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aphazia
Apr 26, 2007, 5:29 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2006
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Looking to head outdoors with my girlie. She's a 5.5 gym climber working 5.6s, I'm a 5.6+/5.7- gym climber.
I want to get outdoors, and am planning to get instruction on building good anchors prior to heading out.
Once we're out, I assume we should be looking for some 5.2 - 5.4 climbing that can be top-roped.
Any recommendations? Will I have top access to set up a TR on any good starter climbs? Or will I need to ask a friendly lead climber politely to drag something up with them for me? ;)
Also, any recommendations on what gear to get for toproping the Gunks? Slings and locking biners are a given. Is it more sensible to get static rope for toproping, or just get dynamic rope so that I have it for when I transition to starting to climb trad?
Any and all assistance is most appreciated. I can't wait to be leading and enjoying all the Gunks has to offer, but hey, baby steps, no? :)
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curt
Apr 26, 2007, 5:41 AM
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Squiggles and Boston come to mind. Both are 5.4 (I think) and can be easily top-roped. I'm sure there are others, too. Have fun, the Gunks are fantastic.
Curt
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Adk
Apr 26, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Curt gave you a couple and there are others yet right now I am at a loss.
Hopefully I'll get to dig my book out to stur my memory.
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Adk
Apr 26, 2007, 10:09 PM
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Here's another. Ken's Crack. I'll think of more. I hope.
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rocknice2
Apr 26, 2007, 10:13 PM
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Your top roping so you can go to your limit then try to go beyond.
Oh ya your going to the Gunks. 5.4 might just = 5.6 in the gym.
Can't think off any climbs off hand but The Gunks rock.
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aphazia
Apr 26, 2007, 10:16 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2006
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Yeah, that was sort of my line of thinking. Plus being accustomed to taped off gym routes, stepping it down a little the first times we're outdoors certainly wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Anyone? Any help? :)
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devkrev
Apr 26, 2007, 10:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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Adk wrote: Here's another. Ken's Crack. I'll think of more. I hope.
Yeah, Kens Crack definitely fits the OPs request for easily top-roped 5.2-5.4 climbing 
Um...I would head down to the Guides Wall, if you know how to set good gear anchors, you can get the first pitch of northern pillar, Fingerlocks or Cinderbox(5.5 but really great) and Twin Oaks(5.3). To get up there though, you would have to scramble up the gully next to the MG buttress, so if you aren't solid with that, ignore me, cause i don't know what I am talking about.
You could also throw a rope down on Easy Keyhole(5.2++), but its sort of a hike to get to the top. Right there you have some 5.5 that i can't remember as well.
Your options would be greatly increased if you brought a ropegun with you.
dev
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boymeetsrock
Apr 26, 2007, 10:27 PM
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There is an abundance of moderate climbing at the Gunks. Kep in mind, though that many of the climbs whent up when there was no such thing as 5.7. So anything harder than 5.5, was just called 5.6.
Wall up TR's abound as well. Standard TR gear should include something like these:
- 2-4 lockers & 4 non-lockers
- at least two long slings, and perhaps a 20-25 foot length of webing, for the random long anchor.
- Rope.
When you get into it more, some trad protection will help, as few of the climbs at the Gunks have bolts. Some climbs do have bolts and others have fixed gear. Used fixed gear at your own risk, some of it is from the 50's. You'll be able to tell what is good or bad, basically if you question it, don't trust it.
Oh yeah and Ken's Crack is 5.7+. Check out the uber fall and generally the first few hundred yards of the Traps. THere are many walk ups, some 4th class some 3rd. And there is an EMS 5 min from the crag in Gardner, NY.
Enjoy.
-Boy
Edit to add: Check out Peterskill, Easy TR's there.
(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Apr 26, 2007, 10:31 PM)
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aphazia
Apr 26, 2007, 10:38 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2006
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Thanks for all the input thus far guys... keep it coming! :) Knowing more than I need to is always a good thing.
Also - static vs. dynamic rope for TRing?
And re: Peterskill... Does the Williams guide have some info on it? Nothing to speak of in the Swain guide. I'll have to dig around online some more...
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rocknice2
Apr 26, 2007, 10:54 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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Static is definitely better for TR especially if it's a tall one. On a 25 meter TR a fall from less than 15 ft or so will have you touch the ground not hard but.... your girl slap you. Or worse quit.
If you feel as though you will not lead for many years to come or not at all then go for a static. If you plan on leading in the future go dynamic.
As for your gear questions. Get instruction first from a qualified instructor and most of what you ask will be answered.
PS it's annoying to see two threads on the same topic. Unless you have two girlfriends 
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misanthropic_nihilist
Apr 26, 2007, 11:20 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2005
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It sounds like everyone is recommending climbs for you at the Trapps. If you're just top roping, you should definitely head to Peterskill. It's 2 minutes away, half the price ($7 instead of $15), and is much better suited for TRing. You can pick up a guide book for it at Rock & Snow in New Paltz.
As far a gear: my favorite for setting up TRs at Peterskills is a 40' length of static rope for anchors. It's usually long enough to reach from a huge tree or rock over the edge, otherwise it's plenty long enough to equalize gear. Just remember to not anchor to any Pitch Pines.
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jtr109
Apr 27, 2007, 12:12 AM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2005
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I think Gunks.com has an article on climbs that are easy to set up for top rope. The top of Black Fly is reachable by a scramble to the climber's right which branches back to the left over the big Black Fly tree. So is No Picnic, via same approach trail, branching to the right. The top of the Herdie Gerdie block is accessed via a scramble up the left rear of the block. HG may be a bit stiffer than you may be used to and the tree on top is a bit less reassuring. I usually sling the big boulder with long webbing. Black Fly only requires a cordalette and lockers to anchor off the tree.
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