The bouldering police get you for that. You also cannot, under any circumstances, do a single move on a route graded 5.X without being tied into a rope - not even if you just do the moves up to the bouldering height limit. It just isn't done.

Bouldering is meant to be hard nasty agro stuff workers at any gym should tell new people what different parts of the gym are all about "stick to the green tape" and its all good

Everyone needs to read John Shermans book. And then realize that gyms are completely different than climbing outside.

Everyone has a different opinion as to how the "community" should be. Every gym is full of different attitudes toward what is acceptable inflation or deflation of consistent grades for the area that the gym is located. I have spent many hours in many gyms around the country and they all offer something different.

I know that for myself V0 can be a very wide range of difficulties. You can't compare sport climbing grades with bouldering grades. They really don't relate. I've been on 5.8's that I guarantee you had no move harder than a V0 on it but gave me a run for my money based on its explotation of my climbing weakness (crack climbing).

Most gyms are dead vertical or overhung thus increasing the difficulty for any new climber. What shurafa is asking cant happen. Most bouldering areas CAN'T make the climbs any easier. If you can't climb a gently overhanging ladder you shouldn't be in the climbing gym bouldering in the first place. Most gyms I've been in have bouldering problems in the V0 and VB range that are horribly easier than climbing a ladder.

Climbing isn't good for people who don't have some type of athletic ability. You can't expect (or ask) the climbing community to ever be consistent. Its never going to happen. Climbing is very very elitist and it always will be. Especially in gyms. I think gyms are far less consistent that grades outdoors.

As the poster above intimates, for some gyms, based on the structures they built, it may not be possible.

? Huh? I'm only an elitist when picking out the correct word s for my posts. Got panties on the brain crack? That's cool.

Though I still am not sure whether you were for or against the OP and whether or not you agree or not with rx_7. I still think this is a waste and it amuses me that this thing has gotten 60+ responses.

This thread is funny and strangely reminiscent of "Question 52":

"Deinde quaeritur de loco Angeli. Et circa hoc quaeruntur tria. Primo, utrum Angelus sit in loco. Secundo, utrum possit esse in pluribus locis simul. Tertio, utrum plures Angeli possint esse in eodem loco."

I get to be the first to agree with the OP on this. I started out bouldering because I'm too shy to find a belay partner. After two years of climbing I find V0- is tough and have only done a couple clean. It sucks to go up to a VB and not be able to get started. I have always had to work hard to get little in athletics. So I guess by everyone's answers I should just sit on the couch and get fat like I was doing two years ago. Some folks probably will flame me for agreeing with the OP, but who cares. I have learned to really enjoy bouldering and am glad that some gyms had the sense enough to set some easier routes. I see a direct corrolation of how much business a gym does to the diversity of their routes.

My gym sets V0s very close to how they set their 5.10s on top ropes. They use the 5.7-5.9 nominclature to show the easier routes. They just switched to this and I think its great. I like the idea of X5-X9 better because it makes the statement that this is a bouldering route and will probably take some kind of specialist skill to complete the problem be it power, balance, toe jams, drop knees etc. For all of you that can't handle change. You should read "Who Moved My Cheese".

For those who say just climb rainbow. I know from experience that climbing rainbow doesn't work most of the time. Its fun to complete a climb as marked from a real sit start. I'm glad the gym I started at had auto belays and bouldering comp routes less than 50 or I wouldn't have come back. To those of you that say you don't want me because I'm not a good climber, there are other things about me that make me valuable to the community.

When a community integrates diversity it succeeds. The gym is where begginers go to learn this great sport. There's nothing wrong with having good feelings about an accomplishment while at the same time keeping it real. V0 should look like the crux on a modern 5.10 route. Make some routes harder and rate them V1-14. Make some routes easier and rate them X1-9.

There's my rant I feel better now.

What I'm saying is there should be a place for everyone in the sport. I realize that the elite group usually lead the way in a sport. The problem is that it is discouraging to flail away on 10 V0s before you come to one that you have a chance on. Any nOOb could climb an X3 or at least make a valid attempt at it even if he/she was climbing out of a wheel chair. I want to be able to aspire to climbing V10 so V10s should be available too. The problem with the grading system is that they forgot about the unskilled when they made it. If they had X3-9 then V0 would not need to have such a range and thereby as in your soccer analogy the goal post won't be widened as it is now. That's what the OP is saying and this is how it "affects the rest of us". Your V7 gets easier because V0 has to be 5.5 like as well as 5.10 like. So someone says man the V1 is waaay harder than the V0 it must be a V3. Eventually the whole system gets diluted except at the highest grades. As well as scaring away potential climbing advocates.

The problem with the grading system is that they forgot about the unskilled when they made it.

What I'm saying is there should be a place for everyone in the sport. I realize that the elite group usually lead the way in a sport. The problem is that it is discouraging to flail away on 10 V0s before you come to one that you have a chance on. Any nOOb could climb an X3 or at least make a valid attempt at it even if he/she was climbing out of a wheel chair. I want to be able to aspire to climbing V10 so V10s should be available too. The problem with the grading system is that they forgot about the unskilled when they made it. If they had X3-9 then V0 would not need to have such a range and thereby as in your soccer analogy the goal post won't be widened as it is now. That's what the OP is saying and this is how it "affects the rest of us". Your V7 gets easier because V0 has to be 5.5 like as well as 5.10 like. So someone says man the V1 is waaay harder than the V0 it must be a V3. Eventually the whole system gets diluted except at the highest grades. As well as scaring away potential climbing advocates.