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larryd
Dec 6, 2007, 6:22 PM
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A recent thread asks who uses hexes. Unasked is the question, why? So, here is why I use them:
There is an often unrecognized Essential Truth: climbing a route with passive gear is inherently more rewarding than using cams. It requires greater thought, planning, ingenuity, and mental control. Here is a useful exercise those living in an area with limited climbing options-- each time you are repeating a route, cut a few cams from your rack and you will feel like it is a brand new experience.
There is also a safety benefit to the use of hexes that makes them an excellent complement to a cam rack. Certain placements strongly favor hexes. In an irregular crack, the hex can be perfect where the cam is shaky. In placements involving thin flakes, you can often place good passive gear in a fashion that avoids the strongly multiplied outward forces associated with a cam. In sub-optimal, low-friction conditions, such as wet, icy, or soft rock, the hex may offer the most secure placement. When placements are shallow (e.g. using face features such as Red Rock's varnished plates) the hex will sometimes nestle into a spot where the cam cannot fit.
I normally climb with both hexes and cams. Sometimes I will climb with no cams, but I never climb with no hexes.
My thoughts on a hex rack: Don't get wires on anything that can take 7mm perlon or bigger. Sling them long: most of mine are about 18 inches. It seems like currently available slung hexes are way too short, probably intended for clipping with a quickdraw-- not for me. I also don't go for the "tricky" features; curves and tapered ends seem like no benefit to me. Given that cams are so common these days, there does not seem to be any motivation to modify the hex to (maybe) stick in some unfriendly placement. If the crack is parallel, you're probably going to put in a cam. The hexes are for use in placements that are "natural" for them.
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dingus
Dec 6, 2007, 6:33 PM
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Hi Larry I'd chime in with the why-nots but you already know those reasons and last time I volunteered this info I was personally flamed for it.
Enjoy your hexes mate!
DMT
ps. I too feel the call of the nut bro, (to your first point). Sometimes the nut's the nut and sometimes the nut's a nutter.
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caughtinside
Dec 6, 2007, 6:57 PM
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I have more or less never climbed with hexes. I don't feel like I'm missing anything (but I guess I wouldn't really know, because I've only used them for novelty value on a couple pitches.)
Here's why:
Cams are fast.
Cams are uniform. Out of the last 20 people I've climbed with, only 1 uses hexes. Almost no one I climb with racks hexes.
Hexes are less versatile. Opinion here. Don't work in parallel sided cracks. You need a constriction.
The noise. The noise is really silly to me. I snicker when I hear someone walking up the trail with a hex rack.
That's the quick version. Sure, hexes are cheap and light, but they're less versatile.
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tomtom
Dec 6, 2007, 7:09 PM
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Hexes work best on inward flaring cracks. Cams would be insecure.
It's a choice. Choose the right tool for the job.
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shimanilami
Dec 6, 2007, 8:31 PM
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larryd wrote: There is an often unrecognized Essential Truth: climbing a route with passive gear is inherently more rewarding than using cams.
It's "unrecognized" because it's ludicrous.
Sorry, Larry, but the less "thought, planning, and ingenuity, and mental control" I need to be safe, the better. I prefer to spend my energy on climbing, not fiddling with gear.
Sometimes, rarely, hexes are the best gear. And that's when I bring 'em.
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vector
Dec 6, 2007, 8:38 PM
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tomtom wrote: Hexes work best on inward flaring cracks. Cams would be insecure.
Tomtom has this one right. I run into inward flaring cracks all the time (most of my climbing is at Seneca).
In short and in terms of the OP's question--I use them because they fit where other stuff doesn't. The weight and cost benefits are secondary.
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larryd
Dec 6, 2007, 8:38 PM
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Hey Dingus, no flames necessary. Just that everyone knows what's good about cams, so I thought I'd mention what's good about hexes. I'm sure it's not news to an old-timer such as yourself, but a lot of the younger guys have never learned the "Way of the Hex."
caughtinside wrote: ... Sure, hexes are cheap and light, but they're less versatile.
Maybe they are less versatile than a cam, but the point I was making was that a cam is not as versatile as a cam and a hex.
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larryd
Dec 6, 2007, 8:53 PM
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shimanilami wrote: Sorry, Larry, but the less "thought, planning, and ingenuity, and mental control" I need to be safe, the better. I prefer to spend my energy on climbing, not fiddling with gear.
With very little "thought, planning, and ingenuity, and mental control" you could probably find a sport far safer than climbing. A central reward many (myself included) derive from rock climbing is the process of coping safely with a somewhat artificially constructed challenge. Simpler gear is just one such challenge. Apparently you prefer others.
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reg
Dec 6, 2007, 8:56 PM
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larryd wrote: A recent thread asks who uses hexes. Unasked is the question, why? So, here is why I use them: There is an often unrecognized Essential Truth: climbing a route with passive gear is inherently more rewarding than using cams. It requires greater thought, planning, ingenuity, and mental control. Here is a useful exercise those living in an area with limited climbing options-- each time you are repeating a route, cut a few cams from your rack and you will feel like it is a brand new experience. There is also a safety benefit to the use of hexes that makes them an excellent complement to a cam rack. Certain placements strongly favor hexes. In an irregular crack, the hex can be perfect where the cam is shaky. In placements involving thin flakes, you can often place good passive gear in a fashion that avoids the strongly multiplied outward forces associated with a cam. In sub-optimal, low-friction conditions, such as wet, icy, or soft rock, the hex may offer the most secure placement. When placements are shallow (e.g. using face features such as Red Rock's varnished plates) the hex will sometimes nestle into a spot where the cam cannot fit. I normally climb with both hexes and cams. Sometimes I will climb with no cams, but I never climb with no hexes. My thoughts on a hex rack: Don't get wires on anything that can take 7mm perlon or bigger. Sling them long: most of mine are about 18 inches. It seems like currently available slung hexes are way too short, probably intended for clipping with a quickdraw-- not for me. I also don't go for the "tricky" features; curves and tapered ends seem like no benefit to me. Given that cams are so common these days, there does not seem to be any motivation to modify the hex to (maybe) stick in some unfriendly placement. If the crack is parallel, you're probably going to put in a cam. The hexes are for use in placements that are "natural" for them.
i like um - i use um (passivly and actively) - i like the old school feel - the ole cow bells
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onceahardman
Dec 6, 2007, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: Here is a useful exercise those living in an area with limited climbing options-- each time you are repeating a route, cut a few cams from your rack and you will feel like it is a brand new experience.
That is really true. At a local crag, there is an easy route (5.4), that nobody ever climbs. I did it using knotted slings, threaded tunnels, and slung horns for pro- no metal chocks or cams at all. An entirely new mental experience, although the physical route was still obviously the same. I felt a bit of kinship with the Brits and Germans who started our game using that kind of gear.
It was FUN, and that makes ME the best climber!
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cfnubbler
Dec 6, 2007, 9:16 PM
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I think what Larry is alluding to is that there is something inherently satisfying about an artful passive placement.
In the absence of an obvious constriction, or in horizontals, achieving security with passive gear can be trickier than with cams. Some may consider this a reason not to use hexes, others a reason to do so. For me, it depends on the day, the route, my mood. I'm not always looking for the easiet or simplest option. Sometimes elegance and ingenuity are more important.
One other great reason to use hexes involves icy cracks. Cams can be very tenuous in them, while a hex can be absolutely bomber, especially with a little "encouragement" from a hammer. Nothing gives me the warm-and-fuzzies quite like a hex pounded in to an iced up crack...
-Nubbler
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onceahardman
Dec 6, 2007, 9:42 PM
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In reply to: especially with a little "encouragement" from a hammer
Hex with hammer encouragement=piton.
but I don't disagree with you.
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cfnubbler
Dec 6, 2007, 9:48 PM
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: especially with a little "encouragement" from a hammer Hex with hammer encouragement=piton. but I don't disagree with you.
Lol, I'm not in the habit of carrying 2" bongs very often, but I don't disagree with you either!
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joeforte
Dec 6, 2007, 10:06 PM
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caughtinside wrote: Hexes are less versatile. Opinion here. Don't work in parallel sided cracks. You need a constriction.
Have you placed a Hex actively? Maybe when placed as a nut you need a constriction, but hexes do indeed hold in most parallel-sided cracks, as long as you place them actively, and the rock isn't too polished.
Plus, I'll add hexes don't walk or break. No moving parts is a huge plus in my book!
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marc801
Dec 6, 2007, 10:51 PM
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caughtinside wrote: Cams are fast.
In reply to: Hexes are less versatile. Opinion here. Don't work in parallel sided cracks. You need a constriction.
In reply to: Sure, hexes are cheap and light, but they're less versatile.
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paintrain
Dec 6, 2007, 10:56 PM
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There is better technology. They work in parallel cracks, but they take a lot more savy. I want to climb without worrying about my gear.
If it is artistic expression, so be it.
I carry them on alpine climbs because of weight, ice issues, and they are cheap to bail off.
They double as a sling and make a decent bear bell. Ninjas don't carry hexes.
PT
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jpetsch
Dec 6, 2007, 11:00 PM
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Keep a couple on my rack for those rare times when cams just don't fit right... and they make a much more inexpensive leaver piece when you gotta bail.
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gunksgoer
Dec 6, 2007, 11:01 PM
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I hate placing hexes normally, and out of the few climbs ive done with hexes I really only found them to be useful in one situation: the stovelegs on the nose. Rather than carry more 3, 3.5, and 4 camalots we just brought a couple of each (but just one four) to leapfrog and then had a few of the largest hexes to place as pro. So, depending on the specific pitch we'd leapfrog some cams, then place a couple cams and a hex as pro so the runouts werent too big.
Then I think we just left the two big hexes we had fixed below dolt tower (the next party was thankful). We didnt need them higher up and they were in good condition so later parties couldve left them or taken them, we didnt care and we werent littering. I definitely wouldnt have left cams in that situation so it worked out. That being said, hexes are alot easier to place while standing in aiders or french freeing stuff.
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angry
Dec 7, 2007, 12:44 AM
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dingus wrote: Hi Larry I'd chime in with the why-nots but you already know those reasons and last time I volunteered this info I was personally flamed for it. Enjoy your hexes mate! DMT ps. I too feel the call of the nut bro, (to your first point). Sometimes the nut's the nut and sometimes the nut's a nutter.
I agree with the point that Dingus wants to make.
Hexes are stupid. Other than a potential bail piece in the middle of nowhere, I don't see ever using one again.
Should I start a poll among you happy hex proponents as to your hardest trad redpoint? I'm guessing the mean to fall somewhere in the 5.8 range. Maybe an outlier up to 10b.
I bring up grades because I think it's important for the people that read these threads to know that you don't speak for progression, the cutting edge, or the advancement of crack climbing. You speak for a bunch of dinks messing around with obsolete gear.
Flame me. Just know that I free solo cracks harder than you'll probably ever climb.
Bitchez!!
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powair
Dec 7, 2007, 12:58 AM
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Because when i'm climbing on quartzite cams walk like crazy and in some cases if pulled the right way will slide right out. My hexes got alot of use before i owned a full rack of cams, they dont get placed too much anymore which is a shame i had all the colors and sizes dailed, now i would probably end up fumbling around. However they make it onto the rack anytime im climbing quartzite like at the lake in wi. I love the #10!
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larryd
Dec 7, 2007, 1:54 AM
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angry wrote: ... I free solo cracks harder than you'll probably ever climb.
Glad to hear that you're getting up some tough routes, but I think your point (i.e. that it can be fun to climb without cams) has previously been made. . .
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paintrain
Dec 7, 2007, 2:05 AM
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Then why do you use shitty old crampons? 
Lead with the chin.
PT
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onceahardman
Dec 7, 2007, 2:07 AM
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angry:
In reply to: Should I start a poll among you happy hex proponents as to your hardest trad redpoint? I'm guessing the mean to fall somewhere in the 5.8 range. Maybe an outlier up to 10b. I bring up grades because I think it's important for the people that read these threads to know that you don't speak for progression, the cutting edge, or the advancement of crack climbing. You speak for a bunch of dinks messing around with obsolete gear.
A fine false dichotomy. If higher numbers are the most important thing in climbing, well, the hardest crack climb will be bolted. It is EASIER to clip and go.
My highest personal number was old-school trad 11b, on wires, cams, and even a hex. On-sight. (not your "redpoint" poorer style).
It was my highest number. But it was not my hardest climb by any stretch.
If you are really that great (and I hope you are-honest), try a trip to Germany, England, or even New England, and do a 1970's 5.11, using unwired stoppers and hexes for pro, and EB's on your feet. Match the first ascensionist's gear. THEN tell me how you "speak for the advancement of crack climbing." You have advanced nothing. You carry your courage in your rucksack.
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erick
Dec 7, 2007, 2:12 AM
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angry wrote: Should I start a poll among you happy hex proponents as to your hardest trad redpoint? I'm guessing the mean to fall somewhere in the 5.8 range. Maybe an outlier up to 10b.
As i've been reading this post, i've been wondering the same thing. can people actually place an active hex on an 11 or 12? if so, my jaw would drop and i would worship you.
angry wrote: I bring up grades because I think it's important for the people that read these threads to know that you don't speak for progression, the cutting edge, or the advancement of crack climbing.
I think it speaks for the level of personal enjoyment that someone gets out of their climbing though. Some people are bored with popping pro with little or no challenge. Others are bored with routes that have little or no technical challenge for them. It depends which challenge you personally prefer facing and conquering, and neither is more glorious than the other in my opinion.
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donald949
Dec 7, 2007, 2:49 AM
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Why use hexes, cause when I was a port dirtbag college student it was hexes or ridged friends. So I had a set of stoppers and several hexes. A few years later we used my #11 on Sahara Terror at Tahq, 5.7 for those keeping track. Only one pitch needed a large piece, and it worked perfect.
I have a full set of Met QCU's now. But both have their place, both have their advantages. I do like slotting passive pro, as well placing Thank God cam.
I reslung my brother's and my hexes, now I got lots of pro.
:Don
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