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wanlessrm
Mar 1, 2007, 4:35 PM
Post #26 of 41
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Registered: Jul 29, 2002
Posts: 333
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Learn the Monkeys Paw and you'll always have the right gear for any size crack!
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markc
Mar 1, 2007, 4:36 PM
Post #27 of 41
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
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Dingus, you reminded me of the time my twin and I ran away from home. While we were defiant enough to run away, we didn't have the nerve to cross the street without permission. We took a big bag of popcorn and a few toys and played on the sidewalk just around the corner. We eventually decided to go home, only to realize no one knew we'd run away.
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dingus
Mar 1, 2007, 4:52 PM
Post #28 of 41
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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markc
When I was 10 I decided to hit the trail. I gathered the gear I had... army pup tent, sleeping bag and the cheap aluminum frame backpack I got at Rockaway Sales somewhere in NE New Jersey. Headed off into the woods and made camp in a big stand of pines near the woods road where we went sledding every winter.
After sitting in camp for a while it dawned on me I had no food. And I'd already started one wild fire so I couldn't summon the nerve to try a camp fire.
Back to the house I went, probably a 1/4 or a 1/2 mile away.
My pop had a pop-up camper and in it was a propane stove bolted to a counter top. I caved into it, debolted the stove and slid it out.
I was in the process of stealing some Campbell's Beef Soup (always loved that beef soup with those little oat thingies in it) out of my mom's cupboard when my eldest sister Christine caught me.
"What are you doing?"
My lies were insufficient as a can of soup was sticking from my pocket. "What is that, SOUP???!!!"
Slowly she interrogated the truth out of me... I was running away but came back for food, haha.
Know what my big sis did? She had me put the soup back, she helped me bolt the stove back in the camper, then we hiked to the pine grove and broke camp. She even carried the back pack for me!
So we put all the stuff back and so far as I know, Christine NEVER told my parents I'd run away that day.
That was the first time. I got much farther on subsequent attempts.
Cheers
DMT
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moof
Mar 1, 2007, 7:01 PM
Post #29 of 41
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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Done!
Well not really. The problem is that you can never be complete. There will always be some oddball route you run into that call for 4 pink tricams, or want to aid some monster that requires a pile of knifeblades, etc whatever.
Once you have a good base of nuts, small to largish cams, go out and climb. As you find yourself scared away from routes due to lack of gear, buy what you need. A few years back I wanted to jump on Double Cross. The night before I hit the store and grabbed an extra #3 and #3.5 friend so I would have a total of 6 pieces in the #2-#3 camalot range. I plugged everyone of them into that 80' pumpfest.
I since bootied another #2 camalot, and now have 5 pieces of that size. Sure enough, an aid route I want to do calls for about 5 as a minimum. Sheesh.
(This post was edited by moof on Mar 1, 2007, 7:09 PM)
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cracklover
Mar 1, 2007, 7:30 PM
Post #30 of 41
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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You've gotta be kidding, right? To climb anywhere in the country (again aside from splitterville) you need: 8 cams, 1.5 sets of nuts, two or three tricams, and either a few doubles in mid-size cams or a half set of hexes.
That's it. Why you'd think your rack is not up to snuff is completely beyond me. Though if you really want to spend more, you could pick up a couple ballnutz and/or rps. They're light, and, especially on harder climbs, it's sometimes that or nothing.
To become an all around climber, you need to climb all around.
I dare you to go on a long road trip. Climb all over the place. Have a blast. And just try to haul that whole rack of yours up all your climbs, and do it over and over again for weeks. You'll quickly learn that less is more.
GO
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cracklover
Mar 1, 2007, 7:34 PM
Post #31 of 41
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Actually, with the exception of some hooks and smaller gear, you've got a pretty sweet aid rack there, buddy. Bigger than mine.
Sheesh.
GO
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8flood8
Mar 1, 2007, 7:42 PM
Post #32 of 41
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
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heheh
so are you calling me a gear whore?
i must admit to the charges.
I definitely agree i am not going to be carrying every piece up every route.
I was asking for opinions on how close to "complete" everyone else thinks this rack is. To me, the responses have told me pretty much what i have been thinking to myself.
my rack is mostly complete... its time to climb! hehe
i'll probably buy a c4 #5 and a #6 and then climb until i find that i "NEED" another piece of gear.
Thanks again for the discussions!
So here is my plan... i'm gonna dog my way up every 8 in sight and then start aiding harder shit until i can climb it :)
thanks again !!
ROCK ON
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moof
Mar 1, 2007, 8:31 PM
Post #33 of 41
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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I'd hold off on the #6 till you really have a route to go with it. My #5 finds lots of use, but the #6 has probably averaged about 2 pitches a year that it was placed on, and I'm a bit of a chimney hor.
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hosh
Mar 1, 2007, 9:48 PM
Post #34 of 41
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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I'm no doctor, but I think you may all be suffering from "Dysphoric Social Attention Consumption Deficit Anxiety Disorder." This condition (DSACDAD) May be treated, but it may require medication. But there's hepl! http://www.havidol may be able to offer some hope for us all...
hosh.
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dr_feelgood
Mar 1, 2007, 10:45 PM
Post #35 of 41
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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I've got most of you out gearwhored...
suckers
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nedsurf
Mar 1, 2007, 10:57 PM
Post #36 of 41
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Registered: Nov 9, 2004
Posts: 387
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Tyler Durden: F*** off with your sofa units and strine green stripe patterns, I say never be complete, I say stop being perfect, I say let... lets evolve, let the chips fall where they may.
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8flood8
Mar 5, 2007, 9:19 AM
Post #38 of 41
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
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there is a climb at enchanted rock, called jackknife (2nd pitch is cave crack) that takes the number 6. it will get used, but what i didn't mention
i've been selling my first rack off to buy newer cooler toys.
so its not like i'm digging deep. I like climbing and i like gear. it doesnt just stop at cams :P
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dr_feelgood
Mar 5, 2007, 1:58 PM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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8flood8 wrote: there is a climb at enchanted rock, called jackknife (2nd pitch is cave crack) that takes the number 6. it will get used, but what i didn't mention i've been selling my first rack off to buy newer cooler toys. so its not like i'm digging deep. I like climbing and i like gear. it doesnt just stop at cams :P
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sky7high
Mar 5, 2007, 6:13 PM
Post #40 of 41
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Registered: Feb 15, 2006
Posts: 478
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If you wanted your rack to bew complete, you would need to know all the routes in the US and the specific pieces they will take, since that's not possible, I'd say I would go climbing with your rack anytime, Actually, there's routes that only require a set of stoppers, unless of course you are planning to do some aid climbing.
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8flood8
Mar 8, 2007, 7:30 AM
Post #41 of 41
(981 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
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inevitably
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