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gblauer
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Dec 14, 2005, 12:51 AM
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My pinky finger on my left hand really hurts...its is a sharp pain on the top side (not palm side) of my first knuckle (the one closest to my palm)
I went to the hand doctor and he says nothing is wrong!
It's swollen, black and blue looking and I can't bend it without a sharp pain.
I am splinting it during the day. I am climbing on it 2-3x per week, jugs only, limited overhangs. Interestingly it does not hurt during the act of climbing...it hurts a lot afterwards. I ice it, take ibuprofen then put it back in the splint.
Any ideas?
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chanceboarder
Dec 14, 2005, 1:00 AM
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rest until it heals completely.
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gblauer
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Dec 14, 2005, 1:22 AM
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I can't. Addicted.
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areuinclimber
Dec 14, 2005, 1:34 AM
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should have been careful with the shocker.
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jred
Dec 14, 2005, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: should have been careful with the shocker. |
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tnmountainman
Dec 14, 2005, 1:55 AM
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gblauer wrote:
Any ideas?
rest until it heals completely.
In reply to: I can't. Addicted.
Then stop crying about the pain :( if you won't let it heal properly.
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auraseer
Dec 14, 2005, 10:39 PM
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In reply to: I went to the hand doctor and he says nothing is wrong! It's swollen, black and blue looking and I can't bend it without a sharp pain.
(If he really said something like "nothing serious is wrong", that would make a lot more sense. That would mean there are no broken bones or severe damage, so it should heal by itself if you would just let it rest long enough.)
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t-dog
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Dec 14, 2005, 10:51 PM
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In reply to: rest until it heals completely.
In reply to: I can't. Addicted.
I think you mean't to say:
In reply to: I can't. I'm retarded.
What the hell is wrong with you? How hard is it to understand that if you get injured, then you have to rest (i.e not climb 2-3 times a week)??? If you don't rest properly, it'll take much longer to heal, and even then, it won't be as healed as it could have been.
Do yourself a favor and stop climbing until you can bend your finger without pain and it doesn't look like a german blood-sausage.
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slavetogravity
Dec 14, 2005, 11:29 PM
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I’ve suffered from a similar climbing related injury but it was caused by (thumbs up) finger and hand jamming. If this is the case then don't aggravate your injury and avoid crack climbing. Beyond that, take the advice that’s been suggest already and just take it easy. Don’t climb. Go for a jog instead.
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gblauer
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Dec 15, 2005, 3:03 PM
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Ok, let's go throught the "rest until it heals scenario"
How many of you actually followed your own advice?
How much ability/strength did you lose?
How long did it take to get back to your former glory?
(I have been training really hard, really pushing myself, it's killing me to let it go. [I did skip some competitions because of my finger])
Climbing one handed would be considered resting too right?
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t-dog
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Dec 15, 2005, 3:39 PM
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In reply to: Ok, let's go throught the "rest until it heals scenario" How many of you actually followed your own advice? How much ability/strength did you lose? How long did it take to get back to your former glory? (I have been training really hard, really pushing myself, it's killing me to let it go. [I did skip some competitions because of my finger]) Climbing one handed would be considered resting too right?
I do, and have. Stopped for about a month to let a shoulder heal, about another month for a muscle tear. Probably lost about 1 or 2 V-grades, but that came back in 2-3 weeks. For the getting back up to speed, it really helps you previously you were strong at on-sighting (that rewards technique), as opposed to brute strength sends.
Climbing one handed would be considered resting as well, but you have to be *super* careful as the temptation to use your other hand is so damn strong.
My suggestion since you seem to be training super-hard would be to keep training in a way that doesn't harm your hand. For example, you could do crazy ab-workouts for those 3-4 weeks off and get rock-solid abs. Or if your endurance sucks, you could do a bunch of running and build that up.
Don't forget to have fun.
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