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dynoguy
Feb 15, 2005, 1:20 AM
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I'm headed of to Bishop in a month and would like to get a little stronger before I leave.
I can do a pull-up using two fingers from each hand, but I would like to be able to do a few pull-ups using only 1 finger from each hand.
What some good finger strength exercises I can do to boost my fingers?
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slablizard
Feb 15, 2005, 1:28 AM
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one finger per hand pull ups to improve one finger per hand pullups strenght might be good.
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dontmaytagme
Feb 15, 2005, 1:34 AM
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I use a "toy" from a friend of mine from ironmind.com.. it isolates each finger.. so, I do one pullup with four fingers.. the second pullup without the "pointer finger", the third without the "pointer and index", the fourth without the "pointer, index and ring". Thus far, I am able to do a few pullups just using my two "pinky" fingers.
ja.
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dynoguy
Feb 16, 2005, 6:25 AM
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i thought the pointer and index were the same finger.
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tyson16v
Feb 17, 2005, 6:59 PM
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ironmind.com rules. they have the best training stuff for the "squose" (squeeze + close).
but if you are going to bishop, pulling on mono's is not what you are gonna need. you should try training on small ass holds. 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 pad crimps and open handed crimps is what you are going to want to train and you can do this on any finger board or campus board. one finger pull ups are great but they really have nothing to do with climbing. work on the size of the hold instead. also check out http://www6.mailordercentral.com/ironmind/products.asp?dept=9
this is at ironmind.com. the captains of crush own it.
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cragclimber_99
Feb 17, 2005, 7:15 PM
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Ive got a Dyna-Flex, its for forearms and hand-finger strenght www.dynaflex-intl.com it works with centifugal force and gets up to 13,000 rpms and is equal to a 35ld dumbell. Ive been using it for about 2 or 3 weeks now and i can tell a huge difference in my finger strenght and forearm stregth as well as stamina. Id really recomend it. Make sure to get the Pro model though for the 35lb; others are 25lb as i understand.
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xjicex
Feb 17, 2005, 8:23 PM
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In reply to: ironmind.com rules. they have the best training stuff for the "squose" (squeeze + close). but if you are going to bishop, pulling on mono's is not what you are gonna need. you should try training on small ass holds. 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 pad crimps and open handed crimps is what you are going to want to train and you can do this on any finger board or campus board. one finger pull ups are great but they really have nothing to do with climbing. work on the size of the hold instead. also check out http://www6.mailordercentral.com/ironmind/products.asp?dept=9 this is at ironmind.com. the captains of crush own it.
I can't believe all the crazy grip stuff this site has. Ever see the Monsters of Mash? I think it is some dirivative of an ironmind product.
http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/mashmonster.htm
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tyson16v
Feb 17, 2005, 11:31 PM
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yeah, dude, these guys are crazy. they will get you the squose.
captians of crush own us all.
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fluxus
Feb 18, 2005, 6:44 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2003
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In reply to: you should try training on small ass holds. 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 pad crimps and open handed crimps is what you are going to want to train and you can do this on any finger board or campus board. one finger pull ups are great but they really have nothing to do with climbing. work on the size of the hold instead.
There is a big increase in the risk of injury and perhaps no real training benefit from training on such small holds. Training on holds that are the size of your first pad is fine. One and two finger pullups are party tricks, As are all those silly gadgets that people are recommending here (as is always the case on RC.com) If your only concern is developing your forearm muscles for crimping then the advice to use a hang board is a good idea. Boards are easy to find and there are at least 3 -4 good workouts available for them. If you want to climb better, this is a different issue all together.
peace
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