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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 1:09 AM
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adatesman wrote: jt512 wrote: How many times do I have to say that you're the guy who supposedly has these equations, not me. The closest I've seen is a derivation from Hooke's Law that I'm told is not valid for semi-static materials like Spectra. So, no, for the third time, I don't have the equations, and since I'm not trying to predict forces from drops onto static materials, I don't need them. Apparently as many times as I need to ask you to find them, as you've made incorrect proclamations regarding forces resulting from theoretical drops onto static materials You keep saying that, but haven't shown where I've done so.
In reply to: If you're going to be telling people what the results will be, you damn well better know how to calculate them. Otherwise someone like me will latch on and repeatedly point out the fact that you've got no idea what you're talking about. Well, unfortunately, it appears that you don't know how to calculate them either, which makes your criticizing calculations that I didn't make doubly wrong.
In reply to: Which is something that doesn't exactly lend credence to your claims of expertise in other areas..... There's an ironic statement. If you knew what you were looking at you would know that that is just Hooke's Law. I already stated that I've seen the Hooke's Law approach, and that, if I recalled correctly, that rgold has stated that Hooke's Law is not a good model for low elasticity materials. I just happened to run across that statement by rgold again, and what he actually said was that Hooke's Law isn't good for low elasticity ropes. But if it isn't good for low-elasticity ropes I would also doubt its validity for other low-stretch materials, like Spectra. So, sorry to disappoint you, but you didn't know any equations I didn't already know, and in fact, you were unaware that they are probably not valid for the material we are discussing, Spectra.
In reply to: And I sincerely doubt you actually bothered looking... -aric. And if I made that accusation about you, you'd be off and running to the moderators saying that I'd just called you a liar. Jay
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 1:46 AM
Post #152 of 198
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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 2:11 AM
Post #153 of 198
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adatesman wrote: jt512 wrote: adatesman wrote: Apparently as many times as I need to ask you to find them, as you've made incorrect proclamations regarding forces resulting from theoretical drops onto static materials You keep saying that, but haven't shown where I've done so. Except that I have, and will again: jt512 wrote: If you believe that anything remotely approaching a 50-foot runout is necessary to produce forces that can break even a good quick link, then you're the one most likely to be culled from the herd. A fall of just inches onto static material, as could happen if the rappeller was lowering over the lip "backed up" by a Spectra runner attached to the anchor, could produce such a force. Did you catch it that time? jt512 wrote: Well, unfortunately, it appears that you don't know how to calculate them either, which makes your criticizing calculations that I didn't make doubly wrong. Links have been provided. jt512 wrote: If you knew what you were looking at you would know that that is just Hooke's Law. I already stated that I've seen the Hooke's Law approach, and that, if I recalled correctly, that rgold has stated that Hooke's Law is not a good model for low elasticity materials. If you said it in this thread, I missed it amid all the insults. Found it... jt512 wrote: The closest I've seen is a derivation from Hooke's Law that I'm told is not valid for semi-static materials like Spectra. Ah, that's quite the compelling argument there, Jay. Someone told you something. And no mention of RGold until now. Why the sudden name dropping? jt512 wrote: I just happened to run across that statement by rgold again, and what he actually said was that Hooke's Law isn't good for low elasticity ropes. But if it isn't good for low-elasticity ropes I would also doubt its validity for other low-stretch materials, like Spectra. So, sorry to disappoint you, but you didn't know any equations I didn't already know, and in fact, you were unaware that they are probably not valid for the material we are discussing, Spectra. Again, links? I've not seen RGold's postings, only Ed's and any disagreement on validity between them is something RGold and Ed would need to hash out. Once again it sounds like you're redirecting the conversation to make it appear like you know what you're talking about. Without further evidence that you indeed do, anything you say about it is suspect. Plus you've already demonstrated your being a statistician and not an engineer, so frankly your take on the proper application of Hooke's Law doesn't amount to much. jt512 wrote: And if I made that accusation about you, you'd be off and running to the moderators saying that I'd just called you a liar. No, I'm afraid not. The things I take issue with are the unwarranted personal attacks and insults that are inappropriate in this forum. Given your propensity to talk big and have nothing to back it up, it stands to reason that your 'search' never actually occurred, statistically speaking of course. And seeing as I gave you both who posted it on supertopo and the fact that I, as one of my overwhelming total of 200 posts, included links to it amongst that number says to me you really didn't look much past your nose. Well, its been fun Jay and I'm going to turn in. Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel tomorrow? -aric. EDIT- One more thing before I go... If you like, I'll dig out my Dynamics book tomorrow and post the section explaining impact forces involving a steel cylinder sliding down a steel rod (like a slide hammer) and how the same equations apply. I think we can both agree that a steel rod is at least as static as spectra.... Aric, shut the fuck up already. Jay
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tradklime
Apr 15, 2008, 2:13 AM
Post #154 of 198
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jt512 wrote: tradklime wrote: jt512 wrote: Multiply 6 kN by 225, and compare the result to the number above that tradklime is so enamored with. Don't forget to multiply that number by 2. Don't forget that perfect equalization is not achieved in practice, then don't forget to look up "margin of safety," and then don't forget to check the results for the 6- and 12-inch falls. Jay As is typical when two extremes are put forth, the truth is somewhere in the middle.
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majid_sabet
Apr 15, 2008, 2:49 AM
Post #155 of 198
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This thread has nothing to do with the topic. Its all about scoring the top first seat in the LAB. So far at 223 post, my biner gate myth is the #1 in the house with Aric at 172 post as the second.
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russwalling
Apr 15, 2008, 6:43 AM
Post #156 of 198
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Somebody... anybody.... drop on a fucking knife and end this wank fest.
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 11:01 AM
Post #157 of 198
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cracklover
Apr 15, 2008, 1:22 PM
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adatesman wrote: Have I made my point yet, or do I need to repeat it yet again? -aric. If your point is that your thread can safely be tuned out, as it's going to be nothing but senseless bickering from now until it dies, then yeah, you made it loud and clear. So, one last question - which one of you is Maddog? GO
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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 3:14 PM
Post #159 of 198
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adatesman wrote: jt512 wrote: Aric, shut the fuck up already. Jay Ah, more constructive, civil discourse from Jay. I thought you said pages ago that you were giving up? Or is it about getting the last word with you? And in case you missed it, back on page 5: jt512 wrote: I don't know about the other criticisms I leveled at you. But this last post clearly proves "dense." In fact, hopelessly dense. I give up. And on page 6: adatesman wrote: But what the heck, thread's ruined, Mod's don't care, I've got nothing better to do than needle him. If you'll promise to play nice in the rest of my pull testing threads, I'll drop it. But until then, unless the Mods actually moderate things to keep you in line here in The Lab expect more of the same from me. Vitriol and invective are not appropriate here in the lab. Have I made my point yet, or do I need to repeat it yet again? -aric. Shut the fuck up, Aric.
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 3:35 PM
Post #160 of 198
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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 3:37 PM
Post #161 of 198
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adatesman wrote: Another jt512 wrote: Shut the fuck up, Aric. I guess you didn't understand my point then, huh? Be nice and I won't be a pain in your ass. Got it? -aric. You're not a pain in my ass. You're just another moron who doesn't comprehend his own incompetence. Jay
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 5:05 PM
Post #162 of 198
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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 5:10 PM
Post #163 of 198
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adatesman wrote: So Mods, just where is the line drawn with regards to what is and what is not acceptable in the lab? At this point we have what, 3 or 4 pages of Jay and I railing at each other, complete with insults and foul language on his part? The rules you put down clearly state that this is a highly moderated forum and... j_ung wrote: By posting in the Lab, all users agree to keep their tone respectful to each other and to abide by the RC.com Terms of Service. I'm hoping that you could clear this up, for me and everyone else, before another incident like this occurs again and we can get back to having a reasonable SNR here in The Lab. If you're not going to moderate, then don't say you do. And Jay, haven't we already established that I don't particularly care for you insulting me? While you've been the object of my ire (rightfully so, I might add), my bigger issue is the complete lack of moderation in what's supposed to be a highly moderated forum. Had a Mod stepped in at any time and told both of us to calm down, I absolutely would have. Heck, even had one of the Mods PM'd me to say they looked into it, understood why I was peeved and determined I was overreacting that would have been enough for me. But alas, none of that occurred and tempers continue to flare. So now I'm just curious to see where they draw the line before doing something about it. Heck, we could even escalate things a bit. Several people (including me over in Comments and Suggestions) have called for the thread to be locked but still nothing, so obviously we haven't found the line in the sand yet. So if you're up for continuing this to see how far they'll let things go, I'll play along. I'm very interested in what sort of precedent they're looking to set. Otherwise, I'll offer a truce again- if you'll kindly refrain from being unduly rude to me from here on out, I'll leave you alone. -aric. I don't care whether you "leave me alone" or not. You're just making a fool of yourself. Jay
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 6:29 PM
Post #164 of 198
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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 7:29 PM
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adatesman wrote: You haven't shared a link to RGold's post about why Ed's analysis is flawed WRT spectra though, so if you disagree with these results please feel free to explain. Like I said before, the only information I have is a statement by rgold that the model does not hold for low-stretch ropes. I don't have a link to that statement handy, but I explained yesterday how to find the post. Again: Use the advanced search to search for your posts containing the phrase "Ed Hartouni." That returns two threads. Rich's post is in one of them. Unfortunately, he doesn't elaborate on the limitations of the Hooke's law model. However, he does note, in a paper, that experimental results show that the tension in a dynamic rope is not truly a linear function of displacement (ie, stretch) as per Hooke's Law, and that the greatest departures from linearity occur at very small and very large values of displacement. Since low-stretch ropes have, well, low stretch, perhaps this nonlinearity is just too important to ignore. That's just a guess. I don't have a link to that paper either, but Rich has posted links to it several times, so it shouldn't be too hard to find. It's dated 12/27/06, and is a very worthwhile read. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 15, 2008, 7:30 PM)
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 9:09 PM
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jt512
Apr 15, 2008, 9:42 PM
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adatesman wrote: Jay, It wasn't in the search you suggestion you gave (the two threads that came up searching my postings and "Ed Hartouni" were this one and the one I linked earlier, which wasn't the one you're talking about), but I was able to find lots of interesting by searching for him and "Hooke". It'll make interesting reading, so thanks for pushing me in that direction. In this post he seems to imply (well, flat out states) that static ropes behave similarly to dynamic ropes and both exhibit elastic behavior (meaning Hooke's Law should be a reasonable approximation). A bit earlier he also states that spectra and steel cable behave elastically, so perhaps he changed his mind about it at some point. I've been through the 25 posts he mentions "Hooke" in and a couple where he mentions "spectra", but don't think I've found the one you're talking about yet. I'll keep looking, unless you wouldn't mind just pointing me to it with a link. -aric. EDIT- And yes, that paper did make for interesting reading. Didn't know he had posted something like that, so thanks for pointing me to it. This wasn't the post I was referring to, but in it he mentions a cubic elasticity function in relation to "stiff" ropes. OK, here's the the post I was talking about: [T]he entire impact force model based on Hooke's law works poorly for static ropes." He made this post 9 months after the one you found where he seemed to believe the opposite, so perhaps he had found new data. Jay
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adatesman
Apr 15, 2008, 9:54 PM
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drector
Apr 15, 2008, 10:03 PM
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I'm not sure which is more distasteful, someone being right and just being obnoxious about it or someone being wrong and sticking with their wrong argument and being obnoxious about it. In either case, I don't know much about this stuff so everyone involved is starting to look pretty moronic, right or wrong. I guess that the person who is right never learned that if you can't convince someone of your point based on science and logic then why the hell don't you shut up (all parties involved). Dave
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Truck
Apr 16, 2008, 12:06 AM
Post #170 of 198
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In reply to: Most likely SWL stands for Safe Working Load and 1550 works out to 6.93kN. That seems low, but you have to bear in mind that the SWL is usually well under the breaking strength (generally by several times the SWL). Yep I know all bout that SWL crap. Look at the average 3 1/2"x 1/2" powers/rawl bolt......SWL round 2000 lbs depending on hardness of the concrete(or rock) it is placed in. Strong as god no? Look at the ultimate loads on those things as opposed to the SWL and never mind that some dumb assed ethics dweebs insist on hand drilling the damn things....I doubt ANY engineer would put his ok stamp to a hand drilled rawl bolt, especially if someone's life hung on it. 18+ kn for a rap anchor even if it was made in China with no QC by a 11 year old who works for a dollar a month is still good with me. Fuck it.... if the slings break before the links you are good... if you get scared on tradklimes rap anchors...leave a biner. Aric... keep up the good work. Can't wait for the Patagonia slings to be busted. Truck
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tradklime
Apr 16, 2008, 12:22 AM
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jt512 wrote: tradklime wrote: jt512 wrote: Multiply 6 kN by 225, and compare the result to the number above that tradklime is so enamored with. Don't forget to multiply that number by 2. Don't forget that perfect equalization is not achieved in practice, then don't forget to look up "margin of safety," and then don't forget to check the results for the 6- and 12-inch falls. Jay Since this is possibly productive again... Is there anyway to express statistically the chances that, randomly selected, two of these quicklinks would actually break at the low 3 sigma value you calculated.
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jt512
Apr 16, 2008, 4:01 AM
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tradklime wrote: jt512 wrote: tradklime wrote: jt512 wrote: Multiply 6 kN by 225, and compare the result to the number above that tradklime is so enamored with. Don't forget to multiply that number by 2. Don't forget that perfect equalization is not achieved in practice, then don't forget to look up "margin of safety," and then don't forget to check the results for the 6- and 12-inch falls. Jay Since this is possibly productive again... Is there anyway to express statistically the chances that, randomly selected, two of these quicklinks would actually break at the low 3 sigma value you calculated. The probability of a link being weaker than the mean minus 3 sigma is .00135, so the probability of two of them being weaker than the mean minus 3 sigma is .00135^2, or .00000182, roughly odds of 500,000:1. Edit, Hypothetical question: Say the odds of an anchor failing are 500,000:1. Would these odds be good or not? Would you rap off an anchor that had 2 chances in a million of failing? Probably you would. I know I would. Does that mean that it would be ok to knowingly install anchors that had 2 chances in a million of failing? In my opinion, no. Here's why: Imagine that everybody installed anchors that had 2 chances in a million of failing. How many anchors are there in the world? I have no idea, but let's say that there are 1 million. Then, chances are that 2 of those anchors will fail, and someone will die. Thus the only justification for installing anchors that have 2 chances in a million of failing is that most everybody else is installing better anchors. Kant would not approve. In other words, we have to keep in mind that the probability of failure is 2 chances in a million per anchor. The probability of an unsafe anchor being installed somewhere increases each time such an anchor is installed. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 16, 2008, 5:42 AM)
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philbox
Moderator
Apr 16, 2008, 12:58 PM
Post #173 of 198
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I almost gave up on this threoad and sent it to the recycle bin, then in the last few posts it got back on track. If this generates once again into a wankfest as Russ so succinctly put it then I won't have any hesitation in sending it there. That would be sad as there is some exceptional material contained herein. Not pointing any fingers at anyone in the above comments, just wanting to see folks playing nicely in the sandbox. Yes Aric I am the head mod around here. I answered the criticism of the modding of this thread in the suggestions forum where you started another thread in regards to the topic of the lack of modding in your thread. I don't particularly want to indulge in the run around of justification and recrimination. From where I sit I am seeing things a little differently than you. Let's just move on and all learn from this experience and try to get along. I can't actively ride shotgun over this thread 24/7 but I will be keeping an eye on it and will take the necessary action. Any more of anyone getting personal and it will be time out and threads getting locked or sent to recycle bin. Here endeth the action so far, it is now over to the participants of this hread to decide how the thread continues if at all. Let's all be big about this and raise the standard
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tradklime
Apr 16, 2008, 2:18 PM
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jt512 wrote: In other words, we have to keep in mind that the probability of failure is 2 chances in a million per anchor. The probability of an unsafe anchor being installed somewhere increases each time such an anchor is installed. Jay I agree with you in principle, however in this case, aren't we saying that there is a 2 in one million chance that the anchor will only withstand somewhere between 5.5-11 kN, a value that is still sufficient for rappel. Realistically, the only way to achieve forces in that range is if someone was foolish enough to fall directly on the anchor attached by a spectra sling, with no mitigation from energy absorbed in the body or friction as the person scrapes down the rock, and that assumes they attached themselves to the quicklink directly and not the bolt hanger, or the sling. The real danger in this scenario is the static fall on the anchor, because if the person falls just a little farther, we're talking forces that that could break slings, biners, not to mention backs.
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sed
Apr 16, 2008, 4:53 PM
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JT the only way someone would die in your scenario is if both links failed at the same time(on a 2 bolt anchor. The odds can't be figured the same. I don't know if you play poker but the odds of getting pocket aces are not the same as the odds of two aces showing up somewhere on the table during the game, and that is what you are doing, treating those scenarios the same. I thought stats was your strength? Scott
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