May 23, 2007, 12:05 AM
Post #51 of 81
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Re: [lemon_boy] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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lemon_boy wrote:
john,
i ran into a guy who climbed with you for a weekend this spring and he saie that you onsighted ruby's, is that true? if so, fck an a, nice work!
I can't claim that. I did climb it with one fall 2 times that day, but didn't redpoint it. I'm pretty sure I could come back and send it, I just avoid battle of the bulge when in ic. I did onsight Quarter of a Man that day, maybe he was confusing the two.
May 23, 2007, 12:42 AM
Post #53 of 81
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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When I started leading trad 5.8-5.9ish stuff I had a rack of nuts and 2 pink and two red tricams
For a long pitch up to 12 cams and a rack of stoppers
Most of the time I size up the climb, Ditch the cams and stoppers I don't think I will need and climb.
for example on a 11c, 20meter fingercrack I sized it up. Racked 6 or so stoppers individually on quickdraws plus about 8 cams. 15 pieces!!! If that was a sport it would be a bolt ladder!!!
It was super well protected!! why carry more crap?
Another little 15m 11a fingercrack that I done many times I rack up w/ 2 stoppers #4 & #6 on draws two cams A #1 TCU an .5 camalot Its very well protected.
There is no point taking gear you know you will not/can not use. ( When cragging)
Rack smart
oh, as for R rated routes I avoid them!! This 15m 10d/11a route was protected by a poor tcu and a bolt Thankfully the only crux was at the bolt! but still... R = not pro
May 23, 2007, 1:54 AM
Post #55 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level about 5.8-5.9 now.
Hardest trad lead 12b.
typical pitch 80-100 feet around here. Gotta travel for the bigger stuff.
Gear: Around here (niagara escarpment) I'll carry two half sets of nuts (starting at about BD6 or rock 1ish maybe?) and anywhere from 6-10 cams depending on the route, usually in the .5 to 2 inch range, but sometimes up to 4 inches at fraggle. 3 or 4 tricams (sizes vary depending on route) sometimes some hexes, sometimes ballnuts, sometimes a bag of rocks if I'm feeling oldschool. buncha slings, buncha biners, buncha chalk.
I try to carry less than two dozen pieces usually, but if it's a route that's really giving me issues I'll take about 80 pieces and some aiders and show it whats what.
Largest rack I've ever seriously carried: 2 sets of nuts, 1 set micronuts, 1.5 sets of ballnuts, double cams from .5 to 4 inches, half set of tricams, set of cowbells. I was treading into unknown territory (for me anyways) in yosemite and actually used 95% of what I brought. Probably would have been 100% had I brought more water (I had to bail ).
May 23, 2007, 12:42 PM
Post #57 of 81
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Re: [cracklover] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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cracklover wrote:
...
So what the fuck do I know.
GO
Your experience mirrors mine pretty closely. I placed more nuts in RR than anyplace else I've ever climbed. As for your perfect small-cam placements... God I love the NRG.
May 23, 2007, 1:02 PM
Post #59 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Around 2 dozen pieces, thou I do bring doubles.
General level of leading trad: 5.7-5.8
Hardest trad lead: 5.9 (I think)
Typical length of pitches in your area: 20 m
Gear: Standard rack: Wallnuts 1-10, doubles 3-6 = 14pieces Aliens Yellow and Red Friends #2.5 and #3
Hmm, that's only 18 pieces. Should I change my answer?
Extra gear that i bring on occassion: Green Alien Friends #2 and #4 Camalot Gold #2 and Red #4.5 Camp hexes size 5-8 HB Offset brassies (micronuts) size 3-6
May 23, 2007, 1:18 PM
Post #60 of 81
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Re: [cracklover] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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cracklover wrote:
Y'all carry a lot of cams! Guess it depends on where you climb, but in most places, unless the crack is wide, I find I like to carry lots of nuts and fewer cams.
Same here. I'd like to buy some more cams this season, but ka-ching!
And Cathedral takes nuts like crazy, so I've never really needed lots of cams. Or if i did, I'd borrow from partners.
Lead 5.7-8
Hardest 5.10a
Rack 3 Trango tcus, 4 Metolius powercams 1 set of nuts with some doubling/tripling in key sizes. Probably 2 sets total
Pink tricam! A few more depending on the route
8 slings doubled as draws, maybe a few sport draws if the pitch is long.
Quad for bolts, equallete for natural anchors.
Funny how it feels like a hell of a lot more
That's a good idea about preslining cams long, J_ung, i might have to do that......
May 23, 2007, 3:02 PM
Post #61 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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Totally new to this but here goes anyway - General level of leading trad: Gee - was that a 5.6 at the slips Peter?
Hardest trad lead: 5.6? (Guessing, it is not listed.
Typical length of pitches in your area: I haven't figured that out yet but have done up to a 300ft 3 pitch once, following. (Stoerts wall)
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: 1 set of BD nuts, 1 set of BD micro nuts, 1 set of BD Hexes. the set of 4 CAMP tri-cams and 1 ea of camalots .5, .75 1 and 2. And all my trad draws (9?) Like I said, just starting out and have only led 2 trad climbs and both of those were very easy climbs. It was all about learning gear placement but I am loving every minute of it and can't wait for more!
May 23, 2007, 6:11 PM
Post #62 of 81
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Re: [barefoot_utah] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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barefoot_utah wrote:
Totally new to this but here goes anyway - General level of leading trad: Gee - was that a 5.6 at the slips Peter?
Thomas- Yay! You haven't been flamed on this thread yet! Yeah, I'm sure the 2 that you've done have both been 5.6, and fun ones to boot! And there's more where that came from :D We'll have to get out next week too.
May 23, 2007, 6:20 PM
Post #63 of 81
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Re: [angry] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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angry wrote:
Sorry to split hairs, I just can't consider a route R/X based solely on poor rack choice or poverty.
Heh, actually, I think we're saying the same thing :D
If I followed a partner up an easy section, say, 30' of not putting gear in a very protectable yet easy section, I wouldn't call the route run out, but I might say to him at the top, "dude, you ran that out!" or "nice free-solo-looking-at-a-ground-fall-if-you-slipped-even-though-it-was-easy!".
You're right, the route isn't rated R or X. But if someone only places one piece in 70' of climbing, I'd say they are climbing it run-out or free-solo style. I do this sort of thing myself sometimes, just like you. Sometimes it's better to do it for rope drag, super-easy terrain, whatever. But I'm still "running it out" between pieces; that's all I'm saying. Some people take a rack that's small that feeds that type of style of climbing.
May 27, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #64 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad:
5.8 - 5.10
Hardest trad lead:
5.12a
Typical length of pitches in your area:
30 feet to 60m multi-pitch climbs up to 3000+ feet long.
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack:
Backcountry where I'm well below my limit: single set of stoppers, single set cams from green/yellow alien hybrid to #3.5 Friend size, #5 and #6 tricams, Rockcentrics from #3 to #8.
Otherwise, it depends. Bolt kit, Valley Giants, Ball Nutz, pins, Big Bros, slung horns, hooks... its all good.
Jun 7, 2007, 5:50 PM
Post #66 of 81
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Re: [binrat] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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hmmmm i'll bite
general trad lead level: montana~ 5.9 wyo~ 5.4 (at our local crag there is not alot of higher end easy trad) hardest trad lead: 5.11 (once upon a time) typical length: 25-30 meters, quite a bit of multi pitch gear: i have faaarrrr too many nuts. but i got them very cheap, and am not concerned if i lose one. 4 hexes, in the larger sizes, some micros (from the aid days) a rack of stoppers, and five cams, 2 forged friends, 2 camalots, 1 trango flexcam.
I have always climbed with friends though, most who have 3 or sometimes 4 full racks of cams, nuts, stoppers, the whole nine yards. this is the summer to build up the trad rack, though. where i am at now, i have a tendency to take most of it with me, even on the easier stuff, mostly because i want the option of sewing something up, rather than not having the option. i have no problem showing up to anchors with even 3/4s of my gear left on my harness. i have a tendency to run it out on easier stuff. one of my favorite climbs, bruce's crack, is a 5.6 and i think i put in 5 pieces yesterday in the 25 meters, not including the fixed nut. i dunno. it's all subjective.
Jun 7, 2007, 7:16 PM
Post #67 of 81
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Re: [cracklover] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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cracklover wrote:
j_ung wrote:
As for your perfect small-cam placements... God I love the NRG.
Yeah? I guess I really gotta get there someday.
GO
I just wanted to reinforce what j_ung said- I remember plugging in my Z5 on a corner in NRG and it being the most solid piece on the route, despite being the smallest by far. gotta love the nuttall!
Jun 7, 2007, 8:24 PM
Post #68 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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I'm just beginning to climb trad. Probably 6 months now give or take.
My general level = 5.7 - 5.8+
Hardest trad lead = 5.9+
Typical pitch length = ~100ft give or take (Red River Gorge)
I typically carry way more than I need since I'm still getting accustomed to plugging gear and would rather have too much than not enough. That being said, I typically carry:
Full set of Metolius (with doubles in TCUs) BD C4 # .75 - 3 Double set of nuts Largest 4 Rockcentrics 8-10 Dynemma trad draws 2 - 48" slings with biners for slinging trees, horns, etc... 1 - 48" sling tied into a sliding-X with limiter knots for the anchors (many of which are bolted around here)
I also have a #4 and #5 C4 that I'll carry if the route demands it.
Jun 7, 2007, 8:47 PM
Post #69 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General Level of leading trad: 5.10
Hardest trad lead: 5.10c
Length of routes: 40 meters or so? Almost everything in this town to lead on gear is 5.10 though...
Gear: I've got more gear than I'll ever use. I've got: Aliens: black through Orange, including the gray and gold, x2 red; 9 cams BD: camalots .1-4.5 (.1-.4 old style, 4.5 old style; 5 cams), .5-4 C4, X2 #1; 7 cams. BD total: 12 Wild Country: Forged Friends, 2.5-4, doubles in 2.5 and 4; 6 cams. Tech Friends: 5 and 6; 2 cams. Zeros: Gray and Blue. WC total: 10 cams Metolius: #'s 7-10, 4 cams.
plus one link cam, #2
Cam total: 36
I've got a full set of Metolius curved nuts, a full set of rocks (1-10), a set of ultralight rocks (1-6), micro rocks, a half set of astro nuts (1-5) and a #13 BD nut I bootied (36 nuts)
I've also got a full set of Metolius Hexes, BD hexes, #'s 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, with doubles in 6 and 10, triples of 9; 32 hexes.
I've also got 2 pink tricams, a red, brown and purple; 5 tricams.
I'm a gear whore.
When I"m on lead, I usually end up taking what I think I'll need. I NEVER take everything. I'd say my average rack contains: a set of nuts, a few hexes (middle sizes) or cams. I like to lead on passive, but there's at least one route here that seems to reject passive gear...
General 5.4-5.8+ Hardest 5.9+ Length around 30 meters (per pitch) Climb at Devils Lake Wi. Slippery quartz so cams like to walk so I avoid using them at all costs. Or Southern Illinois where I wish i had more cams.
Gear: 1 set of BD nuts with a double of #6 (the most useful one) and two random wallnuts i bought on sale. 1 set of BD hexes Power Cams 7 and 8 (sometimes 5 and 6, depends on if my friend left them on my rack or not) Pink Tricam. (sometimes red for same reason as above)
Usually use the whole set of nuts and Hexes when leading at Devils lake...but when im in southern illinois i rarely use hexes and borrow cams from a friend. Usually carry 6 trad draws and 5 sport draws, i cant afford 5 more of either one...so i use both kids for sport and trad.
Jul 9, 2007, 3:22 PM
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad:
5.8
Hardest trad lead:
5.9
Typical length of pitches in your area:
20 - 40m
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: I'm not much into active cams. Set of nuts and tricams 0.5 - 2, double first two. Quickdraws. Of course can't go to very wide crag with those but there isn't too many around anyways. If I can't do it with those, I have to practice more...
Jul 12, 2007, 7:38 PM
Post #72 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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General level of leading trad: 5.10
Hardest trad lead: 5.10d Jah Man on Sister Superior - 5 stars!
Typical length of pitches in your area: Don't have an area right now :(
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: Don't have one Desert rack: 20 or so stoppers, Aliens blue to red, double set of Camelots .5 to 3. Double the Aliens and Camelots if going to Indian Creek Crag rack: same stoppers, same Aliens, single set of Camelots, I'll pare it down or up if I can see all my placements Alpine rack: same stoppers, tri-cams pink to blue, same Aliens, double set of Camelots(if car-to-car and short approach), single set of Camelots plus hexes 7-10(if long approach or back country) I'll add Big-bro's or larger Camelots to any of the above if there are off-width pitches
Jul 14, 2007, 7:35 AM
Post #73 of 81
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Re: [psprings] correlating level of trad lead and rack size
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First off, the poll makes no sense, what so ever. Generally, though those who climb harder "trad" own bigger racks, the routes and personnal pref, have more to do with what goes on the rack for a given climb/pitch. -I've taken more stuff on 1 pitch Indian creek leads than we did on the nose.
General level of leading trad: -above 12a only on special occasions, these days
Hardest trad led: -13
Typical length of pitches in your area: -I travel and have no area; 30-200'
Gear: types of pro and how many total pieces you carry on your standard rack: -no standard rack, shy away from nuts unless needed and generally carry less than 24 cams, unless needed, took about ten peices (plus slings) on the DNB, Astroman etc
14 /
13%
). 
