one chart.
The climb Adrian Berry climbed Blind Vision was E10 7b, so is harder than that (theoreticaly at least.)
It's converting between grades though, and the UK grade system is harder to directly convert than most.
Grade table - http://www.rockfax.com/miniguides/grades.html
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brianinslc
May 6, 2003, 11:49 PM
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Yaniro's Boogeyman in the City of Rocks. 5.14a?
Can't recall, but seemed to be another in that catagory at the City as well.
For a trad lead, I'd say Lynn's ascent of the Nose, with the changing corners pitch especially, has to rank right up there...
Brian in SLC
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rockprodigy
May 7, 2003, 1:47 PM
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In reply to: Doesn't count. Manufactured.
Care to elaborate? I've never heard anything about that being manufactured...did Petro do it?
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high
May 18, 2003, 1:19 AM
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some would also argue that City Park in Index, WA has never been freed by anyone with feet...tood skinner reportedly hung all over it during the month that he camped under the one pitch route, and after he finally pieced it together bailed off of onto Godzilla -thus never completed a true, complete free ascent. what a fag. bring on the hubers, i'd like to see them get on it...anyone got their number? they can crash at our pad, free room and bonghits.
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crackaddict
May 18, 2003, 2:06 AM
Post #38 of 93
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How come there are no off widths on here?
Like
Lucille 13a
Trench warfare 12d
And Belly Full of Bad Berries is only an easy 13
Are we so blinded numbers on here?
I can see that these are not rated 5.14. But are some of the hardest wide cracks to climb. Which is also one of the hardest techniques for most climbers to master.
Someone needs to give these climbs some credit.
They are hard trad lines
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antagonism
May 18, 2003, 2:26 AM
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Adam Stack sent China Doll at 5.13 c/d in Dream Canyon, Colorado. This was an old aid line with bolts, but when he sent he placed all of his own gear.
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hasbeen
May 18, 2003, 4:59 AM
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Unless something has broken, the South Face of the Column is about 13a/b. Kevin Thaw and I worked on it about 10 years ago. It was pretty easy at first but we broke a jug off, making it harder. We never went back to redpoint it but Kevin did the hard part on TR. However, there was still another jug in the roof. It that pulled, I could see it being really hard.
There was one other part that was hard, the bolted section off the next pitch. It might be 14. We went over to Skull Queen and back across and figured it would need a bolt to do safely. About 5.12 our way.
John Dunne has two routes rated 5.14. One is up some gulley in the Lake District with a 2 hour approach. The other is way out there in, like, northern Scottland with an insane approach. I forget a exactly. It's suppose to have protected 5.14 but a death fall off of 5.12 on a 160' pitch. There must be some info around somewhere.
There are stacks of 13+ headpoint routes in England.
John Duran did Date With Death, which he rated 14a. However, the crux is bolt protected but the bottom is super scary crack climbing with bad pro. It's controversial, and I think has been declared much easier, via toprope. It doesn't have a second ascent.
This is all old stuff. There must have been some newer hard routes. Isn't there a bunch on El Cap? Lurking Fear must be that hard, at least. And the Muir got freed at 14, right? What sis that kid from England do up there, Leo Holding? I reckon something else hard. I know he and Kevin had at something last year.
You might try asking Mick at Rock Fax. He usually knows this stuff.
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rockprodigy
May 20, 2003, 1:59 PM
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In reply to: bailed off of onto Godzilla
He bailed onto Godzillay because some local A-hole (much like yourself) smeared grease into the crack. I can't understand why anyone would do this, especially if you have no hope of climbing the route yourself, which can be said for every climber in the entire state of Washington.
He was well past the crux anyway.
Takes-one to know-one, Na-nah-na-nah-na-nah-na!!
When you've sent 5.13 trad in impeccable style, then you can pass judgment on the likes of Todd Skinner. Otherwise, shut up.
Hey, I see you live in Washington, why don't you go send it? If a "fag" like skinner can do it, I'm sure you can to!
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rockprodigy
May 20, 2003, 2:05 PM
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Here is my reference for the South Face:
http://www.stanford.edu/.../yos/longhf.htm#wash
I haven't climbed it, so I'm just going off this website. Here's what he says for the crux pitches:
"FFA - Matt Wilder, 10/3/02
-start with 2 pitches to Dinner Ledge, using a 60 meter rope
-p3 (Kor Roof): 5.8 to 5.10 move to V10 (crux boulder problem at roof) to 5.11a diagonal crack above the roof.
-p4: face climb right of the aid line (towards Skull Queen), 5.11b, then back left across the aid line and make a thin undercling left on a small feature, 5.12c. "
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rockprodigy
May 20, 2003, 2:14 PM
Post #43 of 93
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In reply to: How come there are no off widths on here? ... ...Are we so blinded numbers on here? .... ...Which is also one of the hardest techniques for most climbers to master
I doubt many people would argue that wide cracks are difficult, however, they are not the hardest cracks around. If more people climbed wide cracks, they would get climbed more, but people don't because they are unpleasant.
Here's a paraphrase from a wide-crack master, Craig Luebben: "These wide cracks aren't that hard. If people had some place to train for these techniques, they would get done all the time, the problem is, there's just nowhere to train." I don't remember the exact wording, but he said that after the "summer of the offwidth" when he repeated 3 notorious wide cracks (I believe Trench Warfare and Lucille were among them).
In reply to: Trench warfare 12d
This has seen multiple ascents, at least 4 I know of, probably way more.
In reply to: Belly Full of Bad Berries
...also seen multiple ascents.
...not many ascents, but that's 'cause nobody climbs at Vedauwo (sp?)
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roclimb
May 20, 2003, 3:58 PM
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the Herr Roof in Pennsylvania is about 5.13d
~Rob H
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crackwhore
May 20, 2003, 5:04 PM
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who has repeated Belly full-o-bad Berries and Liquid Sky on the six shooter ??
it took steph and dean 2 years of on and off effort to free Epitaph,
although someone with smaller fingers might do so quicker, this probably qualifies as one of the harder single pitches done yet.
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hasbeen
May 20, 2003, 5:27 PM
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Okay, the roof could be V10, but that ain't 5.14 unless you're pumped when you do it. And I guarantee you he's not pumped at that point.
They did the SQ traverse across the top of the little roof. Without adding a bolt, that seems pretty stout as it's a pretty bad fall on really insecure climbing. But climbers are better now, so maybe it's a cake walk these days.
Anyway, it's cool that it finally got ticked.
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rockprodigy
May 21, 2003, 5:21 AM
Post #47 of 93
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In reply to: who has repeated Belly full-o-bad Berries and Liquid Sky on the six shooter
Eric Decaria, for one, and I'm pretty sure a few others, but I'm not about to dig through all my back issues to find the references. I think Brad Jackson's done it, but dont quote me....
Liquid Sky has been repeated at least once. Besides, dangerous is different than hard. It's "only" 5.12, remember?
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alpinestylist
Jun 1, 2003, 10:05 PM
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Matt Lizzenby of Grand JUnction, CO
you've never heard of him, but he sends OW like no other I know of.
He flashed Liquid Sky with a friend of mine. I know he's sent Trench Warfare and a host of other nasties.
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clintcummins
Jun 11, 2003, 7:24 AM
Post #49 of 93
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In reply to: Okay, the roof could be V10, but that ain't 5.14 unless you're pumped when you do it. And I guarantee you he's not pumped at that point.
The 5.14a got put on the page as an attempt to compare it with other
routes. But of course such a comparison of a short very hard section
to something else like a long sustained pitch is probably futile.
And as was pointed out in another post, it's bolted there, so it's
not a trad pitch as sought by the original post in this thread.
In reply to: They did the SQ traverse across the top of the little roof. Without adding a bolt, that seems pretty stout as it's a pretty bad fall on really insecure climbing. But climbers are better now, so maybe it's a cake walk these days.
http://www.stanford.edu/...os/SouthFaceTopo.jpg
In reply to: Anyway, it's cool that it finally got ticked.
Clint Cummins
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clintcummins
Jun 11, 2003, 7:35 AM
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In reply to: Scott Burke told me he thought it was a 14a. He spent over 300 days on it and did it on top rope last I knew. I haven't seen him for a few years.
the pitch. He had to do it differently than the way Lynn Hill
did it, because he is taller and did not fit into the way she
stemmed it. So let's say the rating is rather height-dependent.
Clint Cummins
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