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shear
Nov 30, 2006, 12:51 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2004
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So I took the last 5 months off from bouldering and only roped up the entire summer. I got considerably strong route climbing...sent a lot of projects and developed (what i feel is) some great static strength. Now it's bouldering season and the last month and a half ive been only bouldering. I've sent a few projects that i had last year, but they are in the same grade range i was previously in.
im feeling like im at a stand still. i dont wanna post any grade spray because i feel its a moot point. but i feel im a strong boulder...i just need to figure out how to jump to that next level. my only caveat is that i dont wanna jeopardize the limited # of great days outside New England has to offer.
im not gonna get too caught up "training" right now...i wanna enjoy the amazing weather that we get for a few days.
but what are somethings i can do or think about doing to attempt to hit that next level?
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microbarn
Nov 30, 2006, 2:37 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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rest for an extended time (yea, I know you won't like that)
go back and do other bouldering problems under your max level more efficiently.
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krusher4
Nov 30, 2006, 3:37 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
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There is a point in climbing where if you want to get stronger the only way is to give up your life and train. It just comes down to how much you love it and what you have to do to feed the beast.
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organic
Nov 30, 2006, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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shear wrote: So I took the last 5 months off from bouldering and only roped up the entire summer. I got considerably strong route climbing...sent a lot of projects and developed (what i feel is) some great static strength. Now it's bouldering season and the last month and a half ive been only bouldering. I've sent a few projects that i had last year, but they are in the same grade range i was previously in. im feeling like im at a stand still. i dont wanna post any grade spray because i feel its a moot point. but i feel im a strong boulder...i just need to figure out how to jump to that next level. my only caveat is that i dont wanna jeopardize the limited # of great days outside New England has to offer. im not gonna get too caught up "training" right now...i wanna enjoy the amazing weather that we get for a few days. but what are somethings i can do or think about doing to attempt to hit that next level?
I have hit this same plateau before and it seems sadly the only way to break through, is to train. Identify your weaknesses, mine were lock-off strength and pinch strength. both are very easy to train and took little time out of my climbing schedule. Rainy days are especially good for training such as this.
Like someone else says, it all depends on how important improving is to you.
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shear
Nov 30, 2006, 4:11 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2004
Posts: 350
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crimping is my weakness. anything i can get openhanded, i do. locking off is also a weakness.
so i should go to the gym and set crimpy lockoff problems?
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sidepull
Nov 30, 2006, 4:54 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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4x4's
spend two days a week working really intense 4x4's (read repeating your hard problems four times in a row). For instance, do this on Monday and Wednesday. Then spend Friday and Saturday projecting. Repeat the next week.
Also, when working projects, get a strong crew together so that they can help figure out beta and provide dynamic spots to help you work moves without getting too fatigued. good luck and remember that you can enjoy training - everytime you go out doesn't require you sending a new problem or setting a new personal standard. Learn to enjoy the process.
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fluxus
Nov 30, 2006, 8:11 PM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2003
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Broaden your base, a plateau can develop because the climber has been going after higher numbers at the expense broad experience at each grade. So starting at your current bouldering on-sight level start doing workouts called Continuous Intensity Repetitions (C.I.R.) which consists of 10 - 15 reps at a specific grade in one workout. Rest as long as you need between problems. This means that if your current on-sight level is V3 your goal to complete 10 - 15 V3's in a workout, then as that becomes comfortable (in 2 - 4 sessions) you want to raise the intensity so you would slit your problems between V3 and V4 for several workouts until you could do all V4s, and so on. Doing this concentrates a high volume of submaximam climbing in a short period of time and realy develops both movement and fitness rapidly if you can do it consistently.
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beckerw
Dec 2, 2006, 11:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2002
Posts: 171
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I think you had figured it out this summer. i am personally not a fan of training (unless that means more climbing).
i personally broke through a barrier this summer. i found only climbing at one area helped. chose a problem you can do all the moves on but have a hard time linking. now work the bejeezus out of that problem. it is good to find 2-4 problems of similar difficulty for you. that way when you get psychologically frail you can switch problems. i sent two of my hardest problems this summer this way.
good luck
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collegekid
Dec 10, 2006, 10:46 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: Jul 7, 2002
Posts: 1852
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shear wrote: So I took the last 5 months off from bouldering and only roped up the entire summer. I got considerably strong route climbing...sent a lot of projects and developed (what i feel is) some great static strength. Now it's bouldering season and the last month and a half ive been only bouldering. I've sent a few projects that i had last year, but they are in the same grade range i was previously in. im feeling like im at a stand still. i dont wanna post any grade spray because i feel its a moot point. but i feel im a strong boulder...i just need to figure out how to jump to that next level. my only caveat is that i dont wanna jeopardize the limited # of great days outside New England has to offer. im not gonna get too caught up "training" right now...i wanna enjoy the amazing weather that we get for a few days. but what are somethings i can do or think about doing to attempt to hit that next level?
Already a lot of good suggestions, so I'll add in...
Perhaps add a couple of 20 -30 minute hang board workouts per week (not on rest days). The way I see it, the hang board not only improves your strength, but gives you a method of watching your progress that is completely objective. I.e. if you hit the crag one day and feel unmotivated, or not in the mood to push yourself, come back home afterwards and hit the board.
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