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rickoldskool
Aug 10, 2002, 8:35 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
Posts: 214
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Ball-nut I like your enthusiasm. Of course your know that isn't an easy 10b, in fact could be considered a sandbag. Last time I climbed it (early june) wasn't pretty but I got up it.
Here's some things I hope will help you.
Face away toward the trees
A chicken wing works better than an armbar
Most people like to ride the outer edge of the crack, Don't! Get into it far enough to make solid heel-toe or foot stacks
Treat it like a squeeze chimney (which it is), Not an offwidth
BE PATIENT, it's not speed climbing, you have to take little bites at a time. think like an inchworm
Good Luck
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ergophobe
Aug 12, 2002, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2002
Posts: 150
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All good advice. can I add the following
- tow your rack
- #5 Camalot is very welcome, but you should just need one.
- bring more handsize stuff than you expect (for up higher).
I stay fairly far out, with arm bars and chicken wings on the the left, and anything and everything on the right. Once you get past the bottleneck, I get into a fairly classic chimney with my right foot fairly far out. I haven't done it in a couple of years, so I'm rusty on details, but I remember getting blisters on my right palm last time.
Tom
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radistrad
Aug 20, 2002, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
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My advice: Avoid it.
I cant stand those trashing chimneys, the first pitch of the slack was enough for me.
Funny though now that its being talked aobut I'll have to go and try it, yuck (in a sick and fun way)
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karlbaba
Aug 21, 2002, 3:32 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
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One extra Ahab tidbit. I face into the rock and there are many places where tiny edges on the face to the left help me make upward progress.
Alternately, sometimes I'll walk my feet up inside the crack so I'm getting a bit sideways, then chimney my arms and upper body up (hard to describe but be creative!)
I've watched a very petite woman cruise it by climbing near the edge and folding her foot back to push off the outside edge of the crack. My measurements don't permit this
Peace
Karl
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