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thatnameisalreadychosen
Aug 7, 2006, 9:06 PM
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Hey all - above the 3rd belay (4th pitch) where the exposed step-around is - the two big blocks that you stand on as you do the step around are VERY LOOSE.
To make matters worse, they are really the nearest location to place pro.
Problem: get on the blocks, set up an anchor for that exposed step around, take a fall, pro knocks blocks loose (they have to be 500lbs each), you take a huge whipper as the blocks come down on top of you...
no bueno...
if/when those blocks do fall, they are right above the climbs on the North West Recess.
Not that i am planning on doing it, but i think placing one bolt there should be something for the community to discuss...
At the very least, watch your placements there!
Safe climbing
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trenchdigger
Aug 7, 2006, 10:53 PM
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In reply to: Hey all - above the 3rd belay (4th pitch) where the exposed step-around is - the two big blocks that you stand on as you do the step around are VERY LOOSE.
In reply to: To make matters worse, they are really the nearest location to place pro.
In reply to: Problem: get on the blocks, set up an anchor for that exposed step around, take a fall, pro knocks blocks loose (they have to be 500lbs each), you take a huge whipper as the blocks come down on top of you...
Agreed...
In reply to: if/when those blocks do fall, they are right above the climbs on the North West Recess.
In reply to: Not that i am planning on doing it, but i think placing one bolt there should be something for the community to discuss...
In reply to: At the very least, watch your placements there!
In reply to: Safe climbing |
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glyrocks
Aug 7, 2006, 11:27 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Hey all - above the 3rd belay (4th pitch) where the exposed step-around is - the two big blocks that you stand on as you do the step around are VERY LOOSE. Tahquitz is full of loose blocks. I doubt this is anything new. In reply to: To make matters worse, they are really the nearest location to place pro. Then don't place there. In reply to: Problem: get on the blocks, set up an anchor for that exposed step around, take a fall, pro knocks blocks loose (they have to be 500lbs each), you take a huge whipper as the blocks come down on top of you... Again, DO NOT place pro - let alone an anchor :!: - behind loose blocks. Agreed... In reply to: if/when those blocks do fall, they are right above the climbs on the North West Recess. So make sure you don't knock them loose. Period. Avoid them. Climb around them. DO NOT place pro behind them. If you must touch them, do so with utmost caution. In reply to: Not that i am planning on doing it, but i think placing one bolt there should be something for the community to discuss... Oh boy... In reply to: At the very least, watch your placements there! Oh yah, did I mention that you should NOT place gear behind loose blocks??? In reply to: Safe climbing :?
You could have saved yourself some time and just told everyone you're going to write dickhead responses and that we should all just ignore them.
Thank you for your time.
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caughtinside
Aug 7, 2006, 11:34 PM
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In reply to: You could have saved yourself some time and just told everyone you're going to write dickhead responses and that we should all just ignore them. Thank you for your time.
I don't know about that. putting gear behind loose blocks is far more dangerous than just a loose block.
Hey, this is climbing. sometimes there are loose rocks, even on popular routes. deal with it, and don't knock them down.
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trenchdigger
Aug 8, 2006, 1:29 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: You could have saved yourself some time and just told everyone you're going to write dickhead responses and that we should all just ignore them. Thank you for your time. I don't know about that. putting gear behind loose blocks is far more dangerous than just a loose block. Hey, this is climbing. sometimes there are loose rocks, even on popular routes. deal with it, and don't knock them down.
That's my point. And that's exactly what the OP is implying he did. I'm not even getting into the proposal of adding a bolt to the route. That's a whole different can of worms. I could have been nicer about it I guess, but jeez... I was climbing at Tahquitz on Sunday - probably the same day the OP was. And in the NW Recess - possibly directly under some dude that was placing pro behind a 500+# block! I don't think my helmet would have done much for me had he knocked it loose.
Tahquitz has loose rock on almost every route. If you can't climb safely around it... well, put it this way. How would you feel if your careless move sent a block plummeting that plowed a couple of unsuspecting climbers off the wall and into the talus below?
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addiroids
Aug 8, 2006, 2:07 AM
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QUIT CLIMBING OUTSIDE. IT IS DANGEROUS. GO BACK TO THE GYM.
GOD YOU PEOPLE ARE FUCKING PANSIES. STAY THE FUCK OFF THE ROCK IF YOU CAN'T DEAL WITH LOOSE SHIT. GOD DAMN, THAT ROUTE IS 5.1. FIND A WAY AROUND THE LOOSE SHIT.
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thegreytradster
Aug 8, 2006, 3:35 AM
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The block has been loose for at least thirty years, probably hundreds.
Tahquitz is an ALPINE crag. Loose items go with the territory. It isn't a gym with 3/8 inch grade 8 bolts keeping the holds on!
It isn't a safe place, a fact understood by the local natives that named it after the Devi Taquwitch with the local lore then being that it was the gate to hell.
Spurt climbers, stay home!
(or at least learn to climb without yarding on things and tearing the place down)
BTW it's a 5.1 not a 5.4
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braaaaaaaadley
Aug 8, 2006, 3:45 AM
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Dude, chill out. Why does everyone get pissed off when anyone takes the time to warn others of safety issues or suggest the placement of a bolt here or there. People need to realize that not everyone has common sense or the ability to spot a loose block when they have never been on a climb before. I mean how is one to know the difference between that one block may have been used 1000 times and held an anchor without moving... (and is the one key rock that everyone builds an anchor off of without tradgedy)... and another rock which is of similar size and shape could fall off at any moment. The point is... you dont know untill something bad happens.
addiroids... quit submitting stupid posts... your making yourself look like an idiot (and the odd's are you're not).
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thegreytradster
Aug 8, 2006, 3:58 AM
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So we have someone in VA advising the placement of bolts on a 900' 5.1 route on an alpine crag, established in 1937 with a sugested time of 3 hrs and 2-4 nut placements. :lol:
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trenchdigger
Aug 8, 2006, 4:07 AM
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Just curious...
Were you the guys on the route on Sunday? Made some massive tape gloves to prep for the route? One of you named Adam? Get your rope stuck in a tree midway up?
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jt512
Aug 8, 2006, 4:13 AM
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In reply to: Just curious... Were you the guys on the route on Sunday? Made some massive tape gloves to prep for the route? One of you named Adam? Get your rope stuck in a tree midway up?
Tahquitz must be quite exciting this year, with Williamson closed.
Jay
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braaaaaaaadley
Aug 8, 2006, 4:52 AM
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In reply to: So we have someone in VA advising the placement of bolts on a 900' 5.1 route on an alpine crag, established in 1937 with a sugested time of 3 hrs and 2-4 nut placements. :lol:
Sorta... we have a bored Virginian pissed off b/c his partner just bailed out of a trip to Seneca that should have taken place tomorrow. Plus I never advised anything... I just agreed with the OP and got sorta annoyed at macho man posting overly assholeish comments.
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thatnameisalreadychosen
Aug 8, 2006, 4:54 AM
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The route sees ALOT of noob traffic every day it is open - usually a line forms at the bottom.
Don't get your Depends in a bunch if i want inexperienced climbers to be safe while climbing above you. :cry:
Next time you are up there - climb it (or solo it if you feel like :twisted: ) and see what I'm talking about before spouting verbal diarrhea. There is no place else to place bomber pro near the step around spot. You can go to the right, instead of left (which will probably happen when the block comes down), but the exposure is the fun part. :shock:
The whole reason for the post was so all the people que-ing up in the morning don't hit you "gnarly rad" climbers with the block nOObs knock loose.
Despite your "cool-ness" the warning bell will sound
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davelwang
Aug 8, 2006, 5:14 AM
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In reply to: Hey all - above the 3rd belay (4th pitch) where the exposed step-around is - the two big blocks that you stand on as you do the step around are VERY LOOSE.
Thanks for the heads up
In reply to: Tahquitz is an ALPINE crag. Loose items go with the territory. It isn't a gym with 3/8 inch grade 8 bolts keeping the holds on! It isn't a safe place, a fact understood by the local natives that named it after the Devi Taquwitch with the local lore then being that it was the gate to hell.
Yep. Everybody has a few good falling object stories at Tahquitz.
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coreydacat
Aug 9, 2006, 4:25 AM
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In reply to: Tahquitz must be quite exciting this year, with Williamson closed. Jay
awesome.
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trenchdigger
Aug 9, 2006, 4:49 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Just curious... Were you the guys on the route on Sunday? Made some massive tape gloves to prep for the route? One of you named Adam? Get your rope stuck in a tree midway up? Tahquitz must be quite exciting this year, with Williamson closed. Jay
Yah, fortunately they're all too scared to climb the slabs at Suicide.
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yazey
Aug 9, 2006, 5:26 PM
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I was seconding with thatnameisalreadychosen, and it was I who confirmed that the blocks were loose when I pull the #6 nut from behind it, the block shifted. They are huge, and sit on a very flat ledge, leaning into the rock. When banged, they do not sound loose or like they are about to fall. When faced with the circumstances of a long traverse, a huge step around corner, and the exposure you get at that step around "to place or not to place" is just about even. Your next pro up the crack was a good ten feet as well.
All the he was giving was a little advice, passing along beta for others to climb safely. So thank you thatnameisalreadychosen for adding to the climbing communities collective knowledge. and to glyrocks, you a just a TOOL!
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glyrocks
Aug 9, 2006, 6:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: You could have saved yourself some time and just told everyone you're going to write dickhead responses and that we should all just ignore them. Thank you for your time. I don't know about that. putting gear behind loose blocks is far more dangerous than just a loose block. Hey, this is climbing. sometimes there are loose rocks, even on popular routes. deal with it, and don't knock them down. That's my point. And that's exactly what the OP is implying he did...
While that's a good point, and may have even been your point, you were a dick about it, and it was completely uneccessary. So I called you on it.
Yazey- I get the feeling you don't what my post was referring to. I'll leave it at that, don't want to be a dickhead.
Start your poo-flinging engines...
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yazey
Aug 9, 2006, 8:43 PM
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No Trenchdigger. Saturday, no tape, and no stuck ropes. Go hunting for noobs to flame elsewhere.
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baja_java
Aug 10, 2006, 12:55 AM
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thatnameisalreadychosen and yazey, don't let all those detractors keep you from doing what you know in your heart is right. beware of loose rocks on big mountains, that's a public message that just can't be repeated and over-repeated enough. but i do hope you do a more thorough job than noting only that one loose block when you know full well there might be many others. no, that'd just be an halfass job of looking out for the unwary beginners. go that extra mile. like take photos of Tahquitz from all angles and circle all the loose rocks with a red pen and publish them. that'd certainly be more helpful. and oh, i see that the Tahquitz guidebook itself has failed to make absolutely clear this very clear and very present danger of loose rocks on big mountains. sure, there're couple paragraphs in the intro about how you ought to "avoid holds or blocks that appear or sound loose," but we all know that's not enough, not for safeguarding the unwary stupid people. you should track down randy in JTree or bob at VE and implore them to put a big warning on their book, like right on the cover, "BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCKS ON BIG MOUNTAINS," in full caps just like that, right across the cover photo of darrell hensel on The Edge. don't hesitate to give them a good lecturing to either. hell, they deserve it, for their downright criminal failure to emphatically emphasize this very obvious danger of loose rocks on big mountains. yes, do that. and do tell us how the conversations went
sincerely,
sean, fellow concerner of loose rocks on big mountains
PS after you're done documenting the loose rocks on Tahquitz, you can do Yosemite and the Tetons too, for starters
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rock_ranger
Aug 10, 2006, 1:13 AM
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Baja, there you go messing with natural selection again!!! :D
Trophy...
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thegreytradster
Aug 10, 2006, 2:41 AM
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The informed know that the only reason that Yosemite is renowned for sound and climbable rock is that there is an extremely strong species of moss that grows native there and holds it all together.
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el_layclimber
Aug 10, 2006, 2:57 AM
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In reply to: The informed know that the only reason that Yosemite is renowned for sound and climbable rock is that there is an extremely strong species of moss that grows native there and holds it all together.
Wow, moss that prevents erosion. I learn something every time I log on here. I suppose all of you "trad" guys would say that it's unethical to secure loose holds using that instead of glue. I bet you could really fix Tahquitz good with some of that stuff. Do you think it could grow on sandstone too? Sedona could use some moss like that...
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thegreytradster
Aug 10, 2006, 3:20 AM
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Even with the moss
Sedona
Would still be choss.
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trenchdigger
Aug 10, 2006, 5:04 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: You could have saved yourself some time and just told everyone you're going to write dickhead responses and that we should all just ignore them. Thank you for your time. I don't know about that. putting gear behind loose blocks is far more dangerous than just a loose block. Hey, this is climbing. sometimes there are loose rocks, even on popular routes. deal with it, and don't knock them down. That's my point. And that's exactly what the OP is implying he did... While that's a good point, and may have even been your point...
DON'T PLACE GEAR BEHIND LOOSE BLOCKS!
Warning people of loose rock is all fine and good. I'm not mad about that. But it pisses me off when people climb recklessly and endanger themselves, their partner, and everyone around them. Climbing is about minimizing risk, not seeing how much stupid shit you can get away with. Go climb safe.
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