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Gmburns2000
Nov 18, 2007, 2:21 AM
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Been a while since I last reported, but I just got back from Red Rocks for the first time and had a good time. I've started to update the blog, but not all posts are up yet. I hope to get them in by the weekend. The short version is: Birdland, Crimson Chrysalis, Dark Shadows and a few easy stuff at Panty Wall and Ultraman the last morning.
Kevin - give some advance notice. Wouldn't mind meeting up with you guys. I think a spring / summer trip to the valley is in the works (finally). I wouldn't mind touching base just to get some advice.
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losbill
Nov 18, 2007, 12:47 PM
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Greg ---- nice RR ticks. Very envious, especially since I had to back out of my Fall trip out there. What guide book did you use? Planning on ordering Handren's online today. Would be interested in your comments if you used it or got a chance to page through it at Travis' shop.
Sent you a PM with my website address. Website needs updating, as several people have been reminding me. Life got in the way a bit over the last 3 months. Now with the the cold weather I'm starting to chip away at the backlog of TRs from folks.
Please respond with your blog address. I know I have it somewhere here on the computer but can't seem to find it. --- Bill
Jake --- Have you bouldered at Farley? Cold Weather Kevin and me, bored with top roping at CH in the cold, are planning to head out there to boulder in the near future. Kevin believes there is good bouldering there but neither of us have been there before and would appreciate having a "guide" with us. --- Thanks Bill
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Gmburns2000
Nov 18, 2007, 3:20 PM
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losbill wrote: Greg ---- nice RR ticks. Very envious, especially since I had to back out of my Fall trip out there. What guide book did you use? Planning on ordering Handren's online today. Would be interested in your comments if you used it or got a chance to page through it at Travis' shop.
Hey Bill, I used two guides and combined the info - Brock and Handren. I think the Brock guide was OK, but just OK. The Handren guide is much better and worth getting. The color photos are really quite useful. However, each guide does have a little information the other doesn't have (depending on the route). If you have to choose one, though, go with Handren's. I think that's going to be the style that leads the next generation of guide books. (It's freaking heavy, though!)
losbill wrote: Sent you a PM with my website address. Website needs updating, as several people have been reminding me. Life got in the way a bit over the last 3 months. Now with the the cold weather I'm starting to chip away at the backlog of TRs from folks.
I'll check out your site. Do you mind if I link it on my blog? I know there were some privacy issues you had, so if you don't want me to then that's OK. I won't link without your permission.
As for my link, just look below in signature of this post. It's right there. \/
I only got one post in las night. I expect to get another two by the end of the day today with actual trip climbs in them. I think there'll be five posts in all. Oh, and the "ugliness thing" should be kept in mind when I post my third post on Crimson Chrysalis. I'm setting you up...
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jakedatc
Nov 20, 2007, 3:06 AM
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Bill Farley has nice bouldering.. i have only been once and all the stuff i got on was moderate to hard. i would not be the best guide. I would bring a rope and rack also since the faces are pretty sunny. Post up on NEB and they might be able to give more info
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shear
Nov 20, 2007, 12:55 PM
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In the way of easy bouldering Farley doesn't have an extensive amount of problems. Once you get to V7 the possibilities are pretty much endless...V10 and you are really psyched. The cliffs get sun until about noon now....if you want to warm up in the sun on a rope, get there around 8am or 9am and you can warm up and be ready once the cliffs go into the shade.
If you want any more beta, let me know.
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notch
Nov 20, 2007, 8:50 PM
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shear wrote: In the way of easy bouldering Farley doesn't have an extensive amount of problems. Once you get to V7 the possibilities are pretty much endless...V10 and you are really psyched. The cliffs get sun until about noon now....if you want to warm up in the sun on a rope, get there around 8am or 9am and you can warm up and be ready once the cliffs go into the shade. If you want any more beta, let me know.
V7 to V10? No problem for my man Bill!
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 20, 2007, 10:32 PM
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^^^^^^^^^^^^
V0-
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jakedatc
Nov 20, 2007, 11:14 PM
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Yea.. rob found the one v0- he could do in his sneakers haha
but yea.. i still need to go send Chronic v5.. fucking awesome problem. i wish it wasn't so far away or i'd be alot more motivated to go.
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losbill
Nov 21, 2007, 3:13 AM
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Well I guess maybe Kevin and I will be content with TRing and bouldering at CH after all.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 21, 2007, 3:38 AM
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got a couple more posts up. Will probably have to do the last two this weekend.
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jakedatc
Nov 21, 2007, 4:38 AM
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or you can trad, mixed and a little bouldering at Farley... or check out mormon hollow down the road from farley
http://www.westernmacc.com/climbing/index.htm
oh yea.. all the climbing sucks there :)
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shear
Nov 21, 2007, 11:56 AM
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Whoa! I didn't mean to scare anyone off! If you climb cracks.....come here! Best crack climbing in southern New England, period. Amazing sport and honestly.....you can have a full day working on the V0-V3 boulders. If you make up here, give me a shout, I can either give you the full spray down via email or most likely I'll be out there.
err....I mean, it's f-ing terrible here. The climbing sucks, the boulders are too small....the routes are too chossy, you'll hate it. Don't come, you'll be miserable.
(This post was edited by shear on Nov 21, 2007, 11:58 AM)
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robbovius
Nov 21, 2007, 12:30 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Yea.. rob found the one v0- he could do in his sneakers haha but yea.. i still need to go send Chronic v5.. fucking awesome problem. i wish it wasn't so far away or i'd be alot more motivated to go.
In my HIKERS dude, hikers... ;-)
although, interestingly, I bougth this pair of low-top gum-rubber-soled sneakers (like Keds, only suede, not canvas) at Kohl's a couple weeks ago - on sale for $15 - and its fricken amazing how much grip they have. on my home wall i've traversed all the way from the south baseboard around the K feaqure to the crimp wall, on toe holds about the size of my pinky, without any real drama.
I wanna go back and get another pair to wear as slab shoes ;-)
oh before I forget, Farley sucks, don't ever go there, you'll hate it. there's nothing to climb.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Nov 21, 2007, 12:30 PM)
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c4c
Nov 21, 2007, 2:00 PM
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Matt, they've got cracks! When do we go?!
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losbill
Nov 21, 2007, 7:12 PM
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Shear & Jake --- I heard you about the trad & mixed. Regarding "mixed" I assume you mean a trad line with some bolts. I have a "plugged-in" local, has climbed there with Ward Smith, that has promised me a guided tour so I'm set in that department. I just hope that volcano that has been spewing the ash, smoke and lava hasn't destroyed too many boulder problems and routes.
Kevin isn't into the aid like Doug, who is now in Atlanta, GA and climbing the T-Wall on weekends, was so I'm doing more bouldering in the winter. Kevin even has a bouldering pad of all things! (Please, no one let Doug know I have been bouldering. tradman that he is he will never climb with me again.) That's why Kevin mentioned bouldering at Farley.
I have climbed at Mormon Hollow, didn't look like much when I walked up to it, but we had a great day of fun there. If only they could relocate that disgusting dump right next to it I might go back! Kevin has done the bouldering down the road from it.
Shear I will PM you regarding getting together on the next decent weather weekend. Thanks for the invite!
Todd, hope all is well with you and yours in NYS. Matt owes me a Gunks trip, no cracks there; or at least a run up something at Cannon, we got rained out last time. So get in line!
(Is there anything more disappointing and sad than standing in the PL at Cannon trying to delude yourself that the current deluge will quickly pass and that a horde of elves with battery-powered, electric hair dryers will go to work so you can climb Moby. We were reduced to sport at Rumney!!! At least Jake was there to keep it interesting!)
Epoch come down to the Gunks with Matt. We will have enough beers at the Otter the night before you will be hung over enough you won't miss the cracks at all!!!
Happy T-Day to everyone. Kev and I will likely be at CH on Friday, cold and all, if anyone is wandering out that way. If we aren't at the Fisherman's Wall we will be bouldering down by Tom's Dilemma.
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jakedatc
Nov 23, 2007, 12:31 AM
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Well.. i will probably be at LW tomorrow at some point in the afternoon. weather looks awesome and i havent touched real rock in a long ass time so. it should be fun.
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notch
Nov 23, 2007, 2:57 PM
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losbill wrote: Todd, hope all is well with you and yours in NYS. Matt owes me a Gunks trip, no cracks there; or at least a run up something at Cannon, we got rained out last time. So get in line! (Is there anything more disappointing and sad than standing in the PL at Cannon trying to delude yourself that the current deluge will quickly pass and that a horde of elves with battery-powered, electric hair dryers will go to work so you can climb Moby. We were reduced to sport at Rumney!!! At least Jake was there to keep it interesting!) Epoch come down to the Gunks with Matt. We will have enough beers at the Otter the night before you will be hung over enough you won't miss the cracks at all!!!
Kym and son will be out of town weekend of Dec. 15. Gunks could be an option with a Friday night drive and a return on Sunday. Hmm...
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 23, 2007, 3:25 PM
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SO how is all that rock climbing I keep hearing about? With an injured wife and spending more time looking at schools for my daughter for next year, I am forgetting what it's like. TIff IS on her way back, though. She has climbed in the gym 4 times, and the physical therapy is working. MAYBE, I might be able to climb something before I put my gear away for the winter.
Josh
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 23, 2007, 3:36 PM
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notch wrote: losbill wrote: Todd, hope all is well with you and yours in NYS. Matt owes me a Gunks trip, no cracks there; or at least a run up something at Cannon, we got rained out last time. So get in line! (Is there anything more disappointing and sad than standing in the PL at Cannon trying to delude yourself that the current deluge will quickly pass and that a horde of elves with battery-powered, electric hair dryers will go to work so you can climb Moby. We were reduced to sport at Rumney!!! At least Jake was there to keep it interesting!) Epoch come down to the Gunks with Matt. We will have enough beers at the Otter the night before you will be hung over enough you won't miss the cracks at all!!! Kym and son will be out of town weekend of Dec. 15. Gunks could be an option with a Friday night drive and a return on Sunday. Hmm...
15th is a bad weekend for me. It's holiday time and if I forgo the kid that weekend I wont see her until January. Sorry peeps. Next year.
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losbill
Nov 24, 2007, 9:16 PM
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Matt --- as long as the temps get at least into the high 40's to low 50's it would be worth it. I have it blocked on the calendar as a possibility. --- Bill
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missedyno
Nov 25, 2007, 7:55 AM
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hey mass climbers... i'll be in boston for a conference, would be cool to make it to the local gym, if there is a local gym.... staying downtown w/o wheels...
arriving tomorrow evening, leaving friday...
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Gmburns2000
Nov 25, 2007, 1:32 PM
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missedyno wrote: hey mass climbers... i'll be in boston for a conference, would be cool to make it to the local gym, if there is a local gym.... staying downtown w/o wheels... arriving tomorrow evening, leaving friday...
MetroRock. Take the Orange Line Northbound to Wellington Station. Call the gym to have them send their free shuttle from the station to the gym.
Good gym, easy to get to via public transportation, etc.
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jakedatc
Nov 26, 2007, 5:01 AM
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Had a fun day at the woods today with kate and Joel (subtle). Found a new project after repeating the stand start first go showing someone beta hehe i think i have the beta set for getting to the stand.. now i just have to link it up. 40's and sunny.. what a freaking awesome day to be out on the rock. AND the Pat's just got their ass in gear and pulled off the win tonight niiiice
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