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wideguy
Nov 17, 2006, 4:11 AM
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Josh, good to see you again. I meant to PM you the other week, I had two hours to kill in Stamford one evening, I couldn't remember where you where, if that was close to you.
Congrats on the marriage!
Rob, no can do. Working all weekend.
(This post was edited by wideguy on Nov 17, 2006, 4:26 AM)
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jakedatc
Nov 19, 2006, 4:15 AM
Post #18327 of 22774
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Well we did get to LW today and the weather was awesome.. the group of people down at the lower part of Warm up were sweet to climb with. we were all doing similar things so we all got psyched on each other's progress. found new beta for rump to jump and it seems promising. hopefully i'll head out after work sometime this week and give it a few more burns. I did do an experiment with finishing Neils while tired and that still went well albiet shakey so i'm happy with that.
all this week looks good so maybe one of you folks will come out and play
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edge
Nov 19, 2006, 5:34 PM
Post #18328 of 22774
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Hi everyone!
What with the new job as an Outdoor Ed instructor, I have been quite some time away from a computer. Add to that a severe high ankle sprain and I have also been far removed from climbing as well.
The ankle is slowly improving, thanks to an aggressive brace that I have been using, and so I thought I would scratch my climbing itch yesterday with a little high altitude home improvement project.
Basically I had to replace some shingles that had blown off the main roof, about 30 feet off the deck on a 45 degree slant covered with nasty little slippery tar granules. Instead of the conventional roofing brackets, I went technical.
The overview:
http://img.photobucket.com/.../Family/DSCN0888.jpg
The sillouette:
http://img.photobucket.com/.../Family/DSCN0889.jpg
and finally, the $15,000 anchor:
http://img.photobucket.com/.../Family/DSCN0895.jpg
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jakedatc
Nov 20, 2006, 12:36 AM
Post #18329 of 22774
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pshh.. my dad just borrowed my old harness and used a hardware rope and the biner i gave him attached to the chimney lol (yes my dad is dumb sometimes.. but at least he wasnt using the rope for primary support)
and boo i was hoping for you to pull out the piton hammer :)
get that ankle fixed up so you can come down and play at the woods with us and meg PM me if ya want some exercises for it
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peterk
Nov 20, 2006, 2:57 PM
Post #18330 of 22774
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Just wanted to say thanks for those of you that mentioned CR. I went with the buddy that introduced me to climbing a couple of months ago. Come to find out, he spent plenty of time at CR fifteen years ago.
My girls had a great time there as well. The people that were there were super friendly. My kids actually "made" me go back there on Sunday. I sacrificed my chores around the house and brought them back to climb. The things I'll do for my kids.
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robbovius
Nov 20, 2006, 3:53 PM
Post #18331 of 22774
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Pete that's great! glad you had a good time there. I had originally planned a trip to the milford quarry, but bailed on that for a few projects I'd been putting off, and then just did a bit of thrashing on my home wallie.
we'll see what happens this weekend.
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 20, 2006, 4:06 PM
Post #18332 of 22774
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Dood!! You've clearly got some tri-axial loading going on on your biners. I wouldn't haul that truck until I got that issue resolved...
Seriously, Good on you for getting out.
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rhonius
Nov 20, 2006, 6:19 PM
Post #18333 of 22774
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So I have a question. I was out for a little stroll in the woods on Sunday at Blue Hills. We were walking over the top of rattlesnake rocks and I saw a party getting ready to rap down and in their pack were ice tools. When I asked if they were weight training or anything they said that they were actually going to dry tool up.
My question is how do people feel about Dry tooling on established routes? I know that most people don't climb at RR but i have read that it will damage the rock.
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cracklover
Nov 21, 2006, 12:12 AM
Post #18335 of 22774
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In reply to: So I have a question. I was out for a little stroll in the woods on Sunday at Blue Hills. We were walking over the top of rattlesnake rocks and I saw a party getting ready to rap down and in their pack were ice tools. When I asked if they were weight training or anything they said that they were actually going to dry tool up. My question is how do people feel about Dry tooling on established routes? I know that most people don't climb at RR but i have read that it will damage the rock.
On established routes, I'd give them a big piece of my mind. Scars the rock, changes the route, a big no-no. On any other choss - have at it.
GO
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olderic
Nov 21, 2006, 2:50 PM
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In reply to: My question is how do people feel about Dry tooling on established routes? I know that most people don't climb at RR but i have read that it will damage the rock.
Thre classic 5.11 roof route at RR (just right of Mossy Corner) aws broken in a dry tolliing incident some years ago.
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rhonius
Nov 21, 2006, 4:45 PM
Post #18337 of 22774
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In reply to: On established routes, I'd give them a big piece of my mind. Scars the rock, changes the route, a big no-no. On any other choss - have at it. GO
I was on the easy low angle slab on the far left. I think it is called monday morning slab but sure. I think that there are pics of wideguy leading up it
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wideguy
Nov 21, 2006, 11:59 PM
Post #18338 of 22774
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In reply to: In reply to: On established routes, I'd give them a big piece of my mind. Scars the rock, changes the route, a big no-no. On any other choss - have at it. GO I was on the easy low angle slab on the far left. I think it is called monday morning slab but sure. I think that there are pics of wideguy leading up it
On a side note, regarding the above post... title line
[cracklover] Dry Tooling
Seems like a personal problem.
Regarding the questio, I'd have given them a piece of my mind. Knowing that rock, I can imagine axes leaving scars. Plus, seems like a pretty weak place to practice. Other than 4 or 5 cracks there's realy nothing to hook a tool on. That slab is pretty blank.
(This post was edited by wideguy on Nov 21, 2006, 11:59 PM)
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jakedatc
Nov 22, 2006, 12:27 AM
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Dry tooling slab in general is a freaking waste of time.. tell them to go find a chossy ass roof somewhere and actually do something worth the effort. as it's been said.. on established routes is a fairly well known no-no
decided to go back to the woods after work today.. it was very nice out however the muscles still havent quite recovered from the weekend :P boooo
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 22, 2006, 12:56 PM
Post #18340 of 22774
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Hey Massholyos,
I overheard that there is a fire going on this morning somewhere along one of the __95 coridoors. How is this affecting traffic?? It's a bit early still, but I'll be driving through there about 10 - 11 tonight and I am trying to monitor how this will affect my loooooong ass drive.
Cheers.
Oh, and Gabe, you might want to see a doc about your tool problem. You should know by now the possible rammifications of asking us internet dweebs about medical advice....
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robbovius
Nov 22, 2006, 1:36 PM
Post #18341 of 22774
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Jay, check the various news outlets, like bostonherald.com for starters, for uppdates on the Danvers chemical plant explosion.. it's pretty nasty. many roads into Danvers are closed, school is closed, lotsa people evac'ed from their homes.
rather a mess.
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wideguy
Nov 22, 2006, 5:10 PM
Post #18342 of 22774
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Jay I-95 comes a few miles west of the scene and as far I they've reported I don't think 95 was ever closed . If you're headed to the Pike though, Just take I-495. Where 495 splits off I=95 in Tewksbury is 30 miles from the scene and you'll never be closer than that, shouldn't have any issues.
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notch
Nov 22, 2006, 6:01 PM
Post #18343 of 22774
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That explosion woke me up this morning...in Lawrence! It was loud enough to set my heart racing thinking somebody was in my joint, but I am a pretty light sleeper. Did anyone closer in hear it too?
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jakedatc
Nov 22, 2006, 7:07 PM
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notch they were saying on the news today that folks heard it like 20 mi away.. crazy..
where are people climbing this weekend? i'd be open to whatever
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 22, 2006, 8:12 PM
Post #18345 of 22774
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Sweet, Thanks guys. I stay on the 495 corridoor anyways. I was just curious..
I won't be getting much climbing in...
Maybe some buIldering, and if I'm lucky there might be a boulder at a rest area on the way home, but for the most part we'll be on a tight schedule. I'm only bringing my chalkbag and shoes.
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cracklover
Nov 22, 2006, 10:25 PM
Post #18346 of 22774
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In reply to: [cracklover] Dry Tooling Seems like a personal problem.
In reply to: Oh, and Gabe, you might want to see a doc about your tool problem. You should know by now the possible rammifications of asking us internet dweebs about medical advice....
Thanks, for your interest guys! I'm so pleased that you're all so interested in my tool! Let me reassure you all that it is functioning exactly according to specifications. As for any rumors of my torquing it into a dry crack, well, I can happily dispel those for you. Something to be thankful for...
Happy Thanksgiving to all!
GO
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ridgeclimber
Nov 24, 2006, 7:23 PM
Post #18347 of 22774
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HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone!
Does anyone know if outside corner at quarries takes good gear? I heard its G but I looked last time I was there and it seemed like there was a blank section in the middle where there are no good cracks. Thanks!! happy holidays.
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core
Nov 25, 2006, 12:23 AM
Post #18348 of 22774
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In reply to: HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone! Does anyone know if outside corner at quarries takes good gear? I heard its G but I looked last time I was there and it seemed like there was a blank section in the middle where there are no good cracks. Thanks!! happy holidays.
It eats up cams from small hands to fists, a good lead. The middle section is on easy terrain and protected by piton.
(This post was edited by core on Nov 25, 2006, 12:31 AM)
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ridgeclimber
Nov 25, 2006, 5:12 AM
Post #18349 of 22774
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Great thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Is the pin trustworthy? Also, how many bolted lines are there on that arete? I only saw one last time I was there (summer) but someone told me there was another to its left.
Hope to be able to get out to qq next weekend.
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cracklover
Nov 25, 2006, 2:31 PM
Post #18350 of 22774
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ridgeclimber wrote: Great thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Is the pin trustworthy? Also, how many bolted lines are there on that arete? I only saw one last time I was there (summer) but someone told me there was another to its left. Hope to be able to get out to qq next weekend.
I believe there's also some good small-medium gear that can be fiddled in in that middle section on OC.
To the best of my knowledge, there are only two bolted lines at QQ - Sloping Staircase, and Needles. Trouble with Sloping Staircase is that you clip your first bolt only *after* the very devious crux. Of course you could stick clip it. Aside from that, it's a good climb - very bouldery, and hard for the grade. The trouble with Needles is that those bright shiny bolt hangers make people think that those bolts are good. They are not - they are old 1/4 inch buttonheads that are going to rip out one of these years. Of course, I've led it, but I was smart enough not to fall or hang on any of those bolts, unlike two people I know on this thread. ;)
Don't know about any bolted lines on aretes. Did someone go and bolt the arete to the left of OC?
GO
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