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pianomahnn
Sep 10, 2001, 7:31 AM
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Okay, who here trains their delicate tendons and ligaments to withstand these finger busters? And more importantly, how?
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bart
Sep 10, 2001, 9:51 AM
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I don't really train for climbing. I just go as often as I can and try some routes I have never done before. I think climbing is still the best way to train for climbing.
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pianomahnn
Sep 10, 2001, 3:26 PM
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I personally believe that is one reason why people will blow out their finger. They don't strengthen them for monos, and when they're cranking down on one, WHAMMO, it's not happy anymore.
But that's just my $0.02.
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krillen
Sep 10, 2001, 3:38 PM
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Try doing chinups, then chinups on crimpers, then remove one finger at a time. Moving up the difficulty once you become confortable with the level you are on.
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rck_climber
Sep 10, 2001, 3:44 PM
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I find a hangboard w/ small pockets and mono's does just the trick for me. Begin w/ two-finger pockets, just hanging or moving from one to another on the board then move to mono's and continue to move from pocket to pocket in a static hang. Great building work for the fingers. I find pull-ups too stressful for the tendons - but that's just me.
Mick
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dean585
Sep 26, 2001, 5:21 PM
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I have the metolious pure force hangboard and although some people swear by them and some people dont,I have found a remarkable increase in my finger strength without injury from using it. I also have a tread wall with the tiniest of holds which works well to if it is inclined past vertical forcing you to hold on with just pinches, instead of crimping when its vertical
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talons05
Sep 26, 2001, 5:33 PM
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Yes, the metolius pure force and simulator CNC boards are excellent. Once you have it on the wall, you can also put your harness on, and attach bungee cords to take some of the weight (as if you were supported by, say, your feet) and you can start out small on the finger workouts. The protection from injury provided by careful workout on these boards is well worth it...
AW
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metoliusmunchkin
Sep 29, 2001, 4:31 AM
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I don't know of too too many people who strengthen for mono pockets. I know that if I even attempted a mono (that is at the moment...I'm getting better!! ) I would fall so bad. Though, in many of the articles that I read, most of these really hard routes don't include mono's.
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rrrADAM
Sep 30, 2001, 5:29 PM
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You can also try technique instead of brute strength...
If the mono is shallow, try stacking and crowning. Place middle finger in to just before first knuckle, stack index and middle fingers over middle(shape of an upsidedown triangle), and crown thumb over that. Now yank away, instead of all your weight on one didget, it's spread out over four.
rrrADAM
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pianomahnn
Oct 1, 2001, 4:12 AM
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Stay away from my weenie.
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tyraidbp
Oct 2, 2001, 6:40 AM
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what everyone here needs to remember is that Pianomahnn is a little weird. Personally I try not to train mono's, but I do keep up with knowing whether or not I can pull them off. Typically I climb on stuff that is atleast 55 degrees of overhang, if not more, and most of the holds are all open hand. No mono's, crippers, just open hand stuff to make you strong. Certain people(Pianomahnn)like to just get burly and use raw strength. One day he will learn that he needs some technique to avoid injury. hahahah.
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rrrADAM
Oct 2, 2001, 7:39 AM
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Ummm, tyraidbp,
Get your protractor out bud, 55 degrees or more is considered a roof bud. Do you mean 15 degrees or more ???
rrrADAM
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tyraidbp
Oct 3, 2001, 4:07 AM
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rrradam, you are correct, I AM AN IDIOT!!!I was totally backwards on my geometery. Where I train starts at about 20 and goes up from there. I was talking from 90, if that makes sense. Do you train mono's by the way? I dont see a need for it, but if there is a chance to pull on one, Pianomahnn will find it I think. So, sorry again for my stupidity, and thanks for checking up on me. I need that from time to time.
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pianomahnn
Oct 3, 2001, 4:38 AM
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I don't use monos almost at all fool. I just like to keep my fingers used to them, just in case I need to crank down on one (if I EVER get outside damnit).
I don't feel there is anything wrong with strengening your fingers. It's just like anything else. The more you work at it, the safer, and better you'll be able to do it. Like those damn slopers that used to spank me wicked, I've gotten a lot better at them because I worked at them. Now, I'm not pulling off them as well as you, but I've noticed improvements.
I'm just trying to go all around training. Because, well, someone needs to knock that damn Sharma dude off the top of the mountain.
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marcsv
Oct 3, 2001, 5:04 AM
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just recently i realized that i was way to weak when it comes to pockets so i'm doing this new program focused on building stamina at the same time building grouped finger strength. the core of the work out are 4x4 sets of pull ups using grouped fingers all open crimped. this is going to take a while to build up
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