|
synrock
Oct 5, 2006, 4:07 PM
Post #76 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: Jim - By the way, these bigger pinches are very nice. If you can remedy the cracking I would definitely be interested in getting more. - Louie
Yeah I'm working on a solution - in the mean time you can fix the crack by heating the hold up and touching a small bit of epoxy to the area. The epoxy will suck into the crack and make for a very strong fix.
|
|
|
|
|
cjsimpso
Oct 5, 2006, 4:50 PM
Post #77 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 253
|
The holds you sent for my comp arrived. Rediculously sweet. I'm incredibly suped to get them on the wall. Thanks so much, and I'll have a swarm of user-reviews for you by the end of next week.
Thanks man!
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Oct 5, 2006, 6:21 PM
Post #78 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
synrock, could you post a picture of your double-handed sloper? I'd be interested in seeing that!
|
|
|
|
|
cjsimpso
Oct 7, 2006, 5:50 AM
Post #79 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 253
|
We haven't had our comp yet, but we've been including your holds in the routes we're setting, and they have been getting a bit of use. The two giant slopers you sent, (the single bolt and the screw-on) feel spectacular. A screw on giant sloper is a terrific idea, we had a big hole for the longest time, and now we've filled it perfectly. We're loving those two, even if the screw-on is pretty heinous. The rest of the holds are also pretty freaking sweet. The medium flat shelf is on a 20 degree overhang, making it pretty tempting for the n00bs, but it is spitting people off left and right. And many of the screw on feet (we haven't used them all yet) are terrific little crimps. I'm curious to see how they hold up to heavy traffic, but so far, so good!
|
|
|
|
|
mr-pink
Deleted
Oct 7, 2006, 7:29 AM
Post #80 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I got a small foothold, for a foothold it's great.
It's to small for a handhold, you can't make a move on this.
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 9, 2006, 3:56 PM
Post #81 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: We haven't had our comp yet, but we've been including your holds in the routes we're setting, and they have been getting a bit of use. The two giant slopers you sent, (the single bolt and the screw-on) feel spectacular. A screw on giant sloper is a terrific idea, we had a big hole for the longest time, and now we've filled it perfectly.
Yeah, I think I've been spending too much R&D time on the sidepods (Where the synrock portion is on the side of the hold). These are the most challanging to make bomproof on heavily textured walls although I think I've got a solution. I'll get some pieces out to those of you kind enough to have broken sidepod samples.
The center pods, because they are completely surrounded by plastic are bomber by nature as well as all the screw-ons. I have about half a dozen of those big screw-on features and I'll try to put some pics up soon so people know what I'm talking about.
Did I send you a petropod? The real piece of sandstone? I sent that to give you an idea of the sweet rock we get to climb on here in central pa.
|
|
|
|
|
ctardi
Oct 9, 2006, 5:19 PM
Post #82 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2004
Posts: 1278
|
In reply to: I got a small foothold, for a foothold it's great. It's to small for a handhold, you can't make a move on this.
I also got one of these, but I used it around a corner, and it works to about 30* for an easy crimp. :)
|
|
|
|
|
cjsimpso
Oct 11, 2006, 8:53 PM
Post #83 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 253
|
So far, everyone is loving them!
No cracking or breaking, although the slopers are getting slick with chalk and lots of use. Toothbrushes are a neccessity, I think.
Pictures and reviews will be coming soon.
We're doing another comp in December as our last hurrah before we move to a bigger space, how would you feel about having some discussions about you being a sponsor?
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 13, 2006, 4:03 PM
Post #84 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: So far, everyone is loving them! No cracking or breaking, although the slopers are getting slick with chalk and lots of use. Toothbrushes are a neccessity, I think.
The pods come with a factory acid etching. You can acid etch them more to further bring out the sand grains and make them even stickier.
http://www.synrockholds.com/acid.html
|
|
|
|
|
ctardi
Oct 15, 2006, 8:35 PM
Post #85 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2004
Posts: 1278
|
Well...someone really likes the hold...I can't find it!
Must be around there somewhere...
:(
|
|
|
|
|
powerhousebum
Oct 21, 2006, 6:44 AM
Post #86 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2005
Posts: 77
|
Red Rock Climbing Center
8201 W. Charleston
Las Vegas, NV 89117
Are you still sending out holds? Me and the other main setter are always looking for new holds to try out. Your holds look really sweat bro, hope everything works out for you. Good Luck.
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 23, 2006, 4:41 PM
Post #87 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: Red Rock Climbing Center 8201 W. Charleston Las Vegas, NV 89117 Are you still sending out holds? Me and the other main setter are always looking for new holds to try out. Your holds look really sweat bro, hope everything works out for you. Good Luck.
I've just finished making a new batch of small pods that have some inovations that should make them unbreakable (hopefully). I'll try to get some samples out there to people with highly textured walls to see how this batch works.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Oct 25, 2006, 12:43 AM
Post #88 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
we need more product pics (and "in-use" pics) in this thread stat!
Also, has anyone else experienced hold flex with these guys? In other words, the glue compresses when the hold is weighted?
Thanks!
Now pics :!:
|
|
|
|
|
ltj999
Oct 25, 2006, 2:35 AM
Post #89 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2006
Posts: 57
|
I work at my school's rock wall and we would be happy to get you some feed back from both the belayers and the people comming in.
Michael Magenheimer
Ithaca College 953 Danby Road
Emerson 351
Ithaca NY 14850
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 25, 2006, 6:22 AM
Post #90 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: we need more product pics (and "in-use" pics) in this thread stat! Also, has anyone else experienced hold flex with these guys? In other words, the glue compresses when the hold is weighted? Thanks! Now pics :!:
Hey I think I may have found that problem - a few pods were made with way too soft polyurethane - check to see if the plastic itself flexes.
|
|
|
|
|
cjsimpso
Oct 25, 2006, 7:03 AM
Post #91 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 253
|
The beginnings of my review process:
The holds are great!
We received two large slopers (one screw-on with plastic all around, and one giant pod with texture on one side). We also have a big squarish hold with two sloping pinch surfaces embedded in it. There are also a variety of smaller pinches and crimps, from two-pad right on down to half-pad and even less. Many of these are only foot chips for a lot of our climbers. There was also a miniature crack-type crimp, and a very shallow and slopey two/three finger pocket. Almost everything was up for the comp, and everything is on the wall now. (The only things that didn't get up for the comp were the shallow pocket and a few of the jibs).
Reviews:
General consensus is that they are a terrific addition to our collection, and the texture manages to provide comfort and challenge, without being painful to grip, even in the smallest holds.
Our major complaint is that the texture holds shoe rubber/chalk/grease really well, and doesn't brush all that clean. Because we don't have any acid laying around :shock: , we haven't tried that method of cleaning them yet, so I don't have anything to report on that front.
A few people think they look pretty bad, but I don't think that is particularly relevant to their usefulness. It can't hurt to tell you, I suppose.
We've had no cracking or splitting issues what so ever, although we have been very careful on that front. I suppose I could really crank down on one to see what happens, but I'll probably just strip a Tnut, since our wall is ancient and decrepit.
The giant slopers are immensely popular. Assuming the acid trick works out (they are the ones that are losing texture the fastest), we would certainly be interested in getting more.
The finger crack is a brilliant idea. In addition to forcing accurate placements and careful loading, it also makes for some insanely tricky footwork, especially on an overhanging surface. I'd love to get some more of these, especially if you can develop them in a variety of sizes.
I'd also like to see some of the crimps get a little more inclined, since even the smallest ones are pretty positive and easy to grip. Of course, some of our newer climbers don't really agree.
Actually, a lot of our newer climbers felt like none of your holds were very accessible to them. Of course, that isn't necessarily a problem, and may also be a function of where/how they were placed.
The giant pinch is a terrific hold. You've got no alternative way of gripping it, so you've got to just clamp down and pull hard. A series of these with different angles and sizes would be terrific for training.
All in all, I was enormously impressed by the set you sent me, and terrifically grateful as well. The fact that you volunteered to overnight me a dozen of your holds for free is very impressive, and you've earned a handful of hard-core supporters.
I'd like to see if there is a way to prevent these holds from greasing up so rapidly, or I'd at least like to see you come up with a convenient way of cleaning them (do I see a line of brush-on-acid-based-cleansers in your future?) But all in all, I have been terrifically happy, and will put your name out there at every gym I visit.
I will have more information and reviews coming in the next week or two, as well as photos. I hope this helps, and please don't hesitate to request any specific information that might guide you in making more improvements.
More to follow later,
Chris
|
|
|
|
|
cjsimpso
Oct 25, 2006, 7:05 AM
Post #92 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 253
|
The beginnings of my review process:
The holds are great!
We received two large slopers (one screw-on with plastic all around, and one giant pod with texture on one side). We also have a big squarish hold with two sloping pinch surfaces embedded in it. There are also a variety of smaller pinches and crimps, from two-pad right on down to half-pad and even less. Many of these are only foot chips for a lot of our climbers. There was also a miniature crack-type crimp, and a very shallow and slopey two/three finger pocket. Almost everything was up for the comp, and everything is on the wall now. (The only things that didn't get up for the comp were the shallow pocket and a few of the jibs).
Reviews:
General consensus is that they are a terrific addition to our collection, and the texture manages to provide comfort and challenge, without being painful to grip, even in the smallest holds.
Our major complaint is that the texture holds shoe rubber/chalk/grease really well, and doesn't brush all that clean. Because we don't have any acid laying around :shock: , we haven't tried that method of cleaning them yet, so I don't have anything to report on that front.
A few people think they look pretty bad, but I don't think that is particularly relevant to their usefulness. It can't hurt to tell you, I suppose.
We've had no cracking or splitting issues what so ever, although we have been very careful on that front. I suppose I could really crank down on one to see what happens, but I'll probably just strip a Tnut, since our wall is ancient and decrepit.
The giant slopers are immensely popular. Assuming the acid trick works out (they are the ones that are losing texture the fastest), we would certainly be interested in getting more.
The finger crack is a brilliant idea. In addition to forcing accurate placements and careful loading, it also makes for some insanely tricky footwork, especially on an overhanging surface. I'd love to get some more of these, especially if you can develop them in a variety of sizes.
I'd also like to see some of the crimps get a little more inclined, since even the smallest ones are pretty positive and easy to grip. Of course, some of our newer climbers don't really agree.
Actually, a lot of our newer climbers felt like none of your holds were very accessible to them. Of course, that isn't necessarily a problem, and may also be a function of where/how they were placed.
The giant pinch is a terrific hold. You've got no alternative way of gripping it, so you've got to just clamp down and pull hard. A series of these with different angles and sizes would be terrific for training.
All in all, I was enormously impressed by the set you sent me, and terrifically grateful as well. The fact that you volunteered to overnight me a dozen of your holds for free is very impressive, and you've earned a handful of hard-core supporters.
I'd like to see if there is a way to prevent these holds from greasing up so rapidly, or I'd at least like to see you come up with a convenient way of cleaning them (do I see a line of brush-on-acid-based-cleansers in your future?) But all in all, I have been terrifically happy, and will put your name out there at every gym I visit.
I will have more information and reviews coming in the next week or two, as well as photos. I hope this helps, and please don't hesitate to request any specific information that might guide you in making more improvements.
More to follow later,
Chris
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 25, 2006, 4:40 PM
Post #93 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
Thanks so much for your feedback - I just wish I had the time to work on all the things you suggested - Actually I am working on making all the pods you suggested (I'm planning a whole series of "crackpods") I just wish I could have them right now. This pod approach is a bit more complicated than just making a shape and then a mold and it takes a lot of R&D time.
Feedback like this is very welcome because it helps me focus on holds that people like.
You really should try the acid etching thing. Because the synrock binder is only slightly acid soluable it takes a few soakings and brushings to dissolve the surface matrix away and make the sand grains stand up proud to the surface. But the results are spectacular. You end up with actual sandstone or gritstone.
The acid is muriatic acid (hcl) you can get at lowes or home depot for around $3 a gallon and is fairly safe (just don't get it in your eyes).
If I had the time I'd ship every hold from the factory with a perfect etching - but that's less time spend developing pods.
|
|
|
|
|
cjsimpso
Oct 25, 2006, 7:28 PM
Post #94 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 253
|
In reply to: This pod approach is a bit more complicated than just making a shape and then a mold and it takes a lot of R&D time.
I am curious as to what exactly you consider a "pod". Is it a semi-circle of plastic with synrock attached? As such, are some of the things you sent me "mono-pods" where others are "bi-podular" and even "tri-pods?" Or is a "pod" more like circle of plastic with the synrock on the inside, like the screw on sloper? To help everyone in this thread understand what we're talking about, could you post pictures of a few of your holds and label the different components, so we can all be on the same page?
I will try the etching in the coming week, and give you some feedback on that. Do you have any other things you would like me to try/test in terms of offering feedback? A few of my gym's regulars will be posting up here soon, too. And pictures will come when I have time to navigate the uploading process.
Thanks, and keep in touch,
Chris
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 26, 2006, 4:11 PM
Post #95 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
pods are the plastic part - a pod holds something and it is the plastic pod's job to hold the synrock grip area.
there are 2 main types of pods, center pods and side pods. From there the nomenclature gets a little complicated. I'll work on getting some photos up to illustrate.
|
|
|
|
|
ltj999
Oct 26, 2006, 4:41 PM
Post #96 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2006
Posts: 57
|
are you still sending out beta tesing holds?
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Oct 27, 2006, 4:53 AM
Post #97 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
What do you got?
|
|
|
|
|
ltj999
Oct 27, 2006, 7:27 PM
Post #98 of 102
(8295 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2006
Posts: 57
|
umm idunno what you mean...but i can send you pics and a review of it when i put it up on my schools wall...
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Nov 29, 2006, 8:09 PM
Post #99 of 102
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
[quote "synrock"][quote]we need more product pics (and "in-use" pics) in this thread stat!
Also, has anyone else experienced hold flex with these guys? In other words, the glue compresses when the hold is weighted?
Thanks!
Now pics :!:[/quote]
That sounds right - the plastic isn't flexing.
Hey I think I may have found that problem - a few pods were made with way too soft polyurethane - check to see if the plastic itself flexes.[/quote]
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Jan 29, 2007, 5:25 PM
Post #100 of 102
(2728 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
Hey lambone - let me know how those new and improved small rockpod crimps work out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
