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socalbolter
Nov 29, 2005, 3:15 AM
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Let me first congratulate Michael on this impressive feat. Having climbed that route before I can say without a doubt that it is one of the most spectacular trad lines I can imagine ever experiencing. To climb a line like that ropeless and onsight (as Michael did) is amazing.
The recent Rock and Ice article reporting on this ascent spoke of people doubting or flat out calling Michael's achievements fraudulent. I'm not sure what he has to do to quiet their voices, but hopefully these folks don't get him down too much and he's able to enjoy what I'm sure were intensely personal achievements.
Congrats to Michael. Like the rest of this site, and the climbing community in general, I'm curious to see what's next.
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estwing
Nov 29, 2005, 3:25 AM
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Wow, that is a super ascent! I read about it being Randy Leavitt's favorite line, how he and Tony Yaniro didn't know if it would go at first. I remember that the crux pitch was thin stemming protected with a double set of RP's.
That is some BOLD onsight solo action, super achievement, I don't doubt that he has done it if he claims its so.
Nice
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tim
Nov 29, 2005, 4:03 AM
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Hmmm, lessee, that makes for an interesting season's worth of goals...
- in-a-day, solo, Palisades traverse (~160 pitches of technical climbing)
- a grade IV, 5.12b onsight on a megaclassic hard crack route
- a bunch of shit in Greenland and elsewhere we ain't heard about yet
People rarely believe what you say, but they will always believe what you do.
Go Mike. Last season was a bunch of parlor stunts; this shit is for real.
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vegastradguy
Nov 29, 2005, 4:13 AM
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interestingly, the article states that he soloed the lower pitches several times (up and down) on reconaissance before committing to the complete ascent. i'm not sure i'd classify it as a redpoint, but an onsight seems off to me....
that said, its still a hell of an accomplishment...more than the rest of us can do, thats for sure.
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joshy8200
Nov 29, 2005, 4:25 AM
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In reply to: interestingly, the article states that he soloed the lower pitches several times (up and down) on reconaissance before committing to the complete ascent. i'm not sure i'd classify it as a redpoint, but an onsight seems off to me.... that said, its still a hell of an accomplishment...more than the rest of us can do, thats for sure.
As far as onsight goes...I would strongly hold that once you leave the deck you cannot touch the deck again until you have completed the route. That said one could up and downclimb all over the place to 'preview' a move or section, as long as you never return to the deck. Downclimbing to a ledge...I still think would NOT negate the onsight.
Even if he up and downclimbed all day...still sounds like a legitimate onsight to me.
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curt
Nov 29, 2005, 4:28 AM
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In reply to: interestingly, the article states that he soloed the lower pitches several times (up and down) on reconaissance before committing to the complete ascent. i'm not sure i'd classify it as a redpoint, but an onsight seems off to me....
Redpoint, onsight, etc only apply to sport climbing. Free soloing something like Romantic Warrior and not winding-up dead, having never climbed it before, is pretty out there in my book.
Curt
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vegastradguy
Nov 29, 2005, 4:31 AM
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In reply to: As far as onsight goes...I would strongly hold that once you leave the deck you cannot touch the deck again until you have completed the route. That said one could up and downclimb all over the place to 'preview' a move or section, as long as you never return to the deck. Downclimbing to a ledge...I still think would NOT negate the onsight. Even if he up and downclimbed all day...still sounds like a legitimate onsight to me.
except for the part that he did those pitches some time before he did the actual route- more than a few days, if memory serves. someone who actually has the issue should post the time frame, but he definitely came down and walked away from the route more than once.
i should also be clear that i'm not a real stickler for the term onsight and the sort, but if you're gonna have yourself a cover article in the climbing mags....my personal opinion is that if you're going to call it an onsight on the cover, it should be just that- an onsight- even the mag points out that the upper pitches were onsight, but the route as a whole was not. (i'm doubtful that reardon would really give a shit about anyone calling it an onsight or a redpoint or whatever)
regardless, reardon is something else to watch climb, and i'm not belittling the ascent or him- more the magazine really. i'm sure for reardon, it was just about having a good day on the rock- and he did it on his terms, as it should be when you're without a rope.
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vegastradguy
Nov 29, 2005, 4:34 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: interestingly, the article states that he soloed the lower pitches several times (up and down) on reconaissance before committing to the complete ascent. i'm not sure i'd classify it as a redpoint, but an onsight seems off to me.... Redpoint, onsight, etc only apply to sport climbing. Free soloing something like Romantic Warrior and not winding-up dead, having never climbed it before, is pretty out there in my book. Curt
i agree. from the pictures and the description, it sounds like its way out there.
i'm just bitching about the press on it, i guess.
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joshy8200
Nov 29, 2005, 4:57 AM
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In reply to: regardless, reardon is something else to watch climb, and i'm not belittling the ascent or him- more the magazine really. i'm sure for reardon, it was just about having a good day on the rock- and he did it on his terms, as it should be when you're without a rope.
The footage of him in Return-2-Sender is something else to watch...when I first saw it I thought him to be rather insane. But...after a couple of times through, I agree he is just all about getting out there and doing what he's there to do.
And agreed...not an 'onsight' of the route. Maybe still an onsight of the crux pitch...very impressive regardless! And it does suck when coverage of such an amazing feat is misleading or misinterpreted. And like you I wouldn't want to malign anyones' accomplishments, just like to hear EXACTLY what REALLY happened.
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clausti
Nov 29, 2005, 5:06 AM
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i dont know shit about this route he recently solo'd. BUT...
i do know that he was cursing at himself and questioning himself on camera during a solo for "return2sender" -- something i would *never* want to be doing, thoughts i'd never want going through my mind on a solo.
why solo for a camera? why solo for a press release? why would he do *anything* about those naysaying him? its none of anyone's business if he solod something, in my opinion. unless he does it for a *camera,* in which case i think there are some motivations that are off kilter.
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asuclimber
Nov 29, 2005, 5:09 AM
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Not a stickler for strict onsight, redpoint, greenpoint,blah,blah,blah definitions either; but to me redpoint implies that you have fallen off the route at least once while working it. I think the most signifigant point here is he did it without ever working/rehearsing with a rope.
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rmiller
Nov 29, 2005, 5:35 AM
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There are only 2 ways that bitch did a solo ascent of Romantic Warrior:
1) He took a few quarters out of his change purse to lower his weight, or
2) Pig butt told him he was going to . . . if he backed off!
Oh wait, pig butt already had his way years ago. Must of been the change purse. You know what bitch, if you roll your shoulders in a little your pussy might get tighter!
"keepin the slander, even from a distance"
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maman
Nov 29, 2005, 7:42 AM
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Ironic that the biggest liar in recent cragging history, louie anderson, (remember louie's route "Refiner's Fire" the hoaxed 5.14c that Randy Leavitt and Boone speed called bullshitt on?) has now decided to champion another doubted climber. Difference is that MR looks like he has probably done what he's said.
I feel dirty, but louie, everyone who remember's that fiasco knows you were lying! You can't climb .14c or .13d for that matter, stop the lies!
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maman
Nov 29, 2005, 7:44 AM
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Ironic that the biggest liar in recent cragging history, louie anderson, (remember louie's route "Refiner's Fire" the hoaxed 5.14c that Randy Leavitt and Boone speed called bullshitt on?) has now decided to champion another doubted climber. Difference is that MR looks like he has probably done what he's said.
I feel dirty, but louie, everyone who remembers that fiasco knows you were lying! You can't climb .14c or .13d for that matter, stop the lies!
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tim
Nov 29, 2005, 5:06 PM
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nb. any Vagisil in the summit registers? (asking Eric Roed)
I'd like not to think that Mike and Matt just made up any of this shit... haven't seen the pictures but I've seen Mike solo some pretty hard stuff and it's damn impressive. He's many things, but I've never seen evidence that he's a liar. It looks like the R&I pics will suffice for Romantic Warrior, but someone would have to have a pretty mighty telephoto to do the same for the Palisades Traverse.
Mike did mention that he didn't sign any of the registers and just left trinkets.
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areyoumydude
Nov 29, 2005, 6:33 PM
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In reply to: Ironic that the biggest liar in recent cragging history, louie anderson, (remember louie's route "Refiner's Fire" the hoaxed 5.14c that Randy Leavitt and Boone speed called s--- on?) has now decided to champion another doubted climber. Difference is that MR looks like he has probably done what he's said. I feel dirty, but louie, everyone who remembers that fiasco knows you were lying! You can't climb .14c or .13d for that matter, stop the lies!
Go climb back in your hole.
Congrats to Micheal. That's bad ass.
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soulsurfer
Nov 29, 2005, 7:05 PM
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Maman,
Not that Louie needs defending but at least post your real name for a little integrity on your part.
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jdouble
Nov 29, 2005, 7:09 PM
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WOW Mike.
Let's all try to keep it positive.
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j_ung
Nov 29, 2005, 7:15 PM
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Damn! that is some sick shit. Go Michael. And don't mind the assholes.
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billcoe_
Nov 29, 2005, 7:46 PM
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Larry, you must know Louie Anderson?
Back on topic.
I still remembering waking up one cold Joshua Tree morning @ 1980 or so to see John Bachar soloing something I had been working up the courage to lead. Then he downclimbed a 5.8 I was planning on doing that day.
I watched this from my sleeping bag, waiting for the sun to hit and get the COLD-FRIGGAN ASSED FROST off my sleeping bag. Wide mouthed and astounded: I was I almost shit myself right there in the bag.
Watching JB solo that day and a bunch of other times was amazing. Beyond amazing in fact. Although I never shit on myself that day or any other watching him climb, I almost pissed my pants watching a few of those laps he did.
If Bacher says Mreardons doing this, it's true 100 percent in my book: I say....crap, I don't think I can even think this big.
Congrats Mike, and ignore the spineless spinmaster-naysayers who can only bark and pee on themselves in shock at such feats.
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ksolem
Nov 29, 2005, 8:14 PM
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When, one day out in the Needles Mike told me he had solo'd Davy Jone's Locker the day before I stood there stunned, trying to conceal the fact that I was going weak in the knees trying to wrap my brain around the idea of doing such a thing. Now The Warrior. Truly amazing feats. Talk about raising the bar.
On a side note, I have to correct Curts assertion earlier that repointing and onsighting apply only to sport climbing. Both terms apply equally to trad climbing, where in fact the redpoint requires placing the gear not just clipping it (sorry Curt, it's a dirty job but someone had to do it...:-))
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phillygoat
Nov 29, 2005, 8:24 PM
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In reply to: On a side note, I have to correct Curts assertion earlier that repointing and onsighting apply only to sport climbing. Both terms apply equally to trad climbing, where in fact the redpoint requires placing the gear not just clipping it (sorry Curt, it's a dirty job but someone had to do it...Smile)
You might want to check his tie-in knot while you're at it... :D
Kudos, Michael.
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stanley01
Nov 29, 2005, 8:54 PM
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Don't want to rain on anyone's parade, and I usually give credit to what people say, especially with high end climbing endeavors where inspiration is deep within. However, for the record (and to preserve the proudness of what people are REALLY out there doing) I gotta give Michael Reardon a little shit. Last summer I caught him lying about soloing Davy Jones, don't know if he really did it or not, but definitely not the day he said he did. The facts kept changing the more I listened to him talk. I doubt anyone cares, I certainly don't much, once its written up in the mags its real, right? I'm sure he has done some proud solos but that little lie he told me and the undeniably strong feeling of bullshit I had while talking to him make me question some of the other things he's claiming. Sad but TRUE! Wish I could beleive it all, makes for some good cyber-wanking at least. I don't know the guy aside from those few days in the needles, so if I am totally wrong - sorry. Just trying to keep it all straight and not take away from the guys and gals out there REALLY pushing limits.
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j_ung
Nov 29, 2005, 8:59 PM
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Lets see... anonymous... one post... to discredit somebody else. Cyber wanking, indeed.
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artm
Nov 29, 2005, 9:04 PM
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I said it on supertopo and I'll say it again here.
In reply to: Y'know Mike's gonna do what Mike wants to in spite of any slander or bullshit anyone says about him. I will say that I have seen him solo some hard ass sh#t that I'm incapable of doing with a rack, rope and set of aiders. |
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