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LostinMaine
Aug 23, 2007, 12:58 PM
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Here' the link:
http://www.bangordailynews.com/...53357&zoneid=178
In my world of hearsay, I believe she was leading Recollections of Pacifica (5.9). This is a finger crack with a true crux sequence. It also has finicky gear leading up to the crux. It has been a few years since I climbed the route, but IIRC gear is well below your feet when you get into the crux. The last piece of gear before the crux is a small cam... and if it pulls you have a ground fall potential. I have no idea if this is what happened, but from the article and the route she was on, it would make sense.
Has anyone heard different or have any more information?
I truly hope that she is ok and that she will be climbing again soon!
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reg
Aug 23, 2007, 1:22 PM
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"She fell about 15 feet and landed on a sharp rock on her back" - ouch!
tresann: hope as well.
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douglaskinsman
Aug 23, 2007, 1:46 PM
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I just got off the phone with Tresann and this is what I got from the conversation. Tresann took a bad leader fall in Acadia leading Recollections of Pacifica (5.9) She had lead the climb several times before. It is a low angle slab for 15 feet or so and then the crux comes with a thin crack in a steep, but short bulge. She said she climbed up to the crack and placed a big nut and then just before the hardest part of the climb she placed a cam. She unexpectedly lost her footing trying to pull the bulge and her cam ripped and the nut failed. Unfortunately, her leg got caught behind the rope and it flipped her over crashing her onto her side into the slab below. Tres commented that both pieces were bomber and that there was no reason for either one to rip. She said she fell about 15-20 feet before hitting the slab. She cracked 9 ribs, punctured her lung and badly broke one of her lumbar vertebrae. Her friend Jim helped her off the slab to flat ground and called 911. The rescue crew was there fast and they litter carried her down to a field where she was life flighted to Bangor. She came out of surgery today having had her spine fused and is currently in recovery. So far she has been able to stand and sit up on her own although in extreme pain. Her predicted recovery period is 3-4 months. She will probably be at the hospital for a few weeks before they will release her. The main number at the hospital is 207-973-7000 and Tres is in Rm. 517 for those of you that want to send flowers, candy, vegetables, etc.
Tres is probably the safest climber I know; always double checking and placing more gear for the sake of redundancy/safety. She typically carries almost twice the rack that I do and consistently places good gear and alot of it. The fact that this accident happened just goes to show that rockclimbing is inherently dangerous and sometimes accidents happen without good explanation or grounds for ocurring.
Best Regards, Doug
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wonderwoman
Aug 23, 2007, 2:07 PM
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That's horrible! I hope she recovers soon!
Recollections was my first 5.9 lead, and I remember being able to place two good pieces of small gear right before the crux move. I basically built myself a mini anchor there! I also remember the climb being slightly slabby, so it's suprising that she would fall onto her back. (EDIT - Just saw the explanation above this post so her fall makes more sense to me now).
At any rate, I hope she is getting better and back on the rock soon!
Tiff
(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Aug 23, 2007, 2:10 PM)
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gblauer
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Aug 23, 2007, 2:55 PM
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I hope she recovers quickly. My thoughts and prayers are with her...
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LostinMaine
Aug 23, 2007, 3:19 PM
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Thanks for posting the update, Doug. What you described is what I envisioned happening on the route. I'm so sorry to hear that it happened.
Get well soon, Tres!
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Aug 23, 2007, 3:21 PM)
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moose_droppings
Aug 23, 2007, 3:22 PM
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Doug, thanks for relaying Tresann's account.
Tresann, get well soon.
*sending positive thoughts your way*
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douglaskinsman
Aug 23, 2007, 3:26 PM
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To make sure there is no confusion the nut was not her first piece; she had two cams in below that so the nut was her third piece. The point being multi directional pieces were in below the nut to prevent zippering which is especially important when transitioning from slab to a steep face.
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wonderwoman
Aug 23, 2007, 3:36 PM
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Do you think her gear pulling had something to do with the rope being behind her leg? Or did the gear pull, and then she flipped because the rope was behind her leg?
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billl7
Aug 23, 2007, 3:49 PM
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I imagine that in the coming days Tres and her belayer will have time to hash things over. Then things might be a bit clearer.
Of course, having zipper-stoppers further down only helps if they are at protected points that can see outward/upward forces.
Best wishes in your recovery, Tres!
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kobaz
Aug 23, 2007, 4:51 PM
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In reply to: Tres commented that both pieces were bomber and that there was no reason for either one to rip.
This is a bad mentality to get into. If the pieces ripped then obviously they were not bomber. Bomber is when the gear holds, not if it looks like it's going to hold.
Good to hear that she will recover.
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anatomyman
Aug 23, 2007, 5:30 PM
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This is her belayer speaking:
This is not the way we want Tres to be well known, I am posting to set the record straight and let everyone know her GREAT progress in Recovery!:
One day after spinal fusion surgery Tres is friggin walkin!
Tres had one cracked vertabra & 9 broken ribs, plus a 15% collapsed lung.
The spine is taken care of, recovery is next, the ribs will take time to heal.
She is mentally srong & focused on getting out of this hospital!
As Doug said, I will follow Tres up anything & she is the safest climber I know!
i followed her up this climb last year & we started this climb in good spirits, Recollections of Pacifica is mentally calming since it is a protectable crack in full view.
Tres placed two metolius cams, then a nut tugged into place a few times), runners were not extended beyond 1' since it was a straight crack, she placed another Metolius (I still have to inspect the cam in my jeep). She stepped to the crux flake above her last piece & simply slipped.
As she fell, her hands & feet were pointing to the rock, she was calm, did not yell since she thought her gear would hold.
I pulled in & locked
I watched the top piece pull,...I don't recall if her leg caught or the nut pulled first, but I saw her twist sideways.
Since she was above Four pieces with 15' - 20' of climbing, after two pieces pulled, she had no chance.
The image and sound of one of my best friends hitting the deck is something I will not soon forget.
Please help us by keeping these postings as supportive as you have done so far, and please do not speculate too much.
I had to rescue Tres & call in the rescue team.
THANK YOU to Heidi, Arthur, Dave (plus at least twelve others on the carry)of National Park Service & Mt Desert Island Rescue, Thank you to LifeFlight, and Dr. Swartzbaugh of Neurosurgery.
As you can imagine, I am facing some "survivor's guilt" and would have gladly taken her place or taken her impact, my actions immediately after her impact & before the rescue team arrival are things that I will debate internally for awhile, but the outcome is successfull, Tres has no nerve damage, no paralysis, she is now in a painful recovery process
Please send positive energy her way.
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jdouble
Aug 23, 2007, 5:42 PM
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Positive energy coming for both of you!
Thanks for posting.
Jay
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notapplicable
Aug 23, 2007, 9:29 PM
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A tough batch of injuries to be sure but still very lucky to not have any nerve damage. Good on ya for wearing your helmat Tres.
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billcoe_
Aug 23, 2007, 9:51 PM
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douglaskinsman wrote: I just got off the phone with Tresann and this is what I got from the conversation. Tresann took a bad leader fall in Acadia leading Recollections of Pacifica (5.9) She had lead the climb several times before. It is a low angle slab for 15 feet or so and then the crux comes with a thin crack in a steep, but short bulge. She said she climbed up to the crack and placed a big nut and then just before the hardest part of the climb she placed a cam. She unexpectedly lost her footing trying to pull the bulge and her cam ripped and the nut failed. Unfortunately, her leg got caught behind the rope and it flipped her over crashing her onto her side into the slab below. Tres commented that both pieces were bomber and that there was no reason for either one to rip. She said she fell about 15-20 feet before hitting the slab. She cracked 9 ribs, punctured her lung and badly broke one of her lumbar vertebrae. Her friend Jim helped her off the slab to flat ground and called 911. The rescue crew was there fast and they litter carried her down to a field where she was life flighted to Bangor. She came out of surgery today having had her spine fused and is currently in recovery. So far she has been able to stand and sit up on her own although in extreme pain. Her predicted recovery period is 3-4 months. She will probably be at the hospital for a few weeks before they will release her. The main number at the hospital is 207-973-7000 and Tres is in Rm. 517 for those of you that want to send flowers, candy, vegetables, etc. Tres is probably the safest climber I know; always double checking and placing more gear for the sake of redundancy/safety. She typically carries almost twice the rack that I do and consistently places good gear and alot of it. The fact that this accident happened just goes to show that rockclimbing is inherently dangerous and sometimes accidents happen without good explanation or grounds for ocurring. Best Regards, Doug
To the belayer: hang in dude, it gets better as time passes. RC is dangerous, sometimes beyond what we can do.
Thinking good wishes and thoughts to Tre!
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LostinMaine
Aug 23, 2007, 10:09 PM
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anato-
Thanks for posting your account. It seems like you did everything a belayer should do, and I have no doubts that Tres is appreciative of your care after the fall.
Here's to a speedy recovery!
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sed
Aug 23, 2007, 10:16 PM
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What kind of rock is it if I may ask?
s
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josephgdawson
Aug 23, 2007, 11:11 PM
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douglaskinsman wrote: Tres commented that both pieces were bomber and that there was no reason for either one to rip.
For her sake, someone better show her how to place pro after she recovers. Bomber pro does not rip. Denial is a powerful thing.
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alpinismo_flujo
Aug 23, 2007, 11:57 PM
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Positive vibrations Tres
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plue
Aug 24, 2007, 12:16 PM
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Here’s some more positive vibes your way Tres.
When I got off the phone with Jim the other day I couldn’t help but grin with excitement at the news of your quick progress since the surgery. If anyone has the tenacity to break the record for recovering an accident like this it’ll be you. Keep on pulling and let me know when you want to go for Vietnamese food. Everyone is thinking of you. I hope you can feel it.
Thanks to you Jim for doing what you have been for all of us. You know we’re at your side as well.
Paul.
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billl7
Aug 24, 2007, 12:36 PM
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josephgdawson wrote: For her sake, someone better show her how to place pro after she recovers. Bomber pro does not rip. Denial is a powerful thing.
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rgold
Aug 26, 2007, 1:26 AM
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In reply to: If the pieces ripped then obviously they were not bomber. Bomber is when the gear holds, not if it looks like it's going to hold.
In reply to: Someone better show her how to place pro after she recovers. Bomber pro does not rip.
The posters make it sound as if misjudging bomber pro is a newbie mistake, but this is just plain false. When the designer of Metolius cams made a bunch of placements and made judgements, he found that one in twenty of the placements he judged to be good failed. John Dill was recently quoted as saying, "YOSAR has seen several cases of 'solid' cam placements failing, even under body weight." And in a recent accident due to pro failure on the Nose, "this isn't a case of a beginner misjudging his protection...it can and does happen anywhere."
Bomber pro is a completely theoretical concept. Our ability to judge it will always be flawed. In view of this, I think second-guessers should bite their tongues; their supposed expertise can evaporate in a fraction of a second with their own first misjudgement. Experienced climbers all have a backlog of mistakes made, errors in judgement that could have been serious but luckily weren't. The result should be some humility when we hear of another climber's misfortune, even if the natural human instinct is to explain to ourselves and anyone else who will listen why this could never happen to us. But it can---climbing cannot be made completely safe.
Best wishes to Tres for a speedy and full recovery.
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notch
Aug 26, 2007, 8:58 PM
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josephgdawson wrote: douglaskinsman wrote: Tres commented that both pieces were bomber and that there was no reason for either one to rip. For her sake, someone better show her how to place pro after she recovers. Bomber pro does not rip. Denial is a powerful thing.
That tone is disrespectful and inappropriate, especially given the belayer's recent post. Whether she thought the placements were bomber or not, I guarantee you she'll be analyzing her placements pretty darn closely after the events of this weekend. If you're so concerned about her safety than scroll up the page, find the number and call her in the hospital to express your concerns. The anonymity of the internet enabling people to be complete jerks is a powerful thing.
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mikitta
Aug 26, 2007, 9:55 PM
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Prayers and thoughts going up for all of you. Glad to hear Tres is recovering well!
God Bless,
mik
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charley
Aug 26, 2007, 10:25 PM
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Good luck with the healing, physical and mental, Tres and belayer. Positive thoughts and prayers.
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