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jt512
Nov 19, 2005, 4:20 AM
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In reply to: Can´t climb... Here´s my usual afternoon workout (got better things to do at night) *2 sets 250 (full) situps, non-stop, legs bent 45°, feet flat, arms crossed, 5 minute rest between sets; *5 minute rest; *2 sets of 25 individual leg raises, lying down on back, knees extended; *1 set of 20 individual leg raises, knees extended, raise 90°, bend knee 90°, extend knee, lower leg; *5 sets of 100 (full) pushups; *full body stretching; *1 set 25 reps of shoulder exercises: 1) arms out to sides, small circles back and forth; 2) arms out front, raise one and lower the other simultaneously; 3) arms out front, point thumbs up, twist shoulders -> thumbs down, twist -> thumbs up...; * if I´m up to it: grab 2 chairs, place ´em a body length apart, lie down between them supporting weight on tips of toes and forearms, hold until you can´t anymore; edit: what are 4x4´s??
A training exercise that, in contrast to your workout, might actually benefit your climbing. Basically, a 4x4 is 4 boulder problems done in sequence with no rest between problems. After completing the 4 problems, you rest, and then repeat the set. You do 4 sets in total. The art is in picking the correct difficulty of the problems and the length of the rests. If you can just barely pull the last move of the last problem of the last set, and then throw up, you've got it just right.
Jay
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tyson16v
Nov 19, 2005, 4:23 AM
Post #27 of 71
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In reply to: edit: what are 4x4´s??
some people do them differently. but the way that ive done them and teach them is like this.
*4 laps per problem on 4 different problems = 4x4s
*1 set = 4 laps on one problem (or problems)
*pick a boulder problem (or problems) that is hard for you but you will be able to do it.
*do that problem once, jump off and do it again with out any rest (or minimal rest like 15 seconds).
*repeat this 4 times
*rest 2-4 minutes
*repeat process usually on a different problem.
*then repeat process again.
*then repeat process again.
*4 laps per problem on 4 different problems = 4x4s
you can mix it up and do 4 laps on 4 different problems for 1 set.
ie. 1 set = 1 V3, 1 V2, 1 V4, and 1 V3.
like i said, ive seen it done different, but this is how i know them.
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 19, 2005, 4:57 AM
Post #28 of 71
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Thanks tyson16v. I´ve done ´em, so I thought that was what they were, but didn´t know they were called 4x4´s.
jay, read the OP´s 4th line, man. The legs exercises are doctor ordered for my knees, the pushups are half what you have to get done on weekend military service anyway so I might as well get used to them, the situps are for fun and a nice 6 pack, and the chair thing is an obvious party trick. Never said it had anything to do with my training regime. :roll:
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fluxus
Nov 19, 2005, 5:25 AM
Post #29 of 71
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Since I take credit for inventing 4X4s 12 years ago* here is how we always do them and how they were dissimanated through out the intermountain west.
4X4 = 4 sets of 4 problems for a total of 16 problems
each set consists of climbing all four problems back to back with no rest between each problem. The set should take 2:30 - 3:30. the rest time is equal to or less than the set time, depending upon how the climber feels.
The problems are selected in advance from problems the climber already knows.
The climber will get pumped fast and spend most of the workout just below failure. Only reaching failure on the last few moves of the 3rd and 4th set.
As soon as we started doing these in 1992 we knew we had something special on our hands, it was really the perfect training for the hardest routes in American fork because those routes were really just bouldering with a rope on. It was really the best way to prepair for routes like Dead Souls and all the other well known AF test peices.
We have a video clip on the DVD that goes through the details of how to do a 4X4 this way.
(*granted, just because I came up with 4X4s does not mean its impossible that other people came up with similar ideas, however the workout I developed in SLC was quickly spread to places like boulder, LA, and others by elite climbers living in or passing through salt lake. And it would be somewhat unusual for different people working independent of one another to give different workouts the same name. )
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shear
Nov 20, 2005, 1:04 PM
Post #30 of 71
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when i said, "3 sets 4x4's V5, V6, V7, i didnt mean, " 3 V5's, and so on" i meant one V5, V6, and V7." so 12 sets total.
sorry if i threw everyone for a loop...lol.
but regarding my lack luster track record on routes...i get some kind of mental block when im route climbing. cant explain it, but my hardest sends bouldering are leaps and bounds above my hardest sends on rope. i really should be able to send hard 5.12 easy 5.13...yet, my hardest route to date is .12a... :?
oh well though...its getting too cold up here in western mass for routes anyhow...all the focus is turning to the smaller rocks now. which im perfectly ok with.
just had 2 great days outside at great barrington and farley...im resting today and gonna go for a trail run and do some core work and body weight exercises.
time to turn my focus on getting ready for Hueco in January... 8^)
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fluxus
Nov 21, 2005, 6:39 PM
Post #31 of 71
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So now that a number of people have posted the workouts that we did last week we should also post how successful the workouts were and what we plan to do this week.
My workout was not as successful as I would have liked, I started off bouldering and felt great, moves I couldn't touch previously felt easy. BUT it was obvious that the connective tissue in my fingers was not going to stand for another night of high intensity crimping . . . so I lowered the intensity quite a bit. I wanted to do C.I.R. on routes but the gym I train at has almost no routes at a good level for me. I ended up doing 5 X 12a 5 X 5.11s and 2 ARCs the first on routes the second traversing.
Tonight, after 4 days rest I am going to boulder: 7 X V6 and 5 X V5 followed by a 30 min ARC.
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tyson16v
Nov 21, 2005, 7:10 PM
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since i have been out for a while, any workout feels successful as long as i can get through it with out pain. so all last weeks workouts were successful.
here is what is going to happen tonight in a 3 hr period. and of course this all depends on how my shoulder feels.
first is a power circuit that i got out of rock and ice or something about 4 years ago. first i will arc 4 20 min. and stretch.
POWER CIRCUIT
•WARM UP: THREE EASY PROBLEMS. TAKE TWO TO THREE MINUTES OF REST BETWEEN BURNS.
•FIVE MINUTES OF REST AFTER FINAL WARM UP PROBLEM. IF NEED BE WARM UP LONGER, BUT NOT TO LONG.
•MAIN SET: ATTEMPT AN EIGHT TO TEN MOVE PROBLEM AT (OR SLIGHTLY ABOVE ) YOUR LIMIT. WORK THE PROJECT FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES, ENOUGH TIME FOR SIX TO NINE GOOD BURNS. REST FOUR TO FIVE MINUTES BETWEEN ATTEMPTS.
•15 MINUTES OF REST BEFORE CONTINUING.
•SET TWO: THREE REPETITIONS ON THREE DIFERENT PROBLEMS, ABOUT TWO V-GRADES BELOW YOUR PROJECT LEVEL. (THIS SHOULD BE CLOSE TO YOUR BEST ON-SIGHT LEVEL.) TAKE TWO MINUTES OF REST BETWEEN REPETITIONS AND FIVE MINUTES BETWEEN PROBLEMS. THIS PHASE SHOULD TAKE ABOUT AN HOUR.
•TAKE 10 MINUTES OF REST
•SET THREE: ONE REPETITION EACH ON Three EASIER PROBLEMS, ONE TO TWO V-GRADES BELOW THE LAST SET. TAKE FIVE MINUTES REST BETWEEN PROBLEMS.
THIS SHOULD TAKE ABOUT TWO AND A HALF HOURS
then i will incorporate a few sets of weighted pull ups with no more than 35lbs. 5 sets of 5. i have many more of the weighted pull workouts but this will help get me back into shape for some better ones.
hopefully i will be SENDY.
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knightstreet
Nov 22, 2005, 6:47 PM
Post #33 of 71
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In reply to: hopefully i will be SENDY.
You'll be tired I'll wager.
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jt512
Nov 22, 2005, 8:15 PM
Post #34 of 71
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Similar to last Tuesday's workout:
1 20-min ARC, any flagging on each move, hopefully moving more smoothly than last week.
1 20-min ARC, same-side flagging on each move, hopefully more smoothly than last week.
Stamina Exercise 1: 12 routes: 4 @ 10c, 4 @ 10d, 4 @ 11a.
Stamina Exercise 2: Attempt to tolerate the techno music at the gym for the duration of Stamina Exercise 1.
Time-permitting, 10 minutes of easy traversing.
Jay
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tyson16v
Nov 22, 2005, 10:03 PM
Post #35 of 71
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In reply to: You'll be tired I'll wager.
i really cant describe how happy i am today.
In reply to: Stamina Exercise 2: Attempt to tolerate the techno music at the gym for the duration of Stamina Exercise 1.
i have that same issue.
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gmreeves
Nov 22, 2005, 10:18 PM
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after about a year off of climbing, i was able to finally get back in to the swing of things. i started doing the HIT workout from Eric Horst and after three weeks, I was adding 20 pounds to the JUGS, 15 pounds to the Crimps, and 5 pounds to the Pockets and doing all of my reps. The bad part is, the tendons in my writs hurt so bad now and are so flared up from the intense workouts and climbing that I can't bend my wrist enough to do a pushup. i'm out for a couple weeks or until the tendonitis goes down. any suggestions?
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jt512
Nov 22, 2005, 10:25 PM
Post #37 of 71
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In reply to: after about a year off of climbing, i was able to finally get back in to the swing of things. i started doing the HIT workout from Eric Horst and after three weeks, I was adding 20 pounds to the JUGS, 15 pounds to the Crimps, and 5 pounds to the Pockets and doing all of my reps. The bad part is, the tendons in my writs hurt so bad now and are so flared up from the intense workouts and climbing that I can't bend my wrist enough to do a pushup. i'm out for a couple weeks or until the tendonitis goes down. any suggestions?
Stop doing HIT workouts.
(Or is this another of them darned trick questions?)
Jay
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lordshockspeare
Nov 22, 2005, 11:05 PM
Post #38 of 71
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well living in place where there is good rock .... but it rains just about everyday, I´ve been forced to turn my training indoors and the closesest gym is a couple hours away :cry:
Today I swam laps for an hour.
yesterday was my pullup workout.
warm up/ yoga stuff: 30 min
2 sets of max strict pullups (no jerking, etc) which was 18 and 19.
set of pushups 30
sets of situps w/ 20kg -30
now pulups with weight.
5 with 20extra kg
3 with 25 kg
1 with 32kg
I probably could go heavier but was getting tired.
to work my fingers a bit more I´ve been doing pullups isolating fingers.
first set w/ 20 kg index finger 3 reps
middle finger 3 reps
last two fingers 3 reps
then repeat finger sequence. (I get some really wierd looks and questions when I do these at the weight room! )
I then finish up with a more max number of pullups then a few more pushups and situps.
I have no idea how benificial these will be to help keep the fingers strong, any inputs? I´ll find out soon, as I head to southern Spain in a two weeks :P
I forgot to throw in there I use the Captain of crush gripper when I´m bored between sets. I´ve only used the number 2. I can now close it with my right but not my left :?
As you can see my routine is sort of contrived.
God I miss actual climbing :(
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tyson16v
Nov 29, 2005, 7:06 AM
Post #39 of 71
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here is what i did tonight, the warm up differed a bit but it was good.
*warm up with a couple of boulder problems and a 20 min arc
*stretching
*jack and jills (start at V0 and climb each grade up till you fall, in my case this was V7, then on the next set it was V8, rest between problems as you would like) do this for about 45 minutes to and hour.
*rambos (3 laps on the same route). i did 3 sets
*20 min arc for warm down
*abs/core
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curt
Nov 29, 2005, 7:17 AM
Post #40 of 71
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I usually warm-up with a Fosters oil can or other similarly appropriate approach beer. Then, I progress to a good Hefeweizen or two while actually bouldering and finish with nice 12-year Macallan, as a cool down. I know, you think I'm kidding :D
Curt
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grovehunter
Nov 29, 2005, 7:20 AM
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Stretching, a lot of it lately morning, noon and night. Jogging in the sand for 30 mins. I get plenty of weight training everyday building heavy glass shower enclosures. Meditate morning and eve to relieve stress, Have a nervous breakdown near lunch everyday so I'll have a reson to meditate before and after. :D
Peace,
GH
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shear
Nov 30, 2005, 1:06 PM
Post #42 of 71
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heres what i did yesterday:
morning: 30 min running, lots of stretching (basically ran to work soreness out of hamstrings
evening: warm up 10 min traversing and easy problems V0-V4
various dynos for another 10 minutes
stretching and resting for 10 minutes
4x4s V4, V5, V6 and one set of 8 on a V4 with no rest between each set
projecting for 30 minutes, working the hardest problems i can.
hangboard workout: repeaters on pockets and slopers
stretch, abs
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fluxus
Dec 1, 2005, 3:45 AM
Post #43 of 71
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In reply to: I usually warm-up with a Fosters oil can or other similarly appropriate approach beer. Then, I progress to a good Hefeweizen or two while actually bouldering and finish with nice 12-year Macallan, as a cool down. I know, you think I'm kidding :D Curt
Curt, you'll never get into shape that way! Sure, the Fosters is filling but its got no body. Same for the Hefeweizen, its not going to do a thing for a guy that boulders at your level! I know you didn't ask but come on man, oatmeal stout is clearly what you should be working with.
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cchas
Dec 1, 2005, 3:00 PM
Post #44 of 71
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Personally, I think mysttical_climbers workout rocks.... but alais....
today noon: 7 mile waddle (around 6min pace) and then pullups (4 sets 5x50lbs weights 1 set 100lbs weights and then some frenchies)
pm: a bit off falling off of routes- unfortnately its only plastic tonight: (usually lead up on route lower off, tie in the other end and then follow up the route)... between .11c and .12d (but its plastic so what in the h$ll does that mean)
And I'm a pompous ass so I'll finish up the night with 2 glasses of red wine and something for dinner (another bottle of red wine? or maybe something chickenish).
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paganmonkeyboy
Dec 1, 2005, 3:10 PM
Post #45 of 71
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mad b's
then 20 minutes on the seated bike with a low-med resistance to loosen up the legs and get the blood flowing
followed by stretching, concentrating on a pulled hamstring/hyperextended knee I'm coaxing back into the game...
then boulder til the gym closes or i get bored with it
then more b's, maybe some ab work, a couple glasses of wine, and an icepack for the elbow I drove into the wall last night with all my weight behind it...
someday the man won't keep us down...someday the man will keep us on belay...
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daithi
Dec 1, 2005, 4:03 PM
Post #46 of 71
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In reply to: And I'm a pompous ass so I'll finish up the night with 2 glasses of red wine and something for dinner (another bottle of red wine? or maybe something chickenish).
If you were half as pompous as you made yourself out to be, you would never suggest having chicken with a bottle of red wine! Philistine :)
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cchas
Dec 1, 2005, 5:09 PM
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Good point, just have a couple mediocre bottles of white (a gwertze, a sauvingon blanc) but mostly have Cabs, a few zins, ...
Musdt change my dinner plans
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tyson16v
Dec 13, 2005, 8:06 AM
Post #48 of 71
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this one pretty much sucked. it was no fun, and i dont know if it did anything for me or my clients. they got tired as shit but......
*warm up proper with 20 min arc and boulder problems
*lead climbing for 45 minutes
*5 min on 5 min off X3 in bouldering room (ie steeper walls)
*4x4 with lock off drill (hold each move locked off for 3 seconds)
*core stations X4 (six varios stations)
word
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rockprodigy
Dec 14, 2005, 4:06 AM
Post #49 of 71
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I just saw this thread...I wish I had seen it when it started, I'm already halfway through my training cycle!
OK, so to get everyone up to speed...I started with a 5 week (approx) Hypertrophy phase, which consisted of a hangboard workout every 3rd day.
Now I'm in the "Max Recruitment" phase...which means campusing. Tonight's workout:
Warm up: 40 minutes of bouldering, starting very easy for about 20 min, then the last 20 min with trying increasingly harder problems, up to V4 or so.
On the Campus Board: I start out with two "warmup" sets. WU Set 1: easy ladder (just going up one rung at a time) on the biggest rungs (1.5 pad). WU Set 2, ladder on the smallest rung (3/4 pad).
Now for the workout:
I did 6-9 sets where each "set" is just a trip up (sometimes down) the campus board. I do all kinds of different things...I usually start with a long ladder, like going from rung 1 to 5 to 9 to 13, etc. I take "full" rest between each set...usually 5 min or so.
I quit when I feel like I've lost the "pop" from my muscles. This ain't no endurance workout!
To cool down, I did 20 min of easy bouldering.
This morning I lifted weights:
Each exercise is 3 sets of 15 reps. I did tricep extensions, leg lifts, reverse wrist curls, chest press, shoulder lifts, and some ab stuff.
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welikoa
Dec 14, 2005, 4:17 AM
Post #50 of 71
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1o minute warm up , rotate writs with dumbells and pushups and stretching.
8 sets of 15 pullups with 15lb pack on using the big slopers on fingerboard
1 minute rest interval.
10 minute recovery
4 sets of frenchies (because they suck) do a pullup to 90 dg and hold for 10 sec, lower and go up to 75 for 10 second, then 45 dg and thats a set. 2 minute recovery in between
10 minute recovery
crimps. Crimp a hold for 5 to 10 seconds, rest for 5 seconds and repeat a total of 6 times (1 set) then move on to harder hold and do a total of 12 sets using as many hold variations as you want.
then do pullups until complete failure and im done.
I unfortunately work too much and cant make it to the gym, so thankyou fingerboard creators!
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