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justthemaid
Aug 28, 2007, 3:32 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
Posts: 777
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kobaz wrote: Not any accidents but... I'll never go on a climb without a headlamp again. Even if you start a 2 pitch route at 2pm. .
Agreed
I was just about to say...
NEVER do any mutipitch without a headlamp no matter what time of day you start or how few pitches it is.
More muti-pitch tips: Always bring some water. If the climb is long bring a lot of water. You can pour it out if there's too much, but you can't make water materialize out of thin air if you need it.
I finally got a clue and started ignoring the habits of some of my partners who take virtually nothing on long climbs. This has caused some mini epics on more than one occasion.
I've put up with some crap for carrying a pack but as someone new to mutipitch the climbs are going to take a LONG time (figure at least an hour per pitch) and you should plan accordingly.
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vector
Aug 28, 2007, 5:27 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 88
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holdplease2 wrote: ... I consider, if the decision goes badly and results in an accident, how the ANAM report would read...and would it read like I was a total f-ing idiot or would it read like I made the best decision possible at the time. ... -Kate.
That is a really great decision making tool, seriously. Thanks for sharing.
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papounet
Aug 29, 2007, 12:36 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
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If the climbing is much harder than it should (vs. beta or topo), double check wether you are on-route or not.
If necessary, back off.
I took my first mountain lead fall because of that some years ago. Since then, I have worked on my downclimb and orientation skills.
(This post was edited by papounet on Aug 29, 2007, 12:40 PM)
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skinner
Sep 2, 2007, 8:49 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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justthemaid wrote: kobaz wrote: Not any accidents but... I'll never go on a climb without a headlamp again. Even if you start a 2 pitch route at 2pm. Agreed I was just about to say... NEVER do any mutipitch without a headlamp no matter what time of day you start or how few pitches it is.
I'm glad I'm not alone on this one. In fact during the winter months when the days are especially short, my headlamp just stays on my helmet as we inevitably end up in the dark at some point every time we go out. It really doesn't weigh enough that I even notice I'm wearing it, although I have been asked if I'm going spelunking
It's just so much easier to reach up and click it on when you need it, then trying to dig it out of your pack, take off your helmet, put it on.. etc,
Being able to turn on my headlamp with gloves/mitts on, is a criteria for me when choosing a headlamp, the less I have to do with bare hands when it's dark and the temps are plummeting, the better. I also prefer dual bulb-type, Xenon-LED, so I can have all the light I want when I need it, but be able to extend the battery life in LED mode the majority of the time. Burn time is another consideration, the headlamp I use is capable of 5 days of continuous burn time in LED mode on a single set of batteries (this is under ideal conditions of course).
justthemaid wrote: I've put up with some crap for carrying a pack...
I always carry a (small) pack, even lead with one.. (mind you it's pretty much empty when I do) I like to have a wind-shell maybe an extra layer or two, anchor material, water, etc. and makes it easier to split the load on approach/descent, beside the fact that it's nice to sit on!
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desertwanderer81
Sep 5, 2007, 10:43 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272
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Headlamp is a must that I've learned from experience. I bring one in my pack even if I'm doing an AM climb.
Make sure you have a backup belay device. My hands have been so numb on a multipitch climb that I dropped my ATC! Luckily I ALWAYS have a backup device. On that note, make sure you only have one piece of gear in each hand at a time. So important!
And on the cold note, make sure you are prepared for the weather. Even if it is a comfortable 50 degrees at home, it can be 25 degrees on the cliff esp when you're a few thousand feet up! Be prepared!
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