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crack_climber


May 22, 2003, 3:05 AM
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Bouldering Grades (V?)
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Can anyone help me with understanding the different bouldering grades...maybe certain features that are found on the different grades as far as overhangs, off balance moves? I am kinda in the dark when it comes to this, so any light will help! :)


curt


May 22, 2003, 3:17 AM
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You can go to the left hand menu bar at RC.com here and then click on "Grade Chart" under "Articles" heading. This will give you a good approximate conversion of "V" grade difficulty to Yosemite Decimal System difficulty.

Although there are reasons why this is an imperfect comparison--this will get you started.

Curt


lox


May 22, 2003, 3:31 AM
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The boldering grades range from 0 to 15... with 0 being the easiest and 15 being the hardest.

Each successive grade is generally seen to be more difficult.

Except in California, where you have to add 1.5 to any v grade or Linclon Woods, where the handicap is 2 full grades.

There are many problems with the v scale. The first is, as you have amply demonstrated, there are too many numbers. Is this a 6 or a 9 you might ask yourself ?!?!? Well... that's where teh Ice Pond Scale steps in.

v4+.

It's a way of life.


bvb


May 22, 2003, 3:42 AM
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heh. i'm a 5.11c man myself. woodson scale. keeps it simple.


curt


May 22, 2003, 3:45 AM
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The "V" scale certainly has too many grades. It is impossible to give a rating that finely divided to a problem. Even if you somehow get consensus on a problem's difficulty, say in December--come back to the same problem in July and OOPS, its 2-3 "V" grades harder.

Before the "V" scale we used the "B" scale to rate bouldering difficulty. If you add +/- you get:

B1-
B1
B1+
B2-
B2
B2+

And then you have about the same number of divisions as the IPS, which does make much better sense to me.

Curt


mutant


May 22, 2003, 4:32 AM
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The V scale is a way to enhance a misinterperation of a particular problem. Just rate it easy, moderate, or hard. This will leave those who look at a problem and aren't sure about it moving down the trail.

Mutant


lox


May 22, 2003, 11:01 AM
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IPS4LYFE. bitch.


neadamthal


May 22, 2003, 11:40 AM
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In reply to:
Well... that's where teh Ice Pond Scale steps in.

i think your ice is melting...


fieldmouse


May 22, 2003, 4:45 PM
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the verm system bolsters the egos of 14 year old kids that can then report their numerically superior accomplishments to all the other little kids at the gym on monday. I propose this new rating system

this problem I can probably do. (tpicpd)

I dont think I can do this problem. (idticdtp)

yikes, look at that thing. (ylatt)

these can all be subdivided into plus and minus i.e.,

" bootylicious is definitely idticdtp + now that that hold broke."
or, "ever since chris downrated chunk-daddy to ylatt - mikes been getting no love from the chicks"


lox


May 22, 2003, 6:24 PM
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In reply to:
the verm system bolsters the egos of 14 year old kids that can then report their numerically superior accomplishments to all the other little kids at the gym on monday. I propose this new rating system

this problem I can probably do. (tpicpd)

I dont think I can do this problem. (idticdtp)

yikes, look at that thing. (ylatt)

these can all be subdivided into plus and minus i.e.,

" bootylicious is definitely idticdtp + now that that hold broke."
or, "ever since chris downrated chunk-daddy to ylatt - mikes been getting no love from the chicks"

That's the IPS renamed.


bigdan


May 24, 2003, 6:29 AM
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The "V" scale certainly has too many grades. It is impossible to give a rating that finely divided to a problem.

Hardly. Most problems have a consensus grade.

Don't get me wrong, there's no point in emphasizing grades. The V scale is certainly inflated (just because it's harder than V14, is it really V15?). But it serves a purpose to give you an idea about what you're getting into. Maybe it's tough to tell the difference between V5 and V6, but most will agree that the difference between, say, V5 and V7, or V5 and V3 is obvious.


boretribe


May 24, 2003, 7:03 AM
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it serves a purpose to give you an idea about what you're getting into

We're talking bouldering here not multipitch trad climbing. If people spent less time with their noses in the damn guidebooks and actually looked at the boulder they would have a pretty good idea of what they were getting into.


pushfurther


May 24, 2003, 8:35 AM
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but like dude it's soooo tough to see that high through the big cloud of ganjeeeeeeee smoke...


qacwac


May 24, 2003, 3:18 PM
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As to the original question, there's no different grade for overhanging, off balance, slab etc problems. Of course a typical V4 slab problem is going to have holds much smaller than a V4 overhanging problem. But a V5 off balance problem is supposed to be harder than a V4 overhanging problem and a V5 overhanging problem is supposed to be harder than a V4 slab problem.

As to how hard a problem is on the V scale. Undescribable. You've just got to get out there on established problems and find out from experience. And it takes a while because there are V1's that I haven't sent yet but many V3's I have and a couple V4's. So my judegement is still a little screwy.


bigdan


May 24, 2003, 6:53 PM
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In reply to:
We're talking bouldering here not multipitch trad climbing.

Is that right? Thanks for clearing that up!

In reply to:
If people spent less time with their noses in the damn guidebooks and actually looked at the boulder they would have a pretty good idea of what they were getting into.

So you can pinpoint the V-grade of a problem just by looking at it? That's impressive, cause most can't.

In your rush to sarcasm, you missed the point.

For people without your magical powers, grades will help them find something in their range of difficulty.

Myself, I love guidebooks. I don't use them for finding problems or identifying grades, but they are invaluable for getting directions to a specific area.


boretribe


May 25, 2003, 7:22 PM
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So you can pinpoint the V-grade of a problem just by looking at it? That's impressive, cause most can't.
I couldn't tell what V-grade a problem is by looking at it, climbing it, falling off it or taking it out for a drink. I also couldn't tell you what level of boulderer I am. I don't care! What I can do by actually looking at a particular problem is tell if it is somewhat within my range of sending. If it is, I try it. If it's a highball and sketchy I wait until I have someone to spot me. If the problem kicks my ass, I'll wait a few months and try again. This is how I can gauge my progress (gauging ones progress is often brought up as an excuse to follow the V-scale.)

In reply to:
In your rush to sarcasm, you missed the point.

For people without your magical powers, grades will help them find something in their range of difficulty.
I did not miss your point and although I may have magical powers they are definitely not in the realm of climbing. The only real reason I can see someone following the V-scale of problems is competitive in nature. I don't have a problem with competition. I just got it out of my system in the '80 with triathalons. My issue is not the V-scale (or IPS or 'B' scale etc.) it is with some of the lame excuses people use to follow them.

My point still stands. If you want to know what you are 'getting yourself into' it is better to really look at the problem rather than say 'the guidebook says it's V-4 I should be able to do it'. Of the handful of problems for which I know there names and grades, at my regular bouldering spot, there is a V-0 that kicks my ass every time and a V-3 on which I do warm up laps. What level boulderer am I and what problems should I try??

In reply to:
Myself, I love guidebooks. I don't use them for finding problems or identifying grades, but they are invaluable for getting directions to a specific area.
I also have several guidebook for this reason and am in agreement with you on their usefulness in finding new spots. The big downside is that I see many people sticking to the routes in the books without doing any exploring on their own. When I go bouldering on the weekends I see crowds of people around the few main boulders (the ones with the 'classics') and walk 1/4 mile past them and have literally 1000s of problems to myself.

Come to think of it - everybody should stick to the guidebooks. I like bouldering solo.


curt


May 25, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
The "V" scale certainly has too many grades. It is impossible to give a rating that finely divided to a problem.

Hardly. Most problems have a consensus grade.

Don't get me wrong, there's no point in emphasizing grades. The V scale is certainly inflated (just because it's harder than V14, is it really V15?). But it serves a purpose to give you an idea about what you're getting into. Maybe it's tough to tell the difference between V5 and V6, but most will agree that the difference between, say, V5 and V7, or V5 and V3 is obvious.
Dan,

You disagree with me, but you have actually just helped me to make my point. If you can't be sure if something is off by one "V" grade (as you admit above) but you can tell the difference between problems separated by two "V" grades--then there are too many finely divided grades. And, that was my original assertion.

Curt


jkarns


May 25, 2003, 7:56 PM
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Where are you bouldering??!? I don't mind a 1/4 mile walk either, especially when 1000 boulders await!


bigdan


May 26, 2003, 7:55 AM
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In reply to:
If you can't be sure if something is off by one "V" grade (as you admit above) but you can tell the difference between problems separated by two "V" grades--then there are too many finely divided grades. And, that was my original assertion.

First of all, what I said was:

In reply to:
Maybe it's tough to tell the difference...

I said maybe :lol:

I agreed with you, in any case, when I said:

In reply to:
The V scale is certainly inflated (just because it's harder than V14, is it really V15?).

There are too many grades, but I do think that most problems have a grade agreed on by most people. So I don't see a need to cut the scale up and downgrade everything. It's neither practical nor necessary. The current system serves the purpose, I believe.

In reply to:
...I may have magical powers...

Elaborate...

In reply to:
My issue is not the V-scale (or IPS or 'B' scale etc.) it is with some of the lame excuses people use to follow them.

That I will agree with.

In reply to:
My point still stands. If you want to know what you are 'getting yourself into' it is better to really look at the problem rather than say 'the guidebook says it's V-4 I should be able to do it'.

When I talked about using a guidebook to know what you're getting into, I guess I was more referring to seeing the grades in an area. I agree that it's useless to look up the grade of a problem to see if you should do it. But when I'm looking at a new area, I often peruse the guidebook to find an area that has, say, several V3's to warmup, as opposed to an area that has a V0 and a V10.

For the record, I very rarely use guidebooks, I'm just defending their purpose.

Same with grades. There's so many these days who say "No grades! Grades build egos and have no other purpose!" I guess I just get tired of everything being extremes all the time.

It's good to have 'em, it's not good to emphasize 'em, that's how I see it.

Is that agreeable?


boretribe


May 26, 2003, 8:31 AM
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Is that agreeable?
Sure is.

As to the magical powers... I'm still looking. I'm only 36 so I guess they haven't developed enough to be useful as of yet.

curt I noticed that both you and bvb spent time out at Juniper Flats. Do you think it's worth the drive out from Pasadena to get some quality crack climbing. I've got Horse Flats for great granite bouldering but not a lot of cracks (an area of my climbing skills that definitely need polishing.)

jkarns The area I was referring to is Stoney Point.


curt


May 27, 2003, 5:58 AM
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boretribe,

Juniper Flats has some very nice crack climb bouldering. I think there may be some encroaching housing development there--otherwise I would not hesitate to recommend it. In other words, I am not sure how access is there these days. Also, unlike some of the higher elevation SoCal bouldering areas, Juniper Flats will be quite hot until fall comes.

Curt


boretribe


May 28, 2003, 9:55 AM
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Any cooler areas you can recommend for crack bouldering around here? I'm going to try and hit Juniper Flats early 6am - noon to beat the major heat but a cooler alternative would be nice. To think I used to work construction in 100+ heat. Oh well that was over 10 years ago.

Horse Flats tomorrow morning, maybe Juniper Flats next week.

Thanks,
Geoff


mreardon


May 29, 2003, 11:28 PM
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To the original post, there are four general systems that people use for bouldering. The big issue is that an overhanging crimp problem is completely different than a slab, a 6 foot 200 pound guy has different strengths than a 5 foot 90 pound woman. So bouldering is tough to rate beyond any general specifics.

1. B-System which is a sliding scale meant to move upwards as the standards get higher.
2. V-System made for those who really are trying to get granular and pinpoint a "number".
3. The Yosemite decimal system.
4. The "easy" "moderate" "hard" and "What the f@#k?" system for most of the rest.

Anything else provides nothing further than what is above. Curt said it best, check out the rc.com recognized definitions to get a start. Beyond that, just start pulling.


crack_climber


May 30, 2003, 4:33 AM
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Thanks all! Helped to clear up my mind a little bit, and then muddy it back up again just to realize that....the scales don't matter....just start pulling... :)


flyinghatchet


May 30, 2003, 8:42 PM
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In reply to:
To the original post, there are four general systems that people use for bouldering. The big issue is that an overhanging crimp problem is completely different than a slab, a 6 foot 200 pound guy has different strengths than a 5 foot 90 pound woman. So bouldering is tough to rate beyond any general specifics.

1. B-System which is a sliding scale meant to move upwards as the standards get higher.
2. V-System made for those who really are trying to get granular and pinpoint a "number".
3. The Yosemite decimal system.
4. The "easy" "moderate" "hard" and "What the f@#k?" system for most of the rest.

Anything else provides nothing further than what is above. Curt said it best, check out the rc.com recognized definitions to get a start. Beyond that, just start pulling.

You forgot the IPS. To me it makes the most sense, not focusing on numbers too much but having enough grades to know how hard the problem is and to work for a certain difficulty without being a "number chaser".

IPS4LYFE


curt


May 30, 2003, 9:24 PM
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Mike Reardon didn't say that there were no other ratings scales. What he said is: "Anything else provides nothing further than what is above."

The IPS is a good example of this. If you use the "B" scale of Gill's, perhaps with plus and minus (as many of us did for years) you have something similar to the IPS.

Curt


flyinghatchet


May 30, 2003, 9:35 PM
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curt/mreardon

I didn't notice that sentence. Sorry about that, I didn't mean to come off as a know-everything jerk or something.


mreardon


May 30, 2003, 9:46 PM
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Hey there Hatchet, I didn't mean to purposely exclude IPS, but it's really only pushed by one or two individuals in a very limited area and merely a reiteration of either the B system which has been standard for a couple decades, or the easy/moderate/hard/whatthe? which has been around since the dawn of trying to rate any climb.


flyinghatchet


May 31, 2003, 3:07 AM
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In reply to:
Hey there Hatchet, I didn't mean to purposely exclude IPS

That's cool, I should have read your first post closer. Sorry if I came off as a jerk.


alpinerock


Jun 1, 2003, 12:18 AM
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I think that they should redo the V scale so that each grade is a certain move EX. V1=sloper V2=heel hook and so on..

btw
Lox i have yet to hear an intelligent well thought out response from you and until then STOP DISSING ON OTHER peoples IDEAS!!!


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 12:55 AM
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I agree with Curt and see no reason why the B-system is no longer used ! If makes perfect sense and could have been expanded with time.


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 1:58 AM
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The problem with the B-scale is that it depends on the number of people who have ascended the bolder problem.

Obviously, with an increase in people attempting and doing hard bolder problems, the ratings need to respect the difficulty of the problem, not just whether or not the problem is obscure or the area's hardest.

So, the b-scale has inadequacies which were addressed in the v-scale.

But the v-scale panders to the ego of it's creator. It is where egos are stoked and insulted. It is rarely inspected and pursued in its purest form.

The IPS, an inbetween of the two scales both deals with and accounts for the inadequacies in the two systems and the problem of scales becoming more homogenous between areas, as the scale is vagues enough to simply be a reference point, not a history of the climbs ascents or a point of contention for peeps of varying heights.

Having boldered under the b, v, and yds scales, I can honestly say that a day discussing IPS grades is WAY MORE ENJOYABLE for everyone involved.

And isn't that what it's all about ?!"?!?


fieldmouse


Jun 1, 2003, 3:49 AM
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only the b3 rating is dependent on the amount of people that have done it, and is never used anyway.


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 4:00 AM
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Fieldmouse is right, it only apply to the B3 grade and just like YDS it could have gone beyond B3, just like the YDS went beyond 5.9. Pretty simple! Gill had the right idea and maybe we should have stayed with it.


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 4:37 AM
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You guys seriously think there are only 3 striations to the spectrum ?!?!?

I'd contend there are at least 4...

At least, there are 4 places people typically plateau.


climber49er


Jun 1, 2003, 5:02 AM
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In reply to:
At least, there are 4 places people typically plateau.

Lox, would you expound on that a bit please?

I am not sure I understand this...

Thanks


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 5:32 AM
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Sure.

There is the initial hump in the learning curve... EZEZ. vb-v1 ish. This, with some instruction is easily surmountable.

Then, there is the first plateau... v4 and harder.

It's pretty easy to get to v3 and then just chill, build up experience and then work through v4s and maybe a v5 or so.

Then, v7. Stumper.

v10 is the same way.

I would also imagine there are a bunch more peeps sending v11 and v12 than v14 and v15.

Why not have a grading system which adequately reflects these different levels, without really forcing peeps to be so SPECIFIC.

I mean... isn't that why the b-scale is so adored ?!?!?

But you CAN improve on the v1.0


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 6:48 AM
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In reply to:
Sure.

There is the initial hump in the learning curve... EZEZ. vb-v1 ish. This, with some instruction is easily surmountable.

Then, there is the first plateau... v4 and harder.

It's pretty easy to get to v3 and then just chill, build up experience and then work through v4s and maybe a v5 or so.

Then, v7. Stumper.

v10 is the same way.

I would also imagine there are a bunch more peeps sending v11 and v12 than v14 and v15.

Why not have a grading system which adequately reflects these different levels, without really forcing peeps to be so SPECIFIC.

I mean... isn't that why the b-scale is so adored ?!?!?

But you CAN improve on the v1.0

Back in the day, we used to apply these bouldering grades regularly.

B1-
B1
B1+
B2-
B2
B2+

This gives you 6 grades to work with--a reasonable number, no? It fits in with Lox's requirement of "at least 4" striations. Also, I contend that the criticism of the "B" scale sliding with time may no longer be valid. (i.e. the hardest bouldering and highest climbing difficulties may have reached near parity.)

Curt


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 8:40 AM
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Well this is the first that I personally have heard of this "expanded b-scale"... which is just the IPS reworded.

This is a newschool sport, remember ?!?!?!

kinneloa4lyfe.


fieldmouse


Jun 1, 2003, 3:27 PM
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If this is the first you've heard of this "expanded" B-scale, then you obviously are either an idiot or havent been around very long. btw-the ips is the b-scale reworded, not vice-versa. From being such an authority on flagstaff boulder problems, you should know that just about every problem put up before the limestone age uses this scale. (b?+/-)

p.s. bouldering is most certainly not a newschool sport.


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 3:28 PM
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V0 to V7 = B1- to B1+
V8 to V13= B2- to B2+
V14 to whatever = B3- to B3+
After that let's move on to B4
Still pretty simple and still works. Just something to think about.
You guys are trying to invent new ways for something that was old and established and something that works well.


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 3:38 PM
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Sorry, but I forgot about the slash grade. B1+/B2- which expand the B system even more. What the hell is IPS? I must really be behind the times.


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 3:49 PM
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Lox, you are really showing your age now (young) by making such a arrogant statement that bouldering is a "new school sport". I hate to break it to you but your "extreme generation" did not invent the game of bouldering or its grading system! You might want to go to Jenny Lake Boulders in the Teton or the Needles of South Dakota and look at some of the problems that were put up in the late 50s and early 60s by some guy named John Gill. It just might change your distorted look at the history of bouldering.


fieldmouse


Jun 1, 2003, 4:23 PM
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In reply to:
Sorry, but I forgot about the slash grade. B1+/B2- which expand the B system even more. What the hell is IPS? I must really be behind the times.

bob d- Ips stands for ice pond scale. It pretty much parallels the b-scale but is more confusing and used only by people from connecticut and texas.

andy h (formerly of boulder)


fieldmouse


Jun 1, 2003, 4:37 PM
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the bottom line is this-using a numerical system to index the difficulty of a boulder problem mimics capitalism and is therefore evil. Think about it-


kalcario


Jun 1, 2003, 4:40 PM
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Why not just adopt the font scale, 7a-b-c+ etc. Seems less contrived and pointless than spraying, er saying "it's B1+/B2-". Oh wait...bouldering IS contrived and pointless, never mind...


hosgh


Jun 1, 2003, 4:41 PM
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When people compare bouldering to sport routes, do they compare the ratings of boulders to the hardest moves of the sport routes, or just on average what the moves feel like :?: Or like "wow, this sequence feels like it could be part of a 5.12..." or more like "wow, this could be the crux move of a 5.12..."?

I know that it is difficult to compare them, but just a little help on this problem would be appreciated :D


kalcario


Jun 1, 2003, 4:58 PM
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*or more like "wow, this could be the crux move of a 5.12..."? *

The only thing that boulders and sport routes have in common is single move difficulty, therefore it's pretty common to describe a 13a, for instance, as "60 feet of 12b to a V4 crux" or in the case of Biographie extension, " V9 to 12d pockets".


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 5:56 PM
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In reply to:
Oh wait...bouldering IS contrived and pointless, never mind...

At least it is actually climbing your way up something, rather that falling your way up something.

And....
In reply to:
Why not just adopt the font scale, 7a-b-c+ etc. Seems less contrived and pointless than spraying, er saying "it's B1+/B2-".

This was actually done in yosemite for some time. I have one of the older bouldering guides to the area using the Font scale. It has now been abandoned for the "V" scale, however.

Curt


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 6:19 PM
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OMg.

Look how many bites I get out of one statement I laugh my ass off making right before I go to bed... lol.

The B scale sucks.

2 few numbers and too many + or - grades.

It's stupid and confusing, the product of an unrefined knowledge of the sport. As a scale of measure it is rudimentary at best and good luck getting anyone under 35 to embrace it wholeheartedly.

The IPS scale should and will never be widespread. It will be used by those who choose to walk a faint path through thick underbrush. It is a beacon for those who reject the silly notion that "history," meaning human history and not geologic transformation, has some bearing on YOUR rockclimbing.

Hey.

No one wants to hear about YOUR rockclimbing !!!!!!11111

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHHAHAHAHAHAHASHAHAHAaa...

The more critics the IPS attracts, especially vocal, older critics with a vested interest in preserving an inherently flawed gradeing scale, the more underground and clan-like you will drive those of us who have chosen to walk the path of ultimate elegance and simplicity.

Order of the IPS is the modern day Knights Templar.


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 6:24 PM
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In reply to:
It (the "B" scale) is stupid and confusing, the product of an unrefined knowledge of the sport. As a scale of measure it is rudimentary at best and good luck getting anyone under 35 to embrace it wholeheartedly.

Yes. It was invented by John Gill. He obviously knows far less about the sport of bouldering than you do. I am somewhat surprised he has not sought you out as the ultimate source of knowledge on the topic.

Curt


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 6:35 PM
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The fact that it started simply enough at B1, B2, B3 and two of those have been split into 3 subcategories with the third grade STILL being dependent on how many strong climbers are at or have visited a certain area denotes flaws in the system.

Obviously, if each of those numbers had to be split into 3 then the scale was inadequate in its transition to modernity. Since the B3 rating is effectively lopped off the scale due to an increasing number of strong, travelling climbers, the scale is almost a third totally useless.

Again, I do not expect you to understand why the scale is flawed... you obviously both adhere to it and would love to kneel before the altar of John Gill. And, I appreciate the vocal criticism of the IPS scale.

But it is PERHAPS possible that a scale which was invented when there was only a handful of true bolderers and true bolder problems isn't capable of handling the post-sportclimbing revolution modern world of boldering.

Also... b3 is such an obvious and blatant pandering to the first ascentionist's ego. HA !

IPS isn't for everyone. You must make some difficult choices and an eventual pilgrimage. No other scale demands such dedication or work.

And isn't b2 so much better to say when people ask how hard you climb, instead of v4 ?!?!?

OMG YEs.

And one more thing... just because John Gill or Chris Sharma or freakin Fred Nicole or the Verm or whoever makes it up isn't a valid arguement as to the goodness or badness of the thing. The thing exists on it's own and any criticism I have of the b-scale is NOT a criticism or slight directed at John Gill, which is the implication of your post.

In fact, I'm willing to bet that Mr. Gill would agree to the statement: "The b-scale, in its original form, is an inadequate scale for what boldering has become."


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 6:50 PM
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In reply to:
The thing exists on it's own and any criticism I have of the b-scale is NOT a criticism or slight directed at John Gill, which is the implication of your post.

Nice attempt to retract you previous statement. Unfortunately it is already out there.
In reply to:
It's stupid and confusing, the product of an unrefined knowledge of the sport.

"the product of an unrefined knowledge of the sport" can hardly be interpreted as a mere criticism of the scale itself.

Curt


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 7:01 PM
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If I wanted to retract ANY statement I made, I would use the "edit" button.

It is a fact: people have WAY MORE bad ideas than good ideas. Think about Draw boldering. You might try 3 or 4 heel toe cams or bicycles until you find the one which best takes your weight through a move.

Why is it such blasphemy to say that the b-scale was sitable for the timeperiod in which it was invented, but trying to port that to todays boldering landscape results in confusion and ego stroking arguements.

Furthermore, Curt... I am sure John Gill is not offended by my statements. I wouldn't make an ad hominem attack against the man, and I am sure he is intellectually capable to stand up to an actual well-thought-out critique of his b-scale. I am aslo sure he is far more able to separate the two scenarios, since he is probably not as synonymous with the b-scale in his own mind as you make him out to be.

But then again, you have a history of speaking for Mr. Gill, don't you ?!?!! You know exactly what he's thinking and how he feels, eh ?!?!

You really think he appreciates you inflaming and continuing these "battles" on his behalf ?!?!

Personally, I think you are sullying the name of the father of true boldering by invoking it in your own petty squabbles with me. I am sure that John Gill really doesn't give a fuck if a small group of internet saavy bolderers choose to adopt the IPS and herald it as the answer to the shortcomings of previous systems. He doesn't climb for grades, much less grading scales, MUCH LESS the grading scale of some puck internet kidz.

And yeah, I might not have been his close personal friend for 40 years, but I feel confident in saying THAT, anyway.


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 7:08 PM
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In reply to:
["the product of an unrefined knowledge of the sport" can hardly be interpreted as a mere criticism of the scale itself.

The sport of boldering, at the time of the conception of the b-scale, was IN ITS INFANCY.

Do football players still wear leather helmets ? Do basketball players still use peach baskets ? Do wakeboards still have tapered noses ?!?!?!

It is possible to suggest that as time passes from the point of conception of an idea, there MIGHT BE more and different idea which come along and augment or change or even destroy the conventions which made so much sense during the first iteration of a sport.

To suggest these ideas is not a slight at previous ideas.

Furthermore, Curt... where is yor IRE for John Sherman ?!?! He undermined Gill TO THE MAX... and yet you reserve your mean words for me ?!?!?

Obviously, people who you respect a lot more than I have found fault with teh b-scale.

Again... your namedropping is crappy. Crappy.

And the inability to reason that change might be good gives new meaning to "Old and set in my ways."

Old and IN THE WAY ?!?!? hahahahahaha.


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 7:34 PM
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Lox,
In reply to:
The sport of boldering, at the time of the conception of the vscale, was IN ITS INFANCY.
Bouldering was hardly "in its infancy" in 1991, but that's not really worth arguing about.

My main point (pissing contest aside--for the moment) is that the bouldering world hardly needs another new and obscure difficulty rating system. There are tons of them--and they only serve to confuse things.

If you look in the back (p. 287) of Stone Crusade, 2nd ed. by John Sherman, you will see a bouldering scale correlation that I put together with the help of many others. It includes:

The YDS
The original B scale
The expanded B scale
The V scale (Hueco)
The S scale
The Joshua Tree Scale
The UK scale
The Fontainbleau scale

The first edition of the book also included the P scale from Oak Flat, AZ. This was later dropped when the P scale was altered in an attempt to bring it into line with the V scale. The IPS scale may be fine, but is hardly any kind of breakthrough in the area of ratings concepts. Why re-invent the wheel?

Curt


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to:
Lox,
In reply to:
The sport of boldering, at the time of the conception of the vscale, was IN ITS INFANCY.
Bouldering was hardly "in its infancy" in 1991, but that's not really worth arguing about.

Typo.

It's been fixed in the original post.

You'd think you could have reasoned what I meant from the say... entire context of my post. heh. funny2me.

That aside. All those grading scales exist (and many more internationally) because at a certain point in time they meet a PURPOSE.

Over the years, a few have emerged as being "standard."

But, some people think that these standard scales are inadequate and simply do not want to adhere to the standard scale. And after having looked at the other various scales, none of them really account for how I personally want to approach climbing. The IPS scale is kind of a joke... but EVERY SCALE is really. And if you are going to be wrapped up in a joke, you might as well be wrapped up in the irony rather than the standup humor that the vscale is or the knockknock joke that the b-scale is.

And why do you care how I grade things ?!?!?

Why is my dislike of say... every scale except for the IPS scale upsetting ?!?!

In other words, I understand that your panties are all in a wad that I have the IPS scale and laud it above all... but why work yourself into a lather over something you have no control over ?!?!?

Can you not just accept that I defy your convention ?


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 7:50 PM
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Lox, you are no were near cutting-edge as you preceive yourself to be. You are walking down a path that was clear by other climbers years ago when you were still watching Mr. Rogers and Sesame St or dancing to the Backstreet Boys. The reason why IPS scale will never be widespread is because it is a rip-off of the B-system.
To Fieldmouse, what's up, dude and Vaino sends his regards. Later!


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 7:53 PM
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I don't percieve myself to be 'cutting edge' you twat !!!!!1

ha!

I am just a bit particular.

Your grasp of the situation is about as good as your grammar.


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 7:53 PM
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I don't care how you grade things. I only take issue with your idea that the IPS should become the generally accepted rating convention.

I mix and match ratings myself. I will sometimes call a problem B2 or sometimes say V7, or if it is a very long problem, I will use the YDS equivalent. Most often though, I will revert to the ancient British Adjectival system of easy, moderate, hard and really f___ing hard.

Curt


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 8:03 PM
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In reply to:
I don't percieve myself to be 'cutting edge' you twat !!!!!1

ha!

I am just a bit particular.

Your grasp of the situation is about as good as your grammar.

Lox making friends again, by insulting Bob D'Antonio, another legendary American climber. Pathetic.

Curt


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 8:10 PM
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Bob,

By the way, regarding.....
In reply to:
To Fieldmouse, what's up, dude and Vaino sends his regards. Later!
Vaino, Andy, BVB and I will be bouldering together in Flagstaff next week. I'm looking forward to it.

Curt


bobd1953


Jun 1, 2003, 8:10 PM
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Lox, did you have a hard childhood? Calling me a "twat" really hurt my feelings! I don't think I can carry-on.


curt


Jun 1, 2003, 8:14 PM
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Bob,

Why did you pose your question to Lox in the past tense?

Curt


bvb


Jun 1, 2003, 9:09 PM
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you're all confused. the woodson scale in the most venerated and logical scale in use today. 28 years in the developing.

it goes like this: if you flash it, or do it in leass than 5 tries, it's "pretty doable"

anything harder, and it's 5.11c.

5.11c....more than just a grade, it's a way of life.

btw, the Ice Pond is pretty cool, even if it IS in Connecticut. But for truly obscure classics, go the the West Tisbury boulder's on Martha's Vinyard. rated with the G&T scale...if you can do it with 6 or more G&T's in you, it's easy. if you can only do it with 4 or less G&T's under your belt it's moderate. 2 G&T's or less, it's hard. If you can only do it sober, it's 5.11c.

heh


lox


Jun 1, 2003, 9:49 PM
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In reply to:
you are no were near cutting-edge as you preceive yourself to be. You are walking down a path that was clear by other climbers years ago

I don't care how kickass a climber you were in the midsixites, there is NO EXCUSE for this sort of rambling incoherency. Put down the bottle, Bob1953, it's Sunday morning for chrissakes.

And Bob D'Antonio isn't "legendary."

Furthermore, the Ice Pond is in Putnam County, New York... and I never said that the Ice Pond Scale should be "become the generally accepted rating convention." I know it will never be, simply because it is TOO beautiful for the common mind to behold. I have simply always asserted that it is BETTER than every other rating system out there, and if you have never climbed at the Ice Pond, you are in no postion to judge the validity of the statement.

Hey, I've never climbed in Font either... so perhaps I would dig the Font scale better. But prolly not, cuz it's french.


bvb


Jun 1, 2003, 11:11 PM
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is putnam county, like really close to the conn. border? coulda swore it was conn. or maybe there's two ice ponds?, but that's doubtful. traded e-mails with some connecticut boulderers on the place about a year ago.

gin and tonics, or 5.11c. heh. how much simpler, ow much more elegant can you get than that?


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 12:11 AM
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Putnam county is near Connecticut, yeah.

But you ain't been there.

And vodka tonics are way better than gin & tonic. Urf. Gin. The hangover QUEEN.


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 12:11 AM
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Hey Lox/ Cody, I started climbing in 1971, not the 60s.


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 12:20 AM
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Call me Lox, oldster.

And welcome, n00b.


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 12:27 AM
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First Lox posts this:
In reply to:
(The B scale is) stupid and confusing, the product of an unrefined knowledge of the sport.
Clearly flaming John Gill, since the B scale was a product of Gill's creation.
Then he continues with:
In reply to:
I don't care how kickass a climber you were in the midsixites, there is NO EXCUSE for this sort of rambling incoherency. Put down the bottle, Bob1953, it's Sunday morning for chrissakes.

And Bob D'Antonio isn't "legendary."
Clearly flaming one of the top climbers in Colorado history.

Tell you what, I will plead guilty to worshiping at the altar of Gill. One thing is for sure--no one will ever worship at the altar of Cody. You are absolutely nothing more than a pathetic internet personality desperately seeking attention.

Curt


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 1:18 AM
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Curt.

First off, I hope noone ever 'worships at the altar of Cody.' Jesus. That's a little egocentric, even for me. So that statement is terribly ineffective.

Secondly, the b-scale and this new iteration, the "expanded b-scale" which you yourself list as a separate entity from the b-scale, is IMHO a less than adequate scale as a boldering rating scale.

This does not mean I dislike John Gill or fail to recognize his particular genius. The man is not holy. It is possible that the needs of certain people have moved past the scale he created at the birth of the sport.

And, as pathetic as it is that I don't drool over having been insulted by Bob D'Antonio (OMG THE BOB D'ANTONIO I CAN DIE A HAPPY MAN NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!111) it is far more pathetic to use the respect John Gill has garnered over the years against me because I vociferously prefer an obscure boldering scale.

Remember that post I made where I simulated an exchange between us ?!?! This is the part where I AGAIN iterate and clarify the motives of my words to you and you AGAIN fail to understand while continually making me address the same thing over and over again.

The least you could do is agree to disagree, admit that BobD1953's post is some fo the worst English to appear in one of these threads in a long time and recognize that SOME PEOPLE DON'T KNOW THAT 'bobd1953' IS SOME OLDSTER HARDMAN TO LIKE 15 GUYS. He's just another internet schmuck like the rest of us... noone wants to hear about his rockclimbing.

In fact, I'd go so far as to say I'd rather shoot myself in the foot than hear about 3 days nailing up the Black Canyon. There is a trad forum you know...

So, in conclusion, I know you will probably at least pretend that most of this has gone over your head, and that's ok. I appreciate that sort of irony form someone who demands each internet personae to "bring their real self" to the rc.com.

You are a shining example for the rest of us to follow.


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 1:19 AM
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In reply to:
Putnam county is near Connecticut, yeah.

But you ain't been there.

And vodka tonics are way better than gin & tonic. Urf. Gin. The hangover QUEEN.

Lox, you ninny.

I never said I'd been there...But the guys who first started developing the Ice Pond contacted me on NewEnglandBouldering.com because I opened so many new new england boldering areas in the late 80's and early 90's -- they were curious and checking to see if I had been there. Turns out, near as we could figure, I'd been to a nearby area, but not the Ice Pond proper.

If I ever do feel like going there I can line up full beta and the pro tour in about 10 minutes. As I can do for just about any "secret", "obscure" or "quiet" bouldering area in the US. With luck, in another 20 years, your contacts might be half s good as mine. Heh. But I doubt it.

If you want more info on our exchange, call the homies up...I'm sure you've got their number. Or just check the archives on NEB.com.

You have much to learn, oh brash one. You first chore will be to learn to avoid jumping to conclusions.


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 1:25 AM
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In reply to:
If I ever do feel like going there I can line up full beta and the pro tour in about 10 minutes.

I love it when people brag to me about knowing me.

http://www.0friction.com/...riction_pic_1412.jpg

My point wasn't dependent on whether or not you COULD go there... it was dependent on whether or not you HAD.

Ya dig ?


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 1:28 AM
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no offense, not that i doubt you've got the place fully sussed...but i'd be heading out some of the locals, the not an austinite who has made a visit, or makes occasional visits. maybe this fall??

oh, one more thing...when you speculated i had not been there...exactly waht WAS your point?


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 1:57 AM
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From Lox: But prolly not, cuz it's french.
And you are talking about how bad my english is...


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 1:58 AM
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In reply to:
oh, one more thing...when you speculated i had not been there...exactly waht WAS your point?

The point was that you thought it was in Connecticut, not NY.

And I could give as good a tour at the people who gave me the tour did.

I pay attention.


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 2:06 AM
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ahhh...but can you give as good head?


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 2:20 AM
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Bob... there is a difference between internet conversation and 5th grade writing...

I don't precieve myself to be any were as cutting edge as the climbers that have clear my path for me. HAHAHaaa. That climber is Fred Nicole himself, and it would be foolish to put myself anywhere NEAR him, or even a whole other slew host of climbers who climb harder than I.

I fully admit that I have a lot to learn.

But seriously, you post some bullshit drivel like your unintelligible crap and you expect to NOT take some crap for it. HA !

Too many Camp4 40's over the years ?!?!?

Actually, I shouldn't be making fun of you. You've only been climbing twice as long as I have. And I started climbing in colorado. It's no WONDER I've never heard of you. I've only been reading Climbing and Rock& Ice for the last 12 years. hahahahahahahahaha....

And I don't give head. I chow box.

After I climb.

It's bad enough that you have a crush on me, bvb... do you have to solicit me for oral sex in public forums as well ?!?!?

C'mon now.


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 2:31 AM
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Lox,

Nice picture.

http://www.0friction.com/...riction_pic_1412.jpg

Is that as high as you got? Good thing you had a couple of pads. Falls from those dizzying heights can be nasty.

Curt


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 2:40 AM
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Hey now... I just go and climb whatever the locals are climbing on. I am happy to do moves and I don't disparage peeps for being too close or too far from the ground, unless they are sportclimbing.


Your friend bvb is going to the Ice Pond, so he's going to have to deal with really small problems that he cannot do.

As well as really tall ones he cannot do.

The place has it all.

http://www.0friction.com/...riction_pic_1486.jpg

In other words... your ignorance is slightly humorous but mostly sad.


fieldmouse


Jun 2, 2003, 2:52 AM
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In reply to:
The least you could do is agree to disagree, admit that BobD1953's post is some fo the worst English to appear in one of these threads in a long time and recognize that SOME PEOPLE DON'T KNOW THAT 'bobd1953' IS SOME OLDSTER HARDMAN TO LIKE 15 GUYS. He's just another internet schmuck like the rest of us... noone wants to hear about his rockclimbing.

That is the single stupidest thing ever thought of and articulated by a human being. lets all join hands across america until lox puts his hockey helmet on the right way. That tarpitting must have really dulled your wits, what with having to parry with 13 year olds at b.com in the interim. you're gay


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 2:54 AM
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In reply to:
Bob... there is a difference between internet conversation and 5th grade writing...

I don't precieve myself to be any were as cutting edge as the climbers that have clear my path for me. HAHAHaaa. That climber is Fred Nicole himself, and it would be foolish to put myself anywhere NEAR him, or even a whole other slew host of climbers who climb harder than I.

I fully admit that I have a lot to learn.

But seriously, you post some bullshit drivel like your unintelligible crap and you expect to NOT take some crap for it. HA !

Too many Camp4 40's over the years ?!?!?

Actually, I shouldn't be making fun of you. You've only been climbing twice as long as I have. And I started climbing in colorado. It's no WONDER I've never heard of you. I've only been reading Climbing and Rock& Ice for the last 12 years. hahahahahahahahaha....

And I don't give head. I chow box.

After I climb.

It's bad enough that you have a crush on me, bvb... do you have to solicit me for oral sex in public forums as well ?!?!?

C'mon now.


heh. nice one, lox. i'll soliiecit for oreal seax any palce i cam.

and i expect to take crap for everything i post. that's the fun of it.

you've been reading climbing and rock and ice for 12 years? take a speed reading course, it'll get you through those mags fatser and leave time for some more beckett or o'neil. me...i just look at the pictures. heh.

hey, we're saving you a stool at the Monte V...and Nicole wants to meet you!


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 3:07 AM
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What part of that is 'gay' ?!?!

bobd1953 insults me online and I am supposed to thank him because he is some oldskool hardman ?!?!

How am I supposed to know that ?!?!

He sounds like an uneducated 15 year old. Throw a "dawg" in his post and he's HELLA BLING, baby...


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 3:14 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
The least you could do is agree to disagree, admit that BobD1953's post is some fo the worst English to appear in one of these threads in a long time and recognize that SOME PEOPLE DON'T KNOW THAT 'bobd1953' IS SOME OLDSTER HARDMAN TO LIKE 15 GUYS. He's just another internet schmuck like the rest of us... noone wants to hear about his rockclimbing.

That is the single stupidest thing ever thought of and articulated by a human being. lets all join hands across america until lox puts his hockey helmet on the right way. That tarpitting must have really dulled your wits, what with having to parry with 13 year olds at b.com in the interim. you're gay

Andy,

Although I respect your opinion, I must take issue with your recent post above. To correctly identify "the single stupidest thing ever thought of and articulated by a human being" would require searching through all of Lox's 2000+ posts.

Curt


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 3:21 AM
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oooh, BUUUUURNOFF, nice one curt

that one's gotta hurt.

Lox, counter-thrust please?

I'm getting more popcorn.


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 3:25 AM
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Search.

Do it.

Any actual assertation will be backed with fact or experience. Identify one of my many joking postulations and win yourself a prize.

I know what the stupidest thing I ever said was.

And I ain't sharin'...


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 3:41 AM
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oh c'mon man, don't leave us hangin....give up the goods.


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 3:45 AM
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In reply to:
Search.

Do it.

Any actual assertation will be backed with fact or experience. Identify one of my many joking postulations and win yourself a prize.

I know what the stupidest thing I ever said was.

And I ain't sharin'...

I have neither the desire nor the energy. Hell, I can't even decide what the stupidest thing you said today is.

Curt


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 3:54 AM
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Lox, thanks for all of your kind words. They really have touched a soft spot in my heart. The matter of me insulting you online, almost every one of your post is an insult to someone or someplace. Also, where did steal that last photo from?


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 4:01 AM
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It is all so clear to me now! Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham and the great Cody (lox) from the bouldering mecca of Austin, TX. I should have known better!




**edited at users request


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 4:03 AM
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I stole that last photo from www.0friction.com ... the baddest internet image site on the web.

Period.

Curt. The stupidest thing I said today is "Hmmm... I wonder what is going on in Rc.com..." lol.

BOB. Please erase my last name from the board, I would appreciate that.

Thanks.


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 4:04 AM
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it's ivan greene, cribbed from josh lowell's website. that guy has crusher strength.


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 4:09 AM
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It's been fun but I think it is time to move on. Great chatting with you, Cody. Keep up the good work!


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 4:24 AM
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In reply to:
cribbed from josh lowell's website

Check the webhost, there... SMARTGUY.

HA !


crack_climber


Jun 2, 2003, 4:46 AM
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thanks guys for all the input. I honestly think I have learned just as much by seeing how passionate everyone is about these topics. Thanks for the replies...but please continue....(I like to set back and watch).... :)


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 4:57 AM
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crack_climber,

I am sorry that your thread has been hijacked and turned into something totally off-point from your initial post. However, this happens. Hopefully before the hijacking, there were some posts from which you could gain some insight.

Curt


fieldmouse


Jun 2, 2003, 5:13 AM
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What part of that is 'gay' ?!?!

the "you're gay" comment was merely meant to expound upon the jr. high atmosphere that you have cultivated at b.com. Then again and according to history, such a legion of half-wits does needs a charismatic leader to represent their cause...


crack_climber


Jun 2, 2003, 5:18 AM
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No...I think I have learned more from the "hijacking" than from the other posts...(sorry everyone else)...I have learned a lot about the different kinds of bouldering scales...my ultimate goal in the beginning post...


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 5:28 AM
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Fieldmouse.

If you want to address b.com issues, please post there.

I would imagine that the administration of THIS SITE would appreciate that.


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 6:00 AM
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Hey Lox, (Cody) thanks for all your statements on the merits of the different bouldering rating/grading systems. It really has opened my eyes and from this day on I am going to use the pond system. What was I thinking? As to attacking me on my spelling on the internet, weak at best. If you really want to be helpful, buy one of the 14 guidebooks that I have had published and send in any corrections to the editors! Someone with your distinguished background of published writing on this and other internet sites and with the sheer beauty of your prose, any input would be deeply appreciated. Thanks, Bob


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 6:11 AM
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Why do you have to be a disrespectful idiot ?!!?!

Christ.

If you are so learned, why can you not see the incoherency in what you wrote ?!?!

I 'll never buy a guidebook from you, you cocksucker. EVEr.

I can get by with knowing hella locals rather than dealing with your drivel.


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 6:13 AM
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And again, please remove my LAST NAME from this public forum. I do not disrespect your privacy as such amd I do not even know you.

You really suck.

This is the sort of shit that makes peeps dislike you if they ever meet you. Come to me on some intellectual level... don't just use one fact that I don't want revealed to your advantage.

Plus, the site understands my desire to have this information protected.

Why do you have to be crappy like that ?!?!?


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 6:18 AM
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Ouch, that really hurts! You got to come up with something better than that.


fieldmouse


Jun 2, 2003, 6:23 AM
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that's just sad, lox. grabbing at straws...


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 6:33 AM
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Please do not post Cody's last name in your subsequent posts here. He just goes nuts and PMs all of the Moderators and Admins here to delete it. Of course if I were Lox, I would not want to be personally identified with the drivel he posts here either. Thank you for your understanding in helping Lox escape any actual responsibility for his own thoughts and actions.

Curt


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 7:16 AM
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In reply to:
Ouch, that really hurts! You got to come up with something better than that.

No I don't.

STFU n00b.

Learn how the internet works and lay off the booze.

It's affecting your ability to CONJUGATE VERBS.


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 7:25 AM
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Jeeze Lox,

You have been inordinately surly lately. I guess since your girlfriend dumped you recently, you haven't had enough conjugation yourself.

Curt


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 7:26 AM
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In reply to:
Please do not post Cody's last name in your subsequent posts here. He just goes nuts and PMs all of the Moderators and Admins here to delete it. Of course if I were Lox, I would not want to be personally identified with the drivel he posts here either. Thank you for your understanding in helping Lox escape any actual responsibility for his own thoughts and actions.

Curt
+

Yes.

I get sand in my pussy an dmy puss yhurts and I have to go to the bathroom to wash out my pussy so I don' make it all smell in here with my desire no tto hav emy last name smeared all over the placed by people too old ot bother putting together a decent sentence, forced to try to "expose me" for some shitty reason or another.

Fuck off, curt... perhaps you don't mind that shit... but then again, you don't mind your profile pic either, and thats something I'll NEVER understand.


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 8:07 AM
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In reply to:
f___ off, curt... perhaps you don't mind that s___... but then again, you don't mind your profile pic either, and thats something I'll NEVER understand.
Another intellectual response on your part. By the way, I am not bothered by my profile pic. Where is yours? You must feel the cowardly need to conceal your appearance as much as you need to deny responsibility for your own posts.

Curt


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 8:09 AM
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Rc.com administration removed my profile photo.

I still do not know why.

I post a shitton of shit to www.0friction.com

Use the search feature.


oozley


Jun 2, 2003, 8:32 AM
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do this :lol: , look in the mirror, then do this :lol: repeat until you remember your place in the universe. :)


oozley


Jun 2, 2003, 8:35 AM
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I actually came here to find out about bouldering grades, and was pleasantly surprised to find the equivalent to dogs pissing on trees. :roll:


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 8:42 AM
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In reply to:
I actually came here to find out about bouldering grades, and was pleasantly surprised to find the equivalent to dogs pissing on trees. :roll:

You came here to find out about bouldering grades, eh? Well you came to the wrong place. This thread is currently a pissing contest between determined combatants, much as you previously noted. If you really want to know about bouldering grades, try going to the left menu bar and then clicking on "grade chart" under the articles heading.

Or, do a search for one of the several dozen other threads on the same topic.

Curt


oozley


Jun 2, 2003, 8:47 AM
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yep, figured that out, thanx :)


xanax


Jun 2, 2003, 12:25 PM
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some quabling going on in here.

Do you guys really enjoy this or are your ego's at stake


mreardon


Jun 2, 2003, 12:26 PM
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Anyone who is scared of their own name. is scared of being discovered for falsehood, and truly a coward and a liar. Wizard of Oz all over again....


bobd1953


Jun 2, 2003, 4:16 PM
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Lox, does my age really bother you that much? Lacking a good father-figure in your life?


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 4:41 PM
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No, bobd1953... your complete stupidity bothers me. I mean... it's one thing to clash wits with someone who has them, but you went straight from rambling incoherency to posting my last name all over the place. Prolly cuz one of your buddys PM'ed it to you and was all: HEY, DO THIS. HE HATES IT.

Yeah, I hate it because it takes no thought or creativity and a complete invasion of one's privacy.

And Mreardon... I have no problem meeting you for a boldering session, after which you can decide for yourself if I am trying to cover up a lack of ability by requesting to be addressed by the name I have chosen.

Honestly, people... this IS THE INTERNET.

Why do I have to keep reminding you of this fact.

At the very least, you can understand the need for privacy if a prospective employer put my name into google and the engine returned this tripe.

I have much better writing samples...


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 5:00 PM
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In reply to:
some quabling going on in here.

Do you guys really enjoy this or are your ego's at stake

well, golly, i myself am enjoying this beyond all measure. throw in a few more "STFU n00bs" and this thread coulda been cloned off b.com, my home base.

by the way, xanax, i'm thinking...could you kick down some of the pink pills to us all? that and a shot of stoli, and it's GROUP HUG TIME!


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 5:05 PM
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Pfff.

2 months on the internet and he thinks I'm the videogame.

lol.


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 5:09 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
cribbed from josh lowell's website

Check the webhost, there... SMARTGUY.

HA !

Lox, it didn't take a great leap of intuition to conclude from the big up logo that that was a JL copyright photo...so i figured it came off his site.

If my being wrong on this is your idea of an intellectual or moral victory to be trumpeted in a post...well, good god man, get a grip...you're losing your touch. we both know you're capable of much more biting repartee. this...is....hella weak.

Although you have done well, young pilgrim, in your first five-on-one sparring match. b.com served as a superb training ground for me in this respect. Yoda smiles upon you.


bvb


Jun 2, 2003, 5:23 PM
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Pfff.

2 months on the internet and he thinks I'm the videogame.

lol.

fast learner, eh? heh. i was tutored by the best.....


xanax


Jun 2, 2003, 6:09 PM
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Supply is running a bit low lately

But it wouldn't hurt in here


mreardon


Jun 2, 2003, 7:45 PM
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Yeah, I hate it because it takes no thought or creativity and a complete invasion of one's privacy.

And Mreardon... I have no problem meeting you for a boldering session, after which you can decide for yourself if I am trying to cover up a lack of ability by requesting to be addressed by the name I have chosen.

Honestly, people... this IS THE INTERNET.

Why do I have to keep reminding you of this fact.

At the very least, you can understand the need for privacy if a prospective employer put my name into google and the engine returned this tripe.

I have much better writing samples...

It's not an invasion of privacy to know someone's last name or telemarketers would be out of business.

What's the internet? Does anyone here know what this internet thing is? Can I buy one at Target?

A boy ashamed of his posts under an anon. name carries no further need for discussion and has more to worry about than prospective employers.

Anyone can boulder/climb with me, most climb harder. Feel free to PM. But my mom said I can't meet strangers without knowing their name....

Is this yet another post headed to community thanks to all of us? :lol:

edited for your protection.... :wink:


curt


Jun 2, 2003, 8:49 PM
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Time for a little house cleaning. This thread hasn't been about Bouldering Grades for several pages. Moved to Community.

Curt


lox


Jun 2, 2003, 10:28 PM
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Curt... you suck so fucking bad. You are just abusing your mode priviledge because you can, you dumbshit.

Goddamn you are stupid.

Yeah, reardon... if you are going to be in an area I'll be in, we can talk. Wanting to be identified by a pseudonym is something that IS NOT UNREASONABLE on the internet. For God's sake, man... I might have to TEACH one of these people in a 101 Class. I certainly don't want them knowing that the cool professional across the mat from them, calmly putting his curriculum into words that anyone can comprehend is a seething internet lothario !

I don't step on your toes about your identity issues and I do not understand why I continue to address this.

Despite the fact that I wish to be called Lox, I am honest and upfront about my climbing experience.

Does that sound like the reasoning of a little boy to you ?

You don't have to believe that I've gone and done what I say I have... and that doesn't change the truth of the situation.

Duh.


curt


Jun 3, 2003, 1:09 AM
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In reply to:
Curt... you suck so fucking bad. You are just abusing your mode priviledge because you can, you s___.

Goddamn you are stupid.

Your intellectual superiority is inarguable. One post after another just like the one above. When a thread turns to s__t here, it gets moved to community. That is the rule.

If you don't like it, you can always go back to buggering.com, where I am sure you "fit" right in.

Curt


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 1:27 AM
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heh.

I guess you'd be a pretty good judge of things going to shit.

You done anorexics yet ?!?!

CORE UP, BOY.


curt


Jun 3, 2003, 1:37 AM
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I have done the Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff--and I know you haven't done that!!!

Curt


fieldmouse


Jun 3, 2003, 1:53 AM
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for the last time-anorexic (not anorexics) IS NOT A HARD PROBLEM. it may be a classic, well travelled one, but IT IS NOT VERY DIFFICULT. please get this through your cranium and never mention it again. poser.


fieldmouse


Jun 3, 2003, 2:01 AM
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In reply to:
I have done the Bachar Cracker of Flagstaff--and I know you haven't done that!!!

i recall that you cheated on this problem, curt. btw--was there yesterday, and got two attempts in before the blood started pouring . Thursday!


bvb-I now support your pc-7 idea.


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 2:33 AM
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Oh no... let's hear this PC7 idea.

And CURT ?!?!? What's up, man ? Not being upfront with the style of ascent ??!?! You dab ?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAaSHAHAHAHAHaaa...

Fieldmouse ! Crushing !


curt


Jun 3, 2003, 3:02 AM
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Oh no... let's hear this PC7 idea.

And CURT ?!?!? What's up, man ? Not being upfront with the style of ascent ??!?! You dab ?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAaSHAHAHAHAHaaa...

Fieldmouse ! Crushing !

Lox,

I did. I cheated, at least according to BVB. While doing the second ascent of BCOF, starting and finishing in exactly the same place, I did the problem with a different sequence from his. (my way is better)
Also I have NO idea about the PC7 thing.

Curt


mutant


Jun 3, 2003, 3:22 AM
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Lox,

You really should show more respect for you "elders".

I don't understand your interesting approach to those that can obviously climb extremely harder and better than you. You really should comply with the medication that which was prescribed to you. You would understand your place as an idiot in a mans world.

Mutant


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 3:26 AM
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that can obviously climb extremely harder and better than you

And just how hard do I climb, mutant ?!?!

And different sequencing is not cheating. Heh.


climbinganne


Jun 3, 2003, 3:40 AM
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lox why does everyone in arizona hate you???


mutant


Jun 3, 2003, 3:48 AM
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Lox,

Don't know and, don't care. Only you do, and that is what makes you inferior to those who do climb well.

Pay more attention to your insecure desires and you will understand yourself.


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 3:52 AM
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Because they cannot understand the concept that they are simply people like the rest of us. Somehow, because they are some sort of oldskool hardcore crew, they should be allowed to spray all they want, abuse moderator priviledges and constantly invoke the name of John Gill at will.

And if they get the insult they deserve for being wrong, incoherent or for just being a spraylord... they get all butthurt like "I'M SO HARDCORE, I PUT UP FAS WHEN YOU WERE IN A TWINKE IN YOUR DADS EYE."

Ha !

Screaming and kicking about how hard they climb... it's really funny. Throw a temper tantrum and tell us about the ultraclassic you opened when v5 was really hard !!!!111


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 3:56 AM
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Only you do, and that is what makes you inferior to those who do climb well.

See, Anne... what the heck is this incoherency ?!?!

How am I supposed to respond to this ? Ohhhhhhhhhhh... no wonder I can't "climb well"... it's that I am not listening to my "insecure desires."

Uhhh... right.

Too many Camp4 O'Es there, mutant ?!?!

Don't take the brown acid indeed.

And if I insult him for being an idiot who can't hold a decent conversation with someone and laugh at him for not knowing about what he's rambling on and on about... Curt will lambast me because this idiot did some hard climb before I was born.

Ha !


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 4:00 AM
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Boy... I like the "Ha!" tonight, don't I ?!?


mutant


Jun 3, 2003, 4:02 AM
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Lox,

It is still very intersting to me to see you get in an uproar because an "old schooler" can bash you to bits. Bouldering or on the net. Get a serious clue about yourself and what really matters. You spend a substantial amount af time concerned with yourself and not what climbing means to you. You are the spraylord of this site. "Don't bark with the big dogs if you are still pissing with the pups".

Mutant


curt


Jun 3, 2003, 4:06 AM
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lox why does everyone in arizona hate you???

Arizona? Christ, this is hardly limited to Arizona. I get PMs and e-mails from people across the country who think Lox is a dick.

Curt


climbinganne


Jun 3, 2003, 4:28 AM
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See, Anne... what the heck is this incoherency ?!?!

How am I supposed to respond to this ? Ohhhhhhhhhhh... no wonder I can't "climb well"... it's that I am not listening to my "insecure desires."

Uhhh... right.

Too many Camp4 O'Es there, mutant ?!?!

Don't take the brown acid indeed.

And if I insult him for being an idiot who can't hold a decent conversation with someone and laugh at him for not knowing about what he's rambling on and on about... Curt will lambast me because this idiot did some hard climb before I was born.

Ha !

lox i myself am feeling the signs of age and well ha!! you know me...thats all i need to say ;)

what was your question again???


fieldmouse


Jun 3, 2003, 4:33 AM
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Oh no... let's hear this PC7 idea.


dont get too excited, lox. As much as im sure you wish it was, it's not what you think.


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 7:20 AM
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an "old schooler" can bash you to bits. Bouldering or on the net.

Gee guy... if your idea of a good day of boldering involves "bashing someone to bits" I certainly never want to hang out with you.

And simply telling me I don't climb hard does not constitute an internet beatdown. I have climbed with many people across teh land, but not you.

Why not limit yourself to talking about things you know about...

Because someday, you might find yourself wondering who that dashing fellow flashing your project in flipflops is and lo and behold, OMG... it can't be ?!?!?

HAHAHAHHAAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAaa..

Yeah. It is.

You gotta earn your wings, somehow... right anne ?


bvb


Jun 3, 2003, 2:39 PM
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lox why does everyone in arizona hate you???

hey, now. don't count me in with the "hates" crowd. lox is my favorite video game!


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 4:21 PM
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And thats my favorite unoriginal thing you keep saying... internet N00b !!!!!!111111

Ha !


bvb


Jun 3, 2003, 7:54 PM
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And thats my favorite unoriginal thing you keep saying... internet N00b !!!!!!111111

Ha !

waitamminit...it's been used before, by someone other than me, on the two or thre occasions i've used it?

j'accuse. you are mistaken.

please cite references to sustain your claim that i did not innovate the use of the phrase "video game" to describe on-line jousting with lox.

heh.


bvb


Jun 3, 2003, 8:07 PM
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In reply to:

And just how hard do I climb, mutant ?!?!

And different sequencing is not cheating. Heh.

I'm willing to bet $100.00 that Lox has fewer than ten consensus V12 sends under his belt.

Talk about a benchwarmer...


fieldmouse


Jun 3, 2003, 8:10 PM
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lox, if you want to talk about unoriginality, allow me to reenact a typical exchange in which you are involved

human being-"rock climbing is done on rocks'
lox-"no it isnt, wtf would you say that?"
hb-"because its called rock climbing"

(1 week pause)

lox-"Ive done extensive research to prove you wrong and havent been able to yet, but you still are"
hb-"whatever, Ive already forgotten about what we were arguing about"
lox-"ha! have you done anorexics lately?"


lox will now get upset and tearfully pm all the mods to please help stop whatever gross injustice befell him during this exchange and then post a picture of himself on some texas chosspile.

.


climbinganne


Jun 3, 2003, 8:21 PM
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damn lox..are you really gonna make me climb with these folks??? :lol:


lox


Jun 3, 2003, 9:05 PM
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No.

You know how I am. I'll be chillin' under a roof with a bowl. People are welcome to come say Hi...


bvb


Jun 4, 2003, 1:48 AM
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you bring the bowl, i'll bring some spendy whisky, a cooler of ice, and leaded crystal tumblers...if you're gonna do it, do it right.

pffffffffft guuurgle


curt


Jun 4, 2003, 2:40 AM
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damn lox..are you really gonna make me climb with these folks??? :lol:

Anne,

We are very nice people, who will argue about anything--no matter how stupid.

Curt


lox


Jun 4, 2003, 3:22 AM
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CURT !

NOT CURT !!!!11

CURT !!!!!11

NOT CURT !11

CURT !!!111

NOT CURT °°!!!!!!!!111111111111

funny2me.


curt


Jun 4, 2003, 3:35 AM
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Funny to me too.

Curt


lox


Jun 4, 2003, 3:50 AM
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If you can't beat him... join him !!!!!111


lox


Jun 4, 2003, 6:04 AM
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Bump.

HASHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHa.


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