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astone
Oct 12, 2006, 4:23 PM
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Paddle for 16 miles.
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clausti
Oct 12, 2006, 5:33 PM
Post #27 of 67
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In reply to: In reply to: Cardio. lose as much weight as you healthfully can. eat well. sleep enough. Add in "climb - often with devotion and vigor" and I think you have the basic recipe for sucess. (yes, I know that's essentially what you said in your first sentence). you're definitely right about climbing with devotion. but seriously, ppl do not pay enough attention to eating well and sleeping enough. you think you're going to be at peak performance if you're sleeping 4 hours a night and living on lattes? no way.
In reply to: Although I'm not advocating Cardio so much for weight loss, unless you're overweight or going for some professional climbing level I wouldn't worry. But cardio does increase your indurance, anerobic threshold and seems to make you more energetic all around. i didnt really separate the two, though i guess i could have been more clear. more specifically, i just meant do cardio for helping your endurance, and in addition to everying else, it really helps to be as close to ideal weight for your height as you can. you will get a lot more out of the power you already have if you weigh less. i personally feel like i have more energy for life in general when i'm doing cardio on a regular basis, even if some mornings it was like pulling teeth to drag myself out of bed and jog the equivalent of a couple ten minute miles on the elliptical machine.
In reply to: btw, Clausti, love your location. hmmm, *yes*, well.... my cane is pretty pimp. my TA in lab yesterday was like "got your house costume out a little early?" and i was like "actually the cane is for real but thanks for askin" ". she turned about 8 different shades of red.
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diophantus
Oct 12, 2006, 6:03 PM
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In reply to: for me, personally, i dont drink the night before i climb. just feel too unresponsive. Have you tried drinking while you climb? I hear beer goggles work on ratings too.
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fenderfour
Oct 12, 2006, 6:06 PM
Post #29 of 67
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Posts: 177
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Stop making excuses why you can't and start finding reasons why you will.
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fluxus
Oct 13, 2006, 4:22 PM
Post #30 of 67
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In reply to: I also bought the book and found it to be pretty useless, sorry. Its a bit of a threadjack but I gotta ask if you could provide some details as to how, why, or in what way the book is useless?
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notapplicable
Oct 13, 2006, 5:05 PM
Post #31 of 67
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In reply to: you're definitely right about climbing with devotion. but seriously, ppl do not pay enough attention to eating well and sleeping enough. you think you're going to be at peak performance if you're sleeping 4 hours a night and living on lattes? no way. True words. Good sleep and the proper fuel are the foundation for the whole day. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, I notice a big difference in the quality of my flailing when I get a solid 8 hours and have eggs or complex carbs for breakfast. The pastries and coffee are a recipe for an early pump, and your body will be playing catch up all day.
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csproul
Oct 13, 2006, 5:28 PM
Post #32 of 67
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In reply to: In reply to: I also bought the book and found it to be pretty useless, sorry. Its a bit of a threadjack but I gotta ask if you could provide some details as to how, why, or in what way the book is useless? Ha, see now, you have to be careful what you say...you never know who is listening in!
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krga20
Oct 17, 2006, 3:21 AM
Post #33 of 67
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 71
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It seems to me that one major component to becoming a better climber has been overlooked. In my experience, breathing is one, if not the most important aspect to getting stronger. Relax, breathe, watch your feet… Relax, breathe, watch your feet…repeat. Do this while climbing and you will improve greatly. Climb outside a lot, on all types of rock… heiko wrote: I also bought the book and found it to be pretty useless, sorry. I think this statement is a little harsh. There is a lot of very useful information in ‘The Self-Coached Climber’. My training routine was boring and repetitive; this led to a few seasons of burn out. Douglas Hunter’s book gave me some new ideas; it’s made a difference for sure.
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mitguy
Oct 17, 2006, 4:12 AM
Post #34 of 67
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Registered: Jan 22, 2006
Posts: 84
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I found the Self Coached Climber's focus on balance to be very helpful. Just being more aware of my balance has helped me climb with more efficiency. It's also given me a few new ideas for things to try when I'm stuck on a problem.
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kriso9tails
Oct 17, 2006, 4:47 AM
Post #35 of 67
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
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Some of you have some pretty weird approaches to getting stronger. I once licked Dave Graham when he wasn't looking (he didn't noticed) and I'm pretty sure I absorbed some of his super powers.
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ihuang
Oct 17, 2006, 4:59 AM
Post #36 of 67
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 194
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As far as passive gear goes, a good set of nuts, big ones, definitely helps.
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curt
Oct 17, 2006, 5:05 AM
Post #37 of 67
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In reply to: ...Climbing with others that are better than me. Watching what they do helps me to see ways to improve my technique... Yep. and...
In reply to: ...climbing with people who do it a lot better... Yep. Curt
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paganmonkeyboy
Oct 17, 2006, 5:17 AM
Post #38 of 67
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Posts: 663
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In reply to: It seems to me that one major component to becoming a better climber has been overlooked. In my experience, breathing is one, if not the most important aspect to getting stronger. Relax, breathe, watch your feet… Relax, breathe, watch your feet…repeat. Do this while climbing and you will improve greatly. Climb outside a lot, on all types of rock… big time. i think half the dings in my helmet are form looking at my feet while under roofs - i whap that plastic into rock constantly... i've also found that having a cute girl watching me has made me climb a grade or two higher, almost every time...some sort of special relativistic physics at work there...
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musicman1586
Oct 17, 2006, 5:21 AM
Post #39 of 67
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
Posts: 488
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Some of the things that have most improved my climbing eh? Well flagging was definitely one of them, as it was the first thing that opened my eyes to how important balance and body positioning are to climbing. The second thing that's improved my climbing the most has been to go back and do routes that I know very well in alot better style, trying to use as little energy as possible. Go to the gym sometime and try to climb easy routes without ever bending your arms once, you'll learn alot about how to be efficient with your body.
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csgambill
Oct 17, 2006, 5:27 AM
Post #40 of 67
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There's only one thing that comes to mind when I think about what has helped me climb harder. I'm 6'2" and the extra height means more weight to carry up the wall, so it's essential I cut every ounce possible. An hour or two before I hit a realy hard climb I down a whole bunch of laxatives. After 45 minutes or so all the extra, uh... retained weight, will be violently expelled from your system. You'll feel ten pounds lighter! Trust me, this is the key to nailing those hard sends!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 18, 2006, 1:35 PM
Post #41 of 67
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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In reply to: There's only one thing that comes to mind when I think about what has helped me climb harder. I'm 6'2" and the extra height means more weight to carry up the wall, so it's essential I cut every ounce possible. An hour or two before I hit a realy hard climb I down a whole bunch of laxatives. After 45 minutes or so all the extra, uh... retained weight, will be violently expelled from your system. You'll feel ten pounds lighter! Trust me, this is the key to nailing those hard sends! I'm alternating between thinking that this is a joke, and I should be laughing, or thinking that this isn't a joke, in which case I desperately need a turd to throw. You need laxatives to climb 5.9? :roll: Sorry if it is a joke, my sarcasm radar is still not tuned up well, despite having out at RC.com.
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robbovius
Oct 18, 2006, 3:15 PM
Post #42 of 67
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
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staying injury free, so that I can climb harder routes...unfortuntately, it hasn't worked so far...staying injury-free I mean.
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zuegma
Oct 18, 2006, 4:18 PM
Post #43 of 67
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Registered: May 9, 2006
Posts: 125
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Bouldering indoors has been a great help to me. it increased my finger strength and gave me confidence to pull sketchy moves while climbing. also taught me footwork skills and other minor details. since i really started bouldering i have moved up two grades lead and Tr 5.8-5.10 and 5.10-5.12 respectively.
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sidepull
Oct 19, 2006, 1:23 AM
Post #44 of 67
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
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2 words: BURT BRONSON
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alwaysclimbing07
Oct 19, 2006, 2:27 AM
Post #45 of 67
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Registered: May 1, 2006
Posts: 61
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squeeze toys. the blue donut made by black dimond works the best in my experiance. whenever im watching tv or sitting in school, ive always got the donut in one of my hands, and i only use it on my rest days, but its helped my hand strength dramaticly in the last few months. also crunches. you can never have too much core strength. also if u really wanna get strong then do what i did, and switch your pre climbing diet to strawberries and beefjerky 8^)
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anykineclimb
Oct 19, 2006, 5:38 AM
Post #46 of 67
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
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LOL I love it when people that do crunches for their "core" quit posing down in front of the mirror and realize that you core is more than your "6 pack"
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mingleefu
Oct 19, 2006, 7:13 AM
Post #47 of 67
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Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 466
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big aid to my climbing: working construction. I climb "off the couch" almost as strong as if I were climbing "regularly". Imagine if I actually trained for climbing. Ha! Key exercises: -don't ask for help with 4x8 sheets of durock. Instead: cowboy up. -figure out how to lift 80lb bag of concrete mix one-handed to shoulder while other shoulder holds second bag of concrete mix. -take steps two-at-a-time while carrying two bags of concrete. Also: -listen to Odub en route to/from work; form delusions of grandeur. -build general man-pride by driving manual transmission. -Think of work-related injuries as conditioning for climbing-associated suffering.
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rrrADAM
Oct 19, 2006, 8:35 AM
Post #48 of 67
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
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-Looking down, more than up... Feet are key. -Trying to emulate those who make it look easy... They have the best technique. -Hanging on straight arms... Pulling only when I'm ready to advance the feet. -Climbing outside my comfort level... Climb harder by climbing harder stuff. -Climbing a lot... Nothing beats practice, PERIOD !!!
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heiko
Oct 19, 2006, 10:05 AM
Post #49 of 67
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Posts: 1505
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In reply to: In reply to: I also bought the book and found it to be pretty useless, sorry. Its a bit of a threadjack but I gotta ask if you could provide some details as to how, why, or in what way the book is useless? :lol: just saw: RC.com tells me that my post is a "turd magnet"... interesting, I was just expressing my opinion: "I found the book useless" = "it didn't help me" = "it wasn't of any use to me" = ... I got it b/c it was appraised here on RC.com, and even though I'm just an intermediate-level climber, I simply didn't find it helpful. No offense, but I would list the things I picked up from the book had there been any. I opened the package, skimmed through the book, clicked through the DVD, nothing caught my attention, so I put everyting on the shelf and never touched it again. I will pass it on to someone else as a christmas present. One of Lynn Hill's terms is constantly on my mind when I climb and helps me more than any page of this book: "Vector Force". The book is well-made, attractive, the price is good especially b/c of the DVD and I'm totally convinced there are many ppl out there who can benefit a lot from it. I just didn't, no big deal. But again, this is my personal opinion guys, ok? end_of_hijack. Heiko
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moss1956
Oct 19, 2006, 1:20 PM
Post #50 of 67
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Posts: 213
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In reply to: -Looking down, more than up... Feet are key. -Trying to emulate those who make it look easy... They have the best technique. -Hanging on straight arms... Pulling only when I'm ready to advance the feet. -Climbing outside my comfort level... Climb harder by climbing harder stuff. -Climbing a lot... Nothing beats practice, PERIOD !!! This is the best I have seen. I would have put climbing a lot first though. In addition, each one of my injuries taught me how to be a better climber. My tendency was to get stronger rather than to get technically more proficient. That led to injuries to my hand, and my shoulder. These in turn forced me to rely more on my feet and controlling my balance rather than just pulling through, and made me a better climber. Then there are my injuries from gym climbing and being belayed badly. I learned that plastic is for kids, and to only climb near my limit with a tried and true belayer.
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