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rayzor
Oct 16, 2002, 11:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
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The prevention of accidents and injuries is always preferable to the cure. i have, so far, avoided any injuries through the diligence of my trusted and competant belayer. Through double checking they have picked up improperly fitted harnesses, anchoring on to the chalk bag and other silly mistakes that could have been disasterous if not for DOUBLE CHECKING. Safe climbing.
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tanner
Oct 17, 2002, 12:03 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2002
Posts: 491
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Word!!!, when teaching rappeling at a summer camp I work at the system gets checked 3 times. I always double check (verbaly)
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ropegirl
Oct 17, 2002, 12:41 AM
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Registered: Apr 29, 2002
Posts: 54
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Absolutely and critically essential. When double checking my system once before rapping down from setting up a very simple TR, I found my harness was not double backed. Was sure I'd put it on fully but had I not checked, I'd have been SPLAT!
Always double check, especially in the most basic situations when you're inclined not to.
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geezergecko
Oct 17, 2002, 2:54 AM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2002
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Unfortunately, it takes a close call to bring this point home. Twice I have had the climber I was belaying pass the rope tie in through only one of their hip/leg loops. The first time I missed it, and although the climber didn't get hurt, it shook me up enough that I made a point of always checking for this and was ready for the second time it happened (with a different climber).
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billcoe_
Oct 17, 2002, 3:50 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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The Lynn Hill toproping story was enough to convince me. Very competant climbers hanging around, and they all just watched her climb a route with the rope jammed into her harness, untied. Worked OK till she got to the top and leaned back. Ouch.
IMO, her belayers get about 1/2 the blame. No reason to make this simple mistake, but it can happen.
Bill
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mattrix
Oct 17, 2002, 4:33 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2002
Posts: 9
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Yeah. No doubt about it. Clipping on a belay device is about clipping into a contract. "I am responsible for your life." Think about it. Isn't a belayer's whole job description to catch you if you make a mistake? I take it to mean every mistake, from the moment I clip on until they are safely back in the car driving home. The terms "belaying" and "responsibility" are almost interchangable for me. You are clipping into a contract.
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apollodorus
Oct 17, 2002, 4:39 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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There should be some sort of climbing maxim, a derivative of:
"Measure twice, and then cut once."
It might be:
"Check twice, then go up once."
For what it's worth, I tend to check more than twice. And especially when I'm gripped. Checking everything again and again before moving is avoidance behaviour, I admit it, but at least it's safer.
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kcrag
Oct 17, 2002, 5:32 AM
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Registered: May 27, 2002
Posts: 599
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Double checking probably saved my bootie the time that I had to tie in to an anchor in order to lower down a few feet to set up a top rope. Luckily, my less experienced climbing partner at the time (whom I had pounded into his head the importance of 'double checking'), noticed that I was not, as I thought, actually clipped into my safety get-up. Oops! I hope to never make that mistake again.
Double check yourself, as well as your partner, in everything that you do. Simple, yet REALLY important things can often be overlooked.
I'd also suggest reading up on climbing accidents, in order to better educate yourself in all that can go wrong. A fun one to read is John Long's "Close Calls".
Cheers to safe climbing!
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