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tradmanclimbs
Apr 23, 2012, 5:40 AM
Post #76 of 86
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2599
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USnavy's senario will not work unless the biners are loaded ove an edge in which case lockers will also break. in a straight direction of pull the rope always breaks at a knott even with retired non locking biners in the system.
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NikNak
Aug 3, 2012, 3:38 PM
Post #77 of 86
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Registered: Jul 29, 2012
Posts: 38
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Apologies to all for digging up a done and dusted thread, but I have a lot of catching up to do (being a complete noob)
Thanks to various thread on these forums I became aware of the story relating to Lynn Hill, I know all of the people here already know the story, and being a complete noob I do not have the qualifications, expereince, skill or knowledge to dare point out that the tragic accounts of accidents or misjudgements of expereinced climbers happen far too often.
But the fact is the simplest of noob errors are not restricted purely to noobs. I would like to thank cracklover for the demonstration of how this might occur, it has certainly reinforced in me a drive to not become complacent in my new found passion for rock climbing.
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Syd
Oct 28, 2012, 2:37 AM
Post #78 of 86
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 205
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How about giving double the money for locking biners ?
It takes a bit of fiddling, but set up 2 opposed locking biners in a top rope situation. Rotate one of the biners, so they are still opposed but gates are on the same side. Now push one through the other till it jams, with the rope passing over the locked gate. The rope can be shredded ! It has actually happened.
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Syd
Feb 22, 2013, 1:32 AM
Post #79 of 86
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 205
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Where's my $40 ?
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bearbreeder
Feb 22, 2013, 1:39 PM
Post #80 of 86
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1854
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the gyms here use 2 opposed non lockers ... they see millions and millions of laps a year
the ropes havent gotten shredded 
toppu roperu tofu guys are the "climbers" who will tell you the many ways youll die ...
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virial
Feb 22, 2013, 3:06 PM
Post #81 of 86
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Registered: Aug 25, 2005
Posts: 7
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possible both gates open weaken binner 'gate slap'In reply to: , anybody think about setting up anchor on multi pitch what if the anchor is the top rope....failure of the system could happen, not sure which part would fail first, they have books on climbing accidents, and I have seen binners that have failed....overussage of the binner can cause a groove to form and weaken the binner further. I have also seen binners that have been bent...probably from falling on them many times or overusing them to the point where the gate no longer catches right, but you sounded like you were talking brand new gear with no wear
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Syd
Feb 22, 2013, 4:48 PM
Post #82 of 86
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 205
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A rope was shedded this way some time back in Queensland Australia. I thought it was impossible but there is a configuration where it can happen. Very rare but possible. It takes seconds to check.
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bearbreeder
Feb 22, 2013, 5:37 PM
Post #83 of 86
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1854
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So make sure the anchor is nice and good and move on
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healyje
Feb 22, 2013, 5:59 PM
Post #84 of 86
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4186
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The whole topic is way over-wrought even by genuine first world problem standards.
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justroberto
Mar 18, 2013, 8:18 PM
Post #85 of 86
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1874
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healyje wrote: The whole topic is way over-wrought even by genuine first world problem standards.
Hasn't that been the MO for the Lab for years now?
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