|
nirvana
Aug 4, 2004, 8:47 PM
Post #1 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 138
|
I am very curious about how people deal with fear when they are climbing. Obviously fear happens--whether fear of heights on beginning climbs, or fear generated by a serious epic--and it must be dealt with. Do most of you try to ignore fear (macho method)? Let yourself really feel fear (touchy-feely method)? Pray? Sing? Make jokes? Yell at yourself?
What methods do you use to set your fears aside?
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 4, 2004, 9:14 PM
Post #3 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Sometimes I whimper and run away.
Sometimes I gut it out.
Others, I self medicate until the feeling passes.
And sometimes I am fearless.
Check out the Warriors Way forum dude, its all about this question.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
nirvana
Aug 4, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #4 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 138
|
From your quote on the death wish thread re: Arno:
In reply to: trying to teach farmers the jedi mind tricks used to fool the body that all is, well, cool.
Arno's stuff is top notch, but I am curious if the only way through fear is the Warrior way. I've fallen on lead, and practiced more falling, and dealt with fear of heights and equipment failure fears, and on and on and on, and I make my increments of improvement, but I also see climbers who seem to be able to work through their fear psyche/chemistry quite effectively and with seemingly little effort. I can't help wondering how they do it.
Is it either you are innately a tough person or you learn the Warrior way? Are there other alternatives that have worked for people, I wonder?
|
|
|
|
|
jcr
Aug 4, 2004, 9:26 PM
Post #5 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317
|
Try doing a reality check, ask yourself....
Why am I scared?
Am I well protected?
Do I know how to fall?
What can REALLY happen if I fall?
Does my belayer know what he's doing?
How hard are the next moves?
etc...
If you are a responsible climber all the answers to these questions should be positive and help you keep on going.
The idea of this is to get your mind knowing that you are safe.
Hope this helps.
JC
|
|
|
|
|
bootleg
Aug 4, 2004, 9:41 PM
Post #6 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2003
Posts: 59
|
Singing sometimes helps me, or talking to my belayer. That goes under the keeping your mind off your dangers technique. If you climb trad, sooner or later you will have some run-out climbing. Fear will have to be blocked during this time so you can make the moves to make it up the run-out.
|
|
|
|
|
southbayclimber
Aug 4, 2004, 9:56 PM
Post #7 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2004
Posts: 83
|
I start shaking, then i set a piece of pro, then i am safe.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't climb for the view from thee top. I relish the fear of the climb. I like the feeling during a run out section when all my concentration is up the rock where i can see the crack widening enough for a nut placement.
If you don't want to be afraid, climb lower grades.
|
|
|
|
|
tgreene
Aug 4, 2004, 10:08 PM
Post #8 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2003
Posts: 7267
|
THINK KARMA PLACEMENTS! :shock:
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Aug 4, 2004, 10:14 PM
Post #9 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
Recently, I had a very acute sense of fear and was pleased with myself for how I handled it. I began a sport route(that I had never tried before) that was rated within my abilities, but the first clip was pretty high and the landing was dangerous. The first crimps felt decent, so up I went. When my feet were about six feet off of the ground I had a wave of panic and began looking down to see if I could back off, but it felt too thin to do so. My head flooded with fear. Then, some sort of clarity took over as I realized that it would be easier and safer to keep climbing. A second and a deep breath later I was calm and focused- got that first clip and finished the rest of the climb for the on-sight. In this case, neccesity won out over fear- fear was surely going to get me hurt. I hope none of that sounds macho, because I felt anything but macho on that climb!
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Aug 4, 2004, 10:36 PM
Post #10 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
i consult my master warning panel as indicated in chapter 18 of FOTHs.
duh.... :roll:
honestly, if i'm scared there usually isn't a rational reason, and if some danger is present it usually doesn't take long for me rationlize my situation and move into problem solving.
odly enough i've not yet to this point in my climbing career ever really developed a moment of true serious fear, i've freaked myself on lead, and i've taken some scary wippers (and avoided some scary wippers), but nothing really gripping (of course, you kinda gotta be a bonehead to epic while craggin in the midwest.....). though it happens EVERY time i head out to do industrial ropped access on a building. despite tons of the sweetest gear money can buy, building anchors off of structural steel and having everything redundant per OSHA (even ropes), dropping over the parapet on a skyscraper is just absolutly freaky. its not like a rock/mountain with cracklines you can protect or a hold you can grip or crack you can jam, all you got is the anchor on the roof above and a big ass void below. despite doing it a couple times a month and doing some way tall buildings i still get scared sick getting ready to head over.
i think part of it also has to do with that i'm rapping buildings for work not recreation. i've done freehanging raps off of single bolts while climbing and not had a moment of anxiety. its allot easier to rap off of something when you've first climbed it i guess.
though as soon as i get out on it with the ropes weighted i just smile and cruise.
photo
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Aug 4, 2004, 10:52 PM
Post #11 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
I just keep climbing. If the feeling sticks around, I listen. If it fades, I keep going. You almost always have the option to bail. You don't always have the option to do the route twice.
|
|
|
|
|
tyify
Aug 4, 2004, 11:27 PM
Post #12 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2003
Posts: 905
|
Enter a state of calm. Do not FREAK out as this is the worst thing you can do in the situation. Addrenaline can cloud the brain. Think about what you are going to do and then do it. Simple as that. The doing it is the hard part :wink: . Often times moves that look super sketchy are in truth not to hard.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Aug 4, 2004, 11:46 PM
Post #13 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
One thing that really helped me was realizing that i shouldn't plan a climb by where the bolts are i formulate my climb by where the rest holds are, i don't know if that makes sense, but it worked for me. Another thing that has helped me is to formulate a sequence and then as soon as i visualize my self climbing it sucessfully in my head i instantly take action and try it, therefore breaking down the climb into little boulder problems, also keeping my mind off of the grade helps too, i often have my partner choose a climb out of the guide book for me thats he thinks is within my abilitys, he never tells me what grade it is till after i have either completed or lowered off of that particular climb.
|
|
|
|
|
chalked4dyno
Aug 5, 2004, 12:40 AM
Post #14 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2004
Posts: 150
|
when I get the jibblies, I just take some deep breaths and try to assess my situation... Am I really gonna die/be mayemed/mildly wounded???
Sometimes when I should be scared, I'm not. That's way worse than being scared. It's healthy to be scared on a X-rated runout near your limit.
|
|
|
|
|
modman
Aug 5, 2004, 12:58 AM
Post #15 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 10, 2004
Posts: 52
|
focus
|
|
|
|
|
rtc
Aug 5, 2004, 1:37 AM
Post #16 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 53
|
live it......accept it.....embrace it...... its a great motivator :)
|
|
|
|
|
mary
Aug 5, 2004, 1:42 AM
Post #17 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2004
Posts: 10
|
I like to tell myself how good i will feel when i work thru the fear. It always give me a confidence boost when i overcome a fear on the rock. Mostly i do it by singing some hard core song that pops into my head. Fear must be conqured in order to become a better climber.
|
|
|
|
|
alpinedude
Aug 5, 2004, 1:49 AM
Post #18 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 31
|
I just did my first lead climb last month and I was pleasantly frightened. I looked down to my last piece of pro, realized that I should protect again, and then started shaking ("sewing machine leg" as it's called in FOTH). I was so close to falling, but I told myself to focus and started talking to myself. "It's alright, it's alright, you're going to make it, you're going to make it..."
And I did.
|
|
|
|
|
10ftdrp
Aug 5, 2004, 2:00 AM
Post #19 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2004
Posts: 107
|
think of what will happen if you never try. its jsut falt out dissapointing to stop because of something you can overcome. jsut make yourself calm down and focus on the move you need to make.
|
|
|
|
|
galyansrockgirl
Aug 5, 2004, 2:23 AM
Post #20 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2003
Posts: 36
|
I have freaked out before when I've climbed. The very first time I toped out on something I started panicking, and don't know why. I'm not afraid of heights. I think I'm more scared of swinging and hitting into something, then anything. The others times that I have freaked out, I just let go, calm down, tell myself I can do it and hear my friends from below motivating me, so I grab back on and finish.
|
|
|
|
|
xclimber47
Aug 5, 2004, 3:35 AM
Post #21 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2004
Posts: 54
|
Well, basically the only time I would be nervous on a climb would be leading, and now that I think it through its a lot less scary. If you imagine the exact same move your fretting about as if you were doing it on a top rope, it makes it seem much easier to me. If I get nervous I'm less likely to do any kinda dynamic move or high step ups or stuff like that, but if you calm down you will realize that your mind is making you think things are much harder than they are. Just look at whats in front of you and don't even think about the fact your 10 feet above your last piece of protection, makes things much easier.
|
|
|
|
|
organic
Aug 5, 2004, 4:05 AM
Post #22 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 2215
|
I try not to think when I climb, otherwise in some less than ideal situations I would be paralyzed by fear. I climb, I free my mind, I say stupid remarks to my belayer but I never think about how far I am above my pro, I either climb or I do not. Do some placements suck sometimes, yeah! But thinking about it is not going to change anything. If it is a bad piece place another, if there is no place then climb higher, if you know you cannot then bail. Do not think just do! I will not fear, fear is the mindkiller.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Aug 5, 2004, 5:20 PM
Post #23 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: Is it either you are innately a tough person or you learn the Warrior way? Are there other alternatives that have worked for people, I wonder?
I am not a tough person. I would give DMT a run for the milk-toast award. But I have to admit that when these threads (and the related ones on falling) come up, I don't really understand the fear issue people seem to have. I wonder, why not?
To me, fear on a climb is just like any other obstacle you meet on a climb - figuring out how to overcome it is part of what makes the climb fulfilling. But I am calm, and perhaps that's my secret weapon. Also, through 25 years of regular bike riding and 10 years of gymnastics when I was a kid, I have no problem with a fear of falling. I do fear bad gear, long runouts, bad weather, impending darkness, big tough looking dudes with handlebar moustaches and motorcyles, and women with poise enough to wrap me around their little finger.
But I guess my point is that I've found my secret weapon, which is to calmly think through the situation, come to a conclusion, and then I have no problem following through with it. But everyone's different.
That's the problem with a "warrior's way". Just keep climbing and Find Your Own Way(TM). Okay, I'm going to TradeMark that phrase and write a book teaching you my step by step method to find your own way.
Anyone remember that line from Life of Brian? "Yes, we are all individuals!" Best line of the movie, IMHO.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Aug 5, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #24 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
i try to ignore it and just focus on the next move.
|
|
|
|
|
rockhound71
Aug 5, 2004, 6:49 PM
Post #25 of 68
(5309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2002
Posts: 225
|
Pee my pants :oops:
Actually, this what usually happens in a fearful situation with me:
1. I say, "Interesting."
2. I look around and see what my options are. Back off or keep going?
3. I tell myself, "Well, you've got no choice, gotta keep going."
Does it work? For me, so far, so good. As most climbers say, it's 90% mental, and it's true. You just have to suck it up 8^)
Casey
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
