|
USMClimb
Sep 11, 2007, 2:39 AM
Post #1 of 7
(1144 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2007
Posts: 11
|
So yesterday i was at the gym and i had a really fun session. But today during school later in the day i noticed my knuckles (the ones closest to my fingertips) felt sore. I've been actively climbing for alittle over a month now with 2 to 3 gym sessions a week. And not until recently have i been doing alot of crimps and holds that put alot of stress on my fingers. Is the soreness normal/healthy? I was planning on climbing tommarow, should i wait a couple of days or will i be allright?
|
|
|
|
|
lextalion
Sep 11, 2007, 5:13 AM
Post #2 of 7
(1120 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 216
|
Stop drag'n them on the ground.
Seriouly though, doing crimps is very hard on the joints. I would only climb three times a week if my joints were getting sore. I noticed that climbing a couple of years ago, I was getting more injuries @ work while building, due to the fact that i was doing crimps and building hand strength for climbing. Ended up having to lay off any work outs for several months in order to keep from getting hurt.
|
|
|
|
|
ajkclay
Sep 11, 2007, 5:51 AM
Post #3 of 7
(1106 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
|
Allow yourself time to adapt, how old are you?
You don't want to be trying too hard to begin with, your connective tissue (muscle, tendons, ligaments) needs time to adapt to the new stresses that climbing is placing on them.
Climb on slopers they are harder to master than crimps, but when you have developed good sloper strength you'll be amazed at the improvements in contact strength for crimping etc.
You don't want to be damaging pulleys in your fingers in your new sport, they take a damned long time to heal.
Cheers mate
Adam
|
|
|
|
|
lextalion
Sep 12, 2007, 4:21 AM
Post #4 of 7
(1066 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 216
|
Mate, I'm 41. and that is exactly one of the things I did. I found that I was much weaker in the sloper holds than the crimps.
I also was working way to hard on dime size crimps than what is normally out on routes. heck of the time I don't pull a ton of crimps throughout a entire route, let along hold my entire body weight off it for 10 minutes either.
I've learned a little even though my wife feels I'm a bit slow.
|
|
|
|
|
alexschultz1
Sep 17, 2007, 4:37 PM
Post #5 of 7
(1022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 3, 2007
Posts: 31
|
lextalion wrote: Mate, I'm 41. and that is exactly one of the things I did. I found that I was much weaker in the sloper holds than the crimps. I also was working way to hard on dime size crimps than what is normally out on routes. heck of the time I don't pull a ton of crimps throughout a entire route, let along hold my entire body weight off it for 10 minutes either. I've learned a little even though my wife feels I'm a bit slow.
i think your a bit slow too .. jk
go on the internet and look up this drink called "joint juice" its a small can about half the size of a coke can and contains alot of good vitamins and stuff that helps your joints out alot, my dad is 46 and drinks one everyday because he has started to get arthritis, he says that if he had started drinking the joint juice a couple years before it would have helped him out alot.
|
|
|
|
|
USMClimb
Sep 20, 2007, 2:22 AM
Post #6 of 7
(963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2007
Posts: 11
|
well its been a while now and my knuckles arent really sore anymore. and ive noticed my hand strength has improved alot. i mean, pain is weakness leaving the body right?
|
|
|
|
|
deadhorse
Sep 20, 2007, 5:07 AM
Post #7 of 7
(939 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241
|
yeah you'll be fine- there's alot of pains that come with training your body for climbing, it's only when they are really excessive that you need to modify your approach. The skin on your hands is a good example. Or your forearm muscles. or your toes. the list goes on.
My finger joints hurt still when I work a boulder problem that has excessively small crimps that i try over and over. But only once i relax my hand. "Just shake it out" is a motto to live by for these minor pains.
|
|
|
|
|
|
