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rockpossum
Feb 9, 2003, 4:51 AM
Post #26 of 47
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Registered: Oct 11, 2002
Posts: 230
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Deja vu all over again,
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=20844&forum=23
I'm having deja vu of having had deja vu on this one.
Cheers,
Mike
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phil_nev
Feb 9, 2003, 4:51 AM
Post #27 of 47
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
Posts: 361
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Greg Child
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passthepitonspete
Feb 9, 2003, 5:05 AM
Post #28 of 47
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
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Greg Child, Don Whillans, and Tom Patey.
I met Greg once sitting in the meadows with Lynn Hill. I told him I had climbed his route [Aurora] and read virtually every word he had written.
I have been priveleged to have attended a few of Walt Shipley's fireside sessions.
"You're not here for any BETA, are you?!" he once shouted at me.
And though I wouldn't have minded some, I said, "no."
"OK, then," said Walt, "you can stay." I remember that night. Coiler was there.
Walt could hold court like none I have ever known.
Without doubt, the very best Big Wall Heckling I have ever witnessed was during the now-legendary night in the fall of 1996 in the Cliff Room of Yosemite Lodge when John Middendorf and Warren Hollinger gave their slide shows. It was a Who's Who of big wall climbing.
Walt Shipley and Bill Norman were the highlights of the show!
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superbum
May 21, 2003, 2:52 AM
Post #29 of 47
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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GREGORY CROUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(Enduring Patagonia)
:D
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billcoe_
May 21, 2003, 3:36 AM
Post #30 of 47
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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Most everything ever written by John Long, most of Krakaurs stuff, some of Jeff Longs writing and certainly the classic Books Annapurna and Touching the Void..........
BUT,.......I'm really looking forward to Pass the Pitons Pete Zabruk's stuff coming up on Rock and Ice and ....other places?
Pete gets in there with the best of them, he's knowlegable, intellegent, witty, and his stuff only needs to be longer to get into book form and sell a million copies. (The preceeding was a paid promotional blurb of course!)
:D Seriously Pete, you have the gift. Let it fly before you die is my motto, cause time waits for no-one.
Regards:
Bill
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rockprodigy
May 21, 2003, 4:44 AM
Post #31 of 47
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
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In reply to: that one russian guy who first soloed everest
How did this make it past everyone???
Krakauer may be entertaining to read, but you have to take his work as fiction. He's so melodramatic, he seriously exaggerates in his stories. Try a few of the routes he's written about, and you'll know what I mean.
Personally I think John Long is the most fun to read....of course his writing is fiction to, based on true stories, but "enriched" a bit.
I love Twight's cynicism and elitism, but his fascination with death is kinda tiring. He wrote an article on ice climbing in Colorado, and from the story, you'd think they were facing death with every throw of the tool, even if it was on a WI4.
I really like Greg Crouch because he's not too serious about the sport. I think he realizes it's a game, and that it should be fun.
I really like the older historical writing too: Chis Jones, in Climbing in North America, steve Roper in Camp 4 (a bit biased), etc.
It's all good!
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badphish
May 21, 2003, 11:02 PM
Post #32 of 47
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Registered: Apr 2, 2003
Posts: 207
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sherman!!!! funny as hell
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fivel
May 23, 2003, 4:32 PM
Post #33 of 47
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Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 15
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I like Krakuer becacuse he does elaborate everything making it even more interesting.
Also Antoli Bourkreev (I think that is how you spell it) who summited in 96 with Krakuer also wrote a book telling a whole entire different side of the story that Krakuer does not make clear.
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traddad
May 23, 2003, 4:56 PM
Post #34 of 47
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Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
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Greg Crouch and Paul Pritchard.
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petsfed
May 23, 2003, 5:12 PM
Post #35 of 47
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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Joe Simpson is pretty good, but Touching the Void is not his best. Dig This Game of Ghosts or Storms of Silence for a more general perspective on the man.
And while Krakauer is a better story teller, Boukreev has the better story.
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tashtego
May 23, 2003, 6:18 PM
Post #36 of 47
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Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 12
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Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker. Pick up a copy of the Boardman Tasker Omnibus, a collection of their four books under one cover. Not only are they one of the most storied climbing pairs (they died together on Everest in 82), they were both excellent, though very different writers.
Comparing the the accounts of their 1976 ascent of Changabang is riveting. It's a mind-boggling face route which to my knowledge has not been repeated -- almost 30 years later. Tasker's "Savage Arena" -- a personal history -- is great reading, as is Boardman's "Sacred Summits." Those titles alone give you a taste of their divergent tempraments and motivations for climbing.
Next to these guys, Twight seems like an arrogant twit. He's undeniably a great climber, but his Henry Rollins-style self-aggrandizing rants (My Pain!! It Hurts!!) wear really thin. It comes down to taste I guess. I was never a Skinny Puppy fan.
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jefffski
Jun 16, 2003, 4:15 AM
Post #37 of 47
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Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 286
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i laughed my way through touching the void. Great story but i hope i never make the poor decisions they made, although i'll never climb as hard as them.
kiss or kill by twight gave me insights into my own deepest fears about climbing. overdone a bit but poetry can do that.
long and roskelly are always fun reads.
but my favourite author by far is dave roberts. pick up a copy of "debra" and mountain of my fear", two novels in one volume. he provides enough technical info to answer my questions but his insights into interpersonal dynamics are simply amazing. btw, roberts put up the hardest routes in alaska 30 years ago.
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yosemite
Jun 16, 2003, 4:30 AM
Post #38 of 47
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
Posts: 331
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My favorite is Steve Roper.
50 Classics
Yosemite Climbers Guide (1964)
Yosemite Climbers Guide (1970)
High Sierra Climbers Guide (+/- 1970)
Camp 4
Sierra High Route
Numerous Ascent articles (he was also the editor)
Historian in Residence for Supertopo.
He's more than a guide book writer. He has the uncanny ability to put a climb in its historical perspective. He also concentrates on the characters as well as the beta.
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weedy
Jun 16, 2003, 4:59 AM
Post #39 of 47
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Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 33
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im just learning to read pretty good but so far i like the john long book because its helping me read and i learn a lot of climbing. it takes me a while to read but there is good pictures on what to do with the pieces and how to put the rope. for my reading lessons my mentor said i could do my report on that book. she helped me write this to.
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deadpointman
Jun 16, 2003, 8:15 AM
Post #40 of 47
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
Posts: 176
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Eric Horst (with and umlat above the "o"). Not the most entertaining author, but damn he can help u climb better! :P
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mikalw
Sep 24, 2003, 11:38 AM
Post #41 of 47
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 5
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Paul Pritchards books are great, John Sherman cracks me up.
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vertical_risk
Sep 24, 2003, 12:03 PM
Post #42 of 47
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Registered: Aug 31, 2003
Posts: 98
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In reply to: Mark twight kiss or kill my new bible awsome book great love life tells it how it is i also am reading a book edid by john long high lonsome about soloing its pretty good its all about soloing storys awsome mark twights in it tomo cesen that one russian guy who first soloed everest? lol adn i just bought american rock yesterday it seems like it will be an awsome book just from the pictures there is rock i' never new about in idaho nice ehh tetons
I have to agree! Mark Twight is the best. His chapter "Twitching with Twight" is a classic.
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pehperboy
Sep 25, 2003, 3:12 PM
Post #43 of 47
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Registered: Jun 21, 2003
Posts: 871
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Greg Childs, Mixed Emotions. A very well written book with a variety of experiences which gives good insight into climbing, what motivates people to do it and what impact it has on their lives. His writing, imho, stands above most other efforts about climbong for his ability to balance the subjective with the objective. In the midst of amazing descriptions of climbing experiences, Childs also manages to give insight into what it means to be in that place at that time.
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wallwombat
Mar 8, 2004, 11:53 PM
Post #44 of 47
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
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Dave Pagel makes me laugh. So does John Sherman. Paul Pritchard, Joe Simpson are good. I liked Boningtons stuff, particularly the earlier writing. Bonatti is interesting but the translation leaves a fair bit to be desired. It often sounds stilted. Greg Child is good when he's not in investigative journalist mode.
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thegreytradster
Mar 11, 2004, 10:46 PM
Post #45 of 47
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Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
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Closeups of the High Sierra, Norman Clyde
Although he didn't write much Clyde had a degree in Clasic Literature, and the sparse writing he did do reflects that. In the late 20's he was commisioned to write a series of articles fot "Touring Topics" published by the Automobile Club of Southern California. These were collected and published along with some history and reflections by those that knew him.
The articles encompass everything from the topgraphy of the sierras, accounts of first ascents, (E face of Whitney among others), Epic tales and purely instructional tomes.
I picked up the book just before a Sierra trip a few years ago. That spring we had skied over Piute Pass and got caught in a storm just over the pass. Turns out the boulder that we used to shelter our camp was the same one, in almost identical conditions as in one of his epic tales when his partner died. :shock: It made for a great out loud read on the drive up.
Everyone recognizing the landmarks in the story.
The list of FA's in the back is incredible. 117 peaks 3 of them 14ers. (just peaks not routes that would proabably number in the low thousands). He did most of them solo.
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redpointron
Mar 12, 2004, 3:35 AM
Post #46 of 47
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Registered: Dec 12, 2003
Posts: 1170
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does it get any better than mark twight ( henry rollins meets alpinism).
r.r.
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deleted
Deleted
Mar 12, 2004, 3:41 AM
Post #47 of 47
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mark twight for what he has to say, john long for how he says it.
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