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Re: [adatesman] Pull Test Results: Tradklime's Quicklinks vs Petzl Quicklinks
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jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 10:21 PM
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adatesman wrote:
...the flamefest in The Lab resulting from your abusive behavior...

No matter how many times you state that, it'll never make it true.

Jay


adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 10:27 PM
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jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 10:29 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Pull Test Results: Tradklime's Quicklinks vs Petzl Quicklinks [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Actually, if you want to do something useful, for once, post what you think the "proper" way to calculate the impact force onto semi-static material is. If you actually know how to do it, I, for one, would be enlightened.

Jay

But Jay, I asked _you_ to do that. I already know how to do it and you have a habit of telling other people to go look something up, so thought you'd like being on the receiving end for a change.

And yes, you would be enlightened, because you are completely wrong with what you said about how it works.

? I didn't say I knew how to calculate the impact force onto semi-static material. Quite the opposite, I said I'd be enlightened by you if you knew how to and posted it.

As for me looking it up, I have no reason to do so. If you'd like to share your information with us, fine; if not, that's your prerogative.

In reply to:
-aric.

EDIT- Oh, and about doing something useful... Seems to me that the work that started this thread was actually mine and the only thing you've done is come in here and argue and insult people. Might want to go think on that.

Well, what I've been arguing is that valid statistical methods should be used in designing, analyzing, and interpreting this data. Along the way, I've done a few relevant calculations, which is what statisticians do. If you don't think that that is work, then you try doing them.


jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 10:34 PM
Post #129 of 198 (7259 views)
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Re: [adatesman] Pull Test Results: Tradklime's Quicklinks vs Petzl Quicklinks [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
adatesman wrote:
...the flamefest in The Lab resulting from your abusive behavior...

No matter how many times you state that, it'll never make it true.

Jay

Yup, you never said these things, all quoted earlier in the thread. Must have been the other jt512. There's been more since I compiled the list; maybe I'll add them in later.

In response to a valid assumption I made for doing my test:
jt512 wrote:
So your arbitrary assumption that the quicklinks would not be wrench tightened in use is valid if, luckily, that's how tradklime intended to use them. If not, then, frankly, by failing to clarify an important parameter of the test, you fucked up.

In response to my habit of changing out gear at rap stations:
jt512 wrote:
If you think you can routinely change out every rap anchor you come across you're utterly naive.

In response to my contention that gear from European companies is UIAA and CE certified because those certifications are required for product to be sold as climbing gear in Europe:
jt512 wrote:

I hope you're deluded, and I suspect that you are.

Regarding my response on the validity of tightening links with no available torque specification:
jt512 wrote:
I could explain that both conceptually and mathematically, but I'm convinced that you're too dense or too defensive to understand the explanation.

Again on my habit of changing out rap anchor gear:
jt512 wrote:
No. I missed the part about you being just another Gumby In Pennsylvania (TM) who happens to have a machine.

On my stating that his behavior is inappropriate:
jt512 wrote:
Killfile the only person in the fucking thread with enough knowledge to criticize your methods, and to correctly interpret your test results.

And on my testing in general:
jt512 wrote:
The apparent ability of tests conducted by some random guy in Pennsylvania, playing quality control engineer on the Internet, to mislead the majority of those who read the test results shows that these amateur tests can do more harm than good.

The only one of those that I would consider a flame is the one where I gave you the title Gumby in Pennsylvania (TM). The rest of it -- in context -- was ok, considering the belligerence and frustrating obtuseness you'd been demonstrating.

Jay


adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 10:46 PM
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adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 10:48 PM
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adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 11:04 PM
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jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 11:07 PM
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adatesman wrote:
Crunch, crunch....

jt512 wrote:
? I didn't say I knew how to calculate the impact force onto semi-static material. Quite the opposite, I said I'd be enlightened by you if you knew how to and posted it.

Well then, by what means did you do the calculations to say this to dead_horse_flats?

No calculations are needed to know that the force approaches infinity as the deceleration approaches infinity.

Jay


adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 11:16 PM
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dynosore


Apr 14, 2008, 11:30 PM
Post #135 of 198 (7206 views)
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Thread summary:

I tested 4 links with a hand pump, uncalibrated test frame. They're safe.

jt: statistical fact

others: blah blah no facts, argue argue

jt: more facts

others: ban JT! no facts allowed

rinse and repeat.....

give up jt, you can lead a horse to water....


jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 11:33 PM
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
No calculations are needed to know that the force approaches infinity as the deceleration approaches infinity.

Jay

Well, yeah, if that was what is happening. Unfortunately (for you) you can't model runners that way. Or chain, for that matter. There's always stretch in the equation, which you're not accounting for.

With that clue, do you know what the two missing pieces of info are?

-aric.

I'm not modeling anything. Of course, there's always stretch, a finite deceleration. What's missing is an equation relating the height of a fall and the elasticity of the material to the impact force that is valid when the elasticity is low.

Jay


jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 11:37 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Pull Test Results: Tradklime's Quicklinks vs Petzl Quicklinks [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
The rest of it -- in context -- was ok, considering the belligerence and frustrating obtuseness you'd been demonstrating.

Jay

A change in my behavior which, I must point out, didn't happen until well after your postings, which in context were clearly intended as insults and against the rules here in The Lab.

Nice try at revisionist history though.

-aric.

It seems to me that your behavior changed after I used the word "deluded," which was hardly intended as a flame. You were completely out of control from that moment on.

Jay


adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 11:48 PM
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jt512


Apr 14, 2008, 11:52 PM
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Multiply 6 kN by 225, and compare the result to the number above that tradklime is so enamored with. Then use your Excel spreadsheet to determine the result for a 6- and a 12-inch fall.

Jay

Actually Jay, where on earth did you get this 6kN * 225 nonsense?

Surely you can figure that out for yourself.

Jay


adatesman


Apr 14, 2008, 11:55 PM
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adatesman


Apr 15, 2008, 12:03 AM
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jt512


Apr 15, 2008, 12:12 AM
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adatesman wrote:
Correction- I never said they were safe. I said they were probably safe under their rated load and spent a whole lot of time trying to get through to Jay that the links were in fact rated and testing showed that they met the rating.

Correction- Your sample size was too small to show that the links meet the rating. For a refresher, see my post where, using your results, I calculated the lower 99% tolerance limit for the -3 sigma qunatile to be 1200 lb, which is considerably less than the SWL of 1550 lb. Also review where I said that even this dismal result relies on the optimistic assumption that the failure loads are normal, which seems dubious, given the high variability of the failure loads, which implies poor quality control, or possibly, poor testing.

Jay


jt512


Apr 15, 2008, 12:15 AM
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm not modeling anything. Of course, there's always stretch, a finite deceleration. What's missing is an equation relating the height of a fall and the elasticity of the material to the impact force that is valid when the elasticity is low.

Jay

In an engineering sense you absolutely are modeling the system. As I suggested earlier, you might want to brush up on that sort of thing before making authoritative proclamations regarding things you don't know about.

I was modeling the system to the exact same extent that Newton was modeling the relation between force and acceleration with F = ma.

Jay


jt512


Apr 15, 2008, 12:17 AM
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
adatesman wrote:
Actually Jay, where on earth did you get this 6kN * 225 nonsense?

Surely you can figure that out for yourself.

Jay

Ah, the magic of Statistics, naturally.

And if you say it loud enough and be enough of an ass to people, you can (almost) get away with making just about anything up without anyone calling you on it.

-aric.

You think I made up the conversion factor from kN to lb?

Jay


adatesman


Apr 15, 2008, 12:20 AM
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jt512


Apr 15, 2008, 12:27 AM
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm not modeling anything.
jt512 wrote:
I was modeling the system to the exact same extent that Newton was modeling the relation between force and acceleration with F = ma.

So... You weren't modeling before you were modeling. Gotcha.

If you want to consider F = ma as a model. It's fine with me. Technically, it is indeed a model.

In reply to:
In either case, you're not Newton and still haven't provided the proper equations for modeling this experiment.

How many times do I have to say that you're the guy who supposedly has these equations, not me. The closest I've seen is a derivation from Hooke's Law that I'm told is not valid for semi-static materials like Spectra. So, no, for the third time, I don't have the equations, and since I'm not trying to predict forces from drops onto static materials, I don't need them. Like I also said at least twice, if you'd like to share them, I'd be interested in seeing them. Yes, I tried to search both your posts here, and Ed Hartouni's on supertopo, and couldn't find them. No, I didn't do an exhaustive search, and don't intend to. If you want to share, fine; if not, that's fine, too. But why you keep telling me that I don't have the equations, when that's exactly what I've been saying all along, is a mystery.

Jay


adatesman


Apr 15, 2008, 12:29 AM
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jt512


Apr 15, 2008, 12:30 AM
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jt512 wrote:
adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
I'm not modeling anything.
jt512 wrote:
I was modeling the system to the exact same extent that Newton was modeling the relation between force and acceleration with F = ma.

So... You weren't modeling before you were modeling. Gotcha.

If you want to consider F = ma as a model. It's fine with me. Technically, it is indeed a model.

In reply to:
In either case, you're not Newton and still haven't provided the proper equations for modeling this experiment.

How many times do I have to say that you're the guy who supposedly has these equations, not me. The closest I've seen is a derivation from Hooke's Law that I'm told is not valid for semi-static materials like Spectra. So, no, for the third time, I don't have the equations, and since I'm not trying to predict forces from drops onto static materials, I don't need them. Like I also said at least twice, if you'd like to share them, I'd be interested in seeing them. Yes, I tried to search both your posts here, and Ed Hartouni's on supertopo, and couldn't find them. No, I didn't do an exhaustive search, and don't intend to. If you want to share, fine; if not, that's fine, too. But why you keep telling me that I don't have the equations, when that's exactly what I've been saying all along, is a mystery.

Jay

Einstein, the answer to the question, "Is 6 a large enough sample?" depends on the question.

Jay


jt512


Apr 15, 2008, 12:31 AM
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adatesman wrote:
jt512 wrote:
You think I made up the conversion factor from kN to lb?

Ah, so by multiplying 6kN by 225 lb-f we get 1350kn-lb-f, which is one of the lesser known engineering units for measuring.....???

-a.

Lame


adatesman


Apr 15, 2008, 12:36 AM
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