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synrock
Sep 7, 2006, 7:12 AM
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Why are you so stubborn?
I an not bashing NICROS holds. I WAS bashing Nicros EARLY holds. They sucked. None of those early shapes are in the current NICROS inventory. I am saying this for all the cyber free anvertising world to hear. I don't think nicros current holds suck.
Sorry for the misunderstanding. Why are you being so nasty?
Nate, the owner of nicros, spent most of his time in the early years focused on texture and durability and not on the best climbing shapes. That is why pusher became so popular, because they had good shapes.
Nicros sold a lot of holds in the early days because they looked pretty but none of my friends or the gyms I climbed at liked them.
Now, about your broken holds - are they very small with a flat head bolt?
I had a design flaw in those in that the flathead bolt was pressing against the synrock/plastic interface. Bad idea. They broke.
It is sad that you are so negative and nasty. I have some really big holds I could have sent you. That is where these holds really shine. When you can duplicate exactly a fontainbleau sloper it is a truely nice thing.
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whitribj
Sep 7, 2006, 12:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: . I detest the Nicros art hold syndrome. "Oh those artistic holds require you to figure out how to use them" Give me a break. Most of the early Nicros holds looked very pretty but when you put them on the wall it turned out that there was only one uncomfortable way to hold on to the thing. It took you 5 seconds to figure that out, and for the next 5 years you have the pig piece of plastic on your wall with one stupid way to hold on to it. Which you had memorized after 5 seconds. Please don't trash talk other hold companies in your effort to tout your own business here. Nircros makes awesome holds. Out of the sample holds I have recieved from you, all spin because the hard plastic does not "grip" the wall, two broke and one is as far as I am concerned completely unusable because it is too sharp, and borderline dangerous to pull on. All of my Nicros holds are awesome and my customers love them and want more. Giving away some free holds and paying the postage is a very noble way to promote your business, and I aplaud that...but don't bring down other hold companies to boost your "revolutionary" design.
Here in your own quote is where synrock mentioned the early Nicros holds.
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mturner
Sep 7, 2006, 3:46 PM
Post #53 of 102
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What is with you guys?! Who cares? We're all entitled to an opinion, even those of us trying to sell something. If you think synrock's comments are distasteful, shut up and don't ask for his holds.
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lambone
Sep 8, 2006, 9:32 AM
Post #54 of 102
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In reply to: Now, about your broken holds - are they very small with a flat head bolt? ok forget about the Nicros comment, sorry I blew up on you. I had a design flaw in those in that the flathead bolt was pressing against the synrock/plastic interface. Bad idea. They broke.
yes, they look like the foot chips in this picture, only with pink plastic.
I guess I don't quite get the four finger pocket holds that you have. like the big purple one, and the one in the upper right corner. They seem really sharp and uncomfortable to me...I have yet to be able to put it on a problem past vertical and actually want to grab it! :shock: yow!
I like the foot chips though, if the new plastic is stronger I'd buy more. Some of the pinches are cool too.
I have yet to see the "Font" size slopers...got pics?
http://i3.ebayimg.com/04/i/08/49/ag/02_12.JPG
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synrock
Sep 12, 2006, 3:57 AM
Post #55 of 102
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[quote="lambone"]In reply to: I guess I don't quite get the four finger pocket holds that you have. like the big purple one, and the one in the upper right corner. They seem really sharp and uncomfortable to me...I have yet to be able to put it on a problem past vertical and actually want to grab it! :shock: yow! I like the foot chips though, if the new plastic is stronger I'd buy more. Some of the pinches are cool too. I have yet to see the "Font" size slopers...got pics? http://i3.ebayimg.com/04/i/08/49/ag/02_12.JPG
I'll send you some updated versions of the chips (you have gen 1 - these will be gen 3 or 4.)
That uncomfortable hold is a bit too much on the rellistic side - but do you realize that the texture and the shape can be changed on this synrock stuff.
Pour some muriatic acid into the pocket and let sit for an hour or so. Wash it off, dry it Brush it with a toothbrush. This "weathers" the synrock sandstone in a very simular way to how a sandstone pocket outdoors weathers, but much quicker.
And if you want to really change the shape you can use sandpaper or a dremel tool. When you acid etch it you get texture back on the shape you carved.
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cjsimpso
Sep 12, 2006, 12:28 PM
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Synrock-
I just wanted to update you... the school training wall that I'm going to test your product on is being cleaned and mildly updated, which is why I haven't gotten back to you yet. I have the pod right here, and I'm very excited to test it, and will let you know ASAP. Thanks for your patience!
Chris
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lambone
Sep 19, 2006, 11:12 PM
Post #57 of 102
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Just got two more foot chips from Synrock...thanks!
(and sorry foor flaming you above :oops: )
I definately think the ones with a washer that use a square head/socket cap bolts are better then the beveled/flathead ones.
I think these types of holds do have alot of potentail and it's nice to see something a bit different on the market.
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ctardi
Sep 20, 2006, 3:46 AM
Post #58 of 102
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Just wondering about us canucks?
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synrock
Sep 20, 2006, 4:47 PM
Post #59 of 102
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sent them last week global priority mail
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shorty18
Sep 20, 2006, 9:25 PM
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I work at a local YMCA...I was wondering if maybe I could score a few samples and me and my boss will look into utilizing them on our wall?
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ctardi
Sep 21, 2006, 1:47 AM
Post #61 of 102
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Thanks Synrock! Will let you know what I think about em when I get em.
Ctardi
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ctardi
Sep 22, 2006, 3:50 AM
Post #62 of 102
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First off, thank you for the hold, it's already up on our bouldering wall, hopefully getting some traffic tonight.
I havn't climbed on it, but did go over it with a fine tooth comb. I think that the two main weaknesses will be the route setters, and the dishwasher.
Holds get abused alot, especially during setting and sorting/cleaning. A hold like that will usually last us about 2-3 years if it is of a high quality.
I would like to see two changes made for both asthetics, and durability. I would like the whole back of the hold to be made of the plastic, and the whole grabbing surface and front to be the texture. This will help sheild the texture when it is being handled roughly, as well as make it less likely for the hold to spin.
As far as the plastic goes, I see potential for some cool colors. I'd like to see the logo a bit more prominant on there. :wink:
I also got the small crimp/foothold, and agree that it should have a flat head bolt instead of a cap, as the caps stick out a bit too far.
All in all, we're very impressed with the idea, and I'd like to talk to you about getting a few more holds to test out at the gym!
Cam Tardi
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synrock
Sep 22, 2006, 5:22 PM
Post #63 of 102
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The texture portion of the hold, the synrock, is very durable suff. It's a tad brittle but mating it to the poly should damp down any tendancy for it to chip. I'd worry about it abusing other plastic holds when thrown together because the synrock is much harder than plastic. And I think you will find that the stuff doesn't need cleaning nearly as much as the plastic. It stays sticky like natural sandstone stays sticky.
I am also working on a new anti-rotation solution. My pure synrock holds never rotate because the backs are very rough. This is the opposite solution to the problem usually fixed by making the backs soft. It works really well on wood and surprisingly on textured concrete. I'll be getting some samples of this particular method out to people with textured walls to see how it works.
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ctardi
Sep 23, 2006, 8:05 AM
Post #64 of 102
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Check your PM's. :wink:
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sidepull
Oct 2, 2006, 10:11 PM
Post #65 of 102
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Here's my review (sorry this has taken so long).
I received a three finger half-pad sloping crimp or a jib depending on who you are. I really like the gripping surface - both the texture and the shape. It seemed that there was a lot of subtlety packed into a really small hold. It was also more durable than I expected - I accidently dropped it on the concrete before getting it on my board and it didn't shatter.
However, once I put it on my board I was a bit disappointed. Now, I have a 60-degree board so there isn't a lot that I can do with a hold this size. But I have been training for a problem that had a hold that is very similar. The problem was that when I grabbed the hold it flexed. In other words, as I weighted the hold I could feel it compress. I'm pretty sure this compression is caused by the glue acting as a sort of suspension system between the texture and the plastic. I haven't noticed that others have had this problem - maybe I got a hold that had a lot of glue. Have others noticed this feeling of compression? I like to see how the larger holds handle and see if they have the same feel.
Also, the hold does tend to spin. I usually glue sandpaper to the back of holds that don't have a soft base - so I solved the problem. I do prefer soft-base holds though.
I applaud your efforts at innovation - this still needs a few improvements to really hit the mark.
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lambone
Oct 3, 2006, 6:35 AM
Post #66 of 102
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syrock,
still seeing some breakage issues.
the two sided foot jib (like the one directly below the carabiner) broke on first placement. I put it on myself and didn't over tighten, it was just a nudge past snug...and the wall was flat and smooth.
http://i3.ebayimg.com/04/i/08/49/ag/02_12.JPG
Bolth sides of the "synrock" texture split in half and fell off.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I really like these holds for feet and just wish they were a bid stronger for gym use. If any of my regular setteres had placed the hold they would have definately cracked it because we are use to Franklins that you can really crank tight.
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cjsimpso
Oct 3, 2006, 11:08 AM
Post #67 of 102
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I don't want you to think I've forgotten you. I've put the hold up (its a three-four half-pad) once, but only used it a small amount myself. I broke a toe two weeks ago at Rumney and haven't been climbing hard since. It did not break upon tightening. I haven't really pulled hard on it, but will be using it to set routes in a bouldering comp next weekend, and will have much more to report. Also, the toe is recovering, so I should be back on it soon.
Chris
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synrock
Oct 3, 2006, 9:32 PM
Post #68 of 102
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In reply to: syrock, Bolth sides of the "synrock" texture split in half and fell off.
Odd. What color was the glue? And if the synrock "fell out" was the glue attached to it or to the plastic?
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lambone
Oct 3, 2006, 10:00 PM
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synrock,
I am holding the hold in my hand now. The glue is grey and it is on both the plastic and synrock.
I was suprised when the synrock cracked because the bolt is tightening and applying preasure to the plastic, not the synrock, and the plastic is pretty thick at the bolt hole like 1/2 inch almost.
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synrock
Oct 4, 2006, 3:06 AM
Post #70 of 102
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In reply to: synrock, I am holding the hold in my hand now. The glue is grey and it is on both the plastic and synrock. I was suprised when the synrock cracked because the bolt is tightening and applying preasure to the plastic, not the synrock, and the plastic is pretty thick at the bolt hole like 1/2 inch almost.
Interesting. I don't know if the problem is that the poly is deforming too much and stressing the synrock when it moves - or if it is too stiff and not evening out the stress of bolt tightning on the synrock.
I haven't fractured any on any wood walls yet. I do have one cement textured wall they work well on but all the surfaces are convex which doesn't seem to break holds.
I think I may have a solution the problem and will send you some small ones and even smaller ones in a week.
If you would be so kind as to send me the hold I will send you a rather large two-handed sloper for you to try to break. You won't want to break it because it is cool, but I'm sure you will give it your best shot.
Jim Bowers
828 Elmwood st
State College, PA 16801
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synrock
Oct 4, 2006, 3:13 AM
Post #71 of 102
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In reply to: I don't want you to think I've forgotten you. I've put the hold up (its a three-four half-pad) once, but only used it a small amount myself. I broke a toe two weeks ago at Rumney and haven't been climbing hard since. It did not break upon tightening. I haven't really pulled hard on it, but will be using it to set routes in a bouldering comp next weekend, and will have much more to report. Also, the toe is recovering, so I should be back on it soon. Chris
I'll send you some more for the comp including some screw-ons. The screw-ons seem to be really bomber. I'm psyched about the new pico-pod since it's about half the thickness of smallest one I've sent out
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synrock
Oct 4, 2006, 3:25 AM
Post #72 of 102
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In reply to: The problem was that when I grabbed the hold it flexed. In other words, as I weighted the hold I could feel it compress. I'm pretty sure this compression is caused by the glue acting as a sort of suspension system between the texture and the plastic. I haven't noticed that others have had this problem - maybe I got a hold that had a lot of glue. Have others noticed this feeling of compression? I like to see how the larger holds handle and see if they have the same feel.
Very odd - can you tell me the color of the glue? The epoxy I am using shouldn't have any flex at all.
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socalbolter
Oct 4, 2006, 3:31 AM
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Jim -
I experienced a similar problem as what Lambone is describing. You had sent me two really cool pinches (size large ?) that I was psyched to climb on. When placing them on a flat, concrete wall, the synrock portion cracked (but stayed intact otherwise) and the poly section did not crack.
My guess was that the poly allows for a little flex and distortion (even if very minor) while the synrock (that is attached rigidly to it) does not.
Like most other posters here, I think the idea has merit and should be pursued to the extent that these problems no longer occur, but at this time there's still a little fine tuning to be done.
Not only does the synrock provide a comfortable gripping surface - the contrast between the two materials allows for a nice appearance to the part.
By the way, these bigger pinches are very nice. If you can remedy the cracking I would definitely be interested in getting more.
Thanks again for involving the climbing public in your R & D. Wish more companies did this type of thing.
- Louie
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cjsimpso
Oct 4, 2006, 5:21 AM
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Thats sweet man, I appreciate it.
I'll defintely let you know how it goes down
Chris
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lambone
Oct 4, 2006, 5:05 PM
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ok synrock, I'll send my cracked ones back asap.
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