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vertical_reality
Jun 20, 2002, 2:23 PM
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Please someone help!!! Does anyone know how to train my forearms so that they aren't hurting like crazy after only a few minutes of climbing?
Here's what I think the problem is... I over grip and I have alot of upperbody strength so I rely on my arms to do alot of the work. Can anyone offer some advice to help overcome both these handicaps and also offer some exercises to help work those muscles.
Thanks!
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Everyone, thanks for all the advice. Some of you made me look at what I was doing in a different way... a big one was to hang off the holds, don't grip them (I do this when bouldering but didn't use it while climbing... like so many other things I've learned from bouldering). Everyone mentioned technique and I use the step, turn, flag, reach thing like everyone else but when I actually thought about what I was doing I realized I was only using it to reach for the next hold. I was using it more to keep me against the wall and to stabilize myself while reaching but as soon as I get the hold I haul myself up... I was totally forgetting to push with my legs. For anyone else that does this, I've started to climb some walls without using handholds. You can notice a BIG difference... my calfs are killin after. I've also started to say "PUSH" everytime to remind myself to push with my legs. It may sound funny to hear me up there saying "push" every 3 seconds but I'll gladly leave my pride at the door if it'll help me climb better.
Again, many thanks to everyone that read this and took the time to make a few suggestions, and I hope that this helps someone else along the way.
[ This Message was edited by: vertical_reality on 2002-06-24 07:12 ]
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rico
Jun 20, 2002, 2:46 PM
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try not to use your arms to much...take some easy routes and practice as much as you can...you will gain your forearm strenght automatically...
When you're climbing an easy route you don't need your arms that much (or only for holding on to the wall) the rest is footwork...
Good luck
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orestes1724
Jun 20, 2002, 3:01 PM
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get better foot work, making yuor arms stronger will help. but if you get better foot work it will help a lot more. find a good foot placment for each move, so your using your arms the least amount possible.
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jman
Jun 20, 2002, 3:28 PM
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The biggest problem I've seen when people just begin climbing is they try to pull themselves up the route. They squeeze the life out of hand holds and yank themselves up, and thus they pump out their arms pretty quick. As you climb more you should work on footwork and shifting your weight onto your feet, and not gripping hand holds but hanging off of them. The better you get at not pulling yourself up a route the less your arms are going to get pumped out. If you really want to focus on strengthening your arms and increasing your endurance you should do laps on climbs (up climb and down climb) or boulder.
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orestes1724
Jun 20, 2002, 4:05 PM
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i forgot oe thing
when you are climbing, instead of bending your arms, try to keep them straight as much as you can. that will help stop flash pump.
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jt512
Jun 20, 2002, 4:44 PM
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Quote:
Please someone help!!! Does anyone know how to train my forearms so that they aren't hurting like crazy after only a few minutes of climbing?
Here's what I think the problem is... I over grip...
Well, stop doing that, then. Each time you grab a hold, tell yourself only to use as much grip strength as necessary to stay on. When you pick up a glass of orange juice, you don't squeeze the glass with all your might. You use just enough of a grip, not to drop the glass. The same applies to grabbing holds. Use the minimum strength necessary.
Quote:
...and I have alot of upperbody strength so I rely on my arms to do alot of the work. Can anyone offer some advice to help overcome both these handicaps and also offer some exercises to help work those muscles.
You need to climb with your feet and use your arms less. Watch how skilled female climbers climb, and immitate their movements.
As to exercises, YOU DON'T NEED THEM! You need to stop overgripping and learn to use your feet more. Then your forearms won't get so flamed. You need to improve your technique, not your strength. Proof: Watch the 14 year-old girls at your gym float up routes you can only dream of!
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-06-20 09:48 ]
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cedk
Jun 20, 2002, 5:23 PM
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If you're having problems after just a few minutes of climbing you may be experiencing the "flash pump" You're asking your arms to do too much too soon. The way to avoid it is to take 15 minutes or so to WARM UP. Hang on some big holds for a bit then rest. Traverse on a vertical wall with all holds and concentrate on your feet, just make sure your forearms are warmed up good before you tie in. Then follow everyone elses advice.
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mauriceb
Jun 20, 2002, 5:41 PM
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I've only tried this a couple of times myself but I've heard it at my local gym and from other experienced climbers. Try climbing without reaching for handholds above you head. If you don't reach for the huge jugs that allow you to pull yourself up the wall you'll have no choice but to concentrate on using your feet to get up the climb. By not reaching about your head your hands are there more for balance, etc. than just for pulling.
The warming up idea is also key.
maurice
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djpuckle
Jun 20, 2002, 5:42 PM
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I've been trying a few things that seem to work well. But I'm not a personal trainer so don't hurt yourself doing this stuff.
First I would try to just simply hang off edges (Door jams work, a 2/4 screwed into a wall would work too) for as long as you can. See: www.climbxmedia.com - Protips
Second:Pullups, try to do a few sets of 15 - 20 every day. After you can do four sets of fifteen start pulling up and holding there with one arm at a time for 20 seconds. MAKE SURE YOU CAN DO 4 SETS OF 15 PULLUPS BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS!!! See: www.trainingforclimbing.com (Eric Horst)
He also says to relieve the pump shake your arms out above your head (Like your waving at people). This will help blood remove waste (Lactic acid) that builds up in your arms causing the pump. Don't just let the arms hang there. Next time your really pumped, check out the veins in your arm and you'll see how fat they get ('Cause the blood's having a hard time fighting gravity). when you hold your arms up and let them drain the veins dissapear.
Hope it can help some,
-Sean
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jt512
Jun 20, 2002, 5:46 PM
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Quote:
First I would try to just simply hang off edges ...
Second:Pullups...
Bzzzzt. Thanks for playing. His problem is not strength. By his own description, he is climbing with poor technique: overgripping and pulling himself up with his arms. The last thing he needs is more strength; he's using too much already. Strength training will only reinforce his tendency to rely on strength. He needs to work on his technique.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-06-20 13:39 ]
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jman
Jun 20, 2002, 5:58 PM
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I agree with jt. You shouldn't hang off edges for the problem that you are having. Getting pumped out quick as a beginneer is a footwork and technique problem. There are some good suggestions above like...watch how some women climb and how they shift their weight, climb without reaching overtop of your head for holds. Hanging on edges is good for developing finger stregth and doesn't do much for arm strength or endurance ,but as a new person to climbing be careful not to overdo hanging on your fingers or you may risk pulling a tendon.
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dren
Jun 20, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Vertical: Get some 15-20lbs dumbbells, take one in either hand and and curl your hands up, the move would be like flexing your forearm basically, i always do it from a dead hang i dont bend my arm or anything, you will feel the burn after about 20 depending on how strong they are now i do way too many to count anymore. Anyway that will help you alot and bouldering really helps just go crazy bouldering
[ This Message was edited by: dren on 2002-06-20 12:52 ]
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sidepull
Jun 20, 2002, 8:35 PM
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I agree with everything J512 has posted -- follow that advice!
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ralst4
Jun 22, 2002, 8:28 PM
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As far as training to strengthen forearms and help with endurance, I bought a Dynaflex hand exerciser. It works your hands, forearms, biceps, etc. It is great because I can use it anywhere anytime and it really gives my arms a great pump. I agree with what everyone above has said and I also picked up some great hints. Great topic that I need some help with to.
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kevlar
Jun 23, 2002, 1:47 AM
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Wonderful advice from so many
I started out trad climbing an not until I got to the local wall at the park did I experience the formarm pump...I learned it was from using to much of my weak upper body and to little of my strong legs...I start now with a little time of just hanging (5-10 mins) and then on my first circuit I keep my reach to no higher than my shoulders. I have done this now for 4 weeks once a week and no longer have forearm pain...due somewhat to conditioning but moreso to warming up better...Good advice from all... Happy climbing
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drew_jones
Jun 24, 2002, 2:05 PM
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I had the same problem (still do to a point). The one thing I tell myself is "use your legs to get you where you want to go. On Friday I climbed for three hours at the gym, and I kept thinking "Use legs". When I did that, the route was a lot easier overall. That would be my suggestion, but I have just started and I have the same problem at times, especially on easier routes.
Hope this helps,
Drew
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estebandb
Jun 25, 2002, 12:38 AM
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i don't know how good of any idea this is, but a guy at my gym saw me using my arms too much and told me to try a 5.5 with a nice slpoe that looked really easy without using my arms at all...i mean, just for balance. I was surprised i did it and it was the first time my legs were soared after climbing(i did that a lot, not onlone wall lol) so i guess that's a good sign. Plus, it was fun
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jammer
Jun 27, 2002, 3:17 PM
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If you don't warm up you burn out. A climber told me that vitiman C helps out. I began drinking orange juice daily and I don't burn anymore, yet my strength is gaining ... maybe I'm not trying enough
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socialclimber
Jun 28, 2002, 12:46 PM
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A training method sometimes use is to climb on the bouldering wall without grabbing holds above sholder height. Because you can't hang or haul you are encouraged to really think about how you are using your feet
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radistrad
Jun 28, 2002, 1:57 PM
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Could it be that you have too much lactic acid built up in you muscles?
Try a change in your diet! I am not a nutritionalist, but I do know that diet can affect your performance.
Try bananas and consult someone who know.
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jammer
Jun 28, 2002, 2:33 PM
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Orange Juice will relieve lactic acid buildup. Drink some before heading out and see how it works.
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mikec
Jun 28, 2002, 6:08 PM
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I have always thought the advise given to me was the best I have heard. Getting pumped forearms comes partly from a lack of footwork (even on steep stuff).
I was told to stay on the rock two to three times as long as I normally would. After doing this a while you will find that using strength alone will not do it for you. Your body will figure out how hard to grip the holds. You will notice your technique improving and you will get in a lot better shape (endurance).
That is pretty much the advice I have recieved from the hardcore.
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djpuckle
Jul 2, 2002, 10:13 PM
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I'm not going to quote anyones personal opinions in this thread (and I agree that brute strength can not make up for poor technique), but I would like to say that strength training does transfer to longer endurance. It is a proven fact.
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socialclimber
Jul 5, 2002, 11:52 AM
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"Orange Juice will relieve lactic acid buildup."
Dealing with lactic acid is not as simple as just having the right diet. Every time your muscles are fully expanded you restrict blood flow through those muscles. Lactic acid builds when blood is unable to remove the acid from the muscle and that happens every time you grip a hold too hard or too long, Lactic acid begins to build after "death gripping" a hold for about 20 seconds. No one is immune to it but experienced climbers avoid the dredded "pump" for longer by employing a more efficient climbing technique, strength training and a careful diet. If that dosen't work, try my favorite method: blame your poor performance on having to sit up half the night with your 3 year old cause he saw a monster under the bed
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bigga
Jul 11, 2002, 7:29 PM
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I'm fairly new at this so check whatever I'm saying with someone who knows more what he's talking about than I do, but I had the same problem as you and heres how I dealt and am still dealling with it.
First the guys who are helping and teaching me are also telling me not to pull up with my arms and rather put my centre of gravity of whatever foot has a good hold and push up, and to keep my arms strait as much as possible. At first this felt really unatural and would have to contiously remind myself every few seconds but the more you do it the more it becomes second nature. What my one friend made me do is do indoor routes without ever looking up, only looking down.
As far as arm pumping the forarms goes, I still get that, but less and less. Besides for climbing, what can really help I think is hanging on to a really slippery serface. In my house I climb up the side of our staircase which is made out of smooth marble which gets slippering from my sweating hands real quickly. Beleave it or not when I started I could barely hang on for more than a few seconds let alone pull myself up to the next step...now I'm jumping two steps at a time. I think it really works...
Try it, see if you like
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