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whiskeybullets
Jul 18, 2007, 8:08 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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I've been kicking around the idea of building another boldering wall and came across the the Moon Board and School Room Hold set.
This looked like a great system to me. One of my problems with my home wall is a lack of use by anyone other than myself. Therefore I set the problems and I climb them. This leaves something to be desired as I already have most of the moves worked out before I even get to start a new problem! Also, I don't boulder frequently enough to appropriately grade them, so it's difficult to gauge progress (if any).
The Moon system seemed to solve this for me. It provides me a setting and a collection of holds so that I can mimmick Ben Moon's bolder problems in the comfort and proximity of my own garage! Alas, there are some short comings.
1. Ben Moon climbs harder than me and sets mostly V5 and above. I mostly trad climb and bouldering V5 isn't exactly where I want to be right now. Maybe V3 to V4. Also my girlfriend could really benefit from strength bouldering, but she's at a V1/V2 level and would quickly become frustrated with this set up.
2. It seems Mr. Moon stopped updating the wall more than a year ago. That would mean I'd have three set of problems (those that are currently listed on moonclimbing.com) and that's it! Not much in the way of variety I'd say.
So does anyone know of a similar system? I buy some holds of a standard nature, I have a wall of a standard nature, and someone else designs the problems for me, sends me a nice little pdf file of the newest Vwhatevers, I mimick the problems on my woodie, have fun and get wicked strong! This would be great.
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jakedatc
Jul 18, 2007, 8:21 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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I agree.. if you do not climb that hard you should skip the Moon holds.. i looked at them recently and decided it was not a good choice.. i am decent but i would be working the low end problems for a little while.. really projecting the moderates and having zero chance at the hard stuff.
i haven't seen anything like it for more moderate problems out there. Best bet is to get a lot of holds you like and then just throw them up in random spots and play add on or see what is seems interesting/challenging at the time.
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manacubus
Jul 19, 2007, 4:52 AM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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Also agree.
I was looking at the Moon Board setup just last week and one other issue I found is the height required to build the wall. I would wager not many people have the 3m plus height required. I know I didn't!
Uncarved Block had a similar system (standard set and problems on the website etc.) for some years but are unfortunately not in full scale production anymore.
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ryu_kyo
Jul 19, 2007, 7:30 AM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2006
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hello,
i would like to share about my moon board. this is my wall look like.i've made some modification like placed hinges between every board and i used wire rope to hold the wall, so it will make the wall more adjustable with how much steep that i want.
just finished the construction.
about the hold,i decided to make my own bcoz,in my country,handholds are so damn expensive.and i've set some route according to the moon board problem setup using my own holds.although i'm not using the moon original hold,the route still hard to finish.
some of my custom made holds
actually,for the first time,i've set the wall to 45 degree steep but it came very hard to climb.later then i tilt a lil bit my wall from 45 to 40 degree.
look nice with custom made holds
p/s:sorry for my broken english
(This post was edited by ryu_kyo on Jul 19, 2007, 8:17 AM)
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richardni
Jul 19, 2007, 1:10 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2006
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The moon board is great, i have built one, and my climbing has got so much better. but to start off with, i couldent do even the most simple problems.
but if you stick at it, it took about a month to do one of them.
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squarf
Jul 19, 2007, 2:06 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2006
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One thing you could do, is make some holds yourself and send them to people for free and have them make routes for you in return.
You use the moon board setup, get about 20-30 molds made, and start manufacturing your own holds. Put a set together and then send them to people that are interested and in return they give you the coordinates for some routes they have set. Since it would likely be pricey to pick up the costs for yourself, ask for payment through paypal or personal check before sending.
(just a thought)
--Nathan
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jakedatc
Jul 19, 2007, 3:30 PM
Post #7 of 10
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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ryu_kyo wrote: hello, i would like to share about my moon board. this is my wall look like.i've made some modification like placed hinges between every board and i used wire rope to hold the wall, so it will make the wall more adjustable with how much steep that i want. [IMG]http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/9089/homewall020hs1.jpg[/IMG] just finished the construction. about the hold,i decided to make my own bcoz,in my country,handholds are so damn expensive.and i've set some route according to the moon board problem setup using my own holds.although i'm not using the moon original hold,the route still hard to finish. [IMG]http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/3585/p1010259lv9.jpg[/IMG] some of my custom made holds actually,for the first time,i've set the wall to 45 degree steep but it came very hard to climb.later then i tilt a lil bit my wall from 45 to 40 degree. [IMG]http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/2466/holdswall007bw7.jpg[/IMG] look nice with custom made holds p/s:sorry for my broken english
sweet.. nice looking wall. and well done to overcome the hold issue and making your own.
the 3m is a tough bit for people putting them in a house since most ceilings are at 8' garage you could be ok
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trebork2
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Jul 19, 2007, 3:50 PM
Post #8 of 10
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Nice board and holds ryu_kyo. I sent you a PM.
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rockjunkie2
Jul 19, 2007, 10:00 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2006
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moon board is great if you are bouldering v7 and up. moon climbing claims the problems are v3 and up, but i disagree. 40 degrees w/ little edges hard to make problems that are under v5. all that said if you are bouldering v7 the system is great the problems rock. they teach you to lock off holds and use technique instead of blunt power. the website also claims jugs come w/ but my set came w/ none.
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ryu_kyo
Jul 20, 2007, 2:15 AM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2006
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trebork2 wrote: Nice board and holds ryu_kyo. I sent you a PM.
i've reply your PM
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