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stewbabby
Oct 29, 2002, 4:49 PM
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Im heading to potrero chico in early january. Im looking for some info on routes. I have looked at the dbase and read up a little, but i wanted to get some suggestions from those of you who have been. The main goal of the trip will be to do space boyz. I also wanted some suggestions on easier shorter routes. So if you have some beta to share please do so.
stewart
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burz
Oct 29, 2002, 4:53 PM
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There are a bunch of one pitch routes on the Mini Super Wall which are all really cool! Cervesa, Coca Cola, etc.
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krillen
Oct 29, 2002, 4:59 PM
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Snott Girls on the Moto Wall was fun. 7 pitches of 5.9 and 5.10. Every Odd #'d pitch is a harder or exposure pitch and every even #'d one is a slab pitch. Weird but well worth the trip.
The Moto wall has a lot of good single and two pitch stuff.
The wall with Space Boyz on it has a bunch of multi-pitch routes, but get there EARLY. That wall is always packed and doesn't get sun until later in the day so bring your jacket too!
For harder shorter stuff, Outrage wall had some killer routes with one, two, three pitch routes on it.
Watch for falling rock, there was a lot when we were there. Don't forget your helmet. Also beware of the sound echoing in the valley. It's easy to get confused/distracted by people yelling on other routes.
Good luck, it's a fun place.
[ This Message was edited by: krillen on 2002-10-29 09:00 ]
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crackwhore
Oct 29, 2002, 5:16 PM
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ditto what krillen said about loose rock!!
especially on the low angle route like Space Boyz, Yankee Clipper, etc...
it is possible to do Space Boyz in 6 pitches w/70m. rope and 20 QDs. p1-2,p3-4,p5,p6,p7-8,p9-11. most of the 5.9 pitches have bolts every 15'. the .10+ crux pitch is well bolted.
it is wise (because of rockfall potential) to get off these routes as quickly as possible. simul-rappelling is key. just keep in mind that the lighter person will lose some length unless you jam a knot on his/her side.
also clip your day pack on the 2nd bolt or so on long routes. this will let others know you are up there and keep your stuff from getting stolen (it will not be there when you return if you leave it on the ground).
have fun
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stewbabby
Oct 29, 2002, 5:21 PM
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do either of you guys know the breakdown of spaceboyz. what does each pitch go?
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rocknpowda
Oct 29, 2002, 5:32 PM
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If you're running pitches together it comes on the 4th pitch I believe. Sweeeeeeet Route. Do Motavation on the MOTA wall. Estrellita is good and long and easy. Hell all of it is good. Check out the cathedral or Super Nova to get away from crowds.
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krillen
Oct 29, 2002, 5:46 PM
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Nope sorry, I nevre got on it. Just watched it from the Mota wall.
get a guidebook in the canyon or ask people. Everyone was really nice an helpful.
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evan
Oct 29, 2002, 6:23 PM
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stewbabby,
Space Boyz goes at (5.10+) and the breakdown is as follows:
Pitch One (5.
Pitch Two (5.9)
Pitch Three (5.9)
Pitch Four (5.9)
Pitch Five (5.10a)
Pitch Six (5.10d)
Pitch Seven (5.10b)
Pitch Eight (5.9)
Pitch Nine (5.10a)
Pitch Ten (5.9)
Pitch Eleven (5.9)
Watch out on Pitch 9. You have to traverse around a bit of an arete to find the anchors. I ended up running it out on the wrong side of the arete to the only bolt I could see, skipping the anchors and the first bolt above that as a result. Don't touch the blocks of stone marked with the white "Xs" on Pitch 11; they're loose.
Bring a helmet; "adventure sportclimbing" is not an oxymoron in El Potrero.
Other stuff you might want to try:
"Jungle Mountaineering": four pitch 5.9 - Pitch three has three bolts on it... plenty runout but plenty fun.
"Diablo's Path": five pitch 5.11c - no one ever does the sixth pitch because it's a chossy 5.7 that makes the abseil difficult. Watch your descent, as the route is overhanging and leads to the left. Amazing fourth pitch with a roof and "potato chip" like holds. This route starts left of the Outrage and the Bronco Bowl.
I forget the name, but the two pitch route that goes up the little spire across from the Outrage Wall... it goes at 5.9 / 5.10-. Amazing exposure.
"Snot Girlz" was awesome too. Flip a coin for whoever gets to lead the fifth pitch: it's an amazing and very exposed traverse on excellent holds. You can't beat the summit on "Estrallita." There's a single palm tree at the summit.
There are so many great individual routes there too... Mota, Mini Super and Scrutinzer are great moderate walls, Club Mex, Virgin Wall and Mileski are a bit stiffer.
Have a blast man!
Evan
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dirtbag
Oct 30, 2002, 7:44 AM
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I'm down with the Jungle. For sure check out Snot Girlz and the Mota Wall, and say Hola to Homero for me.
Later
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potreroed
Nov 14, 2002, 5:50 PM
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There is a brand new 7 pitch route you will want to climb called Treasure of the Sierra Madre(5.10d).
We are currently 19 pitches up on Timewave Zero which is going all the way to the summit above the Outrage Wall and will probably weigh in at 23 or 24 pitches. If the weather holds out it might be open by Thanksgiving but surely by January.
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missedyno
Nov 14, 2002, 6:29 PM
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for those of you who don't know who "potreroed" is, he's THE magic ed, who's been down there bolting so many routes all these years. If he's saying there are new good multipitch routes, i'd bet that they're pretty good ones, too.
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texasclimber
Nov 14, 2002, 6:32 PM
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When you guys go to Potrero (or any big wall area), whst is your prefered method of anchoring at the belay. I have been told that the double boline is the way to go, but would attaching 2 runners to your harness with locking biners on the anchors work just as well? Let me know
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potreroed
Nov 26, 2002, 7:18 PM
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The best way to tie in at the belays in the potrero(where all the routes have 2 to 4 bolts per station) is with a daisy chain which is cinched to your harness to one bolt and the climbing rope with a clove hitch to another bolt. On trad routes where you set your own anchors I recommend a cordelette which can be equalized amongst your different anchors.
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texplorer
Nov 26, 2002, 8:23 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
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I was in Potrero last year for about a month. It's best to not go the weeks around new years and christmas unless you like crowds. That said, there are enough routes that you shouldn't have to wait in line for too long for a good route. As for any of the longer routes (spaceboyz, snotgirlz, etc) I suggest you wear a helmet and don't get on them when other parties are on them. There is lots of rockfall there. In fact my partner and I pulled a watermelon sized rock off of spaceboyz last year just pulling our rope on a rappel.
The routes there are soft so you'll probably be leading a full letter or two above what you can do at Smith. When you get there you can purchase a guidebook from Magic Ed (who I believe just posted) with all the routes.
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zee
Jan 15, 2003, 5:12 AM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2001
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Magic Ed is the man. Timewave Zero goes at 23 pitches and is spectacular. Take a look at www.thecrag.com under the mexico section, it has a lot of the climbs listed and we soon have more. There is no beta on thecrag.com, you will have to shell out the $10 for Magic Ed's guidebook. But trust me, I buy one every time I go down there, they are worth it!
Helmet is essential, do not leave home without it. Stay at Homeros if you like to party.
Favorite routes:
Space Boyz 10d 11 pitches
Timewave Zero 12a (11c aid) 23 pitches
El Sendaro Diablo (The devils path) 11+ 6 pitches? I think...
Supernova (Supereasy rest day multipitch!)
Other great multipitches; Snott Girlz, Treasure of the Sierra Mardres.
It is all good...and most of it is awesome!
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