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crack_climber


May 22, 2003, 3:05 AM
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Bouldering Grades (V?)
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Can anyone help me with understanding the different bouldering grades...maybe certain features that are found on the different grades as far as overhangs, off balance moves? I am kinda in the dark when it comes to this, so any light will help! :)


curt


May 22, 2003, 3:17 AM
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Re: Bouldering Grades (V?) [In reply to]
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You can go to the left hand menu bar at RC.com here and then click on "Grade Chart" under "Articles" heading. This will give you a good approximate conversion of "V" grade difficulty to Yosemite Decimal System difficulty.

Although there are reasons why this is an imperfect comparison--this will get you started.

Curt


lox


May 22, 2003, 3:31 AM
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Re: Bouldering Grades (V?) [In reply to]
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The boldering grades range from 0 to 15... with 0 being the easiest and 15 being the hardest.

Each successive grade is generally seen to be more difficult.

Except in California, where you have to add 1.5 to any v grade or Linclon Woods, where the handicap is 2 full grades.

There are many problems with the v scale. The first is, as you have amply demonstrated, there are too many numbers. Is this a 6 or a 9 you might ask yourself ?!?!? Well... that's where teh Ice Pond Scale steps in.

v4+.

It's a way of life.


bvb


May 22, 2003, 3:42 AM
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Re: Bouldering Grades (V?) [In reply to]
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heh. i'm a 5.11c man myself. woodson scale. keeps it simple.


curt


May 22, 2003, 3:45 AM
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The "V" scale certainly has too many grades. It is impossible to give a rating that finely divided to a problem. Even if you somehow get consensus on a problem's difficulty, say in December--come back to the same problem in July and OOPS, its 2-3 "V" grades harder.

Before the "V" scale we used the "B" scale to rate bouldering difficulty. If you add +/- you get:

B1-
B1
B1+
B2-
B2
B2+

And then you have about the same number of divisions as the IPS, which does make much better sense to me.

Curt


mutant


May 22, 2003, 4:32 AM
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Re: Bouldering Grades (V?) [In reply to]
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The V scale is a way to enhance a misinterperation of a particular problem. Just rate it easy, moderate, or hard. This will leave those who look at a problem and aren't sure about it moving down the trail.

Mutant


lox


May 22, 2003, 11:01 AM
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IPS4LYFE. bitch.


neadamthal


May 22, 2003, 11:40 AM
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In reply to:
Well... that's where teh Ice Pond Scale steps in.

i think your ice is melting...


fieldmouse


May 22, 2003, 4:45 PM
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the verm system bolsters the egos of 14 year old kids that can then report their numerically superior accomplishments to all the other little kids at the gym on monday. I propose this new rating system

this problem I can probably do. (tpicpd)

I dont think I can do this problem. (idticdtp)

yikes, look at that thing. (ylatt)

these can all be subdivided into plus and minus i.e.,

" bootylicious is definitely idticdtp + now that that hold broke."
or, "ever since chris downrated chunk-daddy to ylatt - mikes been getting no love from the chicks"


lox


May 22, 2003, 6:24 PM
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In reply to:
the verm system bolsters the egos of 14 year old kids that can then report their numerically superior accomplishments to all the other little kids at the gym on monday. I propose this new rating system

this problem I can probably do. (tpicpd)

I dont think I can do this problem. (idticdtp)

yikes, look at that thing. (ylatt)

these can all be subdivided into plus and minus i.e.,

" bootylicious is definitely idticdtp + now that that hold broke."
or, "ever since chris downrated chunk-daddy to ylatt - mikes been getting no love from the chicks"

That's the IPS renamed.


bigdan


May 24, 2003, 6:29 AM
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The "V" scale certainly has too many grades. It is impossible to give a rating that finely divided to a problem.

Hardly. Most problems have a consensus grade.

Don't get me wrong, there's no point in emphasizing grades. The V scale is certainly inflated (just because it's harder than V14, is it really V15?). But it serves a purpose to give you an idea about what you're getting into. Maybe it's tough to tell the difference between V5 and V6, but most will agree that the difference between, say, V5 and V7, or V5 and V3 is obvious.


boretribe


May 24, 2003, 7:03 AM
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it serves a purpose to give you an idea about what you're getting into

We're talking bouldering here not multipitch trad climbing. If people spent less time with their noses in the damn guidebooks and actually looked at the boulder they would have a pretty good idea of what they were getting into.


pushfurther


May 24, 2003, 8:35 AM
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but like dude it's soooo tough to see that high through the big cloud of ganjeeeeeeee smoke...


qacwac


May 24, 2003, 3:18 PM
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As to the original question, there's no different grade for overhanging, off balance, slab etc problems. Of course a typical V4 slab problem is going to have holds much smaller than a V4 overhanging problem. But a V5 off balance problem is supposed to be harder than a V4 overhanging problem and a V5 overhanging problem is supposed to be harder than a V4 slab problem.

As to how hard a problem is on the V scale. Undescribable. You've just got to get out there on established problems and find out from experience. And it takes a while because there are V1's that I haven't sent yet but many V3's I have and a couple V4's. So my judegement is still a little screwy.


bigdan


May 24, 2003, 6:53 PM
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In reply to:
We're talking bouldering here not multipitch trad climbing.

Is that right? Thanks for clearing that up!

In reply to:
If people spent less time with their noses in the damn guidebooks and actually looked at the boulder they would have a pretty good idea of what they were getting into.

So you can pinpoint the V-grade of a problem just by looking at it? That's impressive, cause most can't.

In your rush to sarcasm, you missed the point.

For people without your magical powers, grades will help them find something in their range of difficulty.

Myself, I love guidebooks. I don't use them for finding problems or identifying grades, but they are invaluable for getting directions to a specific area.


boretribe


May 25, 2003, 7:22 PM
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So you can pinpoint the V-grade of a problem just by looking at it? That's impressive, cause most can't.
I couldn't tell what V-grade a problem is by looking at it, climbing it, falling off it or taking it out for a drink. I also couldn't tell you what level of boulderer I am. I don't care! What I can do by actually looking at a particular problem is tell if it is somewhat within my range of sending. If it is, I try it. If it's a highball and sketchy I wait until I have someone to spot me. If the problem kicks my ass, I'll wait a few months and try again. This is how I can gauge my progress (gauging ones progress is often brought up as an excuse to follow the V-scale.)

In reply to:
In your rush to sarcasm, you missed the point.

For people without your magical powers, grades will help them find something in their range of difficulty.
I did not miss your point and although I may have magical powers they are definitely not in the realm of climbing. The only real reason I can see someone following the V-scale of problems is competitive in nature. I don't have a problem with competition. I just got it out of my system in the '80 with triathalons. My issue is not the V-scale (or IPS or 'B' scale etc.) it is with some of the lame excuses people use to follow them.

My point still stands. If you want to know what you are 'getting yourself into' it is better to really look at the problem rather than say 'the guidebook says it's V-4 I should be able to do it'. Of the handful of problems for which I know there names and grades, at my regular bouldering spot, there is a V-0 that kicks my ass every time and a V-3 on which I do warm up laps. What level boulderer am I and what problems should I try??

In reply to:
Myself, I love guidebooks. I don't use them for finding problems or identifying grades, but they are invaluable for getting directions to a specific area.
I also have several guidebook for this reason and am in agreement with you on their usefulness in finding new spots. The big downside is that I see many people sticking to the routes in the books without doing any exploring on their own. When I go bouldering on the weekends I see crowds of people around the few main boulders (the ones with the 'classics') and walk 1/4 mile past them and have literally 1000s of problems to myself.

Come to think of it - everybody should stick to the guidebooks. I like bouldering solo.


curt


May 25, 2003, 7:45 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
The "V" scale certainly has too many grades. It is impossible to give a rating that finely divided to a problem.

Hardly. Most problems have a consensus grade.

Don't get me wrong, there's no point in emphasizing grades. The V scale is certainly inflated (just because it's harder than V14, is it really V15?). But it serves a purpose to give you an idea about what you're getting into. Maybe it's tough to tell the difference between V5 and V6, but most will agree that the difference between, say, V5 and V7, or V5 and V3 is obvious.
Dan,

You disagree with me, but you have actually just helped me to make my point. If you can't be sure if something is off by one "V" grade (as you admit above) but you can tell the difference between problems separated by two "V" grades--then there are too many finely divided grades. And, that was my original assertion.

Curt


jkarns


May 25, 2003, 7:56 PM
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Where are you bouldering??!? I don't mind a 1/4 mile walk either, especially when 1000 boulders await!


bigdan


May 26, 2003, 7:55 AM
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In reply to:
If you can't be sure if something is off by one "V" grade (as you admit above) but you can tell the difference between problems separated by two "V" grades--then there are too many finely divided grades. And, that was my original assertion.

First of all, what I said was:

In reply to:
Maybe it's tough to tell the difference...

I said maybe :lol:

I agreed with you, in any case, when I said:

In reply to:
The V scale is certainly inflated (just because it's harder than V14, is it really V15?).

There are too many grades, but I do think that most problems have a grade agreed on by most people. So I don't see a need to cut the scale up and downgrade everything. It's neither practical nor necessary. The current system serves the purpose, I believe.

In reply to:
...I may have magical powers...

Elaborate...

In reply to:
My issue is not the V-scale (or IPS or 'B' scale etc.) it is with some of the lame excuses people use to follow them.

That I will agree with.

In reply to:
My point still stands. If you want to know what you are 'getting yourself into' it is better to really look at the problem rather than say 'the guidebook says it's V-4 I should be able to do it'.

When I talked about using a guidebook to know what you're getting into, I guess I was more referring to seeing the grades in an area. I agree that it's useless to look up the grade of a problem to see if you should do it. But when I'm looking at a new area, I often peruse the guidebook to find an area that has, say, several V3's to warmup, as opposed to an area that has a V0 and a V10.

For the record, I very rarely use guidebooks, I'm just defending their purpose.

Same with grades. There's so many these days who say "No grades! Grades build egos and have no other purpose!" I guess I just get tired of everything being extremes all the time.

It's good to have 'em, it's not good to emphasize 'em, that's how I see it.

Is that agreeable?


boretribe


May 26, 2003, 8:31 AM
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Is that agreeable?
Sure is.

As to the magical powers... I'm still looking. I'm only 36 so I guess they haven't developed enough to be useful as of yet.

curt I noticed that both you and bvb spent time out at Juniper Flats. Do you think it's worth the drive out from Pasadena to get some quality crack climbing. I've got Horse Flats for great granite bouldering but not a lot of cracks (an area of my climbing skills that definitely need polishing.)

jkarns The area I was referring to is Stoney Point.


curt


May 27, 2003, 5:58 AM
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boretribe,

Juniper Flats has some very nice crack climb bouldering. I think there may be some encroaching housing development there--otherwise I would not hesitate to recommend it. In other words, I am not sure how access is there these days. Also, unlike some of the higher elevation SoCal bouldering areas, Juniper Flats will be quite hot until fall comes.

Curt


boretribe


May 28, 2003, 9:55 AM
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Any cooler areas you can recommend for crack bouldering around here? I'm going to try and hit Juniper Flats early 6am - noon to beat the major heat but a cooler alternative would be nice. To think I used to work construction in 100+ heat. Oh well that was over 10 years ago.

Horse Flats tomorrow morning, maybe Juniper Flats next week.

Thanks,
Geoff


mreardon


May 29, 2003, 11:28 PM
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To the original post, there are four general systems that people use for bouldering. The big issue is that an overhanging crimp problem is completely different than a slab, a 6 foot 200 pound guy has different strengths than a 5 foot 90 pound woman. So bouldering is tough to rate beyond any general specifics.

1. B-System which is a sliding scale meant to move upwards as the standards get higher.
2. V-System made for those who really are trying to get granular and pinpoint a "number".
3. The Yosemite decimal system.
4. The "easy" "moderate" "hard" and "What the f@#k?" system for most of the rest.

Anything else provides nothing further than what is above. Curt said it best, check out the rc.com recognized definitions to get a start. Beyond that, just start pulling.


crack_climber


May 30, 2003, 4:33 AM
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Thanks all! Helped to clear up my mind a little bit, and then muddy it back up again just to realize that....the scales don't matter....just start pulling... :)


flyinghatchet


May 30, 2003, 8:42 PM
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In reply to:
To the original post, there are four general systems that people use for bouldering. The big issue is that an overhanging crimp problem is completely different than a slab, a 6 foot 200 pound guy has different strengths than a 5 foot 90 pound woman. So bouldering is tough to rate beyond any general specifics.

1. B-System which is a sliding scale meant to move upwards as the standards get higher.
2. V-System made for those who really are trying to get granular and pinpoint a "number".
3. The Yosemite decimal system.
4. The "easy" "moderate" "hard" and "What the f@#k?" system for most of the rest.

Anything else provides nothing further than what is above. Curt said it best, check out the rc.com recognized definitions to get a start. Beyond that, just start pulling.

You forgot the IPS. To me it makes the most sense, not focusing on numbers too much but having enough grades to know how hard the problem is and to work for a certain difficulty without being a "number chaser".

IPS4LYFE

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