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climbfourteenk
Nov 8, 2005, 10:41 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2004
Posts: 8
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I am embarking on my first trip to Potrero during the week of Thanksgiving and was curious about the last pitch (15) on Yankee Clipper. It is listed on this site as .12a... I am a solid 5.10 leader (sport) and am not daunted by 5.11, but .12a is out of reach at the moment... can anyone comment on the possiblity of aiding the .12 moves on this route??? I know I can just stop after pitch 14, but standing on the summit would be ideal... Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Kris
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cristodelaroca
Nov 8, 2005, 10:54 PM
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Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 42
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the register is in the 13Th pitch, the last two are like bonus, you should climb time wave zero, it has also a 12 a but you can aid it and the summit is way cooler.
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mingleefu
Nov 8, 2005, 10:57 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 466
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As I understand it, that pitch rated 5.12 or 5.10+ AO. The "AO" means that you can yard on the bolts to get past any moves harder than 5.10+. Go Go Go!
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hazael
Nov 8, 2005, 11:01 PM
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Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 130
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A friend told me that the pitch could be done just by pulling your way up with the draws. I've never done it, I wanna send it all w/o doing that. If you carry a clip-stick I think you can summit the route easily.
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cdb1386
Nov 8, 2005, 11:19 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2001
Posts: 391
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The last pitch has a bolt ladder. You can pull on the draws through the hard parts or bring some pocket aiders (slings)
It's a great climb, Enjoy!
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spock
Nov 9, 2005, 12:50 AM
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Registered: Oct 20, 2003
Posts: 45
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i have done it and I'm sure anyone can pull on the draws, the bolt are close just when you need them. I also recommend you check time wave zero!!!!
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mdude
Nov 9, 2005, 2:12 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2003
Posts: 198
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How many people can give the same advice.
MD
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potreroed
Nov 18, 2005, 2:23 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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The last pitch of Yankee Clipper is either 12c if you go straight up, or 12a if you climb on the left side and reach over to make the clips. You can probably climb it if you hang and rest at each bolt. If nothing else you will really enjoy the spectacular belay at the top of pitch 14.
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