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snoopy138
May 10, 2005, 6:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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So I know many of the ratings at tahquitz have been "softened" in the current guidebook as compared to the old Wilts guides, but I'm looking at my dad's 1970 guide that has Red Rock Route at 5.1, and the modern guide that lists it at 5.7. Which is more accurate? Why the dramatic change?
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thegreytradster
Jul 4, 2005, 12:06 AM
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Nobody ever does that one. So, do it and report back :lol:
Willits established a whole list of climbs as grade standards and the foundation of the decimal system. About everything from 5.8 down has over the years been inflated. I don't think that for his "route standards" list this is justified.
There are a few rarely done routes that were mis-graded. The red rock route may be one of them. I've never done it and don't know anyone that has. I think it is only one of about four or so routes under 10a I haven't done. (one look at the initial chiminey and the south facing locale explains why) Keep in mind that chiminey routes traditionaly have low ratings for the amount of physical effort required.
For some others, The Swallow,(5.8 to 10a now) subtle changes have made new ratings appropriate.
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cardiffclimber
Jul 4, 2005, 2:10 AM
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Registered: May 29, 2005
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I can certainly follow that line of reason.
There's also earthquakes. Above the third belay on Jensen's Jaunt (right above the tree), there is a loose trashcan size rock. Be careful, the last earthquake apparently loosened things up a bit.
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ikefromla
Jul 4, 2005, 4:28 AM
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you can tell the difference between 5.1 and 5.7???
;)
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thegreytradster
Jul 4, 2005, 5:00 AM
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In reply to: you can tell the difference between 5.1 and 5.7??? ;)
If it's a chimney, probably not. :wink:
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