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What's the best type of strength?
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cal_gundert05


Nov 13, 2005, 2:30 AM
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What's the best type of strength?
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While reading other threads about which is better, Rock Rings or hangboard, someone said Rock Rings target bigger muscles (abs, back, biceps, etc) while hangboards target smaller muscles (hands, fingers, etc). Assuming this is true (which seems reasonable), which type of strength is better, big muscles or little?
*I know the importance of technique and would like to leave it out of the discussion.


bensnyder


Nov 13, 2005, 2:33 AM
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The forearm muscles are the most important in climbing. Besides the brain (which isn't really a muscle now is it, Wolfgang?). Our forearms are what seperate us from all those other pale scrawny white people.


cmacblue42


Nov 13, 2005, 3:23 AM
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i think fingers and forearms are even with being the most important muscles since you use those no matter what you are doing, whether they be slabs or roofs. forearms keeps us on those slopers and fingers on those tiny crimps. all your muscles are important though and it is a really good idea to train them all.


tnmountainman


Nov 13, 2005, 3:36 AM
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I would definitely say that forearms are the most important to work on.

I climbed last weekend and mine are still a little sore, I got a little too much table muscle hanging around for my scrony arms :lol:


outsideguyzak


Nov 13, 2005, 3:49 AM
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work out whichever muscles are your weakness. in horst's book, training for climbing, it has a very useful self assessment test. The test tells you which aspects of climbing you need to train, but it includes some mental and technical along with the muscular aspects.


sick_climba


Nov 13, 2005, 5:01 AM
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Little bro! As climbers our bodys make sure our muscles don't get to big for the reason that bigger muscles get pumped faster. Isntead of gaining mass climbers muscles get toned and perfected. They are smaller but much much much stronger than they look!


tomma


Nov 14, 2005, 1:25 PM
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mental strength, most definitely;-)


chossmonkey


Nov 14, 2005, 3:02 PM
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"Free your mind, and your ass will follow."


willywilderness


Nov 14, 2005, 4:13 PM
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Focus on your MENTAL muscles. Those are the most important in climbing!


Partner angry


Nov 14, 2005, 4:14 PM
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In reply to:
Little bro! As climbers our bodys make sure our muscles don't get to big for the reason that bigger muscles get pumped faster. Isntead of gaining mass climbers muscles get toned and perfected. They are smaller but much much much stronger than they look!

Elaborate please, with sources. :roll:

As a climber, I make sure that I have the endurance not to get pumped, that I am not so big it holds me back, and that my muscles are as strong for their size as I can get them. My body doesn't do this for me as you imply, I do this to my body.


dingus


Nov 14, 2005, 4:32 PM
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Character.

DMT


rockkid55


Nov 14, 2005, 4:38 PM
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I've found that doing penis pushups help my climbing ability. nothing gives you more confidence at the crag than a big piece of meat hanging between your legs.


sick_climba


Nov 18, 2005, 10:02 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Little bro! As climbers our bodys make sure our muscles don't get to big for the reason that bigger muscles get pumped faster. Isntead of gaining mass climbers muscles get toned and perfected. They are smaller but much much much stronger than they look!

Elaborate please, with sources. :roll:

As a climber, I make sure that I have the endurance not to get pumped, that I am not so big it holds me back, and that my muscles are as strong for their size as I can get them. My body doesn't do this for me as you imply, I do this to my body.
During my life science class we we studying the human body. We were watching a video of a guy climbing and for the particular study we were focusing on biceps. His arms we a decent size but not huge. My teacher explained upon inquiry that his muscles are though smaller in mass we very very very strong. He explained that the brain makes a subconscious decision too not let them gain in mass but rather become more toned so blood could flow through. And the same thing with the triceps and fore arms. Our body makes an unconscious decision to do this because our brain knows whats going on and what is best. Just like breathing or our heart pumping. Yes you can do things such as certain exercises to keep your muscles at a good healthy level and should but your brain also controls that as well.


fluxus


Nov 18, 2005, 10:41 PM
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Re: What's the best type of strength? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
someone said Rock Rings target bigger muscles (abs, back, biceps, etc) while hangboards target smaller muscles (hands, fingers, etc). Assuming this is true (which seems reasonable), which type of strength is better, big muscles or little?
*I know the importance of technique and would like to leave it out of the discussion.

I don't mean this with any hostility at all but the above question is loaded with assumptions about these types of workouts, and it also misses the point completely. Thinking in these terms really misunderstands what climbing asks of the body.

Besides You've been climbing for less than a year according to your profile, so supplemental training shouldn't even be on your radar at this point.


fluxus


Nov 18, 2005, 10:49 PM
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In reply to:
My teacher explained . . . that the brain makes a subconscious decision too not let them gain in mass but rather become more toned so blood could flow through. . . . Our body makes an unconscious decision to do this because our brain knows whats going on and what is best.

Its not a psychological issue, its a physiological issue. Muscles respond to training stimilus. What your conscious, unconscious, subconscious mind, Id, ego, or super ego "decide" plays no role.

If you paid for that class, you should ask for your money back.


deserteaglle


Nov 18, 2005, 11:29 PM
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In reply to:
"Free your mind, and your ass will follow."

Does that mean I can get your ass for free? :P Alright!!! I'm so used to paying for it.


josephgdawson


Nov 18, 2005, 11:31 PM
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A strong penile muscle is most important for cranking on granite.


azrockclimber


Nov 29, 2005, 12:15 PM
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c*ck pushups.... 1 is all you need!


dbrayack


Nov 29, 2005, 12:22 PM
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Man, too many people are saying forearms...definitely not...core muscles, really they're huge! Do a bunch of situps, and then go climb (the shadow prooves the sunshine)....you'll be worthless. Do a bunch of pull ups, go climb, you'll be weak, but still be able to use your feet and style your way through stuff.....ABS are such an important muscle.


daithi


Nov 29, 2005, 1:45 PM
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In reply to:
My teacher explained upon inquiry that his muscles are though smaller in mass we very very very strong. He explained that the brain makes a subconscious decision too not let them gain in mass but rather become more toned so blood could flow through. And the same thing with the triceps and fore arms. Our body makes an unconscious decision to do this because our brain knows whats going on and what is best.

:?: I think the teacher should get bonus points for the novelty of this explanation!


ein_berliner


Nov 29, 2005, 1:56 PM
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I'm definitely going to disagree with the whole statement about muscle size. From personal experience I can say that when I'm climbing I gain muscle size, especially in my back.

This is due to your physiological predisposition to muscle gains. I'm a mesomorph, so I gain muscle mass fairly easily. Ectomorphs (i.e. skinny dudes) don't gain muscle mass without enormous effort and diet considerations.

So...don't think that building muscle size is bad...it's not. Your body type has a lot to do with that. Main consideration is weight. Muscle density is a concern later on because you are hauling more weight. Concern yourself with weight/strength ratio, not size.

I personnally lift fairly heavily and have quite a bit of weight for my height (5'9" 175lbs) but it doesn't prohibit me from climbing yet. Maybe when I reach toward the .12's I'll worry about it....and if I ever find someone to climb with in Germany...

Your teacher's explanation seems slightly wrong too, or at least incomplete. What I think is being said is basically endurance built muscles don't get as pumped (no crap) and they do tend to be leaner. That is all.


wjca


Nov 29, 2005, 2:15 PM
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A strong pimp hand is good too.


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