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phlsphr
May 29, 2006, 11:09 PM
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Last week at the New River Rendezvous I took the self-rescue clinic with Craig Luebben. I was sobered by Craig's comment concerning the number of people he has known who have died climbing. I came away, for one thing, resolved to back up my rappel with a prusick off of my leg loop, something I haven't always bothered to do.
Today I am sitting here shocked at the news of the death of friend. Anyone who climbs regularly at Kendal Cliffs in Peninsula Ohio knows Som and Donnie. Donnie is one of the biggest climbers at the gym, and Som one of the smallest. Som just had a special spirit, always a smile and friendly words. Now she is dead. I can't imagine how it must be for Donnie, who saw her fall. It will be hard to climb at the gym again for some time.
The only reports so far are from a brief local newspaper story--and there's no reliable information there to go on. I want to understand what happened. Is there always an investigation of such accidents by knowledgeable people from within the climbing community? How is that done?
Meanwhile. Be safe. Be redundant. Double Check everything.
http://www.morganton.com/...7634&path=!frontpage
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moose_droppings
May 29, 2006, 11:57 PM
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How terrible.
Condolences to family and friends.
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tradgal
May 30, 2006, 12:27 AM
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First and foremost, my most sincere condolences to Don and Som's family.
I was a former manager of Kendall Cliffs. Don and Som were members while I worked there and I had the pleasure of getting to know both of them. Som (yes, a very small women) had the biggest and happiest of personalities. I am sure all that knew her will miss her! She had a great charisma.
Since moving out of Ohio in 2003, I was not able to keep up with all of my acquaintences. However, often through my travels I have had the pleasure of seeing old friends at many different climbing destinations all over!
In fact, the last time I ran into Don was at Fern Buttress at the New River! He was taking a class with a guide school there to further his climbing education and skills. A VERY commendable undertaking.
At a time like this it's hard to think about lessons...but remember that life is very short and can be taken at any time. If I saw Som, then Don was two steps back and vice versa. I hope that their families can take solace in knowing she was doing something she truly enjoyed and had been doing regularly for years!
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deltav
May 30, 2006, 12:37 AM
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I just read about this this evening before getting on here. It is a very sad story indeed. My sincere condolences.
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emilb
May 30, 2006, 12:38 AM
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I can't say that I knew either of them well but I had run into Don a couple of times at the New. He was always so happy and excited about being out climbing. My heart goes out to him and both of their families.
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charley
May 30, 2006, 12:42 AM
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I heard about this at the nrg this weekend. Some of the ppl there knew them. So so sad. Be careful out there.
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majid_sabet
May 30, 2006, 7:54 AM
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I am very sorry to know you lost a friend.
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jager
May 30, 2006, 6:13 PM
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I was doing some climbing in the table rock area on sunday. While I was walking the trail trying to find devils cellar, a hiker mentioned that a lady had died the day before trying to rap off of table rock. Apparentlly she wasn't hooked to the rope or the rope somehow came loose, not much info is available. This is about the only info I can find:
Article 1
Article 2
Rest In Piece, Somsanouck Gallo. My thoughts are with your family and friends.
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jager
May 30, 2006, 6:40 PM
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Sorry for the double post and thanks to the mod for moving it. I tried searching, but searched for Gallo and Som's full first name. Very sad indeed. I guess all you can hope for is that everyone who reads this or knows her will be safe and double/triple check everything. I know I will.
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veganboyjosh
May 30, 2006, 6:42 PM
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didn't/don't know any of the involved, but my heartfelt condolences go out to the friends and family...
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dontmaytagme
May 30, 2006, 7:05 PM
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Unfortunately, Donnie says he will not climb again after seeing Som fall.
After Donnie, Big John and I discussed, the only way that this could have been avoided, would seem to appear that jumping on rap, "sport rapelling", caused the gates on non lockers to open, (while the rope, only 20 feet from the anchor was out,) and have the rope eject itself from the biners. Those there do not recall if the biners were locked. According to a very close source.. Som was intact. The harness, biner and ATC, and EDK were all kosher. Some say that Som only clipped in on one side of the rope.. who knows.. I seriously, seriously doubt this.
In the end, saying woulda / coulda / shoulda does not resolve that there was a fatality.. so.. I don't know what else to think. Having climbed with Big John and Donnie at the New.. these cats are tbook safe, aid climbers are.. I would not be surprised if they double checked things mid sequence.. this accident is an oddity.
If you are interested in going to the services.. get ahold of someone.. be it, me, philosopher or whomever.
Som will be missed.
John
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billl7
May 30, 2006, 8:37 PM
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Please accept my condolences to those close to Som.
Sounds like 2 theories:
i) gate flutter on at least 2 biners with neither lockers or not locked;
ii) only one strand was fully engaged in the ATC and its biner;
I can imagine in "ii", initially getting both strands through the ATC but only 1 through the gate of the ATC's biner and not noticing; seems like there would be rope burns on hands.
Only the best regards.
Bill L.
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tradrenn
May 30, 2006, 11:44 PM
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R.I.P.
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dontmaytagme
Jun 1, 2006, 12:33 AM
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Ok. A few things have come to light as I am speaking with the party involved at this moment.
Large, 'biners. Airlock2? Not Williams.
Both ends in dirt.
EDK was kosher.
No rock fall. Just a snap.
Perhaps the knot rolling through the biners.. causing the gates to open.
After entertaining the possiblity of S&R in Colorado.. I don't think that this is a typical accident. I also think that it is somewhat unrepeatable.
Did Som have a prussik? No. Would it save her? No. Rock fall, No. Anchor was still 'existing' prior, during and after the scenerio.
May her soul rest in peace.
http://www.funeralquestions.com/...asp?listing_id=59250
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 1, 2006, 1:17 AM
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Please clarify if you can??? Was the top anchor bolts clipped with 2 draws or slings without lockers??? this is standard for many? Are you suer that both strands were properly through the rap device?? If both strands were properly through thr rap device then it seems that the only other posibility would be somehow coming unclipped from the top biners?? back to slings with at least one locker for me if that is the case.
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billl7
Jun 1, 2006, 2:39 AM
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In reply to: Large, 'biners. Airlock2? Not Williams. ... Perhaps the knot rolling through the biners.. causing the gates to open.
I played a little with an EDK tied on the ends of a 10.5 mm rope. Hung it on two "large" biners. Pulled the knot up against the carabiners. This can cause the unweighted strand to rise up and come against the side of the gate just before the knot slips completely through - if the circumstances are just so:
a) of course, the strand on the EDK side must initially be some inches longer than the other strand;
b) consider the "side" of the knot where the 2 rope strands (not the tails) exit the knot; optimal for this scenario is when that side of the knot is facing roughly away from the carabiner as the knot starts to be pulled through; this causes the loose strand to easily rise up against the side of the gate since the knot gets rotated quite a bit;
d) the longer strand might press hard upon the gate(s) if the longer strand begins to be weighted near the time that the knots begins to roll through; perhaps just as it roles - where the increasing weight on the looser strand presses it through the gates; if this happens then the rope is fully released from the biners as you imagined;
e) an odd orientation of the 2 carabiners could encourage pressing open the gates; for example, if the carabiners were not allowed to hang in their usual orientation but with the gates upward and closer than normal to horizontal; or if the biner shape is really odd so hanging agains rock pushes the gates out and upward, closer to horizontal;
Perhaps with the exact type of carabiners and the same sized rope one might be able to reproduce the above. Again, fiddling with the carabiner orientation might make the difference - assuming the circumstances of the actual anchor might allow this.
Most would tend to discount this kind of scenario if it is known that at least one of the biners was a locker AND was locked or if it is known that the biner gates were opposite and opposed.
Bill L.
Edit: One other thought - With spring loaded lockers that don't have to rotate as far to unlock (half turn?), maybe the long rope strand pulling across the gates could rotate them into the unlocked position. However, this seems like quite a long shot. And gates being opposite and opposed would completely rule this out.
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organic
Jun 1, 2006, 2:51 AM
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Sucks losing a friend and climbing partner. I pray for strength for the family and friends.
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bhilden
Jun 1, 2006, 2:55 AM
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I am not passing judgement on what happened, but here is something one of my climbing partners taught me to do. When you are rappelling off a climb you are usually hooked into the anchor as you set up the rappel. After you have set up the rappel but before you unclip from the anchor, lean back and fully weight the rappel just to make sure that everything is kosher. Once your rappel setup has passed the test then you can unclip from the anchor and proceed to rappel down.
Bruce
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 1, 2006, 3:12 AM
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Bruce, that is exactly what i do and recomend. In this case it is possible that the knott shifted and somehow jumped the ropes out of non locking biners durring the rap???
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dogger
Jun 1, 2006, 8:53 PM
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I'm confused--What is EDK?
Did the (tied) rap ropes somehow unclip themselves from some unlocking biners. Were these biners through webbing and through bolts??
Which route and which pitch did this happen??
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trenchdigger
Jun 1, 2006, 9:07 PM
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In reply to: Sounds like 2 theories: i) gate flutter on at least 2 biners with neither lockers or not locked; ii) only one strand was fully engaged in the ATC and its biner;
Assuming the assumptions are all true, there would be a third possibility that could have led to the anchor/rope as found.
Pass both ropes through the anchor point carabiners then tie the EDK. It may catch initially, but with some (larger) carabiners, it can slide through.
Sincerest condolences to the families and friends... I hate to hear of these things.
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crackrn
Jun 1, 2006, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: I'm confused--What is EDK?
European Death Knot
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billl7
Jun 2, 2006, 12:48 AM
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In reply to: Assuming the assumptions are all true, there would be a third possibility that could have led to the anchor/rope as found. Pass both ropes through the anchor point carabiners then tie the EDK. It may catch initially, but with some (larger) carabiners, it can slide through.
Good point.
i) gate flutter allowed the rope to eject from both biners;
ii) only one strand fully through belay device;
iii) rolling knot brought loose strand against gates, then loading of loose strand forced it through the unlocked gates;
iv) both strands dropped into biners; EDK on one side of the biners; long rope strands on the other; strands loaded which pulls the knot through large biners.
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legalone
Jun 2, 2006, 1:48 PM
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This is a very special reply.
Hello everyone. My name is Herb Salle. I live in Canton, Ohio. Donnie Gallo is one of my BEST kickboxers. He is also one of the finest martial artists I have ever meet.
I have known Donnie for over 25 years. He is more of a friend then anyone could understand. Donnie is a giver, he is honest, he is always there for people and most of all, Donnie is a husband that every women would want.
Som was his life. Som was his partner. Som was his lover. Som was his wife. Som is going to be missed by so many people, but most of all, Som will be missed by Donnie.
My wife and I always knew that their marriage was special. It was a marriage made in Heaven. It really was.
I talked to Donnie and his Mom and Dad this week. Donnie will need a lot of help, strength and prays from everyone.
I can not imagine what was going through Donnie's mind when this happened. But I do know, he will never forget it.
I know Donnie. I know he will blame himself for this. PLEASE don't let him.
Please take a few minutes to let him know how much he means to all of you and let him know how much Som will be missed.
Donnie is a friend, he is a brother martial artist, he is family and Donnie, Robin and I love you and will always be there for you. Som was like my little sister and she will be in our prays.
Please help my friend, my brother, Donnie.
Donnie Gallo
37 - Forth Street
Navarre, Ohio 44662
Thank you everyone for reading this. Please be safe.
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