|
mack_north
Feb 8, 2005, 10:52 PM
Post #26 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2005
Posts: 74
|
Trey,
Those hangers will work just fine. My cousin Lou used them for several routes he put up in Sweetgrass Canyon. I heard a rumor that some kid broke one and took a 30 footer that left him paralyzed but he ended up with a free van that he can drive by blowing air through his nose, so it all worked out.
Mack
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Feb 9, 2005, 7:59 PM
Post #27 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
Trey, I have been climbing for 3 years, worked with a High Angle SAR team for 2, and wouldn't go near a drill.
I know a lot of SAR guys that would slam in 3 1/2"ers if it'd make a climb "easier" for them.
The rock is a limited resource. It took a long time to form, and we're not gonna see much more new rock anytime soon. No-one wants to see it get destroyed.
You profile said 1.5 years, and it was created a year ago, tops? If you've got a friend that's been bolting for years, wouldn't he know what hangers were decent?
When concerns were raised, a simple, "yeah, but my buddy has been developing routes for years and is working with me on it" would have been just fine.
Climbing is an experience driven sport, cause it's easy to f* up and hurt yourself.
Most of the members aren't "holier than thou", well some are; but we are concerned for safety, access issues, and preserving the rock.
Cheers,
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
sed
Feb 9, 2005, 8:28 PM
Post #28 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 356
|
lemon boy, i'm not the all-wise guru that many propose to be but in my experience and the information i've gathered, if you are shearing or breaking bolts, whether steel or stainless, you are probably tightening too hard. sleeve anchor bolts don't require superhuman torque to be correct and in fact when they are tightened that tight they may be on the verge of breaking. maybe you need a kryptonite amulet around your neck to cut down on that brute force but with all due respect you really shouldn't be breaking bolts when you tighten them.
thanks for reading my drivel.
S
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Feb 9, 2005, 8:56 PM
Post #29 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: Trey, I have been climbing for 3 years, worked with a High Angle SAR team for 2, and wouldn't go near a drill.
This means nothing. You can't project your experience and values onto others. Your situation and treys are completely different.
And .95 is a great price for a SS hanger. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
madrock
Dec 12, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #30 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 255
|
How did :Has anyones used these hangers ?" turn into. "I did this, I'm a rescue guy, ethics stuff" Not everything posted is about you or how cool you are.
I have all three hangers in my hand. The Metolius hanger, the Pagan hanger and the Petzle hangers are all the same thinckness and all seem pretty good (no sharp edges). The Pagan and the Metolius are the same weight (approx 53 grms and the Petzl weighs less but is smaller. The metolius has no strength stamped on it at all, the Petzl is stamped 25kN and the Pagan is stamped 24kN. Hope the facts are helpful.
One other note. I have seen many brands of hangers test up to 40kN no problems, most companies just do not stamp and rate them that high.
Update and FYI in case you did not already read it earlier. I work in the climbing industy. I buy from, sell to, own or have connections to almost every climbing comapany in the world. Clear enough for everyone. I am bias and you cannot trust me.
Joe
|
|
|
|
|
aryemanhattanforme
Dec 20, 2005, 3:11 AM
Post #31 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 29
|
This is an insane thread, which might very well be redundant.
First, jimdavis says, in a Feb 9, 2005 post, that he's been climbing for 3 years. Holy crap, I've spent more time NOT climbing due to life/injuries/etc. than you've been climbing. And, you post to everyone on this site like you are the end all be all of the climbing world. Dude, take a couple of deep breaths and relax. You don't have the experience you think you do. Sure, you're entitled to your opinions, but be careful . . . climbing may not be rocket science, but it can be somewhat esoteric and dodgy.
Second, madrock - you've posted that the Metolius, Pagan and Petzle (sic) hangers are nearly identical. Perhaps now would be a good time for you to tell everyone what your connections to Pagan, Acme, Mad Rock, etc. are! Don't push the Pagan shit without disclosing that you are a part owner.
As to the original post: If you are looking for useful info on what bolts to use, I suggest you seek the advice of people whose faces you recognize, whose actions you know, and whose behavior you actually want to emulate.
Now, its time for some more Rye.
~Manhattans anyone?
|
|
|
|
|
paganmonkeyboy
Dec 20, 2005, 3:37 AM
Post #32 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663
|
In reply to: ~Manhattans anyone?
Yes, please. Muddled, like this thread...
|
|
|
|
|
aryemanhattanforme
Dec 20, 2005, 3:41 AM
Post #33 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: In reply to: ~Manhattans anyone? Yes, please. Muddled, like this thread...
Shaken, stirred, muddled . . . just know they'll be perfect.
|
|
|
|
|
metrogroaz
Dec 20, 2005, 3:59 AM
Post #34 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 99
|
In reply to: Second, madrock - you've posted that the Metolius, Pagan and Petzle (sic) hangers are nearly identical. Perhaps now would be a good time for you to tell everyone what your connections to Pagan, Acme, Mad Rock, etc. are! Don't push the Pagan s--- without disclosing that you are a part owner.
I'm confused as to when he pushed the pagan hangers?
|
|
|
|
|
rockguide
Dec 20, 2005, 4:14 AM
Post #35 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
|
Wading through the fire ....
Yes - hangers are probably strong enough ... I use one that looks similar (sticks neck out ... how much can one see) but a big issue is the thinner hangers can chew up quickdraw carabiners. Not an issue on mixed bolt/gear routes or long routes. On sport routes that see air time ... not the best.
Beef for sport (big falls, lots of falls, falls with little rope out)
Thin for long routes (hopefully few falls with lots of rope out and lots of weight to haul to the drillin stance.)
Look forward to seeing the topos (post up or you cannot be my friend)
Brian
(ps ... sorry - too busy to flame - I'll make up for it next week)
|
|
|
|
|
baigot
Dec 20, 2005, 4:22 AM
Post #36 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2003
Posts: 87
|
Hey! all you:
To the guy who start this: Why don´t you send an e-mail to ASCA people??? I understand there´s responsable people there... imagine if in this site you follow a guy who fuck with you answering "YES...this hanger resist 400kn" and the next day you kill someone or yourself.
And i join the guy who said that if this guy´s friends is 12 years experience, he should know by now whic hanger is good or not...
Come On !!!
This is climbing, there´s bunch of good questions to be answered...
By the way: I´m 6 or 7 years climbing experience and i prefer a cam or a stopper for a new line instead a drill, i feel un-experienced and i think there´s a long road to take the responsability of bolt a route.
Cheers
Vicente.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 20, 2005, 4:32 AM
Post #37 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
In reply to: This is an insane thread, which might very well be redundant. Second, madrock - you've posted that the Metolius, Pagan and Petzle (sic) hangers are nearly identical. Perhaps now would be a good time for you to tell everyone what your connections to Pagan, Acme, Mad Rock, etc. are! Don't push the Pagan s--- without disclosing that you are a part owner.
I think it's mostly MadRock trying to chase down a thread he can throw flames at JimDavis in their little war.. why else would he bring up a thread almost a year old :roll: :drama:
|
|
|
|
|
squierbypetzl
Moderator
Dec 20, 2005, 4:44 AM
Post #38 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
|
:lol:
Ahh, good times, good times...
|
|
|
|
|
aryemanhattanforme
Dec 20, 2005, 5:13 AM
Post #39 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: In reply to: Second, madrock - you've posted that the Metolius, Pagan and Petzle (sic) hangers are nearly identical. Perhaps now would be a good time for you to tell everyone what your connections to Pagan, Acme, Mad Rock, etc. are! Don't push the Pagan s--- without disclosing that you are a part owner. I'm confused as to when he pushed the pagan hangers?
You're probably right. In my drunken stupor, I went and assumed that Pagan wasn't on the same level as Petzl and Metolius; and that by equating his own company to those others, Mad Rock was pushing product. Mea culpa.
|
|
|
|
|
metrogroaz
Dec 20, 2005, 5:34 AM
Post #40 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 99
|
In reply to: In my drunken stupor
Its all good, in my drunken stupor, I actually was confused as to when he physically pushed them? What'd the hanger do to him?
Its all good. Well except I forgot how you respond in latin. For shame.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Dec 20, 2005, 6:37 AM
Post #41 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
In reply to: Its all good. Well except I forgot how you respond in latin. For shame.
Carpe cervesum.
|
|
|
|
|
locker
Dec 20, 2005, 6:45 AM
Post #42 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2004
Posts: 130
|
considering some of the stuff I have used through the years, both on my own routes and clipping ungodly who knows what, I'd venture to say the hangers are GOOD ENOUGH and that is GOOD ENOUGH!!!...
but don't go by what I say... all I know is I have some and metolius and fixe. I trust them all with my life!!!...
and last week I clipped a rusted, old, thin, homemade monster, and gave it a sideways glance as I climbed by it........
|
|
|
|
|
rockguide
Dec 20, 2005, 7:17 AM
Post #43 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
|
In reply to: In reply to: Its all good. Well except I forgot how you respond in latin. For shame. Carpe cervesum.
Can we set these manners aside and get back to the ad hominem that made this site great?
Brian
(but I will still take the beer)
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Dec 20, 2005, 7:30 AM
Post #44 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
In reply to: we aren't going to bolt any cracks or any other routes that have obvious placements, but even if we did, it is our decision since we are the ONLY ones developing this canyon. end of rant
Choose your thoughts more carefully too...
|
|
|
|
|
aryemanhattanforme
Dec 20, 2005, 7:34 PM
Post #45 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Its all good. Well except I forgot how you respond in latin. For shame. Carpe cervesum. Can we set these manners aside and get back to the ad hominem that made this site great? Brian (but I will still take the beer)
. . . . and the ad nauseam too.
|
|
|
|
|
brent_e
Dec 20, 2005, 7:44 PM
Post #46 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
|
easy there, trey.
Jim and Euroford are good guys just looking out for the rock, access, etc.
No need to feel attached and to attach. Perhaps you can save face by, you know, seeing that you jumped a little bit and say "sorry"!!!??? :D
Your tag is pretty funny, btw..what is that???
Brent
EDIT: mmmmm cease the beer!
|
|
|
|
|
madrock
Dec 22, 2005, 10:07 PM
Post #47 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 255
|
My statement below seems pretty neutral and does not apper to favor any paticular hanger. I'm sorry if someone thinks there is a sales pitch in it. Please reread and I think you will agree.
I have all three hangers in my hand. The Metolius hanger, the Pagan hanger and the Petzle hangers are all the same thinckness and all seem pretty good (no sharp edges). The Pagan and the Metolius are the same weight (approx 53 grms and the Petzl weighs less but is smaller. The metolius has no strength stamped on it at all, the Petzl is stamped 25kN and the Pagan is stamped 24kN. Hope the facts are helpful.
Update and FYI in case you did not already read it earlier. I work in the climbing industy. I buy from, drink beers with, sell to, own, climb with staff from or have connections to almost every climbing comapany in the world. Clear enough for everyone. I am bias and you cannot trust me.
If any of my three or four industry post stalkers want to follow me again, I have just posted something on the North face thread. Please come and muddle that post also.
Joe
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Dec 22, 2005, 10:41 PM
Post #48 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
In reply to: My statemnet below seems pretty neutral and does not apper to favor any paticular hanger. I'm sorry if someone thinks there is a sales pitch in it. Please reread and I think you will agree. I have all three hangers in my hand. The Metolius hanger, the Pagan hanger and the Petzle hangers are all the same thinckness and all seem pretty good (no sharp edges). The Pagan and the Metolius are the same weight (approx 53 grms and the Petzl weighs less but is smaller. The metolius has no strength stamped on it at all, the Petzl is stamped 25kN and the Pagan is stamped 24kN. Hope the facts are helpful.
One other note. I have seen many brands of hangers test up to 40kN no problems, most companies just do not stamp and rate them that high. For the record, I am bias, work in the industry and have a connection to almost every climbing company in the world. Joe
Seems neutral to me:
Given some of the posts which are in this thread, it must be a prerequisite that you post here only after smoking out and/or drinking in excess of 12 beers or so. Climbing @33 years. For years 1/4" bolts were used. Almost all 1/4 bolt hangers were thinner than any 3/8 made today. Smaller too. Folks rarely saw a bolt or hanger failure (they did happen, I still have a hanger/bolt combo which pulled out on my second with bodyweight only on the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral bolt ladder still stuck in my chalkbag from 20 some plus years ago to remind me of this fact)
I don't feel uncomfortable climbing on any commercially made 3/8 hanger out there today.
You shouldn't either.
For massive projects, the Pagan stuff would really be the schizz: leaving you some $ in the bank for food.
Metolius makes some superb thicker hangers which are great for directly threading and rapping on, and fixe has the ringed hangers to duplicate that feat. If you want to spend the green and want to directly rappel off the anchor - get one of those: otherwise why not get the Pagan/Mad rock/Acme hangers and save some scratch. They are rated about as strong as the 3/8 bolts rate at, which is plenty good. (Assuming a perfect install on the bolt).
Lighten up some out there eh?
BTW: installation of bolts should be carefully and skillfully done IMO. Much more important than any hanger you are gonna stick on it. Check this out:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...hp?p=1270661#1270661
regards all:
bill
|
|
|
|
|
aryemanhattanforme
Dec 22, 2005, 11:44 PM
Post #49 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: My statement below seems pretty neutral and does not apper to favor any paticular hanger. I'm sorry if someone thinks there is a sales pitch in it. Please reread and I think you will agree. I have all three hangers in my hand. The Metolius hanger, the Pagan hanger and the Petzle hangers are all the same thinckness and all seem pretty good (no sharp edges). The Pagan and the Metolius are the same weight (approx 53 grms and the Petzl weighs less but is smaller. The metolius has no strength stamped on it at all, the Petzl is stamped 25kN and the Pagan is stamped 24kN. Hope the facts are helpful.
Update and FYI in case you did not already read it earlier. I work in the climbing industy. I buy from, drink beers with, sell to, own, climb with staff from or have connections to almost every climbing comapany in the world. Clear enough for everyone. I am bias and you cannot trust me.
If any of my three or four industry post stalkers want to follow me again, I have just posted something on the North face thread. Please come and muddle that post also.
Joe
Hey Joe,
I filed a mea culpa, and used drunken stupor as my defense. It's similar to the twinkie defense.
~Josh
|
|
|
|
|
treyfrancisclimbs
Dec 23, 2005, 12:17 AM
Post #50 of 52
(5387 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 170
|
Wow! I thought this thread died long ago. FYI, I would never take anyone's opinion on this site to heart, it was just a simple question.
Brent_e, that is a quote from the movie Mystery Men. One of my favorites.
|
|
|
|
|
|
